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Description

The area that you can see to the North from the main Cohiba area. Currently being developed. Please respect and avoid accessing forestry rehabilitation work areas nearby, as per the signage. Balanced rock is off limits to climbers in this area and at NO point should anyone decide to climb this sacred stone!

Chipping or hold manufacturing is unwarranted at North Cohiba and will not be tolerated!

Access issues inherited from Western Area

This is part of the Lower Cotter water catchment area. There are a number of rehabilitation projects underway to manage run off and erosion.

Ethic inherited from Pierce's Creek

Pierces Creek is primarily a bouldering area however a number of naturally protected lines have been established over the years. No bolting of routes is accepted. Instead, ascentionists use natural protection on the higher problems, or where that is not available, rely on mats, spotters, and gumption.

Routes

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Grade Route

Nice moves to a dynamic crux, carefully up flake (please inspect on a rope first as there is some suspect rock up high)

Stand start beneath crack then climb up and top out.

FA: Bevan Ashby, 8 Jun 2020

Start matched on sloping ledge then traverse leftwards, climb up crack and top out.

Bevan Ashby

FA: Bevan Ashby, 7 Jul 2020

Sit start from in-cut block then climb up and top out.

FA: Bevan Ashby, 6 Jun 2020

Stand start with lefthand on arete then climb up and top out.

FA: Bevan Ashby, 10 Aug 2020

Another warm up area problem. Left facing layback on the arete 5m right of Bonsai. Sit start with right hand on wobbly jug and left around arete on crimp.

FA: James lister, Aug 2020

Often referred to as ‘The Dawn Wall of Canberra bouldering’ by locals! Starts in the middle of the face, around 3m left of JWB. Stand start using superb right and left side pulls at around head height, this 3m, 1 move masterpiece will make a believer of us all

Sit start on left side of crack then climb up and top out. Righthand block is out.

FA: Bevan Ashby, 13 Jun 2020

Sit start the offwidth splitting JWB & Xitler - In true offwidth grading this could be a little sandbagged! note: if you don’t make noise I’ll buy you a beer

Sit start beneath prow with lefthand on arete then climb up topping out via in-cut jug. Lefthand block is out.

Bevan Ashby

FA: Bevan Ashby, 6 Aug 2020

Sit start beneath prow with lefthand on arete. Climb up to in-cut righthand side pull then trend rightwards to top out via slab. Lefthand block is out.

FA: Bevan Ashby, 2 Aug 2020

Tie a 20+m rope to the base of the tree R of the roof crack (please protect the tree to avoid killing it over time). Throw the rope over the boulder so you can descend down the other side. It may also be possible to down climb Drop Dead Fred and jump.

Sit start with hands in the crack at the back of the cave; where it flares. Starting where the crack constricts 1/4 the way out isn't the correct start. Out and up.

FA: Andrew Bull

FA: Aug 2020

Stand start below the block with lefthand on arete and righthand on edge then climb up and top out.

FA: Bevan Ashby, 13 Aug 2020

Stand start with righthand on sidepull then climb up and top out.

FA: Bevan Ashby, 14 Aug 2020

Sit start then climb up and top out. A high quality problem.

Bevan Ashby

FA: Bevan Ashby, 16 Aug 2020

Stand start with LH on arete and RH on incut sidepull then climb up and top out.

FA: Bevan Ashby, 24 Aug 2020

Sit start then climb up and top out. No stacking pads for SS. NOTE: grade needs to be confirmed by others.

Bevan Ashby

FA: Bevan Ashby, 23 Sep 2020

Hand crack that closes down to tips towards the top. Sit start with wide feet and obvious jams.

FA: James lister, Aug 2020

Sit start beneath prow with righthand on sidepull then climb up and top out.

FA: Bevan Ashby, 25 Jul 2020

Left of VS - finger locks up crack to the crux slab top out

Cracked Voudee Boulder - Dynamic move to an obvious rail - mantel then carefully up slab.

Stand start then climb up and top out.

Slab on the Cracked Voudee Boulder - levitate upwards crux mid height

One of the best highball finger cracks at Pierces - sit start up vertical finger crack! -35.3640739, 148.9112942

Nice moves up crack & seam to a committing mantel - give space for the king of all rock spiders

Traverse crack on Arachnotopia

Up crack and seam left of Opal Slab

Opal Boulder - up face and slab top out, 12 hard slab moves with a beautiful crux footer which is truly outrageous

Crack just right of Opal Slab. Sit start crack, with perfect hand jams

Stand start then climb up and top out.

FA: Bevan Ashby, 5 Jul 2020

Sit start from flake then climb up trending leftwards and top out.

FA: Bevan Ashby, 9 Jul 2020

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