Routes as trad in The Lighthouse

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Showing all 79 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Superliner Area
19 Superliner

The first arête right of the lighthouse fence. Excellent protection. Find the 2 carrot bolts at the top and abseil down the arete to Ring bolt belay. Climb up passing 10 Ring bolts , a couple of cams and a thread (120cm sling handy).

There is a lower start only 5m lower for this bring x5 carrots

FA: 2003

Mixed trad 35m, 7
15 Two Ounces
Trad 30m
19 Anchovy Express

Up groove passing carrots.

Nice wall take lots of small cams and wires.

Double carrot belay

Start: On halfway ledge as for Two Ounces

FA: G. James & P. Bridges, 1998

Mixed trad 30m, 7
20 Guiding Light

Many cams!

Up white corner grove to block, step right. Continue crack to the right end of a big roof. Step right and up to break, up then left to big orange headwall.

Start: Same as for banksia and coleridge.

FA: Ian Brown & Tom Williams, 1988

Trad 40m
16 Coleridge

Start: Start on same ledge.

FA: Peter Blunt & Ian Brown, 1988

Trad 40m
17 Sunset Strip

The broken twin cracks 2m left of Hollywood Boulevard. Rap down the corner to the grassy ledge. Step left and up the cracks with good protection.

FA: Ivan Valenta / Robert Dun

Trad 20m
16 Hollywood Boulevard

There is a west facing orange wall about 10m right of Coleridge. Hollywood Boulevard is the corner crack at the left side of this wall. Rap down the corner to the grassy ledge. Up the corner cracks.

FA: 2002

Trad 20m
20 Battle Cruiser

A nice clean crack with excellent easy to place protection. The next corner crack right of Hollywood Boulevard. Rap down the corner to the grassy ledge (as per Hollywood Boulevard). Walk around the corner (stay on the abseil rope) and set up a belay. Up the corner crack.

FA: Robert Dun / Ivan Valenta

Trad 15m
18 whale watching cruise

The wide crack just right of battle cruiser. A #5 or #6 wouldn't be missed for the top half

FA: Mark Feeney, 10 Jul 2020

Trad 14m
21 Destroyer

Atmospheric. The next crack left of Voyager. Rap down Voyager and set up a belay on the step about 1m below the main ledge, use the rap rope to backup the belay. Traverse left along the break and up the crack. Good protection once you are in the crack.

FA: 2003

Trad 15m
16 Voyager

On February 10th 1964 the navy destroyer Voyager was sunk off Jervis Bay when it collided with the aircraft carrier Melbourne. 82 men died in the incident. Left of Centurion is a section of vertical plates jutting out. After this section there is a small embayment. Left of the embayment there are a couple of cracks in the cliff top. The Right crack is Voyager and the Left crack is Destroyer. Find the 2 carrot bolts at the top and Abseil down the line to a good ledge in an embayment. Up the left corner crack.

FA: Robert Dun / James Hardy

Trad 15m
19 James Hardy 1000

Put up the weekend of the Bathurst car races, and named accordingly to annoy James. Abseil down and set up a belay in Voyager. Step right and head up the right corner crack. The crack is fused at the top.

FA: 2002

Trad 15m
Centurion Area
18 Typhoon

Left of Centurion is a section of vertical plates jutting out. After this section there is a small embayment. Typhoon is the crack in the right corner of the embayment. Abseil down the middle of the embayment until you get to a small ledge with a 2 carrot bolt belay. The belay is at the base of a seam in the slabby wall. Start up the slabby wall past 2 carrot bolts trending right. Then up the right corner crack.

FA: Ivan Valenta & Robert Dun, 2003

Trad 15m
21 Rapt in Rubber

Exposed - Traverse left near arete past bolt, up past more.

Start: Same belay as 'Centurion'

FA: Greg James & Steve Burns, 2000

Mixed trad 15m, 3
16 Centurion

Left hand edge of ledge, up corner. Don't get drawn into the overhang. Instead, stay on the left face to place pro before the crux move.

Start: Same start as RIR

FA: Ian Brown & Bob McMillan, 1989

Trad 10m
25 Plunging Testicles

Named after the huge Testicle shaped boulder that Greg and Steve trundled off the ledge on the first ascent.

Up wall past bolts and small cam placements on sharp holds.

Start: 'Centurion' ledge

FA: Greg James, Steve Burns & Escaba, 2000

Mixed trad 10m, 2
15 Impact Zone

Up the corner crack.

Same belay as WCF.

Trad 10m
15 Women and Children First

Start on the Centurian Ledge as per Impact Zone. Step right onto a horizontal crack over the awesome exposure above the rocks below. One solid move then up the easy ramp to a two carrot belay at the top.

FA: Ian Brown & Bob McMillan, 1989

Trad 12m
24 Delusions of Grandeur

Overhung and very very exposed - even for Point Perp standards. This is a mixed route - only 3 bolts in the lower half - the rest is cams in horizontals - try not to pump off placing them! Rap in down the finish corner of Women and Children first - clipping into gear/bolts on the way down to stay connected to the rock to ridiculous hanging belay on lip of roof. Climb up and right through short chossy section to rooflet, over this (reachy) then straight up face and steepness above. Cams from finger to wide fist size required.

FA: Neil Monteith, May 2013

Mixed trad 20m, 3
22 Titan I Am

The Point's first route bolted with titanium. Rap from carrots to reach semi-hanging belay with foot ledge (double rings). Long, pumpy and well-protected climbing with 10 bolts and one or two obvious medium cam placements, or run it out (safe).

FA: Lee Cujes & Sam Cujes, 1 Apr 2013

Mixed trad 25m, 10
17 Oarsome

Traverse left off ledge to hanging crack, great gear.

Trad 20m
21 Australia's Hardest Climb

Great steep climbing with some tough to read moves. Rap in to find two hard-to-see carrots placed directly into a horizontal ledge. Slabby start on polished rock (cams in horizontals) to high BR when the rock steepens. Continue up overhung face above past FH and a a couple more BRs.

Mixed trad 15m, 4
20 Whale order bride

Rap to same belay carrots as AHC.

Start same as AHC with gear, then rings on headwall.

FA: Will Watkins & Nick le Frenchie, 26 Oct 2012

Mixed trad 15m, 4
18 Wolf

Steep wall 2m left of arete with not a lot of pro.

Start: Left side of arete, exposed stance.

FA: Roy Fryer, Owen McMahon & Cerin McMillan., 2000

Trad 15m
Red Riding Hood Area
17 Little Red Riding Hood Direct

A much longer and better version of the original - starting from double bolt belay on small ledge on right side of arete, below the Levee Breaks terrace. Left and up quartz infused face (lots of FHs) to eventually join into original route at 15m at crack section (medium cams). Finish up original arete past bolt and cams.

FA: Rick Phillips, 2013

Mixed trad 30m, 8
17 Little Red Riding Hood

Traverse out left and up, aiming for the nose. Up this to the top. There are a few bolt hangers past the nose to get you past the fairly blank section on the arete. Double carrot belay on top.

Start: Rap into the embankment just to the right of the lowest point in the lighthouse fence.

FA: Steve Burns, Greg James & Bede Harrington, 2000

Mixed trad 25m, 1
20 Greg's Crack

The major crack line between When the Levee Breaks and Red Riding Hood. Start as for Red Riding Hood. Follow the hairline crack up the wall until the ledge. Climb the short pedestal and move right into the crack. Up the crack passing two bolts (on the right of the crack).

FA: Greg James & Adrian Kladnig

Mixed trad 20m, 2
19 Czech Mate
Trad 20m
19 When the Levee Breaks

Start just right of LRRH. Up the line with four FHs and pockets for cams or just run it out.

FA: Greg James, 2000

Mixed trad 20m, 4
15 Spiders And Space Cadets

The corner between Proudly Penguin and When the Levee Breaks. Bridge up the corner and chimney with good protection. Take a sling for the big thread near the top.

FA: Ivan Valenta / Jane Montgomery

Trad 20m
21 R Proudly Penguin

Start: 2m right of corner. Up wall to flake then bolt to top. Watch the runouts!

FA: Neil Plant & Robyn Cleland, 2000

Mixed trad 20m, 1
21 Destructive Wombats

Start: 4m right of corner. Straight up the wall past many cam placements and a BOMBER sling at half height!

Mixed trad 20m, 2
21 Struggle Streets

Thin flake with 3 FHs right of Destructive Wombats.

Trad 25m
18 Trade Wind

The broken crack line left of Fat Man's Misery and R of Destructive Wombats. Rap down to the big ledge. Climb the right curving flake to a ledge. Either belay on the ledge or continue up the crack in one pitch.

FA: Ivan Valenta & Robert Dun

Trad 15m
16 Fat Man's Misery

The wide crack / chimney left of the Krill a Whale buttress. Rap down to the big ledge. Climb the right curving flake to a ledge. Either belay on the ledge or continue up the crack in one pitch.

FA: Robert Dun / Ivan Valenta

Trad 15m
18 Krill-A-Whale

Start down to the left of the arete.

Mixed trad 30m, 2
15 The Poseidon Adventure

The wide crack / chimney right of the Krill-a-Whale buttress. Rap down the line to a 2 carrot bolt belay at a small ledge halfway down the left wall. Up the line passing two carrot bolts on the wide part at the top.

FA: Ivan Valenta & Robert Dun

Trad 15m
22 The Brown Streak

FA: Greg James

21 Schrapnel In My Backyard

Line of ringbolts left of the Mister Bean arete. Abseil down to small ledge with 2 glue-in carrot bolts as belay. Up past 4 rings and a mid-sized cam.

FA: Lee Cujes, Erik Smits & Chris Trengove, 2007

Mixed trad 15m, 4
Liquid Insanity Area
23 Fuzzy Logic

Climb off the block staying out of the corner passing a few FHs and many medium cams. Is slightly run out at the top, but is easier and you can put in some big cams if you really want.

Start: Rap in to an exposed triangular block with 2 FH for belay.

FA: Greg James, 1992

Trad 25m
17 Neptune

Appears to have been rebolted. Wide corner crack with carrots as well as some gear & thread opportunities.

FA: Werner Steyer / Robert Dun / Kate Wright, 2004

Mixed trad 15m, 4
24 Liquid Insanity Direct Finish

Start: As for 'Liquid Insanity' but dont traverse back right, continue up arete.

FA: Greg James & Adrian Kladnig, 1992

Mixed trad 35m, 5
23 Liquid Insanity

Up corner, then left passing bolts to arete, up arete with cams. Near top, traverse back right and up final bolt line.

Start: Start as for 'Liquid Daze'

FA: Greg James & Adrian Kladnig, 1992

Mixed trad 35m, 4
23 Liquid Daze

Up small corner (bolt) to wall, then tending right slightly past more bolts.

Named in honour of the second who had a hangover and had recently been listening to a Philip Glass song "Liquid Days"

FA: Greg James & Adrian Kladnig, 1992

Mixed trad 30m, 4
19 Melody Lines
Trad 15m
15 Test

FA: Phil Georgeff, 1998

Trad 15m
16 Whistle
Trad 15m
16 Grey

FA: Phil Georgeff, 1988

Trad 15m
Rex Hunt's Area
22 Northern Exposure

Start: 2m right of RHLC. Straight up the wall - small to medium cams help in the middle.

FA: Tony Burnell, 1992

Mixed trad 30m, 6
20 Bad Luck Streak

Start: At the thin crack. Climb the thin crack until it ends at half height, step left to continue crack and up into the jams to top.

FA: Joe Lynch Mike Law-Smith Phil Georgeff, 1988

Trad 30m
18 Moving Targets
Trad 30m
26 Eviction Order

Low in the grade. Great climbing past 3 fixed brackets to a hard techy finnish on edges and monos.

Mixed trad 15m, 3
22 Sticky Date Pudding
Trad 15m
19 Froffwidth
Trad 15m
19 Real Men Have Man Boobs

FFA: R Sonnerdale

Trad 15m
24 American Bikini Jam
Trad 12m
19 Natural Selection
Trad 20m
Peristalsis Area
18 Rubble Without a Cause

This is the corner below where the lighthouse enclosure fence meets the cliff top.

Trad 40m
25 Sex, Bolts and Ice Cream
Trad 40m
26 Bung Eye

The bolts left of Bondage and Discipline.

FA: Zac Vertrees, 2006

Mixed trad 20m, 1
22 Bondage and Discipline

FA: Greg James & Mark Davies

Mixed trad 40m, 3
16 Peristalsis
Trad 40m
22 Mind the Gap

Great position and cool climbing.

Mixed trad 40m, 3
25 The Whip

Start as for 'Mind the Gap'. After placing cam in big pocket, traverse right past one ring bolt to the arete (cams in pocket and in flakes- make sure you have a #2 C3 to protect final crux). Enjoy the view then punch up the arete. Great exposure!

FA: George Broadfoot, 22 Apr 2013

Mixed trad 25m, 3
Lighthouse Lower Whalesong Buttress
17 Lithgow Girls
Trad 45m
19 Whalesong
Trad 50m
16 Staircase to Dracophyllum
Trad 53m
Lighthouse Lower Mariner Buttress
18 Ancient Mariner
Trad 45m
18 Albatross
Trad 50m
20 Silent Sea
Trad 50m
18 Upon a Painted Ocean
Trad 55m
17 Gaia
Trad 55m
Lighthouse Lower Atmosfear Wall
16 Storm-blast

Juggy right facing open-book corner bordering the left side of the Atmosfear Wall. This route seeps for much of the year - with drainage coming down from the pools below the lighthouse

Trad 45m
22 Mixmaster

This ones for you Damo! A long steep pitch of mixed climbing following a weakness and corner system up high. Bring a full rack (doubles of hand to fist size cams and some wires). The first 15m is all trad then once the angle steepens it's spaced ringbolts and trad to the top. Belay off FH and ringbolt with long slings.

FA: Neil Monteith & Matt Brooks, 9 Jun 2013

Mixed trad 55m, 8
Lighthouse Lower Bayside Lower East
15 The Comeback Trail
Trad 50m
20 Greenpeace
Trad 50m
18 Return of the Whale
Trad 50m
16 Hooray and Up She Rises
Trad 80m
18 She Sells Sea Shells

A fun multipitch up excellent orange marbled rock. The easiest sport route on the lower cliffs, and conveniently right below the left end of Windjammer Wall. As with any route on the lower cliffs, good conditions are key to enjoyment. Keep an eye out for a breezy, low humidity day and the rock will be glorious. In other conditions it can be damp and slippery! As of June 2013 the final pitch has been partially de-bolted, so you will need to use trad gear on this pitch or finish up one of the plethora of classics on Windjammer Wall. First, get to the base of Windjammer Wall anyway you can (rapping down Man Overboard is probably the best). Walk to the far left end of the crag to where the vegetated ledge ends and a very narrow rock ledge begins (5m left of the base of the route Midnight Lightning and below the route Beside the Seaside). Edge cautiously along ledge for a few metres to find double rap rings below the route Beside the Seaside (p.66 in Climb Point Perp print guide). Rap 45m from these bolts to medium sized rock ledge about 10m above the ocean. There is a single RB to belay from. You will need two 50m ropes. You CANNOT use the anchors at the end of pitch 1 as a midway rap point as they are too diagonal and overhung to reach. The start of this route is actually shared with the start of the 2nd pitch of the old climb Hooray and Up She Rises (p.128 of the Climb Point Perp print guide.)

  1. 20m (18) From the single RB belay follow the bolts up and slightly right through a couple of bulges and lots of slopers to small ledge. Double RB belay.

  2. 25m (17) Left trending RBs to 'slot' and small bush. Climb past this annoying impasse anyway you can, then left and up to ledge left of Midnight Lightning and double RB belay.

  3. 30m (15) Finish up 'Beside the Seaside'. You will need some trad. From above the anchors climb tricky fused corner for a few metres then romp up a series of grey walls and ledges past 2 rings to top of cliff. This was/is a partial retrobolt of Beside the Seaside. Alternatively walk along the Windjammer Wall ledge and exit via Man Overboard or Grey Mist.

FFA: Rick Phillips, 2013

Mixed trad 75m, 3, 10

Showing all 79 routes.

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