Routes as trad in The Mild West

Searching in:

Route filters:

Ascent filters:


Other filters:

  • Style
  • Descent
  • Aspect
  • Steepness
  • Condition
  • Rock type
  • Legality
  • Walk in time
  • Water access
  • Walk in angle
  • Weather
Sort by: Bulk edit (max 100)

Showing all 66 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Slash Wall
12 Orb

First route on the wall. Easy jug hauling.

FA: Simon Vaughan & Matt Tranter, 14 Apr 2018

Trad 10m
14 Plunder

The route next on the right of Orb, a metre left of Slash. Straight up on nice rock with good gear.

FA: Robert Dun, 2010

Trad 10m
14 Slash

The obvious right leaning crack. Well protected on good rock.

FA: Werner Steyer, 2010

Trad 10m
15 Burn

Climb slash for a couple of moves and traverse right over the undercut. then straight up to the thin crack near the top.

FA: Ivan Valenta, 2010

Trad 10m
17 Second Degree Burn

Direct start to Burn. Climbed just after the tree blew away. Mantle start onto shelf stand up, place some gear and continue into Burn.

FA: Gavin Phillips, Nov 2011

Trad 10m
18 Naughtycal

The overhanging arete with a rooflet on the left side. Start at the blocks on the ledge. Climb the right side of the arete.

FA: Robert Dun & Ivan Valenta, 2010

Trad 10m
16 Winters Coming

Straight up the guts of the wall. Protect with small Friends.

FA: Matt Tranter, 24 Mar 2019

Trad 11m
12 Last of the summer wine

Mini wall with the descent station of Raptures Wall on it's far left side. The obvious crack on the right hand side of the wall.

FA: Matt Tranter & Simon Vaughan, 4 Apr 2018

Trad 11m
18 Swear Jar

Up steep wall with stonker gear and great holds

FA: Simon Vaughan, 26 May 2018

Trad 10m
12 Foot fetish

Bay to the left of Snitches. Left hand crack and wall. Exit left onto slash Wall ledge.

FA: Simon Vaughan & Matt Tranter, 7 Apr 2018

Trad 11m
15 Smooth as Silk

Up through the cheese following the slight hanging flake. Trend right at half height or when you can be bothered. 2 bolts set back from the lip to avoid the bash through the spider infested jungle.

FA: Matt Tranter & Simon Vaughan, 14 Apr 2018

Trad 11m
16 Doggy Door

Up obvious big corner / flake as per topo image above. Hoick up on the RB if you can't do the start the good climbing is on the wall

FA: Simon Vaughan, 5 May 2018

Mixed trad 10m, 1
17 Cat Flap

Wall on right. Small gear. Perfect rock on the wall. 1RB at the start.

FA: Simon Vaughan, May 2018

Trad 10m
16 A face full of bush

Long reaches to good ledges. Trend right. Exit with care into bush above. 2 bolts over the lip to access or lower from.

FA: Matt Tranter, 7 Apr 2018

Trad 11m
15 Flextime

Start at the clean slotted wall just left of the Banksia. Straight up the wall.

FA: Ian Brown & Peter Blunt, 1993

Trad 10m
15 Dry Feet

Start in the middle of the Banksia. Straight up wall to tricky exit.

FA: Ian Brown & Peter Blunt, 1993

Trad 10m
15 Armada

Start at the crack on the right end of the wall. Climb the arete with a tricky move at the top.

FA: Ian Brown & Peter Blunt, 1993

Trad 10m
Raptures Wall
19 Corner Project

Closed project - stay off.

TradProject 40m
20 Jolly Roger

Walk along the ledge until large blocks make you have to scramble over them... Above these blocks you will find the rap anchors.. Maybe clip a few of the bolts to keep in contact with wall and not allow you to end up in the drink... It's a mixed climb take a double set of cams to size 2 and a 3 and 4 are needed also...

You may have to set the bottom belay at a height that suits the swell size...

FA: Rick Phillips Troy Clifton, 13 Aug 2017

Trad 35m
21 Face Project

Closed project - stay off.

TradProject 40m
Neil's Arete Proj

The hanging arete, starting from small ledge just above water level on the left side of the arete. Closed project - stay off.

TradProject 20m
20 Tinder Surprise

Amazing climb in an amazing location. Rap off lower bolt from Rock Lobster and Dodged a bullet, Abseil 10 metres to the next ledge, stay on the rope and walk 4 metres to the edge and rap a further 30 mtrs to the belay.. You will pass the 2 bolts for the top belay and then a further 2 bolts at the bottom... You will be about 5 mtrs off the water when your at the belay. You can also start this climb from the big ledge at sea level, by traversing left (trad) and up to the original belay anchors. Use a double set of nuts as protection with a smattering of small and medium cams. Due to the tough access and remote feeling be solid with your grade or leave a fixed rope and carry prussics.

FA: Rick Phillips & Peter Cummings Christine Cummings

FFA: Grant Stewart & Simmo, 1 Mar 2015

Mixed trad 30m, 2, 7
14 Puffin

Major trad corner - starting from the left end of the ledge perched 2m above the ocean. The top 3rd of this route is a loose vegetated hillside and ruins what is otherwise quite a good route.

Trad 40m
19 Hook Line Sinker

A long wall route that goes all the way to the very top. Start at right hand end of ledge. Up carefully to first bolt or get some early trad protection in. Route finding is pretty difficult and the location is demanding. You should be fairly pumped when you get to the next bolt 20 mtrs up! Bring a full rack, doubles of cams and wires. The rock near the top is a bit choss but the gear is good (if you still have any left on your rack!). Not recommend if this grade is your limit.

FA: Rick Phillips, Aug 2017

Mixed trad 35m, 5
15 Raptures of the Deep

Surprisingly popular despite the exotic location for the grade. Depending on the swell height, belay either at water level or on a ledge about 8m up. A fantastic climb from a great position. Abseil from the first set of rings.

FA: Ian Brown & Peter Blunt, 1993

Trad 25m
20 Raptor

A good face crack - with heaps of jugs on either side for most of the way up. The very final move through the slick bulge is certainly the crux! Scramble up blocky stuff to rap rings. All trad.

Trad 35m
22 The Fish Book

Steep corner 3m right of Raptor, starting on small ledge about 2m above the ocean. There are double rings to belay off. Stem the juggy corner that gets more fused the higher it gets, until forced onto the face on the left wall - then finish through a couple of steep bulges. Once the good rock ends, scramble up the blocky vegetated hill for 10m to belay from rap rings (shared with Raptor). This is a mixed route, take at minimum a single set of cams from finger to fist size (doubles of #2 camalot) + single set of wires and a few long quickdraws. This route was partially retrobolted by mistake, after the first ascentists didn't write up their all-trad ascent.

FA: Simmo & Grant Stewart, 2015

Mixed trad 37m, 5
23 Good Love

Superb hanging arete to the right of The Fish Book with slick orange rock. Mostly bolts, but still requires a single set of finger to hand sized cams. This is quite a pumper! (who wants to try the first DWS ascent?). Like the other routes on this wall, once you get to the top of the good steep rock you need to scramble up easy blocky terrain for 10m to the ledge. This route was partially retrobolted by mistake, after the first ascentists didn't write up their route.

FA: Grant Stewart & Simmo

FA: 1 Mar 2015

Mixed trad 37m, 8
21 No Man
Trad 25m
20 Time and Tide

The most sustained of the routes on this side of the wall with excellent rock and quite a few shiny ringbolts. It's still a mixed climb though, so bring a single set of trad.

Trad 32m
21 Oceans of You

Climbs the far right edge of this wall. Starts out innocently enough up great orange pockets - and finishes with a tricky move through the bulge on slightly suss rock. Mostly trad - 1 or 2 bolts at the finish.

Trad 32m
Bob's Cliff
16 Dundee
Trad 12m
19 Naughty but Nice
Trad 10m
18 Grunties
Trad 8m
5 Peter Periwinkle
Trad 8m
9 Derek the Octopus
Trad 10m
12 Lunging Limpet
Trad 8m
14 Nosepickings
Trad 6m
16 Gopher Writ
Trad 5m
8 Dogfish
Trad 6m
6 Penguin
Trad 5m
4 Lizard Ramp
Trad 5m
12 Sneaker
Trad 5m
16 For a Giggle
Trad 6m
10 Just for Fun
Trad 5m
14 Golden Summers
Trad 6m
15 Self Raising Flower
Trad 6m
16 Fandango
Trad 6m
16 Burning Deck
Trad 9m
20 Megadeath
Trad 20m
21 Over the Rainbow

The arete left of 'Room with a View'. Classic grit style climbing, no gear above the horizontal at one third height. Just as well there is a big clean fallout zone.

Start: As for 'Room with a View'

Trad 9m
12 Room with a View

Up the obvious corner.

FA: Glen Jones & Bob McMillan, 1988

Trad 9m
15 Bedroom Wall

Up the wall right of 'Room with a View'

Start: As for 'Room with a View'

Trad 9m
Rainbird Wall
18 Misconceptions
Trad 18m
9 Exit
Trad 8m
18 Seals and Submarines
Mixed trad 12m, 2
15 Craving Penetrations
Trad 18m
18 Rainbird
Trad 16m
11 Scurvy
Trad 20m
T-Shirt Gully
6 Sweat Shirt

Follows the flaking ramp left of 'Boardshorts'.

FA: Ivan Valenta & Robert Dun, 2002

Trad 10m
11 Boardshorts

The twin cracks 2m left of the corner, 'Polo Shirt'.

FA: Bob McMillan & Glenn Jones, 1986

Trad 10m
10 Polo Shirt

The obvious corner.

FA: Ivan Valenta & Robert Dun, 2002

Trad 10m
10 Thongs

The arete left of 'T-shirt'.

FA: Glenn Jones & Bob McMillan, 1986

Trad 10m
7 T-shirt

The obvious large diagonal crack on the western side of 'T-shirt Gully'

Start: From the large ledge at the base of the crack.

FA: Bob McMillan & Glenn Jones, 1986

Trad 10m
12 Flanny

The wide corner crack on the right side of 'T-shirt'.

FA: Robert Dun & Ivan Valenta, 2002

Trad 10m
8 Hawaiian Shirt

Bridges up between the big blocks on the west side of T Shirt Gully. Start up the south side of the blocks and step left when it becomes too wide to bridge.

FA: Ivan Valenta & Robert Dun, 2002

Trad 10m

Showing all 66 routes.

Deutsch English Español Français Italiano 한국어 中文