Routes as trad in Thunder Head

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Showing all 56 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Thunderbird Wall
18 The Countess

Up Deep Sea Mullet for 8m then traverse left onto the sandy pocketed face.

Trad 18m
17 Deep Sea Mullet

Short crack splitting the wall just left of the corner. Seeps badly down low after heavy rain.

Trad 12m
18 Miss Penelope

The short dark stemming corner on the left end of Thunderbird Wall, starting on high vegetated ledge. A little fiddly to protect. Seeps after heavy rain.

Trad 12m
20 No Strings Attached

At the left end of the main wall, and just right of the dark corner is a seam crack. This route climbs the face just right of the crack. Protection is quite spaced and not great - be warned. Grade is probably a bit of a sandbag as well.

Trad 15m
21 Thunderbirds Are Go

The pocketed grey face on the right edge of the higher vegetated ledge. The climb wanders around in a bid to find protection and holds. Be careful - trad gear is spaced. Double ropes or long slings useful.

Trad 20m
21 Virgil
Trad 20m
21 Brain
Trad 20m
21 Dad

A fine sustained wall route. Not as direct as the print guide makes out - unless you add several grades. Start over the bulge just left of the bolted route, then up the face on good horizontals to major horizontal break. Traverse left across this for 2m then up the face, then left again to join into Brain for a move then back right and finish up big sandy pockets. Double ropes useful. Protection is good but spaced. Bring cams to size #4.

Trad 20m
23 Fab

One of the most popular routes on the wall, mainly because it's mostly bolts! Don't be too relaxed though, the bolts are spaced and you need a spot of trad in the middle section (small cams). The moves and rock are fab though. Starts at right end of wall at undercut section. Stickclip first bolt or get a good spot.

Mixed trad 25m, 5
22 Thunderbirds Are Bogged

The best and most popular route on Thunderbird Wall. Exposure, good bolts and lovely polished orange rock all the way. Starts at right end of wall as for "Fab" then traverse right (crossing Aquamarina) and up large heucos. Mostly bolts but a light trad rack is needed.

Mixed trad 25m, 5
21 Aquamarina

Starts 1m right of Fab, at furthest right you can safely stand on the chossy ledge. Rap in and pre-place wire about 4m up the route as your first runner or stick clip first bolt on Fab if you really feel the fear. Boulder the undercut start, crux, then wander up wall with spaced but good trad gear. Vital micro cams (black/blue Alien size) about midway up the route. Gear to #3 Camalot.

FA: Tony Barten, Mike Peck & John Churchill, 1988

Trad 20m
22 Thunderbirds Are Gone

The right arete of the main wall, starting on ledge system 10m below the main ledge. One bolt and trad.

Mixed trad 40m, 1
Roy's Wall
18 Reel Men

The first three routes share the same start - a left facing layback flake above an undercut roof. This route takes the left line, splitting after the 2nd bolt and climbing a subtle right facing flake in the middle and jumbo pockets at the end. It's a mixed route so take a couple of wires for the start, some medium cams and a long sling for excellent thread in the jumbo pockets in the last section.

FA: Neil Monteith, Matt Brooks & Marak, 23 Mar 2013

Mixed trad 15m, 5
19 East Coast Choppers

Best of the routes on this section of wall, with excellent slabby crimping on bomber rock. It's the middle line starting as for Reel Men and finishing up the juggy central groove directly below the rap rings. Single set of cams/wires to fist size supplements the bolts.

FA: Neil Monteith, Matt Brooks & Marak, 23 Mar 2013

Mixed trad 15m, 4
20 Hero with a Hammer

Technical thought provoking crimping on slightly slabby rock. Climb the start layback flake of Reel Men then blast directly up the wall above, with a slight right trend. Finishes up easy but hard to protect giant pockets. Two finger sized cams, plus single set of cams from hand to fist supplement the spaced bolts.

FA: Neil Monteith, Matt Brooks & Marak, 23 Mar 2013

Mixed trad 16m, 4
20 The Angle Grinder

The right most route utilizing the flake start of East Coast Choppers. Halfway up the flake traverse right onto face (ring) and up face above past a couple of rings and lots of bomber medium cam slots. Bring some larger cams for the giant finish pockets or just run it out.

FA: Neil Monteith, Marek & Louie, 31 Mar 2013

Mixed trad 20m, 5
24 Iron Harvest (trad start)

An easier alternative trad start up shallow left facing flake crack 2m left of the 'face start'. Belay off single RB.

FA: Neil Monteith & Marak, 28 Apr 2013

Mixed trad 26m, 5
24 Iron Harvest (face start)

A long climb with variety! Find top of Pinochio - fix rope and rap 25m down to vegetated ledge with single bolt anchor below orange face sprouting ringbolts. Up gorgeous orange face on slopers, through a juggy bulge then left out rooflet on gnarly pockets and onto grey slab (bolts end here). Finish up reachy horizontal features and crimps with bomber cam slots just left of Pinochio.

FA: Neil Monteith & Marak, 28 Apr 2013

Mixed trad 27m, 8
19 Pinochio And The Witch

Rap into high ledge (anchor off rap rope). This route climbs the left trending crack line off the left.

Trad 15m
18 Roy's Route
Trad 20m
15 The Ramp
Trad 40m
13 Beware The Bleary Eyed Dragon
Trad 20m
Fisho's Descent Area
10 Broomstick Excursion Pass
Trad 40m
20 Blue Stocking

A mixed route requiring big cams. Start at major left facing wide corner 5m right of cave. Up this easy corner to large ledge at 10m then climb wall above past two RBs and a manky FH to trad protected top (more big cams). This route may actually not be Blue Stocking, but another mystery unrecorded route.

FA: John Churchill, Mike Peck & Anne Hastings, 1988

Mixed trad 15m, 3
12 Fisho's Corner

Easy trad corner starting from triangular ledge about 10m down. Was once the location of the dodgy fishos descent ropes!

Trad 10m
Solstice Wall
10 The Crack
Mixed trad 15m, 1
15 Over The Moon
Mixed trad 15m, 5
Tequilla Sunrise
17 The Tempest

Obvious overhung corner crack, bottom seeps a little after rain.

Trad 20m
20 Greasy Nipple

The escape route for 'Tequila Slammer' is harder than expected! Climbs up corner and into chimney slot at top. The exit move is exciting.

FA: Rick Phillips, Jason Lammers, lous Blundell & Gilles Bonin, 7 May 2016

Trad 18m
VB Slab Area
18 Free the Nipple

Left most climb on VB Slab. Rap to massive ledge to RB and carrot belay. Up right of vertical seem. Take care clipping the 2nd carrot.

Can be used as an escape route for 'Passion Pop'

FA: Jason Lammers & Rick Phillips, 7 May 2016

Trad 15m
19 Brewers Droop

Far left route starting off small ledge. Shares first few bolts with Mates. Mostly carrots, but bring some cams.

FA: Jason Lammers, Apr 2016

Trad 25m
17 Mates

Up from the 2RB belay past a few carrots and then trad up the crack past another carrot towards the top.

Trad 25m
18 I Feel Like A Hughey

Shared belay ledge as for 'Mates' The right route off the belay with some thin moves about halfway up the wall.

Trad 25m
18 Passage Of The Whale
Trad 40m
19 Prawn Sandwich

Rap from a single carrot (backup with any of the Army RBs that are all over the place here) to semi hanging belay above the big roof. Thin and sustained. Carrots and maybe a No3. Camalot in the easy section (or just run it out)

FA: Jason Lammers & Rick Phillips, 14 May 2016

Trad 32m
18 Whale Aid
Trad 25m
19 Green Thunder
Trad 25m
20 Rick's Trick

Has a move and a RB over the bulge about half way up the wall. Semi hanging belay above the cave.

FA: Rick Phillips, May 2016

Trad 30m
18 One For The Whale
Trad 25m
19 Whale of a Time

Belay off 2RB right down at lip of big roof, not the single RB at the small ledge. From the belay, up past a couple of wires to a carrot, mantle up on to the ledge and continue up the nice wall. Bring some wires for the start and a few medium cams for the rest or run it out on carrots.

FA: Jason Lammers & Aleasha Way, 10 Apr 2016

Trad 32m
17 A Nice Cold Fear
Trad 25m
18 Alesha's route

Abseil off rings where shrubs suddenly come close to cliff. Must be close to a nice cold fear, but now sports bolts though a few cams needed to #3.

FA: aleasha Way & Rick Phillips, 9 Apr 2016

Trad 30m
20 Short Arms Deep Pockets

Shorter route on the right end of the slab, with a hanging belay above the cave.

FA: Rick Phillips, Apr 2016

Mixed trad 20m, 5
Twist Top Wall
19 Amber Nectar
Trad 25m
12 Twist Top

Follow the bolt line (take brackets), supplementing with small & medium cams through the first half of the climb

Mixed trad 25m, 6
15 Twist top direct finish

Start as for twist top but follow the corner all the way up

Mixed trad 25m, 1
12 Wolfman
Trad 20m
10 Stubby Holder
Trad 25m
14 Milk Crates, Bats And Spiders
Trad 25m
16 Long As A Schlong
Trad 10m
10 Cornflake Corner
Trad 10m
16 Compass Airways
Trad 15m
Orange wall
16 Long as a Schlong

Start 1 meter left of the corner. Up wall on large pockets.

FA: Matt Andrews, Adrien Andrews & John de Martin, 1993

Trad 10m
10 Cornflake Corner

Up right hand corner

FA: Adrien Andrews & Matt Andrews, 1993

Trad 10m
Mission Brown Wall
15 The Cave
Mixed trad 20m, 3
24 Mission Improbable
Trad 35m

Showing all 56 routes.

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