Access issues inherited from Point Perpendicular

Point Perp is located within a Navy Weapons Range and is closed on most weekdays for live fire exercises. It is generally open only on weekends and during NSW school holidays, but even at these times access can be restricted due to crowding and the limited amount of car parking within the range. In peak season the entrance gates can therefore be closed for hours at a time until the range empties out again; at these times consider starting early to beat the rush. At all times of the year, it is best to ring the rangers to check accessibility before you go (02 4448 3411), to avoid the risk of being turned away.

If the range is closed you can always go to the Town Cliffs, accessed from Currarong.

Descent notes

The most convenient spots to abseil in are from the 2x carrots at the top of 'Walk the Plank' or 'Man Overboard'. However there are lots of other double carrots scattered along the top of the crag above most routes.

Ethic inherited from Point Perpendicular

Point Perp is predominantly a trad crag. There has been more bolting recently but this is a particularly contentious topic. A lot of the bolts are the traditional Aussie carrot and some routes require you to bring up to a dozen keyhole hangers.

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Grade Route

To reach the following route abseil in from the ring bolts at the top.

Awesome arete. Short, steep and sustained unlike many a point perp route.

Start next to 'Midnight Lightning' on left hand end of 'Ocean Boulevard'. Rap off rings at top of arete to small foot ledge. Use first ring and gear as belay. Take lots of 0.75 and 1 cams.

FA: Duncan Hunter, 2008

The following routes can be reached by abseiling in from the carrots at the top of 'Beside the Seaside' to double ring bolts at the start of 'Beside the Seaside'. The ledge here is quite narrow and is not recommended for access to routes on the left hand end of Windjammer Wall.

Abseiling from the double ring bolts will take you to down to Seaside Lower to the start of 'She Sells Sea Shells'.

Unpleasant. Start at extreme L end of Ocean Boulevard. Belay off some blocks at the bottom of the obvious buttress. L around the nose, then up, then L to longish ledge. Up middle of wall past flakes. Up corner, then huge flake on L wall. Finish up the crack on the L to avoid the top part of the flake (loose).

FFA: Peter Blunt & Ian Brown, 1986

First a trad route, never done. Then retrobolted and renamed. All but 2 bolts have been chopped by persons unknown in March 2013. Full trad rack now required! Starts at double ringbolt belay at the furthest you can safely walk left when on the Windjammer ledge.

FA: Peter Blunt & Ian Brown, 1985

Tucked away at the far left end of Ocean boulevard ledge are several shady routes. You can walk here from Grey Mist, but take a little care - the drop off below is bigger and easier here.

Great wall route all gear bar one U-bolt. Start up the obvious flake in the lower wall a few metres left of Hot To Trot's line of rings. Comes complete with excellent arete crack finish.

FA: John Fantini & James Hoy, 1990

Line of bolts left of the Montezuma corner, gaining in difficulty the higher you go. Stemming into Montezuma near the top is considered 'off-route'. Some climbers have complained that the middle bolts on this route are perilously close to Midnight Lightning.

FA: Rick Phillips & John Lattanzio, 1 Dec 2012

The corner. Interesting terrain, fairly sustained with good rock. Take lots of gear from hands upwards, hexes useful. Awkward gear belay in crack with large cams (Camalots #3-5).

FA: Ian Brown & Peter Blunt, 1985

Shady, steep, all bolts and great face moves. Don't confuse this with Vertical Romance. Start up the corner as for Montezuma, then follow the rings on the right wall and through a small roof up high.

Ignore the print guidebook's zero star rating - this is a great route with good bolts and deserves a lot more ascents. Shady all day, overhanging, all bolts and crazy cool moves. The line of ringbolts that starts up the flake line 5m left of the arete of Turning Of The Tide.

FA: Duncan Hunter

The arête direct, starting on left side (just right of Vertical Romance). 5 U-bolts, optional 2&3 camalot, one U-bolt and then join into last three carrot bolts of Turning of the Tide. Pumpy! Use long runners on the carrots to avoid ropedrag.

FA: Monty Curtis, 18 Apr 2016

The next routes are along the precision cut 30m high wall that gives Windjammer it's name. The left edge is the Turning of the Tide arete.

The left arete of Windjammer Wall. Incredible climbing up one the best aretes at Point Perp. Climb the arête and the face just to the right past lots of carrot bolts, supplemented by occasional medium sized cams. This was originally climbed onsight with no bolts (!) and was later "accidentally" retrobolted.

FA: Tony Barton, Joe Lynch, John Churchill & Mike Peck, 1988

Start just right of Turning of the Tide. Up past short corner and numerous breaks (natural gear) to headwall with three carrot bolts and a fixed hanger. Seriously tricky up high. #3 and #4 cams are handy right at the start.

FFA: Andrew Bull & Tony Barton, 1990

  1. Start at base of TOTT and climb up 10m to a semi hanging belay, poor pro. 2) Traverse 30 m right to a RHF corner. 3) Traverse 30 m right and belay from J ledge/corner. 4) Reposition belay to arete 5m right. 5) Traverse trickely 25 m right, belay at MO. 6) traverse 10 m to arete. 7) Traverse 15m to the SAD V-groove. 8) 10 m finish up any route on the face (easiest goes at 18).

FFA: Peter Blunt & Ian Brown, 1985

Daunting and inspiring trad masterpiece. The first thin weakness through the upper headwall on the left side of the wall. Easily up left facing flake to start, then up juggy wall (not well protected) to final searing seam. Full trad rack from #5 cam to tiny wires. (Breaking a hold between about 5m and about 10m will probably result in hitting the deck, many people start up Icebird instead to skip the unprotected choss section. Good gear is available on the top half of the route). Starts 2m left of 'Icebird'.

FFA: John Fantini & Phil Georgeff, 1988

The wide crack near the left side of the wall. A great line and a great climb. Up the jugs then the awkward wide crack.

FA: Peter Blunt & Ian Brown, 1984

The face between 'Icebird' & 'Dirty Dancing' Moderate climbing about grade 21 till big break 6m from top. Put in lots of bomber gear and punch to top!

FA: Tim Booth, Jun 2015

Crack just right of Icebird, which gets thinner and harder as you get higher and pumpder. This was John's pick of the area.

FFA: John Fantini & Phil Georgeff, 1988

The line of carrots left of Windjammer that leads to 2 bolt lower off. Take many cams and a handful of brackets (it's mostly trad). The direct finish is 26 and is called Halfway House Extension (for some reason). The lower-off will twist the s#it out of your rope - would be nice to see it upgraded.

The one bolt extension to Not All There. Thin and techy.

Variant finish to Windjammer. Start up Windjammer, then avoid the wide crack by stepping left into the white marble seam. Very challenging trad climb both the climbing and protection.

FFA: Robert Dun & Matt Scholes (preplaced gear), 2009

The right one of a trio of cracks. Ensure you place lots of good gear in the first half as some of the rock is a bit suspect.

FA: Ian Brown & Peter Blunt, 1984

FFA: Ian Brown & Bob McMillan, 1988

Follows the thin, right-sloping crack on the headwall R of Windjammer. Up suspect rock to the base of the crack. Follow the bolts below the slanting crack to the top. This route has been heavily retrobolted by Blowing in the Wind! (see the notes for the extension to that route)

FFA: Ant Phren, 1989

The leftmost of a trio of easier sport routes in the center of Windjammer Wall which puts about 4 retrobolts and a loweroff anchor onto The Sublime and the Ridiculous.

FA: Rick Phillips & Will Watkins, 19 Nov 2012

Two bolt extension of Blowing In The Wind to the top. Have fun with it!

FA: Tim Booth, Mar 2014

The middle of the trio. Fantastic climb; very technical and pumpy, save some gas for the top. Ringbolts.

FA: Rick Phillips & Will Watkins, 17 Nov 2012

Some nice holds on this one following the attractive seam. Up and R from the anchors past two more ringbolts and a cam.

The right of the trio. Steeper than it looks with a deceptive crux near the top. Three carrots up a slab to start, then a couple of FH's, then ringbolts. A royal sampler.

FA: Gareth Downey & Rick Phillips

4 bolts above DAD. Superb rock and thin technical climbing. Some of the best rock on the wall with small edges and pockets. Dedication to the vision of Will creating the line. With his Name and climbing hold company Unleashed : )

Set by will

FFA: Tim Booth

FA: Tim Booth, 2 Jul 2018

Climb between drunk and disorderly and feeding frenzy, tuff move at 3rd bolt then make your way up to double rings. Last 6 meters is an open project. Enjoy:)

FA: Tim Booth, 10 Nov 2017

The R-leaning shallow flake in the headwall that is L of the main overlap (Liquid Lunch). Start just to the R of the centre of Windjammer Wall beneath the flake. Climb the easy lower part of the wall (bolt) to the flake, move L near the top to finish.

FFA: Giles Bradbury, 1989

The R-ward leaning major diagonal flake on the R side of Windjammer Wall. Start a coupe of metres R of Feeding Frenzy, about 10m below a small rooflet. Up, tending R to a U-bolt at beginning of flake, then follow the flake and crack diagonally R to the top.

FFA: Giles Bradbury

The second line of rings left of Jaws' major corner. Five rings and several finger/hand sized cams to lower off anchors below the top of the cliff where the line joins Liquid Lunch. Connecting it into the top is a possibility at around grade 26 and has been attempted by Neil & others.

FA: Neil Monteith, 30 Mar 2013

Sustained and well protected wall climbing with characteristic Point Perp buckets and horizontals. Starts 2m left of 'SS Minow' below thin crack. Face to start, then up juggy crack to unlikely wall and right leading flake. When the holds run out at 20m traverse right to join 'SS Minow' at its last BR and finish for that route. Bring a full rack with doubles in the finger/hand sizes plus a #4 camalot to protect the first 5m.

FFA: Neil Monteith

Starts 5m left of the Jaws corner below the line of FHs. Up wall past three FHs then trad goodness until final climatic flake (BR). Single set of cams protects the rest. Finishes at left set of lower-offs about 4m short of the top of the wall. The single BR above is an open project.

FFA: Greg James, 2001

A link up for pikers. Do hate mail to last bolt, but instead head left to anchors on Ss Minnow, clipping bolt on way. Take a bolt plate.

Varied and sustained wall climbing up beautiful polished rock with the typical cruxy 'Windjammer' finish. Starts 1m left of 'Tenere' behind small tree and 2m right of 'SS Minow'. Five U-bolts and four or five good cam slots (fingers to hand size). Save a #2 Camalot for pocket in the finish moves. Lower-off anchor is 3m below the top of the cliff at large finish pocket.

FFA: Neil Monteith

A true line. Start in the corner as for Jaws. At the ledge climb the fiddly seam on the main (L) wall. Continue up the stunning crack to top. A #3 cam is usefull to protect last moves. Sling small tree and boulder for belay.

FA: Peter Blunt & Ian Brown, 1985

The obvious corner in the middle of the wall.

FFA: Peter Blunt & Ian Brown, 1984

Climb the face between 'Jaws' and 'Some Weird Sin'. Balance and exposed move low with tricky top section.

FA: Tim Booth, Jan 2015

Up slab right of corner, minimal gear. You can stay on slab until about 5m below top when step left to finish up jaws

FA: Ian brown

The central arete of Windjammer is Some Weird Sin. The following routes are right of this.

Start on the right-hand side of the middle arete of 'Windjammer Wall' - just right of Jaws. Up the wall and then arete passing bolts and cams. Move around to the R-side of the arete after clipping final bolt. Take lots of brackets.

FFA: Mike Moore & Greg James, 1998

Traverse at half height from the arete of Some Weird Sin to the corner of Man Overboard.

Start: Up the initial small corner of Hungry Eyes, or continue on from Blazing Jugs.

Start on top of the block, at the small L-facing corner just right of Some Weird Sin. Up enjoyable jugs, passing a couple of small overlaps to base of crack. Up thin crack then into hand crack to finish.

FFA: John Fantini & Phil Georgeff, 1988

Great sport climbing on lovely orange rock. This is the ringbolted line right of Hungry Eyes. If you stay where the bolts are and don't sneak off right where it is easier then you don't share any climbing with Permissability. Either way the last few metres are the crux! To get the full tick, climb past the double bolt anchors for one more move to the large pocket and back-jump to the anchors.

FFA: Matt Brooks, 2013

Set by Simon Vaughan, 2013

The one bolt extension of The Omen to enable the link into the top of Permissability. Super small pockets, just like 80s French limestone!

Set by Matt Brooks

FFA: Matt Brooks, 14 Apr 2013

The overlap right of Hungry Eyes. Awesome moves on great rock. Sustained through the top.

FFA: Duncan Hunter, 2009

Ascends the centre of this piece of wall to finish either up the thin crack (better pro, but harder) or the flake to its L. Another trad masterpiece.

FFA: John Fantini & Phil Georgeff, 1988

Start 3m L of Walk The Plank. Hard start with awkward second clip - care! Steel yourself for the top moves on the rounded flake. If Martin Luther King could dream I guess we all can...


Set by Rick Phillips, 2012

FFA: Will Watkins, 21 Dec 2012

This is awesome. Start below the fine crack with a bolt, 4m left of corner. Up the wall past breaks and three bolts. At third bolt head right up the double edged flake. Don't place gear behind the suss flakes if you enjoy life and are looking forward to more of it!

FA: Mark Wilson & Richard Watts, 1988

Start 3m L of the Man Overboard corner under the line of fixed hangers. Routefinding skills required at second bolt (!) Sustained climbing on fiddly, often sharp little holds finishing at lower-off 4m below the clifftop. Has been linked into the top flake of Walk The Plank to top out.

FA: Rick Phillips & Seb Sakowicz, 5 Oct 2012

The cliff takes a 90 degree turn at the major corner of Man Overboard. The ever popular Grey Mist is just right of this on the well worn grey face with flake features.

Start in the corner, just right of the typical abseil line. Better than it looks with varied climbing and good jamming at the top on clean rock.

FA: Peter Blunt & Ian Brown, 1984

Traverse at half height from the Man Overboard corner to the arete, about half way up Full Sail.

FA: Ian Brown & Peter Blunt

Most will agree, this climb is the best easy/moderate trad route at the Point and for miles around. Gear placement is amply available and the climbing consistent at the grade. Start in the middle of the dark south-facing wall to the right of the Man Overboard corner. Follow the sinuous crack as it slowly widens to hand size.

FA: Ian Brown & Peter Blunt, 1984

Excellent climbing, better than it looks.

Start: The crack just L of the arete, R of Grey Mist.

  1. 23m (19) Follow the crack until it stops then up L side of arete until able to move R to scoop on nose. Up scoop to good ledge on R.

  2. 17m (17) R along ledge and up the zig zag crack with interest.

FA: Ian Brown & Peter Blunt, 1984

The crack and then bolted arete to the top - the direct finish to 'Full Sail'.

Start: As for 'Full Sail', at the crack just left of the arete and to the right of 'Grey Mist'.

FA: John Fantini & Keith Bell, 1989

Start at a block below the middle of the wall on the right of the arete.

  1. 25m (20) Up to the ledge at 4m, then left to the loose vibrating pedestal. Step right to the thin seam/crack then up to the belay ledge as for 'Full Sail'.

  2. 17m (17) As for 'Full Sail'.

FA: Ian Brown & Peter Blunt, 1988

Traverse right from the belay of 'Night Shift' (i.e. halfway up 'Full Sail') to 'Search and Destroy'. Up this to finish.

FFA: Ian Brown & Bob McMillan, 1988

Up past ring bolts then bypass the dodgy block on the left to gain the 'Full Sail' ledge. Finish as for 'Full Sail'.

Start: In the middle of the wall just right of 'Saving Grace'.

FA: Glenn Jones, Mike Peck & Bob McMillan

The left facing corner at the right hand end of the wall.

  1. 20m Up the corner then groove to a nice ledge.

  2. 10m Originally up the wide corner at the back of the ledge but now most people prefer to climb the cracks just right of the corner.

FA: Ian Brown & Peter Blunt, 1984

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