Routes as trad in Seaside

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Showing all 85 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Windjammer Wall
25 Mr Logistics

Awesome arete. Short, steep and sustained unlike many a point perp route.

Start next to 'Midnight Lightning' on left hand end of 'Ocean Boulevard'. Rap off rings at top of arete to small foot ledge. Use first ring and gear as belay. Take lots of 0.75 and 1 cams.

FA: Duncan Hunter, 2008

Mixed trad 15m, 4
19 Aloha

Unpleasant. Start at extreme L end of Ocean Boulevard. Belay off some blocks at the bottom of the obvious buttress. L around the nose, then up, then L to longish ledge. Up middle of wall past flakes. Up corner, then huge flake on L wall. Finish up the crack on the L to avoid the top part of the flake (loose).

FFA: Peter Blunt & Ian Brown, 1986

Trad 30m
15/16 Beside the Seaside

First a trad route, never done. Then retrobolted and renamed. All but 2 bolts have been chopped by persons unknown in March 2013. Full trad rack now required! Starts at double ringbolt belay at the furthest you can safely walk left when on the Windjammer ledge.

FA: Peter Blunt & Ian Brown, 1985

Mixed trad 40m, 2
21 Midnight Lightning

Great wall route all gear bar one U-bolt. Start up the obvious flake in the lower wall a few metres left of Hot To Trot's line of rings. Comes complete with excellent arete crack finish.

FA: John Fantini & James Hoy, 1990

Mixed trad 30m, 1
18 Montezuma

The corner. Interesting terrain, fairly sustained with good rock. Take lots of gear from hands upwards, hexes useful. Awkward gear belay in crack with large cams (Camalots #3-5).

FA: Ian Brown & Peter Blunt, 1985

Trad 30m
22 Turning Of The Tide

The left arete of Windjammer Wall. Incredible climbing up one the best aretes at Point Perp. Climb the arête and the face just to the right past lots of carrot bolts, supplemented by occasional medium sized cams. This was originally climbed onsight with no bolts (!) and was later "accidentally" retrobolted.

FA: Tony Barton, Joe Lynch, John Churchill & Mike Peck, 1988

Mixed trad 30m, 8
24 Barracouta

Start just right of Turning of the Tide. Up past short corner and numerous breaks (natural gear) to headwall with three carrot bolts and a fixed hanger. Seriously tricky up high. #3 and #4 cams are handy right at the start.

FFA: Andrew Bull & Tony Barton, 1990

Mixed trad 30m, 4
18 Blazing Jugs
  1. Start at base of TOTT and climb up 10m to a semi hanging belay, poor pro. 2) Traverse 30 m right to a RHF corner. 3) Traverse 30 m right and belay from J ledge/corner. 4) Reposition belay to arete 5m right. 5) Traverse trickely 25 m right, belay at MO. 6) traverse 10 m to arete. 7) Traverse 15m to the SAD V-groove. 8) 10 m finish up any route on the face (easiest goes at 18).

FFA: Peter Blunt & Ian Brown, 1985

Trad 130m, 8
22 R Memorable Moves

Daunting and inspiring trad masterpiece. The first thin weakness through the upper headwall on the left side of the wall. Easily up left facing flake to start, then up juggy wall (not well protected) to final searing seam. Full trad rack from #5 cam to tiny wires. (Breaking a hold between about 5m and about 10m will probably result in hitting the deck, many people start up Icebird instead to skip the unprotected choss section. Good gear is available on the top half of the route). Starts 2m left of 'Icebird'.

FFA: John Fantini & Phil Georgeff, 1988

Trad 30m
19 Icebird

The wide crack near the left side of the wall. A great line and a great climb. Up the jugs then the awkward wide crack.

FA: Peter Blunt & Ian Brown, 1984

Trad 30m
26 Susie now Settled

The face between 'Icebird' & 'Dirty Dancing' Moderate climbing about grade 21 till big break 6m from top. Put in lots of bomber gear and punch to top!

FA: Tim Booth, Jun 2015

Trad 25m
24 Dirty Dancing

Crack just right of Icebird, which gets thinner and harder as you get higher and pumpder. This was John's pick of the area.

FFA: John Fantini & Phil Georgeff, 1988

Trad 30m
21 Not All There

The line of carrots left of Windjammer that leads to 2 bolt lower off. Take many cams and a handful of brackets (it's mostly trad). The direct finish is 26 and is called Halfway House Extension (for some reason). The lower-off will twist the s#it out of your rope - would be nice to see it upgraded.

Trad 25m
26 Seamstress

Variant finish to Windjammer. Start up Windjammer, then avoid the wide crack by stepping left into the white marble seam. Very challenging trad climb both the climbing and protection.

FFA: Robert Dun & Matt Scholes (preplaced gear), 2009

Trad 30m
19 Windjammer

The right one of a trio of cracks. Ensure you place lots of good gear in the first half as some of the rock is a bit suspect.

FA: Ian Brown & Peter Blunt, 1984

FFA: Ian Brown & Bob McMillan, 1988

Trad 30m
26 The Sublime and the Ridiculous

Follows the thin, right-sloping crack on the headwall R of Windjammer. Up suspect rock to the base of the crack. Follow the bolts below the slanting crack to the top. This route has been heavily retrobolted by Blowing in the Wind! (see the notes for the extension to that route)

FFA: Ant Phren, 1989

Mixed trad 30m, 3
26 Feeding Frenzy

The R-leaning shallow flake in the headwall that is L of the main overlap (Liquid Lunch). Start just to the R of the centre of Windjammer Wall beneath the flake. Climb the easy lower part of the wall (bolt) to the flake, move L near the top to finish.

FFA: Giles Bradbury, 1989

Mixed trad 30m, 3
26 Liquid Lunch

The R-ward leaning major diagonal flake on the R side of Windjammer Wall. Start a coupe of metres R of Feeding Frenzy, about 10m below a small rooflet. Up, tending R to a U-bolt at beginning of flake, then follow the flake and crack diagonally R to the top.

FFA: Giles Bradbury

Mixed trad 30m, 1
23 Last Man Standing

The second line of rings left of Jaws' major corner. Five rings and several finger/hand sized cams to lower off anchors below the top of the cliff where the line joins Liquid Lunch. Connecting it into the top is a possibility at around grade 26 and has been attempted by Neil & others.

FA: Neil Monteith, 30 Mar 2013

Mixed trad 25m, 5
22 Hot Cross Buns

Sustained and well protected wall climbing with characteristic Point Perp buckets and horizontals. Starts 2m left of 'SS Minow' below thin crack. Face to start, then up juggy crack to unlikely wall and right leading flake. When the holds run out at 20m traverse right to join 'SS Minow' at its last BR and finish for that route. Bring a full rack with doubles in the finger/hand sizes plus a #4 camalot to protect the first 5m.

FFA: Neil Monteith

Mixed trad 20m, 1
22 SS Minow

Starts 5m left of the Jaws corner below the line of FHs. Up wall past three FHs then trad goodness until final climatic flake (BR). Single set of cams protects the rest. Finishes at left set of lower-offs about 4m short of the top of the wall. The single BR above is an open project.

FFA: Greg James, 2001

Mixed trad 25m, 4
22 Hate minnows

A link up for pikers. Do hate mail to last bolt, but instead head left to anchors on Ss Minnow, clipping bolt on way. Take a bolt plate.

Trad 20m
24 Hate Mail

Varied and sustained wall climbing up beautiful polished rock with the typical cruxy 'Windjammer' finish. Starts 1m left of 'Tenere' behind small tree and 2m right of 'SS Minow'. Five U-bolts and four or five good cam slots (fingers to hand size). Save a #2 Camalot for pocket in the finish moves. Lower-off anchor is 3m below the top of the cliff at large finish pocket.

FFA: Neil Monteith

Mixed trad 25m, 5
20 Tenere

A true line. Start in the corner as for Jaws. At the ledge climb the fiddly seam on the main (L) wall. Continue up the stunning crack to top. A #3 cam is usefull to protect last moves. Sling small tree and boulder for belay.

FA: Peter Blunt & Ian Brown, 1985

Trad 28m
19 Jaws

The obvious corner in the middle of the wall.

FFA: Peter Blunt & Ian Brown, 1984

Trad 32m
22 No Crack No Sin

Climb the face between 'Jaws' and 'Some Weird Sin'. Balance and exposed move low with tricky top section.

FA: Tim Booth, Jan 2015

Trad 25m
19 Jaws direct

Up slab right of corner, minimal gear. You can stay on slab until about 5m below top when step left to finish up jaws

FA: Ian brown

Trad 30m
23 Some Weird Sin

Start on the right-hand side of the middle arete of 'Windjammer Wall' - just right of Jaws. Up the wall and then arete passing bolts and cams. Move around to the R-side of the arete after clipping final bolt. Take lots of brackets.

FFA: Mike Moore & Greg James, 1998

Mixed trad 30m, 7
18 Red Shift

Traverse at half height from the arete of Some Weird Sin to the corner of Man Overboard.

Start: Up the initial small corner of Hungry Eyes, or continue on from Blazing Jugs.

Trad 35m
23 Hungry Eyes

Start on top of the block, at the small L-facing corner just right of Some Weird Sin. Up enjoyable jugs, passing a couple of small overlaps to base of crack. Up thin crack then into hand crack to finish.

FFA: John Fantini & Phil Georgeff, 1988

Trad 30m
27 Permissability

The overlap right of Hungry Eyes. Awesome moves on great rock. Sustained through the top.

FFA: Duncan Hunter, 2009

Mixed trad 30m, 2
24 Sail the Nullabor

Ascends the centre of this piece of wall to finish either up the thin crack (better pro, but harder) or the flake to its L. Another trad masterpiece.

FFA: John Fantini & Phil Georgeff, 1988

Trad 30m
24 Walk the Plank

This is awesome. Start below the fine crack with a bolt, 4m left of corner. Up the wall past breaks and three bolts. At third bolt head right up the double edged flake. Don't place gear behind the suss flakes if you enjoy life and are looking forward to more of it!

FA: Mark Wilson & Richard Watts, 1988

Mixed trad 30m, 3
16 Man Overboard

Start in the corner, just right of the typical abseil line. Better than it looks with varied climbing and good jamming at the top on clean rock.

FA: Peter Blunt & Ian Brown, 1984

Trad 26m
19 Night Shift

Traverse at half height from the Man Overboard corner to the arete, about half way up Full Sail.

FA: Ian Brown & Peter Blunt

Trad 32m
17 Grey Mist

Most will agree, this climb is the best easy/moderate trad route at the Point and for miles around. Gear placement is amply available and the climbing consistent at the grade. Start in the middle of the dark south-facing wall to the right of the Man Overboard corner. Follow the sinuous crack as it slowly widens to hand size.

FA: Ian Brown & Peter Blunt, 1984

Trad 30m
19 Full Sail

Excellent climbing, better than it looks.

Start: The crack just L of the arete, R of Grey Mist.

  1. 23m (19) Follow the crack until it stops then up L side of arete until able to move R to scoop on nose. Up scoop to good ledge on R.

  2. 17m (17) R along ledge and up the zig zag crack with interest.

FA: Ian Brown & Peter Blunt, 1984

Trad 40m, 2
22 Rock the Clock

The crack and then bolted arete to the top - the direct finish to 'Full Sail'.

Start: As for 'Full Sail', at the crack just left of the arete and to the right of 'Grey Mist'.

FA: John Fantini & Keith Bell, 1989

Mixed trad 30m, 3
20 Saving Grace

Start at a block below the middle of the wall on the right of the arete.

  1. 25m (20) Up to the ledge at 4m, then left to the loose vibrating pedestal. Step right to the thin seam/crack then up to the belay ledge as for 'Full Sail'.

  2. 17m (17) As for 'Full Sail'.

FA: Ian Brown & Peter Blunt, 1988

Trad 35m, 2
18 Gear Shift

Traverse right from the belay of 'Night Shift' (i.e. halfway up 'Full Sail') to 'Search and Destroy'. Up this to finish.

FFA: Ian Brown & Bob McMillan, 1988

Trad 40m
25 Don't Rock the Block

Up past ring bolts then bypass the dodgy block on the left to gain the 'Full Sail' ledge. Finish as for 'Full Sail'.

Start: In the middle of the wall just right of 'Saving Grace'.

FA: Glenn Jones, Mike Peck & Bob McMillan

Trad 30m
18 Search and Destroy

The left facing corner at the right hand end of the wall.

  1. 20m Up the corner then groove to a nice ledge.

  2. 10m Originally up the wide corner at the back of the ledge but now most people prefer to climb the cracks just right of the corner.

FA: Ian Brown & Peter Blunt, 1984

Trad 30m
The Poop Deck
16 Bowel Blockage

Sandy and poorly protected.

Trad 20m
22 La Lambada

The fine, red diagonal crack with black streaks near the middle of the wall.

FFA: John Fantini & D. Morgan, 1989

Trad 18m
26 Slutcats

Line of 3 bolts thru scoops and pockets to a powerful Nowra like crux. Great rock and wicked moves. Small cam in the top slot protects the last moves.

FA: Lucky Chance, 2009

Mixed trad 15m, 3
Perverts on the Poop Deck

Start below the dark flaring crack just right of Slutcats. Pass 3 carrot bolts to some cam placements and then one more carrot.

FA: Will watkins

Mixed tradProject 22m, 4
24 Military Madness

Now has stainless steel carrot bolts to replace the old mank. Fun moves of pretty good rock. Cut slightly right to the last carrot and then up.

FFA: Ant Phren, 1990

Mixed trad 20m, 4
25 One Less Wallaby

Start at the thin crack (small wires) and then head directly up some great rock and moves past 3 more stainless carrots. Tricky first moves leads to sustained climbing on good holds. Holds thin out towards the top so keep moving.

FA: Will Watkins, 10 Mar 2013

Mixed trad 20m, 3
26 Sand Castles

Line of 3 U-bolts up slightly sandy rock. Thread runner can be used between bolts 1 and 2.

FA: Lucky Chance, 2009

Mixed trad 15m, 3
18 Capella Crax

The parallel cracks at the R end of the Poop Deck. Begin in the one on the R. Strenuously, then carefully until hard, sustained jamming is reached. Pike L into the next sandy horror, then more easily to top.

Trad 20m
Heavy Weather - Bon Voyage
15 Escape Route

Bad rock.

Trad 35m
26 Terra Nullius

Belay in the corner with a few medium cams. Up the wall to a big move, reachy. About 23 to the crux, then it gets hard for the last few moves. Take a bolt bracket.

FFA: Greg James & Mike Moore, 2000

Mixed trad 30m, 7
19 Toil and Blood

Bad rock.

Trad 37m
19 Heavy Weather

Bad rock.

Trad 40m
16 Burning Bridges

Bad rock.

Trad 44m
17 Saladin

Bad rock.

Trad 30m
17 Grit Your Teeth

Crumbly in upper half

Trad 30m
19 Star Trekkin

Really sandy rock

Trad 30m
19 Bon Voyage
Trad 160m
22 The Cryptic Message
Trad 30m
16 Offal
Trad 20m
18 My Beautifull Laundrette

The first 2/3 of this is well protected finger crack on good rock. The rest is poorly protected and poor rock.

Trad 20m
20 Cold Power

Bad rock and poorly protected start (crux).

Trad 25m
Seaside Lower
15 Southerly Buster
Trad 75m
15 Itchycoo Park
Trad 50m
15 Continental Drift
Trad 60m
15 Scenic Cruise
Trad 54m
16 Wipeout
Trad 50m
15 Dreams and Visions
Trad 62m
16 Crystal Vision
Trad 50m
19 School Bouy

Pitch 1. Start on the left hand side of the large block 20m R of Dreams and Visions. Climb straight up through the 'dinner plates' to hanging belay at obvious horizontal 2m below RB. The rock on this pitch is surprisingly solid and the gear is sufficient. Doubles in camalots 3 & 4 are useful. Pitch 2 (crux). Climb straight up past bolt and medium cams (.75 camalot on R after bolt) to gain the arete just below where rock quality starts to deteriorate. Roll over arete to join Dreams and Visions to finish.

FA: Joe & Peter Blunt, 13 May 2017

Mixed trad 50m, 2, 1
19 Into the Mystic
Trad 50m
12 Mister Smee
Trad 40m
17 Oceanus
Trad 50m
17 Fear of Flying
Trad 50m
15 Nelson
Trad 46m
17 Silent Running
Trad 60m
15 Up Periscope
Trad 60m
19 The Devil and the Deep
Trad 560m
13 Grey and Green
Trad 40m
16 Easybeat
Trad 30m
16 Marianne
Trad 25m
21 Gunships over the Deep
Trad 30m
14 The Rolling Deep
Trad 45m
18 Snapping Jaws
Trad 45m

Showing all 85 routes.

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