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A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

will Simon Vaughan Jason Lammers Oliver Story Tim Booth

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Table of contents

1. Point Perpendicular 770 routes in Crag

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Trad climbing, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: -35.040913, 150.805996

summary

Point Perpendicular is a beautiful seaside climbing area with a fantastic atmosphere and often incredible exposure.

description

Has been re-structured to more closely align with the most recent (2011) guidebook by Robert Dun. The main difference being that the Upper and Lower cliff lines are grouped into common areas.

access issues

Point Perp is located within a Navy Weapons Range and is closed on most weekdays for live fire exercises. It is generally open only on weekends and during NSW school holidays, but even at these times access can be restricted due to crowding and the limited amount of car parking within the range. In peak season the entrance gates can therefore be closed for hours at a time until the range empties out again; at these times consider starting early to beat the rush. At all times of the year, it is best to ring the rangers to check accessibility before you go (02 4448 3411), to avoid the risk of being turned away.

If the range is closed you can always go to the Town Cliffs, accessed from Currarong.

approach

Very easy drive, bitumen to the entrance station at Currarong, then 10km of dirt to the Lighthouse. Then a very easy walk, only 2-5 minutes walk for the main sectors.

where to stay

There is car camping at Honeymoon Bay with toilets but no water. This is inside the navy weapons range and signposted on the drive-in track. It's only open Friday and Saturday nights, plus Sunday nights during NSW long weekends and all week during NSW school holidays. During school holidays it can be full with family holidaymakers; you'll need to book a long way in advance.

You can also stay at a caravan park at Currarong or Callala.

ethic

Point Perp is predominantly a trad crag. There has been more bolting recently but this is a particularly contentious topic. A lot of the bolts are the traditional Aussie carrot and some routes require you to bring up to a dozen keyhole hangers.

1.1. The Tubes 14 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport climbing, Deep water soloing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -35.088182, 150.799432

description

Don't climb on the sea side of the gully, too many fishermen.

approach

Nice and easy. Park at the lighthouse parking and about a 1km walk to the cliff. To get to the base of the wall, just head down the stairs and around the rocks until you are on the waterside.

descent notes

Wander through the scrub to get back to the path at the top of the stairs.

history

Very popular fishing location so can be a bit messy (probably why there has been no recorded climbs here) but with the addition of bins and a toilet before the stairs, this has the potential to be a good low grade wall.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Fire When Ready

Follow the dark grey splotch straight up the wall. Grade may be off, I'm not a route climber (boulderer, sue me...), just going on other things I've solo'd around here.

FA: Jack Folkes (Solo), 6 Sep 2013

14 Trad 8m
2 Unknown

Set of carrots on top. No info on grade.

Trad 8m

1.1.1. Outer Tubes Gully 8 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -35.087950, 150.799611

summary

Easy access, family friendly in an awesome area. Good idea to wear a helmet at least while belaying in case any loose stuff comes away, it is a newish cliff in a sea environment.

description

15 metre high walls in a picturesque and dramatic sea cliff gully

access issues

Usual weekend and school holiday access only

approach

20 minute walk in on the groomed Outer Tubes trail from the lighthouse carpark. Instead of continuing down the steel staircase as for the fishos area, slip off the trail to the left at the post and then easy scramble down to the gully. The great wall is on your left.

where to stay

As for other areas

ethic

Bolts and supplementary cams if so inclined. IF YOU POO AT THE BOTTOM OF THIS CLIFF (AS PER EVIDENCE FOUND RECENTLY) YOU WILL BE FOUND THROUGH DNA TRACKING AND FED TO TO THE SHARKS, THERE IS A TOILET AT THE TOP OF THE CLIFF YOU LAZY, FERAL !!!!!!!!!!!

history

Discovered September 2017 on a family walk by the Vaughans

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Half Mast

The left most route as you arrive after the scramble down the descent gully. Thankfully stops before the band of choss is encountered. Short and fun warm up.

Set by Matt Tranter, 2018

FA: Matt Tranter, 21 Jan 2018

16 Sport 5
2 Captain Barnacles

2nd route on the wall as you face the cliff. Great climbing with the exception of one band of choss. Great holds all the way up.

Set by Matt Tranter

FA: Matt Tranter, 17 Sep 2017

17 Sport 15m, 8
3 The Red Bean

Great easy, pockets, edges, jugs and layaways, best easy route here

FA: Simon Vaughan, 9 Sep 2017

15 Sport 15m
4 Tumbles

Lovely climbing down low between some positive crimps at the crux, jugs to the anchors, you can think your way through the cruxes

FFA: Simon Vaughan

Set by Simon Vaughan

FA: Simon Vaughan, 6 Jan 2018

19 Sport 15m
5 Loose Lips Sink Ships

Slightly powerful at the start to great climbing up high

FFA: rick phillips & michelle stewart

FA: Rick Phillips & Michelle Stewart, 8 Sep 2017

19 Sport 15m, 8
6 Friend or Foe 19 Sport 15m, 8
7 Fashion Tights

Warning Flora and Fauna: Wasps nest

Just great climbing

18 Sport 15m
8 Mixing Fashion with Fun

Up shallow corner crack line (grade 12) on the right of Fashion Tights. Up crack line to ledge then step left and finish up the last 3 bolts of Fashion Tights

FA: Tom Thompson, 25 Sep 2017

17 Trad 15m

1.1.2. Deep Water Face 4 routes in Area

Summary:
All Deep water soloing

Lat / Long: -35.088786, 150.799393

summary

Fun deep water solo area on good rock with plenty of potential.

description

Watch out for the barnacles! Big jugs all over. Climb up for fun and jump off when scared.

access issues

Don't come here if there is a big swell running..

approach

Access by kayak or paddle board is easiest, make sure the swell is under 3ft... You can carry watercraft down from the point perp carpar via the tubes fire trail. If you are up for a multi sport adventure it is possible to swim from the Gully

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Hairy Pores

Committing heel up to nice sun baking ledge... Jump when ready

18 Deep water solo 10m
2 Dolphin Watch

Easy climbing, crux is finding good rock at the start closer to the water

16 Deep water solo 16m
3 Diffusion

Conquer the overhang via some fun layback moves. When at the comfortable ledge take a deep breath and use the finger crack to go a bit higher.

FA: Hayden L, 8 Jun 2019

19 Deep water solo 20m
4 Second Thought

Up the left face of the arete to the obvious ledge, then bombs away.

FA: Hayden L, 8 Jun 2019

17 Deep water solo 10m

1.2. The Mild West 75 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -35.090755, 150.799831

description

The Mild West is less exposed than most other crags at Point Perp. The routes are also generally moderate and short, making it a good introductory area.

1.2.1. Slash Wall 8 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -35.090667, 150.799674

description

A small cliff on the top tier sitting above Kwortzkliff.

descent notes

Walk down to the base or abseil off an anchor. Natural gear required for anchor setup.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Orb

First route on the wall. Easy jug hauling.

FA: Simon Vaughan & Matt Tranter, 14 Apr 2018

12 Trad 10m
2 Plunder

The route next on the right of Orb, a metre left of Slash. Straight up on nice rock with good gear.

FA: Robert Dun, 2010

14 Trad 10m
3 Slash

The obvious right leaning crack. Well protected on good rock.

FA: Werner Steyer, 2010

14 Trad 10m
4 Burn

Climb slash for a couple of moves and traverse right over the undercut. then straight up to the thin crack near the top.

FA: Ivan Valenta, 2010

15 Trad 10m
5 Second Degree Burn

Direct start to Burn. Climbed just after the tree blew away. Mantle start onto shelf stand up, place some gear and continue into Burn.

FA: Gavin Phillips, Nov 2011

17 Trad 10m
6 Rock lobster

Right hand side of short wall or furthest left hand side of cave.. Up steeply on mega jugs.

FA: Rick phillips

16 Sport 10m, 5
7 Dodged a Bullet

Second line of bolts from left hand end.. Steeply up on mostly good holds but you may have to hang around to find them

FA: Rick Phillips & Jason Lammers

19 Sport 10m, 7
8 Cut Loose Mother Goose

Right hand route in cave. Start under the scoop and work your way up to the crouched position below final headwall. Getting out of the crouched position is always fun for those watching..

FA: Rick Phillips Marty Beare

20 Sport 10m

1.2.2. Kwortzkliff 13 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -35.090523, 150.799557

description

Kwortzkliff is on the lower tier below Slash Wall.

descent notes

It is safest to abseil in from the top of Slash Wall. You can also scramble down a couple of dodgy gullies at the right hand end - NOT recommended.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

The following routes are at the left hand end of the cliff. Routes described left to right looking in.

1 Naughtycal

The overhanging arete with a rooflet on the left side. Start at the blocks on the ledge. Climb the right side of the arete.

FA: Robert Dun & Ivan Valenta, 2010

18 Trad 10m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 Winters Coming

Straight up the guts of the wall. Protect with small Friends.

FA: Matt Tranter, 24 Mar 2019

16 Trad 11m
3 Last of the summer wine

Mini wall with the descent station of Raptures Wall on it's far left side. The obvious crack on the right hand side of the wall.

FA: Matt Tranter & Simon Vaughan, 4 Apr 2018

12 Trad 11m

The following routes are one bay back right.

4 Swear Jar

Up steep wall with stonker gear and great holds

FA: Simon Vaughan, 26 May 2018

18 Trad 10m
5 Foot fetish

Bay to the left of Snitches. Left hand crack and wall. Exit left onto slash Wall ledge.

FA: Simon Vaughan & Matt Tranter, 7 Apr 2018

12 Trad 11m
6 Smooth as Silk

Up through the cheese following the slight hanging flake. Trend right at half height or when you can be bothered. 2 bolts set back from the lip to avoid the bash through the spider infested jungle.

FA: Matt Tranter & Simon Vaughan, 14 Apr 2018

15 Trad 11m
7 Doggy Door

Up obvious big corner / flake as per topo image above. Hoick up on the RB if you can't do the start the good climbing is on the wall

FA: Simon Vaughan, 5 May 2018

16 Mixed trad 10m, 1
8 Cat Flap

Wall on right. Small gear. Perfect rock on the wall. 1RB at the start.

FA: Simon Vaughan, May 2018

17 Trad 10m

The next bay to the right. Left hand wall is Snitches.

9 Snitches Get Stitches

Short pumpy overhanging arete.. Great gymnastic moves on really good rock

FA: Rick Phillips

18 Sport 10m
10 A face full of bush

Long reaches to good ledges. Trend right. Exit with care into bush above. 2 bolts over the lip to access or lower from.

FA: Matt Tranter, 7 Apr 2018

16 Trad 11m

3 bays back right. Identified by the great rock and the large Banksia Tree growing in the middle of the bay.

11 Flextime

Start at the clean slotted wall just left of the Banksia. Straight up the wall.

FA: Ian Brown & Peter Blunt, 1993

15 Trad 10m
12 Dry Feet

Start in the middle of the Banksia. Straight up wall to tricky exit.

FA: Ian Brown & Peter Blunt, 1993

15 Trad 10m
13 Armada

Start at the crack on the right end of the wall. Climb the arete with a tricky move at the top.

FA: Ian Brown & Peter Blunt, 1993

15 Trad 10m

1.2.3. Raptures Wall 18 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -35.090827, 150.799502

description

A steep red coloured wall which ascends from deep water - located below 'Kwortzkliff' at the end of the crag. The smooth water washed rock on this wall is excellent quality, but turns totally slick, damp and feral in the slightest humidity. Avoid in summer altogether.

descent notes

Access the 'Kwortzkliff' ledge by abseiling or dodgy downclimbing and head to Bob's Cliff end of the ledge where there are 3 sets of ring bolts for abseiling into the routes. The ring bolts do not always line up with the routes, so choose your abseil point with care.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Corner Project

Closed project - stay off.

19 TradProject 40m
2 Jolly Roger

Walk along the ledge until large blocks make you have to scramble over them... Above these blocks you will find the rap anchors.. Maybe clip a few of the bolts to keep in contact with wall and not allow you to end up in the drink... It's a mixed climb take a double set of cams to size 2 and a 3 and 4 are needed also...

You may have to set the bottom belay at a height that suits the swell size...

FA: Rick Phillips Troy Clifton, 13 Aug 2017

20 Trad 35m
3 Face Project

Closed project - stay off.

21 TradProject 40m
4 Neil's Arete Proj

The hanging arete, starting from small ledge just above water level on the left side of the arete. Closed project - stay off.

TradProject 20m
5 Tinder Surprise

Amazing climb in an amazing location. Rap off lower bolt from Rock Lobster and Dodged a bullet, Abseil 10 metres to the next ledge, stay on the rope and walk 4 metres to the edge and rap a further 30 mtrs to the belay.. You will pass the 2 bolts for the top belay and then a further 2 bolts at the bottom... You will be about 5 mtrs off the water when your at the belay. You can also start this climb from the big ledge at sea level, by traversing left (trad) and up to the original belay anchors. Use a double set of nuts as protection with a smattering of small and medium cams. Due to the tough access and remote feeling be solid with your grade or leave a fixed rope and carry prussics.

FA: Rick Phillips & Peter Cummings Christine Cummings

FFA: Grant Stewart & Simmo, 1 Mar 2015

20 Mixed trad 30m, 2, 7

The next few routes all start on a large comfy ledge, perched about 2m above the ocean. You can walk around on this ledge unroped. Although the water looks tempting for a swim, sharks have been seen cruising past and the barnacles would make getting back out again a nasty business.

6 Squid lips

Either start off the main ledge near the corner "Puffin" or rap as per Tinder Surprise to independent belay anchors.. Small to medium cams at start and then bolts to the top. Crux at mid height.. Highly polished rock will make this climb harder with humidity.

FA: Rick Phillips

24 Sport 20m
7 Puffin

Major trad corner - starting from the left end of the ledge perched 2m above the ocean. The top 3rd of this route is a loose vegetated hillside and ruins what is otherwise quite a good route.

14 Trad 40m
8 Tails of a Salty Dawg

Rap down as per Tinder Surprise.. But as you rap down head to your right about 2 mtrs.. You are looking at Salty Dawg on the wall to your right..

Ridiculously fun jugging through the steepness. Turn the lip and burst out into the sun and climb the orange headwall to the anchors.. Take in the view whilst you belay... Pitch two is the short traverse "2 bolts" to the anchor of Tinder Surprise..

FA: Rick Phillips Kate Sawford

17 Sport 25m
9 Sleeping Serpent

First three bolts of Dream Weaver then head left over the lip of the roof. Then the crux is on the immaculate orange rock of the head wall.. Wires and small cams protect the easing top section to the anchors..

The name is originated from the Diamond Python i used to rap over daily we became good friends☺

FA: Rick Phillips

21 Sport 25m
10 Dream Weaver

Start off the main ledge, just before it narrows. Climb steeply through and around the bulges... Take small wires and small to medium cams for the middle..

FA: Rick Phillips, Doug Bell & Aleasha Way

21 Sport 28m
11 Hook Line Sinker

A long wall route that goes all the way to the very top. Start at right hand end of ledge. Up carefully to first bolt or get some early trad protection in. Route finding is pretty difficult and the location is demanding. You should be fairly pumped when you get to the next bolt 20 mtrs up! Bring a full rack, doubles of cams and wires. The rock near the top is a bit choss but the gear is good (if you still have any left on your rack!). Not recommend if this grade is your limit.

FA: Rick Phillips, Aug 2017

19 Mixed trad 35m, 5
12 Raptures of the Deep

Surprisingly popular despite the exotic location for the grade. Depending on the swell height, belay either at water level or on a ledge about 8m up. A fantastic climb from a great position. Abseil from the first set of rings.

FA: Ian Brown & Peter Blunt, 1993

15 Trad 25m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

The following three routes are accessed by either traversing right from the ledge at the base of Dream Weaver (juggy but vertical traverse about 2m above the water!) - or - fixing a 40m rope to the third set of ring bolts on the ledge above the wall (at base of small cave) and rapping in. There is a small ledge and cave at base of The Fish Book with double rings to belay from.

13 Raptor

A good face crack - with heaps of jugs on either side for most of the way up. The very final move through the slick bulge is certainly the crux! Scramble up blocky stuff to rap rings. All trad.

20 Trad 35m
14 The Fish Book

Steep corner 3m right of Raptor, starting on small ledge about 2m above the ocean. There are double rings to belay off. Stem the juggy corner that gets more fused the higher it gets, until forced onto the face on the left wall - then finish through a couple of steep bulges. Once the good rock ends, scramble up the blocky vegetated hill for 10m to belay from rap rings (shared with Raptor). This is a mixed route, take at minimum a single set of cams from finger to fist size (doubles of #2 camalot) + single set of wires and a few long quickdraws. This route was partially retrobolted by mistake, after the first ascentists didn't write up their all-trad ascent.

FA: Simmo & Grant Stewart, 2015

22 Mixed trad 37m, 5
15 Good Love

Superb hanging arete to the right of The Fish Book with slick orange rock. Mostly bolts, but still requires a single set of finger to hand sized cams. This is quite a pumper! (who wants to try the first DWS ascent?). Like the other routes on this wall, once you get to the top of the good steep rock you need to scramble up easy blocky terrain for 10m to the ledge. This route was partially retrobolted by mistake, after the first ascentists didn't write up their route.

FA: Grant Stewart & Simmo

FA: 1 Mar 2015

23 Mixed trad 37m, 8

Access the next route from the 2nd set of rap rings on the ledge.

16 No Man 21 Trad 25m

Access these two routes by fixing a 35m rope from the first set of rap rings on the ledge. The belay ledge is about 5m above the ocean and requires trad.

17 Time and Tide

The most sustained of the routes on this side of the wall with excellent rock and quite a few shiny ringbolts. It's still a mixed climb though, so bring a single set of trad.

20 Trad 32m
18 Oceans of You

Climbs the far right edge of this wall. Starts out innocently enough up great orange pockets - and finishes with a tricky move through the bulge on slightly suss rock. Mostly trad - 1 or 2 bolts at the finish.

21 Trad 32m

1.2.4. Bob's Cliff 22 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -35.091004, 150.799926

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Dundee 16 Trad 12m
2 Naughty but Nice 19 Trad 10m
3 Grunties 18 Trad 8m
4 Peter Periwinkle 5 Trad 8m
5 Derek the Octopus 9 Trad 10m
6 Lunging Limpet 12 Trad 8m

The following climbs start from Penguin ledge.

7 Nosepickings 14 Trad 6m
8 Gopher Writ 16 Trad 5m
9 Dogfish 8 Trad 6m
10 Penguin 6 Trad 5m
11 Lizard Ramp 4 Trad 5m
12 Sneaker 12 Trad 5m
13 For a Giggle 16 Trad 6m
14 Just for Fun 10 Trad 5m
15 Golden Summers 14 Trad 6m
16 Self Raising Flower 15 Trad 6m
17 Fandango 16 Trad 6m
18 Burning Deck 16 Trad 9m
19 Megadeath 20 Trad 20m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

The following climbs start from a ledge at the base of the obvious corner, 'Room with a View'.

20 Over the Rainbow

The arete left of 'Room with a View'. Classic grit style climbing, no gear above the horizontal at one third height. Just as well there is a big clean fallout zone.

Start: As for 'Room with a View'

21 Trad 9m
21 Room with a View

Up the obvious corner.

FA: Glen Jones & Bob McMillan, 1988

12 Trad 9m
22 Bedroom Wall

Up the wall right of 'Room with a View'

Start: As for 'Room with a View'

15 Trad 9m

1.2.5. Rainbird Wall 7 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -35.091336, 150.800077

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Misconceptions 18 Trad 18m
2 Exit 9 Trad 8m
3 Seals and Submarines 18 Mixed trad 12m, 2
4 Craving Penetrations 15 Trad 18m
5 Rainbird 18 Trad 16m
6 Blue Eyed Lizard

The line of bolts up the arching wall left of 'Scurvy'.

FFA: Johan Sylvain & Kyle Dunshire

FA: Glenn Jones

27 Sport 7
7 Scurvy 11 Trad 20m

1.2.6. T-Shirt Gully 7 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -35.091612, 150.800371

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Sweat Shirt

Follows the flaking ramp left of 'Boardshorts'.

FA: Ivan Valenta & Robert Dun, 2002

6 Trad 10m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 Boardshorts

The twin cracks 2m left of the corner, 'Polo Shirt'.

FA: Bob McMillan & Glenn Jones, 1986

11 Trad 10m
3 Polo Shirt

The obvious corner.

FA: Ivan Valenta & Robert Dun, 2002

10 Trad 10m
4 Thongs

The arete left of 'T-shirt'.

FA: Glenn Jones & Bob McMillan, 1986

10 Trad 10m
5 T-shirt

The obvious large diagonal crack on the western side of 'T-shirt Gully'

Start: From the large ledge at the base of the crack.

FA: Bob McMillan & Glenn Jones, 1986

7 Trad 10m
6 Flanny

The wide corner crack on the right side of 'T-shirt'.

FA: Robert Dun & Ivan Valenta, 2002

12 Trad 10m
7 Hawaiian Shirt

Bridges up between the big blocks on the west side of T Shirt Gully. Start up the south side of the blocks and step left when it becomes too wide to bridge.

FA: Ivan Valenta & Robert Dun, 2002

8 Trad 10m

1.3. Bayside 122 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad climbing, Sport climbing and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: -35.092794, 150.801629

description

The upper tier.

© (koala)

approach

Extends north west (inshore) from the lighthouse enclosure.

© (koala)

1.3.1. Flotsam Area 13 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -35.092055, 150.800552

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Superstylin

Underneath the big cave before you hit 'T-shirt Gully'. Not obvious at first.

25 Sport 12m
2 Flotsam

Clean hand crack on the east side of T Shirt 'Gully' - on the orange wall right of the huge jutting roof. Abseil to small ledge to avoid the sand at its base.

FA: Bob McMillan & Ian Brown, 2000

10 Trad 6m
3 Amusement Value 18 Trad 10m
4 Lazy Lobsters

The arête next to Amusement Value. Start up amusement value until small ledge. Step right and continue up the arête passing 4 bolts. Belay bolt at top. The start has some poor rock.

FA: Ivan Valenta / Robert Dun

15 Sport 10m
5 Playful Penguins

The steep wall between Wobbegong Wobbles and the arête. Up past 3 bolts. There is a belay bolt at the top.

FA: Ivan Valenta / Robert Dun

18 Sport 10m
6 Wobbegong Wobbles 16 Trad 10m
7 Hammerhead 17 Trad 10m
8 Jaws II

1 Carrot bolt at the top and can use a rock further behind as another point in anchor. Wide corner crack on right.

17 Trad 10m
9 Batten The Hatches

1 FH and 3 rings up overhanging wall L of Cut And Thrust. Cams 0.4 to #3 useful.

24 Mixed trad 10m, 4
10 Cut and Thrust 18 Trad 10m
11 Cripple Crack 15 Trad 10m
12 Seafood Special

The broken cracks in the slabby wall 2m right of Cripple Crack. Sandy rock.

FA: Ivan Valenta / Jane Montgomery / Robert Dun

12 Trad 10m
13 Desparete

The short arête between Lemon Sorbet and Face De Rat. Good for a photo. Rap down to a 2 carrot bolt belay on foot ledge. Climb the balancy arête passing 3 ring bolts. There is a belay carrot bolt at the top.

FA: Robert Dun / Ivan Valenta

22 Sport 10m

1.3.2. Lemon Sorbet Area 8 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -35.092381, 150.800955

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Smoked Tuna

The arête of the Face De Rat wall. Rap down to a 2 carrot bolt belay on foot ledge (if you traverse right from this belay you can also climb the crack part of Psychic Aberration). Climb the arête and wall with medium cam breaks and wires. There is a belay carrot bolt at the top.

FA: Robert Dun / Ivan Valenta / Jane Montgomery

17 Trad 20m
2 Psychic Aberration 16 Trad 35m
3 Face de Rat 20 Trad 35m
4 Cerendipity 22 Trad 20m
5 Lemon Sorbet 19 Trad 20m
6 Chocolate Gelato

Sandy but good rock. Start on the protruding ledge at the lowest FH.

FA: Greg James

18 Mixed trad 12m, 2
7 Vomitorium

Good rock and protection. The second wide crack in the cliff top east of Lemon Sorbet. Start from the small ledge 12m down,

FA: Robert Dun & Paul Werry, 2009

15 Trad 12m
8 Captain Potato to the Rescue

Well protected. The overhanging right curving crack. Start just under the rooflet.

FA: Robert Dun & Paul Werry, 2009

18 Trad 12m

1.3.3. Bluebeard Area 17 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -35.092603, 150.801296

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 E=Mc2

Rap to a hanging belay off bolts, comfy harness required... Climb back up on the holds you can see but actually are not there!! Stella position to overcome any exposure problems

FA: Rick Phillips & Will Watkins, 28 Dec 2012

21 Sport 18m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 Lithium

A pumpy little climb with outrageous exposure which is probably a bit hard for the grade.

A hard start straight off the anchors up past a range of slopy, pumpy pockets. Take a range of large cams - from #1 to #4 Camalots

FA: Greg James & Steve Burns, 1992

18 Trad 10m
3 Wallace & Grommet

Rap down the corner to the double rings and traverse right to the orange wall and up some of the best rock at the point

FA: Rick Phillips & Will Watkins, 29 Dec 2012

23 Sport 18m
4 Hungry Heart 19 Trad 42m
5 Sticky Moments 26 Sport 20m
6 The Jaws of Death

Diagonally up and right from belay to the pod. Over block and into wideness. Easy to protect if you have big gear.

FA: Tom Williams & Ian Brown (19 M0), 1988

FFA: Robert Dun & Carl Jagusch, 2003

20 Trad 20m
7 Itchy and Scratchy 25 Sport 25m
8 Things that go Pop

Straight up from the belay.

FA: Greg James, Adrian Kladnig & Andy, 1992

26 Sport 25m
9 Emotional Hooligan

Up to the horizontal break, then traverse diagonally right to the arete and up.

FA: Greg James & Adrian Kladnig, 1992

25 Sport 25m
10 Bluebeard 17 Trad 35m
11 Snorkel 15 Trad 40m
12 Sea Legs 12 Trad 10m
13 Lobster Legs 7 Trad 6m
14 Boiled Lobster 10 Trad 6m
15 Lobster Pot 7 Trad 6m
16 Peabody 20 Trad 8m
17 Mixed Platter 7 Trad 15m

1.3.4. The Yardarm 9 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -35.092695, 150.801511

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Polite Chatter

Up the open corner crack at the left hand end of the wall.

FA: Ivan Valenta & Jane Montgomery, 2003

7 Trad 10m
2 Ground Swell

FA: Peter Blunt & Ian Brown, 1986

16 Trad 20m
3 Superstar Leo 15 Trad 15m
4 Sympatico

FA: Ian Brown & Peter Blunt, 1987

16 Trad 20m
5 Sympatico Piker's Variant

Obviously easier even if the rope drag sucks.

FA: Ian Brown & Peter Blunt, 1986

16 Trad 20m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 Bombs Away 16 Trad 35m
7 Over the Yardarm

Up to the ledge then head left to the arete and enjoy the exposure.

FA: Ian Brown & Peter Blunt, 1986

14 Trad 30m
8 Urban Spaceman

Up 'Dracophyllum Corner' to ledge then move left and straight up wall.

FA: Peter Blunt, Ian Brown & Ian Charles, 1986

14 Trad 27m
9 Dracophyllum Corner

Blast up the obvious corner past a bit of choss, loose rocks and well, some Dracophyllum plants!

FA: Ian Brown & Bob McMillan, 1987

9 Trad 30m

1.3.5. Hello Dolly Wall 15 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -35.092862, 150.801735

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Reach around

Start up Dry Reaching and once you pull the lip trend left, following the fixed hangers.

FA: Rick Phillips & Will Watkins, 2012

20 Sport 27m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 Dry Reaching

Start at the halfway ledge between DC and CA. Climb through roof and then up the wall.

FA: Greg James & Bede Harrington

20 Mixed trad 30m, 3
3 Cast Adrift

in the middle of wall you rap down 5 mtrs right of over the yard arm slab, thru roof (crux) rest in middle of easier climbing on cams and bolts to a tough finish

FA: Rod Young & Carlie Happ, 1998

22 Trad 30m
4 Areolas Ahoy

Not a new route has been done a millenium ago ! and also a link up with no real new climbing

FA: Rene Provis, May 2015

19 Trad 30m
5 Snickers Ahoy

Up to thin, hard finish at top.

FA: Rod Young

24 Sport 30m
6 Aeolus

FA: Ian Brown & Peter Blunt, 1985

15 Trad 30m
7 Farewell Angelina 18 Trad 36m
8 Hello Dolly

Follow the ring bolts.

FA: Rod Young & Sue Young, 1998

18 Sport 30m, 9
9 Gasping for Breath 17 Trad 30m
10 Lost in Choss 18 Trad 30m, 2
11 Avoiding Flora

FA: Roy Fryer, Werner Steyer & Bob McMillan, 1988

15 Trad 25m
12 Double Digit Inflammation

Mono action near the top!

FA: Ivan Valenta & Vince Valenta

24 Trad 25m
13 Landlubber

FA: Peter Blunt & Ian Brown, 1986

17 Trad 25m
14 Midnight Oil 18 Trad 30m
15 Starboard Tack

Climb the 'Landlubber' crack for 7m, moving right below the small roof. Climb over or around the flake and follow the rightwards groove to the top.

Start: As for 'Landlubber'

FA: Peter Blunt & Ian Brown, 1986

15 Trad 30m

1.3.6. The Deeps Area 14 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -35.093079, 150.801972

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Scarier than Bronte 21 Trad 35m
2 Make America Great Again

Rap off the three rings to a hanging belay off 2 rings... Good gear and and 2 bolts lead to a small section of choss you can miss by moving left to another bolt over the mini roof... Cams in the horizontals to the top... Take double rack of cams and medium nuts...

FA: Rick Phillips & Jason Lammers

17 Mixed trad 28m, 5
3 Against the Wind 18 Trad 35m
4 Rohanda
  1. 25m (16)

  2. 15m (16)

FA: Peter Blunt & Ian Brown, 1985

16 Trad 40m, 2
5 Bushido 19 Trad 30m
6 Ricks route

Lower cliff, rap of hex bolts to small ledge. Up middle of wall following ring bolts

21 Sport 25m
7 Banksia Corner 13 Trad 40m
8 Stormfront 16 Trad 15m
9 The Deeps Direct Finish 16 Trad 21m
10 The Deeps 19 Trad 25m
11 Elspeth 14 Trad 12m
12 First Mate 13 Trad 12m
13 Steel City Blues 9 Trad 12m
14 Beebop 16 Trad 12m

1.3.7. Werner Burner Area 17 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -35.093281, 150.802282

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Piper Corner 12 Trad 30m
2 The Boo Sensation 21 Trad 30m
3 The Gap of Rohan

Climb the undercut nose on reasonable pro - mainly cams. At 10m from the top pro thins. Take cams to 3.5 and tricams. This was named after the movie, NOT the first assensionists.

FA: Rohan Kilham & Rob Nicol

18 Trad 30m
4 Piper at the Gates of Dawn 18 Trad 35m
5 Heat Wave

FA: Robert Dun & Werner Steyer, 2006

18 Mixed trad 15m, 2
6 Whistle Blower Direct Start

FA: Werner Steyer & Robert Dun, 2005

15 Trad 20m
7 Hornblower 15 Trad 40m
8 Blown Away

A more direct finish to the second pitch of 'Hornblower'. Head up the easy ramp and climb the first crack instead of the second.

FA: Ivan Valenta & Robert Dun, 2002

15 Trad 5m
9 Whistle Blower

The face left of Blown Horn. Locate the bolts at the top and rap down to the big belay ledge at the start of Hornblower's second pitch. Either clip the first bolt on the way down, or set up a belay in the horizontal break using cams (around size ½-2). Left and up past 4 ring bolts.

FA: Robert Dun / Ivan Valenta

21 Sport 10m
10 Blown Horn 18 Trad 35m
11 Social Seamen

FA: Ivan Valenta & Robert Dun, 2008

19 Trad 12m
12 Horn Blown 18 Trad 30m
13 Werner Burner

Ascends the face right of Horn Blown. There is a diagonal crack on the cliff top right of a small bush. This is Horn Blown. Locate 2 carrot bolts at the top and rap down Horn Blown to a ledge. The wall is overhanging so clip a couple of the bolts on the way down to avoid being stranded in space. There is a 2 carrot bolt belay at the ledge. Left and up past 7 ring bolts. The bolts can be supplemented with cams.

FA: Ivan Valenta & Robert Dun

21 Sport 25m, 7
14 Welcome to the Asylum

Start off ledge and climb steeply up jugs and some realy cool moves. Top out and belay from two carrot bolts.

FA: Will Watkins & Tom Benefer, 16 Dec 2012

22 Sport 20m, 9
15 Boat People

The bolt line right of Werner Berner. Absail in to the recessed ledge off two carrot bolts clipping the last two draws to get to the ledge. Two ring bolt belay. Climb powerfully on good holds off the ledge onto a pumpy overhanging face. Overcome a couple of tricky sections to finish with the crux passing the last bolt.

FA: Will Watkins & Rick fillips, 2 Dec 2012

22 Sport 20m, 8
16 Trumpeter

The major notch between Cannon Fodder and Horn Blown. Rap from 2 carrot bolts (bolts are to the left of the notch) to a large hidden ledge 10m down. Up the corner / chimney to the top. Good cam protection.

FA: Robert Dun / Ivan Valenta

14 Trad 10m
17 Cannon Fodder 16 Trad 40m

1.3.8. Gushing Blood Area 19 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -35.093545, 150.802762

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

The next 7 routes start on a ledge 12m down.

1 Bandit Boy

Pleasant bolted wall and arete . Start off the left hand end of the split membranes ledge. Airy and exposed moves up the wall and arete past 6 ring bolts. Belay bolts at top.

FA: Will Watkins & Jake Noblet, 2 Jan 2013

21 Sport 12m, 6
2 Give Yourself a Kiss 16 Trad 10m
3 Joyboys 20 Trad 12m
4 Sandblaster 22 Sport 12m
5 Split Membranes

Pumpy climbing with a mono pocket at top which Greg split his finger on the FA.

FA: Greg James & Adrian Kladnig, 1992

24 Mixed trad 15m, 3
6 Gushing Blood

FA: Ian Brown & Bob McMillan (19 M1), 1988

FFA: Robert Dun & Ivan Valenta, 2002

21 Trad 12m
7 Micron 15 Trad 10m
8 Smash and Grab 16 Trad 20m
9 Massacre at the Discotheque

Rap down to hanging belay with a bolt and cams. Up the wall on pockets and flakes.

FA: Greg James, Adrian Kladnig & Captain Smeg, 1992

19 Trad 20m
10 Bird of Omen 17 Trad 42m
11 Bird of Prey

Abseil down to double ring belay. The climbing gets harder as you progress..

FA: Rick Phillips & Will Watkins, 29 Dec 2012

20 Sport 18m
12 Stan The Stingray Man 16 Trad 15m
13 Medusa 20 Sport 15m
14 Mermaid 20 Sport 15m
15 Screaming Banshee / Jane's Project 18 Sport 15m
16 Great White Shark 16 Trad 40m
17 Body Noises 15 Trad 30m
18 Under The Fence

Ascends the short face half a metre right of the western fence. Abseil down either side of the fence to a sloping ledge, use the abseil rope as a belay. The line goes up the flake passing a bolt at the top.

FA: Werner Steyer / Robert Dun, 2003

19 Trad 5m
19 Search of the Perfect Grogan

At the time the lighthouse keeper used this as his personal garbage dump.

FA: Adrian Kladnig & Greg James, 1992

4 Trad 7m

1.3.9. Bayside Lower 10 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -35.093559, 150.802428

description

Hidden below the most popular section of Point Perp (The Lighthouse sector) is a much larger cliffline, averaging about 50m high. The rock quality is generally excellent water polished orange rock - but it does suffer from greasy conditions if there is no wind.

approach

You will need to tie two ropes together to reach the sea level - its about 90m from the top.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Gap of Rohan

FA: Rohan Kilham & Rob Nicol

18 Unknown 30m
2 Gobbling Gannets 18 Trad 52m
3 Coloured Brains 20 Trad 50m
4 The Sea, The Sea 16 Trad 55m
5 Stem the Tide 18 Trad 50m
6 Tsunami 16 Trad 65m
7 Columbus 18 Trad 55m
8 Scouting for Boys 15 Trad 55m
9 Riders on the Storm 19 Trad 60m
10 Buccaneer 16 Trad 47m

1.4. The Lighthouse 108 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad climbing, Sport climbing and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: -35.094135, 150.804340

description

Routes are described in order from bayside to the seaside - that is, from right to left when looking out to sea.

© (koala)

1.4.1. Superliner Area 15 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -35.093947, 150.803304

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Superliner

The first arête right of the lighthouse fence. Excellent protection. Find the 2 carrot bolts at the top and abseil down the arete to Ring bolt belay. Climb up passing 10 Ring bolts , a couple of cams and a thread (120cm sling handy).

There is a lower start only 5m lower for this bring x5 carrots

FA: 2003

19 Mixed trad 35m, 7
2 Two Ounces 15 Trad 30m
3 Anchovy Express

Up groove passing carrots.

Nice wall take lots of small cams and wires.

Double carrot belay

Start: On halfway ledge as for Two Ounces

FA: G. James & P. Bridges, 1998

19 Mixed trad 30m, 7
4 Guiding Light

Many cams!

Up white corner grove to block, step right. Continue crack to the right end of a big roof. Step right and up to break, up then left to big orange headwall.

Start: Same as for banksia and coleridge.

FA: Ian Brown & Tom Williams, 1988

20 Trad 40m
5 Coleridge

Start: Start on same ledge.

FA: Peter Blunt & Ian Brown, 1988

16 Trad 40m
6 Sunset Strip

The broken twin cracks 2m left of Hollywood Boulevard. Rap down the corner to the grassy ledge. Step left and up the cracks with good protection.

FA: Ivan Valenta / Robert Dun

17 Trad 20m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
7 Hollywood Boulevard

There is a west facing orange wall about 10m right of Coleridge. Hollywood Boulevard is the corner crack at the left side of this wall. Rap down the corner to the grassy ledge. Up the corner cracks.

FA: 2002

16 Trad 20m
8 Battle Cruiser

A nice clean crack with excellent easy to place protection. The next corner crack right of Hollywood Boulevard. Rap down the corner to the grassy ledge (as per Hollywood Boulevard). Walk around the corner (stay on the abseil rope) and set up a belay. Up the corner crack.

FA: Robert Dun / Ivan Valenta

20 Trad 15m
9 whale watching cruise

The wide crack just right of battle cruiser. A #5 or #6 wouldn't be missed for the top half

FA: Mark Feeney, 10 Jul 2020

18 Trad 14m
10 Seahawk (Top Pitch only)

The top pitch of Seahawk from DBB. Carefully up the brittle undercut start then march up and slightly right through band after band of different rock types. This pitch is quite overhung but juggy most of the way.

FA: Neil Monteith & Matt Brooks, 2013

20 Sport 35m, 13
11 All Guns Blazing (Top pitch only)

Undercut start to (shock horror) short bolted corner crack. When this ends pick your way up pumpy pocketed headwall until blistering crimpy crux at smooth orange section. Finish up long section of large sandy pockets. Retire. 13 bolts.

FA: Neil Monteith & Matt Brooks, 2013

23 Sport 36m, 13
12 Destroyer

Atmospheric. The next crack left of Voyager. Rap down Voyager and set up a belay on the step about 1m below the main ledge, use the rap rope to backup the belay. Traverse left along the break and up the crack. Good protection once you are in the crack.

FA: 2003

21 Trad 15m
13 Captagon

A long pumper on pockets. A touch overhung. It's the ringbolted route squeezed between Destroyer and Voyager, but starting much lower on tiny 'ledge' with ring bolts.

Set by Neil Monteith, 26 Oct 2014

FA: Monty Curtis & ben lane, 19 Mar 2016

22 Sport 28m, 11
14 Voyager

On February 10th 1964 the navy destroyer Voyager was sunk off Jervis Bay when it collided with the aircraft carrier Melbourne. 82 men died in the incident. Left of Centurion is a section of vertical plates jutting out. After this section there is a small embayment. Left of the embayment there are a couple of cracks in the cliff top. The Right crack is Voyager and the Left crack is Destroyer. Find the 2 carrot bolts at the top and Abseil down the line to a good ledge in an embayment. Up the left corner crack.

FA: Robert Dun / James Hardy

16 Trad 15m
15 James Hardy 1000

Put up the weekend of the Bathurst car races, and named accordingly to annoy James. Abseil down and set up a belay in Voyager. Step right and head up the right corner crack. The crack is fused at the top.

FA: 2002

19 Trad 15m

1.4.2. Centurion Area 12 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -35.094138, 150.803659

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Typhoon

Left of Centurion is a section of vertical plates jutting out. After this section there is a small embayment. Typhoon is the crack in the right corner of the embayment. Abseil down the middle of the embayment until you get to a small ledge with a 2 carrot bolt belay. The belay is at the base of a seam in the slabby wall. Start up the slabby wall past 2 carrot bolts trending right. Then up the right corner crack.

FA: Ivan Valenta & Robert Dun, 2003

18 Trad 15m
2 Rapt in Rubber

Exposed - Traverse left near arete past bolt, up past more.

Start: Same belay as 'Centurion'

FA: Greg James & Steve Burns, 2000

21 Mixed trad 15m, 3
3 Centurion

Left hand edge of ledge, up corner. Don't get drawn into the overhang. Instead, stay on the left face to place pro before the crux move.

Start: Same start as RIR

FA: Ian Brown & Bob McMillan, 1989

16 Trad 10m
4 Plunging Testicles

Named after the huge Testicle shaped boulder that Greg and Steve trundled off the ledge on the first ascent.

Up wall past bolts and small cam placements on sharp holds.

Start: 'Centurion' ledge

FA: Greg James, Steve Burns & Escaba, 2000

25 Mixed trad 10m, 2
5 Impact Zone

Up the corner crack.

Same belay as WCF.

15 Trad 10m
6 Women and Children First

Start on the Centurian Ledge as per Impact Zone. Step right onto a horizontal crack over the awesome exposure above the rocks below. One solid move then up the easy ramp to a two carrot belay at the top.

FA: Ian Brown & Bob McMillan, 1989

15 Trad 12m
7 Delusions of Grandeur

Overhung and very very exposed - even for Point Perp standards. This is a mixed route - only 3 bolts in the lower half - the rest is cams in horizontals - try not to pump off placing them! Rap in down the finish corner of Women and Children first - clipping into gear/bolts on the way down to stay connected to the rock to ridiculous hanging belay on lip of roof. Climb up and right through short chossy section to rooflet, over this (reachy) then straight up face and steepness above. Cams from finger to wide fist size required.

FA: Neil Monteith, May 2013

24 Mixed trad 20m, 3
8 Titan I Am

The Point's first route bolted with titanium. Rap from carrots to reach semi-hanging belay with foot ledge (double rings). Long, pumpy and well-protected climbing with 10 bolts and one or two obvious medium cam placements, or run it out (safe).

FA: Lee Cujes & Sam Cujes, 1 Apr 2013

22 Mixed trad 25m, 10
9 Oarsome

Traverse left off ledge to hanging crack, great gear.

17 Trad 20m
10 Australia's Hardest Climb

Great steep climbing with some tough to read moves. Rap in to find two hard-to-see carrots placed directly into a horizontal ledge. Slabby start on polished rock (cams in horizontals) to high BR when the rock steepens. Continue up overhung face above past FH and a a couple more BRs.

21 Mixed trad 15m, 4
11 Whale order bride

Rap to same belay carrots as AHC.

Start same as AHC with gear, then rings on headwall.

FA: Will Watkins & Nick le Frenchie, 26 Oct 2012

20 Mixed trad 15m, 4
12 Wolf

Steep wall 2m left of arete with not a lot of pro.

Start: Left side of arete, exposed stance.

FA: Roy Fryer, Owen McMahon & Cerin McMillan., 2000

18 Trad 15m

1.4.3. Red Riding Hood Area 18 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -35.094188, 150.804075

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Little Red Riding Hood Direct

A much longer and better version of the original - starting from double bolt belay on small ledge on right side of arete, below the Levee Breaks terrace. Left and up quartz infused face (lots of FHs) to eventually join into original route at 15m at crack section (medium cams). Finish up original arete past bolt and cams.

FA: Rick Phillips, 2013

17 Mixed trad 30m, 8
2 Little Red Riding Hood

Traverse out left and up, aiming for the nose. Up this to the top. There are a few bolt hangers past the nose to get you past the fairly blank section on the arete. Double carrot belay on top.

Start: Rap into the embankment just to the right of the lowest point in the lighthouse fence.

FA: Steve Burns, Greg James & Bede Harrington, 2000

17 Mixed trad 25m, 1
3 Greg's Crack

The major crack line between When the Levee Breaks and Red Riding Hood. Start as for Red Riding Hood. Follow the hairline crack up the wall until the ledge. Climb the short pedestal and move right into the crack. Up the crack passing two bolts (on the right of the crack).

FA: Greg James & Adrian Kladnig

20 Mixed trad 20m, 2
4 Czech Mate 19 Trad 20m
5 When the Levee Breaks

Start just right of LRRH. Up the line with four FHs and pockets for cams or just run it out.

FA: Greg James, 2000

19 Mixed trad 20m, 4
6 Big Bad Wolf

Starts under the line of rings 3m left of "When the Levee Breaks". Hard crux and will be desperate if you are a little short.

FA: Will Watkins, 26 Oct 2012

23 Sport 20m
7 Spiders And Space Cadets

The corner between Proudly Penguin and When the Levee Breaks. Bridge up the corner and chimney with good protection. Take a sling for the big thread near the top.

FA: Ivan Valenta / Jane Montgomery

15 Trad 20m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
8 Proudly Penguin

Start: 2m right of corner. Up wall to flake then bolt to top. Watch the runouts!

FA: Neil Plant & Robyn Cleland, 2000

21 R Mixed trad 20m, 1
9 Destructive Wombats

Start: 4m right of corner. Straight up the wall past many cam placements and a BOMBER sling at half height!

21 Mixed trad 20m, 2
10 Struggle Streets

Thin flake with 3 FHs right of Destructive Wombats.

21 Trad 25m
11 Trade Wind

The broken crack line left of Fat Man's Misery and R of Destructive Wombats. Rap down to the big ledge. Climb the right curving flake to a ledge. Either belay on the ledge or continue up the crack in one pitch.

FA: Ivan Valenta & Robert Dun

18 Trad 15m
12 Fat Man's Misery

The wide crack / chimney left of the Krill a Whale buttress. Rap down to the big ledge. Climb the right curving flake to a ledge. Either belay on the ledge or continue up the crack in one pitch.

FA: Robert Dun / Ivan Valenta

16 Trad 15m
13 Krill-A-Whale

Start down to the left of the arete.

18 Mixed trad 30m, 2
14 Hooray for Hippies

Best to rap off carrots for Sieze The Day access, and stop on good size ledge (enough for 3) belay off two rings, start looks intimidating but its fairly easy crux at mid height and the very top

FA: Rick, Paul, Gilles, Big G & Jonesy, 21 Oct 2012

18 Sport 28m
15 The Poseidon Adventure

The wide crack / chimney right of the Krill-a-Whale buttress. Rap down the line to a 2 carrot bolt belay at a small ledge halfway down the left wall. Up the line passing two carrot bolts on the wide part at the top.

FA: Ivan Valenta & Robert Dun

15 Trad 15m
16 Sieze The Day

Rap off carrots, clipping some bolts on way down otherwise your stranded in space. Belay off double rings at small stance..Climbs switches on at halfway mark, if you don't like mono's you won't like this

FA: Rick Phillips & Paul Devine, 21 Oct 2012

23 Sport 28m
17 The Brown Streak

FA: Greg James

22 Trad
18 Schrapnel In My Backyard

Line of ringbolts left of the Mister Bean arete. Abseil down to small ledge with 2 glue-in carrot bolts as belay. Up past 4 rings and a mid-sized cam.

FA: Lee Cujes, Erik Smits & Chris Trengove, 2007

21 Mixed trad 15m, 4

1.4.4. Liquid Insanity Area 15 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -35.094224, 150.804487

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Mister Bean

Clip first bolt of FL, then make way to arete passing another bolt. Follow arete passing 8 more bolts with one hidden around the left. Apparently grade 26 if you don't use the holds on the left of arete (but given one of the bolts is around there... .

FA: Greg James, 1992

24 Sport 30m, 10
2 Fuzzy Logic

Climb off the block staying out of the corner passing a few FHs and many medium cams. Is slightly run out at the top, but is easier and you can put in some big cams if you really want.

Start: Rap in to an exposed triangular block with 2 FH for belay.

FA: Greg James, 1992

23 Trad 25m
3 Neptune

Appears to have been rebolted. Wide corner crack with carrots as well as some gear & thread opportunities.

FA: Werner Steyer / Robert Dun / Kate Wright, 2004

17 Mixed trad 15m, 4
4 Grandmas ta Flash

Ring bolts a couple of metres right of Neptune.

22 Sport 15m
5 Unorthodox Liasons

Climb direct up the wall to the left of the arete past 5 ring bolts. Challenging moves low down leads to pleasant upper section.

FA: Will Watkins & Rick fatty fillips, 10 Nov 2012

23 Sport 15m, 5
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 Liquid Insanity Direct Finish

Start: As for 'Liquid Insanity' but dont traverse back right, continue up arete.

FA: Greg James & Adrian Kladnig, 1992

24 Mixed trad 35m, 5
7 Liquid Insanity

Up corner, then left passing bolts to arete, up arete with cams. Near top, traverse back right and up final bolt line.

Start: Start as for 'Liquid Daze'

FA: Greg James & Adrian Kladnig, 1992

23 Mixed trad 35m, 4
8 Liquid Daze

Up small corner (bolt) to wall, then tending right slightly past more bolts.

Named in honour of the second who had a hangover and had recently been listening to a Philip Glass song "Liquid Days"

FA: Greg James & Adrian Kladnig, 1992

23 Mixed trad 30m, 4
9 Fight or Flight

Line of carrot bolts to the right of Liquid Daze. Great moves on great rock. Starts off the vegitated block ledge.

FA: R.Dunn & Matt Scoles, 2006

22 Sport 15m
10 Melody Lines 19 Trad 15m
11 Test

FA: Phil Georgeff, 1998

15 Trad 15m
12 Whistle 16 Trad 15m
13 Grey

FA: Phil Georgeff, 1988

16 Trad 15m
14 Just Technical 22 Sport 15m
15 We Are Amphibious

Ring-bolted arete with awesome pockets.

FA: Neil Monteith & Chris Trengove, 2007

22 Sport 10m

1.4.5. Rex Hunt's Area 15 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad climbing, Sport climbing and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: -35.094138, 150.804861

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Rex Hunt's Love Child

A super classic - and probably the best route around this grade on the sea cliffs. Do it!

Start: Abseil in from carrot and cams for backup. Start on the left hand side of the wall below the rings. Take some trad gear as well to supplement the bolts if you are not confident at the grade. That said, hanging around to place gear might mean you miss the tick! Falls are safe from the crux.

Warning: As of 4/1/18, the fixed hanger at the anchor is loose and needs replacing.

FA: Paul Greenland, 1992

21 Sport 30m, 10
2 Northern Exposure

Start: 2m right of RHLC. Straight up the wall - small to medium cams help in the middle.

FA: Tony Burnell, 1992

22 Mixed trad 30m, 6
3 Bad Luck Streak

Start: At the thin crack. Climb the thin crack until it ends at half height, step left to continue crack and up into the jams to top.

FA: Joe Lynch Mike Law-Smith Phil Georgeff, 1988

20 Trad 30m
4 Moving Targets 18 Trad 30m
5 Eviction Order

Low in the grade. Great climbing past 3 fixed brackets to a hard techy finnish on edges and monos.

26 Mixed trad 15m, 3
6 Sticky Date Pudding 22 Trad 15m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
7 Froffwidth 19 Trad 15m
8 Two Minute Hate

Short punchy face. This is NOT a three star route. Maybe one star.

23 Sport 12m, 5
9 Kalani

Rap in off ring and carrot. Down to double ring belay. Moderate move past 1st ring and punchy crux near top. Enjoy

FA: Tim Booth, 20 May 2018

26 Sport 13m, 8
10 Real Men Have Man Boobs

FFA: R Sonnerdale

19 Trad 15m
11 Rani

Abseil off double rings to ledge. Double ring belay. Pre clip 1st ring as little spicy move down low. Cruise to mid height for punchy crux then go for ze sumeet

FA: Tim Booth, 11 Jun 2018

27 Sport 10m, 8
12 Wifey's cookin one

Rap in off double rings to double rings at ledge. Up then punchy second half with a big chuck to a pocket to finish

FA: Tim Booth, 12 Nov 2017

24 Sport 10m, 8
13 American Bikini Jam 24 Trad 12m
14 (New route directly up arete)

Not in current guidebook but it was there last time I was. --Lee.

Unknown 12m
15 Natural Selection 19 Trad 20m

1.4.6. Peristalsis Area 13 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad climbing, Sport climbing and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: -35.094079, 150.805297

approach

Actually outside the lighthouse enclosure, so no need to jump any fences.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Rubble Without a Cause

This is the corner below where the lighthouse enclosure fence meets the cliff top.

18 Trad 40m
2 Ivan's Milat

Bolted seam.

24 SportProject
3 Zaks piker

FFA: Tim Booth

25 Sport
4 (Zac's Project)

2m R.

SportProject
5 Lawson, git the Dawg

FA: Tim Booth

27/28 Sport 10
6 High Society

Impressive steep arete, overhung on both sides. Bolts still good as at 2020. Fantastic easier climbing to a stout final section.

FA: Zac Vertress, 2006

28 Sport 25m
7 Peasants Direct

Abseil down to double bolt belay. Pre or stick clip 1st bolt. Follow the arete the whole way up

FA: Tim Booth, 1 Jan

28/29 Unknown 25m, 12
8 Sex, Bolts and Ice Cream 25 Trad 40m
9 Bung Eye

The bolts left of Bondage and Discipline.

FA: Zac Vertrees, 2006

26 Mixed trad 20m, 1
10 Bondage and Discipline

FA: Greg James & Mark Davies

22 Mixed trad 40m, 3
11 Peristalsis 16 Trad 40m
12 Mind the Gap

Great position and cool climbing.

22 Mixed trad 40m, 3
13 The Whip

Start as for 'Mind the Gap'. After placing cam in big pocket, traverse right past one ring bolt to the arete (cams in pocket and in flakes- make sure you have a #2 C3 to protect final crux). Enjoy the view then punch up the arete. Great exposure!

FA: George Broadfoot, 22 Apr 2013

25 Mixed trad 25m, 3

1.4.7. Lighthouse Lower 20 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -35.094261, 150.805079

1.4.7.1. Whalesong Buttress 4 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Trad climbing and Sport climbing
1.4.7.2. Mariner Buttress 5 routes in Area
Summary:
All Trad climbing
1.4.7.3. Atmosfear Wall 6 routes in Sector
Summary:
Sport climbing and Trad climbing

description

This massive overhung wall starts immediately right of the route Storm-Blast and contains an assortment of long sustained sport and mixed routes. Pitch lengths are generally 50m+. Rock quality is generally excellent but the rock does get greasy if there is no wind. It can also suffer from seepage after heavy rain. As with anywhere on the Lower Cliffs, bring ascenders in case you can't climb out!

approach

Fix a 100m rope down the cliff from the top of All Guns Blazing (west of Destroyer).

1.4.7.4. Bayside Lower East 5 routes in Area
Summary:
All Trad climbing

1.5. Seaside 111 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad climbing, Sport climbing and Aid climbing

Lat / Long: -35.091608, 150.808464

1.5.1. Windjammer Wall 58 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -35.093821, 150.806189

descent notes

The most convenient spots to abseil in are from the 2x carrots at the top of 'Walk the Plank' or 'Man Overboard'. However there are lots of other double carrots scattered along the top of the crag above most routes.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

To reach the following route abseil in from the ring bolts at the top.

1 Mr Logistics

Awesome arete. Short, steep and sustained unlike many a point perp route.

Start next to 'Midnight Lightning' on left hand end of 'Ocean Boulevard'. Rap off rings at top of arete to small foot ledge. Use first ring and gear as belay. Take lots of 0.75 and 1 cams.

FA: Duncan Hunter, 2008

25 Mixed trad 15m, 4

The following routes can be reached by abseiling in from the carrots at the top of 'Beside the Seaside' to double ring bolts at the start of 'Beside the Seaside'. The ledge here is quite narrow and is not recommended for access to routes on the left hand end of Windjammer Wall.

Abseiling from the double ring bolts will take you to down to Seaside Lower to the start of 'She Sells Sea Shells'.

2 Aloha

Unpleasant. Start at extreme L end of Ocean Boulevard. Belay off some blocks at the bottom of the obvious buttress. L around the nose, then up, then L to longish ledge. Up middle of wall past flakes. Up corner, then huge flake on L wall. Finish up the crack on the L to avoid the top part of the flake (loose).

FFA: Peter Blunt & Ian Brown, 1986

19 Trad 30m
3 Beside the Seaside

First a trad route, never done. Then retrobolted and renamed. All but 2 bolts have been chopped by persons unknown in March 2013. Full trad rack now required! Starts at double ringbolt belay at the furthest you can safely walk left when on the Windjammer ledge.

FA: Peter Blunt & Ian Brown, 1985

15/16 Mixed trad 40m, 2

Shady End

Tucked away at the far left end of Ocean boulevard ledge are several shady routes. You can walk here from Grey Mist, but take a little care - the drop off below is bigger and easier here.

4 Midnight Lightning

Great wall route all gear bar one U-bolt. Start up the obvious flake in the lower wall a few metres left of Hot To Trot's line of rings. Comes complete with excellent arete crack finish.

FA: John Fantini & James Hoy, 1990

21 Mixed trad 30m, 1
5 Hot to Trot

Line of bolts left of the Montezuma corner, gaining in difficulty the higher you go. Stemming into Montezuma near the top is considered 'off-route'. Some climbers have complained that the middle bolts on this route are perilously close to Midnight Lightning.

FA: Rick Phillips & John Lattanzio, 1 Dec 2012

22 Sport 23m, 11
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 Montezuma

The corner. Interesting terrain, fairly sustained with good rock. Take lots of gear from hands upwards, hexes useful. Awkward gear belay in crack with large cams (Camalots #3-5).

FA: Ian Brown & Peter Blunt, 1985

18 Trad 30m
7 Sunset Boulevard

Shady, steep, all bolts and great face moves. Don't confuse this with Vertical Romance. Start up the corner as for Montezuma, then follow the rings on the right wall and through a small roof up high.

24 Sport 30m, 10
8 Vertical Romance

Ignore the print guidebook's zero star rating - this is a great route with good bolts and deserves a lot more ascents. Shady all day, overhanging, all bolts and crazy cool moves. The line of ringbolts that starts up the flake line 5m left of the arete of Turning Of The Tide.

FA: Duncan Hunter

25 Sport 30m, 11
9 Beef in Cider

The arête direct, starting on left side (just right of Vertical Romance). 5 U-bolts, optional 2&3 camalot, one U-bolt and then join into last three carrot bolts of Turning of the Tide. Pumpy! Use long runners on the carrots to avoid ropedrag.

FA: Monty Curtis, 18 Apr 2016

23 Sport 30m, 9

South Wall

The next routes are along the precision cut 30m high wall that gives Windjammer it's name. The left edge is the Turning of the Tide arete.

10 Turning Of The Tide

The left arete of Windjammer Wall. Incredible climbing up one the best aretes at Point Perp. Climb the arête and the face just to the right past lots of carrot bolts, supplemented by occasional medium sized cams. This was originally climbed onsight with no bolts (!) and was later "accidentally" retrobolted.

FA: Tony Barton, Joe Lynch, John Churchill & Mike Peck, 1988

22 Mixed trad 30m, 8
11 Barracouta

Start just right of Turning of the Tide. Up past short corner and numerous breaks (natural gear) to headwall with three carrot bolts and a fixed hanger. Seriously tricky up high. #3 and #4 cams are handy right at the start.

FFA: Andrew Bull & Tony Barton, 1990

24 Mixed trad 30m, 4
12 Blazing Jugs
  1. Start at base of TOTT and climb up 10m to a semi hanging belay, poor pro. 2) Traverse 30 m right to a RHF corner. 3) Traverse 30 m right and belay from J ledge/corner. 4) Reposition belay to arete 5m right. 5) Traverse trickely 25 m right, belay at MO. 6) traverse 10 m to arete. 7) Traverse 15m to the SAD V-groove. 8) 10 m finish up any route on the face (easiest goes at 18).

FFA: Peter Blunt & Ian Brown, 1985

18 Trad 130m, 8
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
13 Memorable Moves

Daunting and inspiring trad masterpiece. The first thin weakness through the upper headwall on the left side of the wall. Easily up left facing flake to start, then up juggy wall (not well protected) to final searing seam. Full trad rack from #5 cam to tiny wires. (Breaking a hold between about 5m and about 10m will probably result in hitting the deck, many people start up Icebird instead to skip the unprotected choss section. Good gear is available on the top half of the route). Starts 2m left of 'Icebird'.

FFA: John Fantini & Phil Georgeff, 1988

22 R Trad 30m
14 Icebird

The wide crack near the left side of the wall. A great line and a great climb. Up the jugs then the awkward wide crack.

FA: Peter Blunt & Ian Brown, 1984

19 Trad 30m
15 Susie now Settled

The face between 'Icebird' & 'Dirty Dancing' Moderate climbing about grade 21 till big break 6m from top. Put in lots of bomber gear and punch to top!

FA: Tim Booth, Jun 2015

26 Trad 25m
16 Dirty Dancing

Crack just right of Icebird, which gets thinner and harder as you get higher and pumpder. This was John's pick of the area.

FFA: John Fantini & Phil Georgeff, 1988

24 Trad 30m
17 Not All There

The line of carrots left of Windjammer that leads to 2 bolt lower off. Take many cams and a handful of brackets (it's mostly trad). The direct finish is 26 and is called Halfway House Extension (for some reason). The lower-off will twist the s#it out of your rope - would be nice to see it upgraded.

21 Trad 25m
18 Halfway House Extension / Not All There Extension

The one bolt extension to Not All There. Thin and techy.

26 Sport 22m, 7
19 Seamstress

Variant finish to Windjammer. Start up Windjammer, then avoid the wide crack by stepping left into the white marble seam. Very challenging trad climb both the climbing and protection.

FFA: Robert Dun & Matt Scholes (preplaced gear), 2009

26 Trad 30m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
20 Windjammer

The right one of a trio of cracks. Ensure you place lots of good gear in the first half as some of the rock is a bit suspect.

FA: Ian Brown & Peter Blunt, 1984

FFA: Ian Brown & Bob McMillan, 1988

19 Trad 30m
21 The Sublime and the Ridiculous

Follows the thin, right-sloping crack on the headwall R of Windjammer. Up suspect rock to the base of the crack. Follow the bolts below the slanting crack to the top. This route has been heavily retrobolted by Blowing in the Wind! (see the notes for the extension to that route)

FFA: Ant Phren, 1989

26 Mixed trad 30m, 3
22 Blowing In The Wind

The leftmost of a trio of easier sport routes in the center of Windjammer Wall which puts about 4 retrobolts and a loweroff anchor onto The Sublime and the Ridiculous.

FA: Rick Phillips & Will Watkins, 19 Nov 2012

21 Sport 20m, 10
23 Settle Down Damo / Blowing In The Wind Extension

Two bolt extension of Blowing In The Wind to the top. Have fun with it!

FA: Tim Booth, Mar 2014

26 Sport 30m, 2
24 Shooting The Breeze

The middle of the trio. Fantastic climb; very technical and pumpy, save some gas for the top. Ringbolts.

FA: Rick Phillips & Will Watkins, 17 Nov 2012

22 Sport 23m, 10
25 Shooting The Breeze Extension

Some nice holds on this one following the attractive seam. Up and R from the anchors past two more ringbolts and a cam.

26 Sport 25m, 2
26 Drunk And Disorderly

The right of the trio. Steeper than it looks with a deceptive crux near the top. Three carrots up a slab to start, then a couple of FH's, then ringbolts. A royal sampler.

FA: Gareth Downey & Rick Phillips

19 Sport 20m
27 Unleash ya Willy

4 bolts above DAD. Superb rock and thin technical climbing. Some of the best rock on the wall with small edges and pockets. Dedication to the vision of Will creating the line. With his Name and climbing hold company Unleashed : )

Set by will

FFA: Tim Booth

FA: Tim Booth, 2 Jul 2018

28 Sport 25m, 4
28 PaddleRock

Climb between drunk and disorderly and feeding frenzy, tuff move at 3rd bolt then make your way up to double rings. Last 6 meters is an open project. Enjoy:)

FA: Tim Booth, 10 Nov 2017

22 Sport 25m, 12
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
29 Feeding Frenzy

The R-leaning shallow flake in the headwall that is L of the main overlap (Liquid Lunch). Start just to the R of the centre of Windjammer Wall beneath the flake. Climb the easy lower part of the wall (bolt) to the flake, move L near the top to finish.

FFA: Giles Bradbury, 1989

26 Mixed trad 30m, 3
30 Liquid Lunch

The R-ward leaning major diagonal flake on the R side of Windjammer Wall. Start a coupe of metres R of Feeding Frenzy, about 10m below a small rooflet. Up, tending R to a U-bolt at beginning of flake, then follow the flake and crack diagonally R to the top.

FFA: Giles Bradbury

26 Mixed trad 30m, 1
31 Last Man Standing

The second line of rings left of Jaws' major corner. Five rings and several finger/hand sized cams to lower off anchors below the top of the cliff where the line joins Liquid Lunch. Connecting it into the top is a possibility at around grade 26 and has been attempted by Neil & others.

FA: Neil Monteith, 30 Mar 2013

23 Mixed trad 25m, 5
32 Hot Cross Buns

Sustained and well protected wall climbing with characteristic Point Perp buckets and horizontals. Starts 2m left of 'SS Minow' below thin crack. Face to start, then up juggy crack to unlikely wall and right leading flake. When the holds run out at 20m traverse right to join 'SS Minow' at its last BR and finish for that route. Bring a full rack with doubles in the finger/hand sizes plus a #4 camalot to protect the first 5m.

FFA: Neil Monteith

22 Mixed trad 20m, 1
33 SS Minow

Starts 5m left of the Jaws corner below the line of FHs. Up wall past three FHs then trad goodness until final climatic flake (BR). Single set of cams protects the rest. Finishes at left set of lower-offs about 4m short of the top of the wall. The single BR above is an open project.

FFA: Greg James, 2001

22 Mixed trad 25m, 4
34 Hate minnows

A link up for pikers. Do hate mail to last bolt, but instead head left to anchors on Ss Minnow, clipping bolt on way. Take a bolt plate.

22 Trad 20m
35 Hate Mail

Varied and sustained wall climbing up beautiful polished rock with the typical cruxy 'Windjammer' finish. Starts 1m left of 'Tenere' behind small tree and 2m right of 'SS Minow'. Five U-bolts and four or five good cam slots (fingers to hand size). Save a #2 Camalot for pocket in the finish moves. Lower-off anchor is 3m below the top of the cliff at large finish pocket.

FFA: Neil Monteith

24 Mixed trad 25m, 5
36 Tenere

A true line. Start in the corner as for Jaws. At the ledge climb the fiddly seam on the main (L) wall. Continue up the stunning crack to top. A #3 cam is usefull to protect last moves. Sling small tree and boulder for belay.

FA: Peter Blunt & Ian Brown, 1985

20 Trad 28m
37 Jaws

The obvious corner in the middle of the wall.

FFA: Peter Blunt & Ian Brown, 1984

19 Trad 32m
38 No Crack No Sin

Climb the face between 'Jaws' and 'Some Weird Sin'. Balance and exposed move low with tricky top section.

FA: Tim Booth, Jan 2015

22 Trad 25m
39 Jaws direct

Up slab right of corner, minimal gear. You can stay on slab until about 5m below top when step left to finish up jaws

FA: Ian brown

19 Trad 30m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

North Wall

The central arete of Windjammer is Some Weird Sin. The following routes are right of this.

40 Some Weird Sin

Start on the right-hand side of the middle arete of 'Windjammer Wall' - just right of Jaws. Up the wall and then arete passing bolts and cams. Move around to the R-side of the arete after clipping final bolt. Take lots of brackets.

FFA: Mike Moore & Greg James, 1998

23 Mixed trad 30m, 7
41 Red Shift

Traverse at half height from the arete of Some Weird Sin to the corner of Man Overboard.

Start: Up the initial small corner of Hungry Eyes, or continue on from Blazing Jugs.

18 Trad 35m
42 Hungry Eyes

Start on top of the block, at the small L-facing corner just right of Some Weird Sin. Up enjoyable jugs, passing a couple of small overlaps to base of crack. Up thin crack then into hand crack to finish.

FFA: John Fantini & Phil Georgeff, 1988

23 Trad 30m
43 The Omen

Great sport climbing on lovely orange rock. This is the ringbolted line right of Hungry Eyes. If you stay where the bolts are and don't sneak off right where it is easier then you don't share any climbing with Permissability. Either way the last few metres are the crux! To get the full tick, climb past the double bolt anchors for one more move to the large pocket and back-jump to the anchors.

FFA: Matt Brooks, 2013

Set by Simon Vaughan, 2013

24 Sport 22m, 13
44 Da Omen

The one bolt extension of The Omen to enable the link into the top of Permissability. Super small pockets, just like 80s French limestone!

Set by Matt Brooks

FFA: Matt Brooks, 14 Apr 2013

27 Sport 30m
45 Permissability

The overlap right of Hungry Eyes. Awesome moves on great rock. Sustained through the top.

FFA: Duncan Hunter, 2009

27 Mixed trad 30m, 2
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
46 Sail the Nullabor

Ascends the centre of this piece of wall to finish either up the thin crack (better pro, but harder) or the flake to its L. Another trad masterpiece.

FFA: John Fantini & Phil Georgeff, 1988

24 Trad 30m
47 I Have A Dream

Start 3m L of Walk The Plank. Hard start with awkward second clip - care! Steel yourself for the top moves on the rounded flake. If Martin Luther King could dream I guess we all can...

FA:

Set by Rick Phillips, 2012

FFA: Will Watkins, 21 Dec 2012

25 Sport 20m, 8
48 Walk the Plank

This is awesome. Start below the fine crack with a bolt, 4m left of corner. Up the wall past breaks and three bolts. At third bolt head right up the double edged flake. Don't place gear behind the suss flakes if you enjoy life and are looking forward to more of it!

FA: Mark Wilson & Richard Watts, 1988

24 Mixed trad 30m, 3
49 Happy Go Lucky

Start 3m L of the Man Overboard corner under the line of fixed hangers. Routefinding skills required at second bolt (!) Sustained climbing on fiddly, often sharp little holds finishing at lower-off 4m below the clifftop. Has been linked into the top flake of Walk The Plank to top out.

FA: Rick Phillips & Seb Sakowicz, 5 Oct 2012

23 Sport 22m, 10

Grey Mist Wall

The cliff takes a 90 degree turn at the major corner of Man Overboard. The ever popular Grey Mist is just right of this on the well worn grey face with flake features.

50 Man Overboard

Start in the corner, just right of the typical abseil line. Better than it looks with varied climbing and good jamming at the top on clean rock.

FA: Peter Blunt & Ian Brown, 1984

16 Trad 26m
51 Night Shift

Traverse at half height from the Man Overboard corner to the arete, about half way up Full Sail.

FA: Ian Brown & Peter Blunt

19 Trad 32m
52 Grey Mist

Most will agree, this climb is the best easy/moderate trad route at the Point and for miles around. Gear placement is amply available and the climbing consistent at the grade. Start in the middle of the dark south-facing wall to the right of the Man Overboard corner. Follow the sinuous crack as it slowly widens to hand size.

FA: Ian Brown & Peter Blunt, 1984

17 Trad 30m
53 Full Sail

Excellent climbing, better than it looks.

Start: The crack just L of the arete, R of Grey Mist.

  1. 23m (19) Follow the crack until it stops then up L side of arete until able to move R to scoop on nose. Up scoop to good ledge on R.

  2. 17m (17) R along ledge and up the zig zag crack with interest.

FA: Ian Brown & Peter Blunt, 1984

19 Trad 40m, 2
54 Rock the Clock

The crack and then bolted arete to the top - the direct finish to 'Full Sail'.

Start: As for 'Full Sail', at the crack just left of the arete and to the right of 'Grey Mist'.

FA: John Fantini & Keith Bell, 1989

22 Mixed trad 30m, 3
55 Saving Grace

Start at a block below the middle of the wall on the right of the arete.

  1. 25m (20) Up to the ledge at 4m, then left to the loose vibrating pedestal. Step right to the thin seam/crack then up to the belay ledge as for 'Full Sail'.

  2. 17m (17) As for 'Full Sail'.

FA: Ian Brown & Peter Blunt, 1988

20 Trad 35m, 2
56 Gear Shift

Traverse right from the belay of 'Night Shift' (i.e. halfway up 'Full Sail') to 'Search and Destroy'. Up this to finish.

FFA: Ian Brown & Bob McMillan, 1988

18 Trad 40m
57 Don't Rock the Block

Up past ring bolts then bypass the dodgy block on the left to gain the 'Full Sail' ledge. Finish as for 'Full Sail'.

Start: In the middle of the wall just right of 'Saving Grace'.

FA: Glenn Jones, Mike Peck & Bob McMillan

25 Trad 30m
58 Search and Destroy

The left facing corner at the right hand end of the wall.

  1. 20m Up the corner then groove to a nice ledge.

  2. 10m Originally up the wide corner at the back of the ledge but now most people prefer to climb the cracks just right of the corner.

FA: Ian Brown & Peter Blunt, 1984

18 Trad 30m

1.5.2. The Poop Deck 15 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -35.093176, 150.806947

description

Brown and Gold wall just north of Windjammer. Gently overhanging all the way with a mixt of climbing styles. The rock is solid but does have a few sandy spots that brush up well. There is a mix of Trad, Sport and Mixed routes. Well worth a visit for a day or two. Recently several good quality, well bolted sports routes have been added covering all grades.

approach

As for Windjammer but keep heading straight instead of right through the bushes.

descent notes

Rapp in from a number of carrot bolt locations at the top of the cliff.

history

Overlooked for so long as a destination cliff but now has enough quality sports routes for any Nowra di hard.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Bowel Blockage

Sandy and poorly protected.

16 Trad 20m
2 La Lambada

The fine, red diagonal crack with black streaks near the middle of the wall.

FFA: John Fantini & D. Morgan, 1989

22 Trad 18m
3 The Doo Doo Rock

Follow Nice orange rock with long moves between pockets. Spicy move at top.

FA: Tim Booth, Mar 2014

26 Sport 15m
4 Tattood Beat Messiah

Line of rings up wall to the left of the diagonal crack. Follow the reddish streaks via some big funky moves to a last move crux.

FA: WillWatkins, 9 Mar 2013

26 Sport 15m, 6
5 Slutcats / Lucky

Line of 3 bolts thru scoops and pockets to a powerful Nowra like crux. Great rock and wicked moves. Small cam in the top slot protects the last moves.

FA: Lucky Chance, 2009

26 Mixed trad 15m, 3
6 Perverts on the Poop Deck

Start below the dark flaring crack just right of Slutcats. Pass 3 carrot bolts to some cam placements and then one more carrot.

FA: Will watkins

Mixed tradProject 22m, 4
7 Military Madness

Now has stainless steel carrot bolts to replace the old mank. Fun moves of pretty good rock. Cut slightly right to the last carrot and then up.

FFA: Ant Phren, 1990

24 Mixed trad 20m, 4
8 One Less Wallaby

Start at the thin crack (small wires) and then head directly up some great rock and moves past 3 more stainless carrots. Tricky first moves leads to sustained climbing on good holds. Holds thin out towards the top so keep moving.

FA: Will Watkins, 10 Mar 2013

25 Mixed trad 20m, 3
9 No Dispatch Notice

Project - Jake Noblett. Drilled holes but no bolts yet.

SportProject 15m, 5
10 Wide Awakening

The line of ringbolts starting up large R-facing flake. Good moderate climbing through solid rock to the sandy finale which will have you cursing.

FA: Jake Noblett, 9 Mar 2013

25 Sport 22m, 6
11 Sand Castles / Chance

Line of 3 U-bolts up slightly sandy rock. Thread runner can be used between bolts 1 and 2.

FA: Lucky Chance, 2009

26 Mixed trad 15m, 3
12 Capella Crax

The parallel cracks at the R end of the Poop Deck. Begin in the one on the R. Strenuously, then carefully until hard, sustained jamming is reached. Pike L into the next sandy horror, then more easily to top.

18 Trad 20m
13 The Throne

Starts 3m right of the crack. This climb is basically two boulder problems divided by a sit down rest in the middle. Ideal for strong climbers with no endurance.

FA: Jake Noblett, 27 Apr 2013

24 Sport 20m, 8
14 I Once Was A Cyborg

Climb the chossy rooflet to good solid rock for the rest of the climb. Nice sustained climbing past plenty of bolts. Respect the small pebbles as you pass them as they will help you out.

FA: Jake Noblett, 3 Mar 2013

23 Sport 22m, 8
15 Drifting Ashore

As for previous route but break right at 2nd bolt and climb past another 5-6 bolts on cool rock to an awesome, spicy finish on the arete.

FA: Jake Noblett, 3 Mar 2013

20 Sport 22m, 8

1.5.3. Heavy Weather - Bon Voyage 12 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad climbing, Aid climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -35.092802, 150.807305

description

Sector of upper cliffline just North of The Poop Deck. The rock is mainly good however some of the holds may need brushing as they have not been climbed for a while. The climbs are fairly long and enjoyable.

approach

As for Windjammer. Head North 200 meters and arrive at the top of Escape Route and Terra Nulius.

history

Mainly trad with a few bolts thrown in. A few new additions will be fully bolted and fun.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Escape Route

Bad rock.

15 Trad 35m
2 Terra Nullius

Belay in the corner with a few medium cams. Up the wall to a big move, reachy. About 23 to the crux, then it gets hard for the last few moves. Take a bolt bracket.

FFA: Greg James & Mike Moore, 2000

26 Mixed trad 30m, 7
3 Zodiac Mindwarp

Start off the corner ledge as for Terra Nullius. Clip first carrot of this and traverse the breaks past two ring bolts. Continue straight up through fantastic climbing and rock to a crux past the last bolt.

FA: Will Watkins, 24 Mar 2013

25 Sport 20m, 7
4 Toil and Blood

Bad rock.

19 Trad 37m
5 Heavy Weather

Bad rock.

19 Trad 40m
6 Burning Bridges

Bad rock.

16 Trad 44m
7 Saladin

Bad rock.

17 Trad 30m
8 Grit Your Teeth

Crumbly in upper half

17 Trad 30m
9 Star Trekkin

Really sandy rock

19 Trad 30m
10 Bon Voyage 19 Trad 160m
11 Frigging in the Rigging 17 M3 Aid 35m
12 Hell for Leather 19 M0 Aid 27m

1.5.4. Zawnzibar 4 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -35.089398, 150.810032

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Cryptic Message 22 Trad 30m
2 Offal 16 Trad 20m
3 My Beautifull Laundrette

The first 2/3 of this is well protected finger crack on good rock. The rest is poorly protected and poor rock.

18 Trad 20m
4 Cold Power

Bad rock and poorly protected start (crux).

20 Trad 25m

1.5.5. Seaside Lower 22 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -35.093630, 150.806816

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Southerly Buster 15 Trad 75m
2 Itchycoo Park 15 Trad 50m
3 Continental Drift 15 Trad 60m
4 Scenic Cruise 15 Trad 54m
5 Wipeout 16 Trad 50m
6 Dreams and Visions 15 Trad 62m
7 Crystal Vision 16 Trad 50m
8 School Bouy

Pitch 1. Start on the left hand side of the large block 20m R of Dreams and Visions. Climb straight up through the 'dinner plates' to hanging belay at obvious horizontal 2m below RB. The rock on this pitch is surprisingly solid and the gear is sufficient. Doubles in camalots 3 & 4 are useful. Pitch 2 (crux). Climb straight up past bolt and medium cams (.75 camalot on R after bolt) to gain the arete just below where rock quality starts to deteriorate. Roll over arete to join Dreams and Visions to finish.

FA: Joe & Peter Blunt, 13 May 2017

19 Mixed trad 50m, 2, 1
9 Into the Mystic 19 Trad 50m
10 Mister Smee 12 Trad 40m
11 Oceanus 17 Trad 50m
12 Fear of Flying 17 Trad 50m
13 Nelson 15 Trad 46m
14 Silent Running 17 Trad 60m
15 Up Periscope 15 Trad 60m
16 The Devil and the Deep 19 Trad 560m
17 Grey and Green 13 Trad 40m
18 Easybeat 16 Trad 30m
19 Marianne 16 Trad 25m
20 Gunships over the Deep 21 Trad 30m
21 The Rolling Deep 14 Trad 45m
22 Snapping Jaws 18 Trad 45m

1.6. Shellfish Area 50 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -35.086830, 150.812942

1.6.1. Shellshock Row 18 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -35.087921, 150.811765

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Known

A reasonably nice route. About 10m left of Wind Assisted. Descent anchors are about 10m back from cliff edge. Start at small stance about 5m above the descent ledge (which has no pro). Up the crack, left to the flake and up.

FFA: Adam Kerz & Lara Masselos, 2008

FA: FTRA Adam Gibson, 2008

14 Trad 18m
2 Wind Assisted 14 Trad 30m
3 Quantum Undertakers

FA: Greg James, Rohan Reynolds & Captain Smeg, 1991

20 Mixed trad 15m, 2
4 Rat Tango 15 Trad 18m
5 CBT 20 Mixed trad 18m, 2
6 Slumlord 16 Trad 18m
7 Terrors of Pleasure

FA: Joe Lynch, Min Moore & Jim Truscott, 1989

17 Trad 18m
8 The Hard Word 19 Trad 18m
9 Stretching the Point 18 Trad 15m
10 Handsome Ox 19 Trad 18m
11 Who Killed Schrodinger's Cat?

FA: Greg James & The Legend, 1991

20 Mixed trad 18m, 2
12 Turbo - Curare

FA: Tim Carrol & Joe Lynch, 1989

22 Mixed trad 18m, 2
13 Gunboat Diplomacy

FA: Greg James

22 Mixed trad 18m, 3
14 Black Cat Bone

FA: Joe Lynch & Tim Carrol, 1989

20 Mixed trad 18m, 1
15 Slumgullion

FA: Nick Peck, George Feig & Anthony Budd, 1991

22 Mixed trad 18m, 4
16 Angel Wings 15 Trad 18m
17 Porcelain Primadonna's 26 Mixed trad 18m, 1
18 Rolling in the Dirt 17 Trad 13m

1.6.2. Popeye Wall 16 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -35.087105, 150.812457

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Choy Sum 23 Trad 30m
2 Wimpy 21 Trad 25m
3 Retro 21 Trad 25m
4 Popeye and Brutus go Bolting 24 Trad 25m
5 Popeye

FFA: 2011

20 Sport 25m, 9
6 Cabbage 23 Trad 22m
7 Spinach 25 Trad 20m
8 Eat more Spinach 25 Mixed trad 20m, 2
9 Et Tu Brute 17 Trad 20m
10 Olive Oil's Pregnant With My Two Headed Love Child

FA: Greg James & Adrian Kladnig, 1991

24 Mixed trad 40m, 5
11 Don't Go Down To The Sea, Sweet Pea 24 Trad 40m
12 Olive Oil's Triple Hueco Expedition 24 Trad 20m
13 Enduro Master 22 Trad 40m
14 The Great Spinnach Con 20 Trad 30m
15 Ride the Swell 23 Trad 40m
16 Grope for the Rope 22 Trad 15m

1.6.3. Rocky Horror Show Area 7 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -35.086260, 150.813432

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Another Rocky Horror Show 18 Trad 75m
2 Take a Walk on the Wild Side 10 Trad 30m
3 Virtues of Being Vague 19 Trad 35m
4 Cool Banana 20 Trad 20m
5 Gangster of Love 16 Trad 15m
6 our viral world

From the our terminal world belay climb diagonally up and right for 3m then straight up following the gear and features. It is expected that this has been climbed previously but it's not in the guide nor was it on the crag..

FA: Mark Feeney & Mattia Fornari, 7 Feb 2020

17 Trad 18m
7 Our Terminal World

Wildly exposed overhanging arete with 4 fixed hangers, and a fixed belay thread. Take some cams for the top.

FA: Simon Carter

25 Mixed trad 18m, 4

1.6.4. Swordfish Wall 9 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -35.085667, 150.814582

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Swordfish 12 Trad 30m
2 Samudram 16 Trad 30m
3 Pizza Killer 18 Trad 30m
4 Persephone 18 Trad 25m
5 Pomegranite 17 Trad 30m
6 Radio With Pictures 16 Trad 30m
7 Pop Up Manouvres 20 Trad 30m
8 The Free Mexican Airforce 17 Trad 30m
9 New Jersey Woman 21 Trad 25m

1.7. Thunder Head 90 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -35.084070, 150.818164

1.7.1. Thunderbird Wall 12 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -35.084597, 150.816560

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Countess

Up Deep Sea Mullet for 8m then traverse left onto the sandy pocketed face.

18 Trad 18m
2 Deep Sea Mullet

Short crack splitting the wall just left of the corner. Seeps badly down low after heavy rain.

17 Trad 12m
3 Miss Penelope

The short dark stemming corner on the left end of Thunderbird Wall, starting on high vegetated ledge. A little fiddly to protect. Seeps after heavy rain.

18 Trad 12m
4 No Strings Attached

At the left end of the main wall, and just right of the dark corner is a seam crack. This route climbs the face just right of the crack. Protection is quite spaced and not great - be warned. Grade is probably a bit of a sandbag as well.

20 Trad 15m
5 Thunderbirds Are Go

The pocketed grey face on the right edge of the higher vegetated ledge. The climb wanders around in a bid to find protection and holds. Be careful - trad gear is spaced. Double ropes or long slings useful.

21 Trad 20m
6 Virgil 21 Trad 20m
7 Brain 21 Trad 20m
8 Dad

A fine sustained wall route. Not as direct as the print guide makes out - unless you add several grades. Start over the bulge just left of the bolted route, then up the face on good horizontals to major horizontal break. Traverse left across this for 2m then up the face, then left again to join into Brain for a move then back right and finish up big sandy pockets. Double ropes useful. Protection is good but spaced. Bring cams to size #4.

21 Trad 20m
9 Fab

One of the most popular routes on the wall, mainly because it's mostly bolts! Don't be too relaxed though, the bolts are spaced and you need a spot of trad in the middle section (small cams). The moves and rock are fab though. Starts at right end of wall at undercut section. Stickclip first bolt or get a good spot.

23 Mixed trad 25m, 5
10 Thunderbirds Are Bogged

The best and most popular route on Thunderbird Wall. Exposure, good bolts and lovely polished orange rock all the way. Starts at right end of wall as for "Fab" then traverse right (crossing Aquamarina) and up large heucos. Mostly bolts but a light trad rack is needed.

22 Mixed trad 25m, 5
11 Aquamarina

Starts 1m right of Fab, at furthest right you can safely stand on the chossy ledge. Rap in and pre-place wire about 4m up the route as your first runner or stick clip first bolt on Fab if you really feel the fear. Boulder the undercut start, crux, then wander up wall with spaced but good trad gear. Vital micro cams (black/blue Alien size) about midway up the route. Gear to #3 Camalot.

FA: Tony Barten, Mike Peck & John Churchill, 1988

21 Trad 20m
12 Thunderbirds Are Gone

The right arete of the main wall, starting on ledge system 10m below the main ledge. One bolt and trad.

22 Mixed trad 40m, 1

1.7.2. Roy's Wall 11 routes in Sector

Summary:
Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -35.084927, 150.816829

description

This is a slightly slabby grey face just around the corner from Thunderbird Wall. The wall faces south so only gets very late afternoon sun.

approach

There are hidden double ringbolts to rap from in a circular depression above East Coast Choppers - near the remains of three old bolts from the military era. The belay for the first four routes is a chossy ledge/break about 15m down the cliff - two ringbolts, one on the lip of the roof and one under it.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Reel Men

The first three routes share the same start - a left facing layback flake above an undercut roof. This route takes the left line, splitting after the 2nd bolt and climbing a subtle right facing flake in the middle and jumbo pockets at the end. It's a mixed route so take a couple of wires for the start, some medium cams and a long sling for excellent thread in the jumbo pockets in the last section.

FA: Neil Monteith, Matt Brooks & Marak, 23 Mar 2013

18 Mixed trad 15m, 5
2 East Coast Choppers

Best of the routes on this section of wall, with excellent slabby crimping on bomber rock. It's the middle line starting as for Reel Men and finishing up the juggy central groove directly below the rap rings. Single set of cams/wires to fist size supplements the bolts.

FA: Neil Monteith, Matt Brooks & Marak, 23 Mar 2013

19 Mixed trad 15m, 4
3 Hero with a Hammer

Technical thought provoking crimping on slightly slabby rock. Climb the start layback flake of Reel Men then blast directly up the wall above, with a slight right trend. Finishes up easy but hard to protect giant pockets. Two finger sized cams, plus single set of cams from hand to fist supplement the spaced bolts.

FA: Neil Monteith, Matt Brooks & Marak, 23 Mar 2013

20 Mixed trad 16m, 4
4 The Angle Grinder

The right most route utilizing the flake start of East Coast Choppers. Halfway up the flake traverse right onto face (ring) and up face above past a couple of rings and lots of bomber medium cam slots. Bring some larger cams for the giant finish pockets or just run it out.

FA: Neil Monteith, Marek & Louie, 31 Mar 2013

20 Mixed trad 20m, 5
5 Orangina (Neil's Project)

Small burly pitch on superb orange rock below the belay for East Coast Choppers (ie starts on the vegetated ledge). Left trending line on pumpy slimps. Grade 25?

SportProject 10m, 5
6 Iron Harvest (trad start)

An easier alternative trad start up shallow left facing flake crack 2m left of the 'face start'. Belay off single RB.

FA: Neil Monteith & Marak, 28 Apr 2013

24 Mixed trad 26m, 5
7 Iron Harvest (face start)

A long climb with variety! Find top of Pinochio - fix rope and rap 25m down to vegetated ledge with single bolt anchor below orange face sprouting ringbolts. Up gorgeous orange face on slopers, through a juggy bulge then left out rooflet on gnarly pockets and onto grey slab (bolts end here). Finish up reachy horizontal features and crimps with bomber cam slots just left of Pinochio.

FA: Neil Monteith & Marak, 28 Apr 2013

24 Mixed trad 27m, 8
8 Pinochio And The Witch

Rap into high ledge (anchor off rap rope). This route climbs the left trending crack line off the left.

19 Trad 15m
9 Roy's Route 18 Trad 20m
10 The Ramp 15 Trad 40m
11 Beware The Bleary Eyed Dragon 13 Trad 20m

1.7.3. Fisho's Descent Area 16 routes in Sector

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -35.084812, 150.817350

description

Once in ancient history men with fishing rods built a path down this section of cliffs using old ropes and ladders. The remains are truly terrifying. Now a band of unruly crag warriors are renovating and reinventing the overlooked potential of the area. All climbs have good belay ledges and spacious entertaining areas. Well equipped sport routes with a view to die for. The rock is solid and of a very hard nature rarely found at the Point. There is an excellent large weather protected cave directly above the routes.

approach

Follow hidden track off road as for Thunderbird wall then track north.

descent notes

Rap down from ubolt anchors above Rainbows in a Rainstorm.

history

Overlooked for many years until 2016. Please respect peoples projects till they are complete.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Get Down

Mini route on steep pocketed wall with ringbolts. Belay off single FH under roof. Two bouldery sections down low then pumper pockets to finish. Double U bolts on top ledge for belay and rap-in.

FA: Monty Curtis & adam demmert, 17 Sep 2016

23 Sport 10m, 4
2 Broomstick Excursion Pass 10 Trad 40m
3 Limber Up

Rap from double BRs on small ledge to semi-hanging belay off single ringbolt (back it up with rap rope or clip 2nd bolt with long sling). Start with 5m of easy slab to diabolical roof move then easy jugs and finally a short compact section of pumpy steep pockets just left of easy crack.

FA: Monty Curtis, 22 May 2016

22 Sport 18m, 7
4 Escapee

The easiest bolted escape route from the Fisho ledge. Climb first bolt of Walking on Sunshine, then mantle up onto small ledge on the left. Walk along it (clip bolt with long sling) then up long grey bolted wall which is surprisingly steep and pumpy. Att the top finish left of the last bolt. Belay off double RB on the 2nd ledge above the topout.

18 Sport 25m, 8
5 Rocky Horror Picture Show

Walk south thru cave to belay off two carrots. Straight up and slightly right thru the stepped roofs... The crux isn't the steep stuff

FA: Rick Phillips & will

Set by Rick

22 Sport 25m, 10
6 Walking on Sunshine

Like nothing else at the Point - a classic steep well bolted adventure. The finish is an exhilarating steep across onto the giant overhung proboscis visible from kilometers away. To access walk south under cave to edge of cliff & belay off two carrots (bring bolt plates). Undercut start then after first bolt trend right, pull thru the steep stuff then keep going right stepping over the void to finish.

FA: Rick Phillips & Aleasha Way

Set by Rick Phillips

19 Sport 25m, 10
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
7 Footloose and Fancy Free

Start in the middle of wall. Stick clip first bolt in ceiling and batman up to it. Super airy excursion leftwards to the arete and then up to double rings at top

FA: Rick Phillips, May 2016

22 Sport 12m
8 The Unicorn Route - Bundy Project

Start in the cave and climb thru the ceiling, pull on to the exposed head wall.

Set by Jason Lammers, 14 May 2016

SportProject 12m
9 Cream

project. Start up New power generation and at the 3rd ring bolt head straight up to anchors past another ring bolt.

Set by will

SportProject
10 New power generation

Jump or pull up for jug in roof. Pull up and left on amazing jugs and edges. Two big moves up before heading right to pull the lip/arete and up to lower offs

Set by will

FA: will watkins, 8 May 2016

24 Sport 12m, 6
11 Fifty Seven

Pull up or Jump for jug in roof and crimp up to slot. Trend right to arete and pull round and up to lower offs.

Set by will

FA: Will watkins, 8 May 2016

23 SportProject 5
12 Rainbows in a Rainstorm

Quality fun sport route starting at right end of undercut cave on large vegetated ledge. Swing through short roof to start then up yummy sustained face with ringbolts. Mistakenly marked in the recent print guide topo as 'Blue Stocking".

FA: Rick Phillips & Aleasha Way, 2016

20 Sport 20m
13 Pufferfish

Old school crimpfest. Very thin and technical in the lower half then cruisy fun pockets. Start at seam crack 1m left of major corner (as for Sharkies) then diagonally left onto orange face. Belay off ubolts at edge of cave.

23 Sport 20m, 10
14 Sharkies

Really great sustained face climbing. Starts 1m left of major corner. Up seam and then wall above, finishing slightly left under hanging boulder at FH and belay at double Ubolts in cave.

FA: Monty Curtis, 1 May 2016

22 Sport 20m, 10
15 Blue Stocking

A mixed route requiring big cams. Start at major left facing wide corner 5m right of cave. Up this easy corner to large ledge at 10m then climb wall above past two RBs and a manky FH to trad protected top (more big cams). This route may actually not be Blue Stocking, but another mystery unrecorded route.

FA: John Churchill, Mike Peck & Anne Hastings, 1988

20 Mixed trad 15m, 3
16 Fisho's Corner

Easy trad corner starting from triangular ledge about 10m down. Was once the location of the dodgy fishos descent ropes!

12 Trad 10m

Fisho's descent area

1.7.4. Solstice Wall 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -35.084537, 150.817750

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

Solstice wall

1 The Crack 10 Mixed trad 15m, 1
2 Solstice Pich One

Start directltly 20m below Solstice off the big ledge. A big move off the ground where the rock is a little sandy leads up L into the corner before going diagonally R to the DBB belay.

FA: Matthew Brooks, 1 Apr 2013

21 Sport 20m, 8
3 Solstice 15 Sport 15m, 8
4 Rock Termite 12 Sport 15m, 9
5 Over The Moon 15 Mixed trad 15m, 5

1.7.5. Tequilla Sunrise 11 routes in Sector

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -35.084166, 150.818127

description

The orange vertical buttresses between the iconic fisherman's 'hut' and the VB Slab. Mostly ringbolted sport routes. Shade after midday.

approach

Rap in and climb out. Some of the routes have lower-off anchors below the top of the cliff. These routes also have nearby 'escape' routes at an easier grade which go to the top of the cliff.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Sushi with a View

Start as for ISSF. Abseil 40m from DUB directly above the Fishos cave 20 L of the Tempest. Climb ISSF for the first few bolts then head and up the wall past 9 FH to a single UB lower off. Soon to be doubled.

FA: Matt Brooks, 1 Apr 2013

25 Sport 35m, 13
2 I Smell Something Fishy

Awesome, long and pumpy, a little sandy in spots. Abseil from the DUB anchors directly above the Fishos hut 30 L of the Tempest. Up the wall , over the roof the R and up the wall. The last 5m is a little sandy but are well protected.

FA: Matt Brooks, 22 Mar 2013

26 Sport 40m, 15
3 The Tempest

Obvious overhung corner crack, bottom seeps a little after rain.

17 Trad 20m
4 Tequilla Sunrise

Long route starting way down on the big vegetated ledge. Starts on far left edge of orange face. Not really a sport route as you need two medium cams for the easy middle. No bolt plates required.

FA: Rick Phillips & Will Watkins Aleasha Way, 2016

20 Sport 30m
5 Dom Perignon

Starts 4m right of Tequila Sunrise. Wall to overhung arete.

Set by Will Watkins, 2016

24 SportProject 25m
6 Moet Project

Start from the 2 carrot bolt belay on the half way ledge. Punch up the overhanging wall past ring bolts on amazing rock. Bring your nowra arms for this one. Closed project - stay off.

Set by will watkins, 2016

SportProject 15m, 6
7 Bundy Project

Start on the ledge left of 'Drown Your Sorrows (Rick Project)'

SportProject
8 Tequila Slammer

Sweet orange and grey wall directly under the mega choss roofs. Lucky there is lower-offs before this roof!

23 SportProject 15m
9 Greasy Nipple

The escape route for 'Tequila Slammer' is harder than expected! Climbs up corner and into chimney slot at top. The exit move is exciting.

FA: Rick Phillips, Jason Lammers, lous Blundell & Gilles Bonin, 7 May 2016

20 Trad 18m
10 Slippery Nipple

Nice orange gritty arete and good exit pitch for Drown Your Sorrows or Passion Pop. 5 bolt plates required. Shares last few bolts with Greasy Nipple.

FFA: Aleasha Way, Rick Phillips & Will Watkins, Mar 2016

18 Sport 15m
11 Passion Pop

Short, powerful and steep mini route bordering the left end of VB Slab. A good pumper when you get tired of the slabs! Lower-offs before the top of the cliff, so exit out via Slippery Nipples

Set by Rick Phillips

FFA: Monty Curtis & Vanessa Wills, 10 Apr 2016

23 Sport 10m, 5

1.7.6. VB Slab Area 14 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -35.083704, 150.818616

description

Quality long and exposed slab climbing. Has been entirely rebolted in 2016. Let the games begin!

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Free the Nipple

Left most climb on VB Slab. Rap to massive ledge to RB and carrot belay. Up right of vertical seem. Take care clipping the 2nd carrot.

Can be used as an escape route for 'Passion Pop'

FA: Jason Lammers & Rick Phillips, 7 May 2016

18 Trad 15m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 Brewers Droop

Far left route starting off small ledge. Shares first few bolts with Mates. Mostly carrots, but bring some cams.

FA: Jason Lammers, Apr 2016

19 Trad 25m
3 Mates

Up from the 2RB belay past a few carrots and then trad up the crack past another carrot towards the top.

17 Trad 25m
4 I Feel Like A Hughey

Shared belay ledge as for 'Mates' The right route off the belay with some thin moves about halfway up the wall.

18 Trad 25m
5 Passage Of The Whale 18 Trad 40m
6 Prawn Sandwich

Rap from a single carrot (backup with any of the Army RBs that are all over the place here) to semi hanging belay above the big roof. Thin and sustained. Carrots and maybe a No3. Camalot in the easy section (or just run it out)

FA: Jason Lammers & Rick Phillips, 14 May 2016

19 Trad 32m
7 Whale Aid 18 Trad 25m
8 Green Thunder 19 Trad 25m
9 Rick's Trick

Has a move and a RB over the bulge about half way up the wall. Semi hanging belay above the cave.

FA: Rick Phillips, May 2016

20 Trad 30m
10 One For The Whale 18 Trad 25m
11 Whale of a Time

Belay off 2RB right down at lip of big roof, not the single RB at the small ledge. From the belay, up past a couple of wires to a carrot, mantle up on to the ledge and continue up the nice wall. Bring some wires for the start and a few medium cams for the rest or run it out on carrots.

FA: Jason Lammers & Aleasha Way, 10 Apr 2016

19 Trad 32m
12 A Nice Cold Fear 17 Trad 25m
13 Alesha's route

Abseil off rings where shrubs suddenly come close to cliff. Must be close to a nice cold fear, but now sports bolts though a few cams needed to #3.

FA: aleasha Way & Rick Phillips, 9 Apr 2016

18 Trad 30m
14 Short Arms Deep Pockets

Shorter route on the right end of the slab, with a hanging belay above the cave.

FA: Rick Phillips, Apr 2016

20 Mixed trad 20m, 5

1.7.7. Twist Top Wall 11 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -35.083044, 150.819269

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 BYO

The exposed arete left of 'Amber Nectar'

FA: Rick Phillips & Aleasha Way

Set by Wade Stewart & Rick Phillips

19 SportProject 20m
2 Amber Nectar 19 Trad 25m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
3 Twist Top

Follow the bolt line (take brackets), supplementing with small & medium cams through the first half of the climb

12 Mixed trad 25m, 6
4 Twist top direct finish

Start as for twist top but follow the corner all the way up

15 Mixed trad 25m, 1
5 Wolfman 12 Trad 20m
6 Stubby Holder 10 Trad 25m
7 Milk Crates, Bats And Spiders 14 Trad 25m
8 Breached Whale 11 Sport 15m
9 Long As A Schlong 16 Trad 10m
10 Cornflake Corner 10 Trad 10m
11 Compass Airways 16 Trad 15m

1.7.8. Orange wall 8 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport climbing and Trad climbing

summary

Solid and amazingly slick orange rock. Good conditions will make the world of difference on this wall. Wait for shade and breeze. Great for a day hanging out on a nice ledge watching the ocean.

description

Neet compact and clean wall of orange stone. Mostly climbing on features rather than holds. Lots of scoops and slopes.

access issues

Walk north from twist top 50 meters. Small compact wall on the right

approach

As for Twist Top Wall

ethic

Bolted heaven. The new climbs all have plenty of stainless steel rings.

history

In 1993 two Trad climbs were done on the far right and then forgotten about until the perpetrators of fun realized that the wall held some amazing qualities which were then transformed with the aid of 316 rings into fun and interesting climbs.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Day glow Halo

Furthest left climb on ledge... Belay off carrot. Shares first bolt with Double Dutch.. Swing your way upwards on jugs

18 Sport 10m
2 Double Dutch

Second climb in from the left... Straight up wall on good holds until they run out...

20 Sport 10m
3 Breaking Bad

Second bolted route from the right. Up from ledge on amazing rock and some sweet moves. Dont be fooled by the size of the holds. This will make you work hard. Up to lower off.

Set by will

FA: will & Rick Phillips, 21 May 2016

22 Sport 10m, 5
4 Game of Thrones

Right hand line of bolts. Great rock and moves up to lower off. Shares first bolt with Breaking Bad.

Set by Will

FA: Will Wat Rick phillips, 21 May 2016

22 Sport 10m, 5
5 Long as a Schlong

Start 1 meter left of the corner. Up wall on large pockets.

FA: Matt Andrews, Adrien Andrews & John de Martin, 1993

16 Trad 10m
6 Cornflake Corner

Up right hand corner

FA: Adrien Andrews & Matt Andrews, 1993

10 Trad 10m
7 Ying Yang

About 30 mtrs past Orange wall locate the 2 rap bolts above a short orange wall about 10 mtrs high with bolts..(this is pitch 2) Continue rapping down clipping the bolts otherwise you WILL be in outta space...

The hanging belay is fairly out there so be confident with exposure..

Climb up and out over the roof (crux).. Falling here, it's best to be lowered down to start again.. Maybe carry prussics

FA: Rick Phillips & Sabine

21 Sport 35m, 2
8 Sparrow Fart

About 50 mtrs past Orange wall heading North... locate the rap rings and rap down an arete to a nice stance and belay off 2 bolts..

FA: Rick Phillips & Sabine Pratt

17 Sport 20m

1.7.9. Mission Brown Wall 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad climbing

approach

Halfway between Thunderbird Wall and Crocodile Head

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Cave 15 Mixed trad 20m, 3
2 Mission Improbable 24 Trad 35m

1.8. Crocodile Head 10 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -35.075926, 150.830915

approach

Park on Lighthouse Road 6.6km from the entry gate. You should be next to the edge of the UXO restricted area and an access road. Walk down this access road keeping the UXO area fence on your left for about 15 minutes until you hit another gate saying 'no entry'. There should be a sign for Crocodile Head and a track through the heathland on the right. Follow this sandy track for about another 15 minutes until you reach the flagpole at the top of the cliff. This is just above the sketchy fisherman's descent and the Silver and Gold Wall. The Main Wall is another 100m scrub bash south of the flagpole.

1.8.1. Main Wall 8 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Lat / Long: -35.075996, 150.830489

approach

After reaching the flagpole, head south along the cliffline for another 100m. There's currently no clear track but the scrub is easy enough to wade through

descent notes

Carrot bolts above Matt's Route on the slanting boulder near the edge, or the bolts at the top of Robert's Route.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Ian's Route 10 Trad 35m
2 Mandy's Route

Start as for Ian's route. At the horizontal break with the pocketed roof, traverse precariously right onto the face. Head straight up past block on right to slightly flaring crack. Top out on sandy rock left of large block.

FA: Mandy Cooke & Yosef Murphy, 30 Jun 2015

13 Trad 34m
3 Mandy's Route Direct / Yosef's Route

Start 1m right of Mandy's Route in shallow corner. Up corner to ledge and up arête to first bolt. Tenuous face climbing past 3 more ring bolts to join Mandy's route at the traverse. Take a long runner for the second bolt.

FA: Yosef Murphy & Mandy Cooke, 2 Jul 2015

20 Mixed trad 33m, 4
4 Matt's Route 19 Mixed trad 30m, 7
5 Ivan's Route 19 Trad 35m
6 Peter's Route 17 Trad 35m
7 Werner's Route 19 Mixed trad 35m, 4
8 Robert's Route 20 Trad 35m

1.8.2. Silver and Gold Wall 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Lat / Long: -35.075686, 150.831116

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Fool's Gold 16 Trad 25m
2 Cavendish Silver 17 Trad 40m

1.9. Devil's Gully Area 65 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Rock climbing

Lat / Long: -35.062313, 150.839123

access issues

Devil's Gully lies within the Impact Area. Access to this area is forbidden due to a large amount of UXO (UneXploded Ordinance) which is a shame as there is some really good climbing here.

1.9.1. Bombora Wall 26 routes in Area

Summary:
Rock climbing, Trad climbing and Aid climbing

Lat / Long: -35.063975, 150.838236

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Paragon Pickup 20 Unknown 30m
2 Goulburn Waitresses Take No Bull 21 Unknown 30m
3 Scorched Fudge 18 Unknown 35m
4 This Is Serious Mum 19 Unknown 30m
5 Defecate On My Face 19 Unknown 30m
6 Traverse Of The Tunas 20 Unknown 30m
7 Stunned Mullet 22 Unknown 30m
8 Hollymay 17 Unknown 35m
9 Newton At The Nightclub 23 Trad 37m
10 Bounty Hunter 20 Unknown 35m
11 Tonton Macoute 20 Unknown 35m
12 Bombora 17 Unknown 35m
13 Let Sleeping Bombs Lie 22 Unknown 35m
14 Einstein At The Beach

Greg originally graded this 24. At the time he usually only needed 1-2 attempts to get a 24 so he figured that 3 attempts would be a hard 24.

It was only when Steve Monks repeated it a few months later and told Greg that it was the best 26 he's done for long time that we knew what the real grade was.

FA: Greg James & Adrian Kladnig, 1992

26 Trad 35m
15 From Hoover To Hammer 20 Unknown 35m
16 Big News From Baton Rouge 21 Trad 35m
17 The Lost Mariner 20 Unknown 35m
18 Fly On The Wall 22 Unknown 35m
19 Deceiving Climbers 23 M0 Aid 35m
20 Red Hot And Blue 23 Unknown 35m
21 Lets Go Snorkelling 21 Unknown 35m
22 Vania 23 M1 Aid 40m
23 Goody Two-shoes 17 Unknown 35m
24 Couch Potato 21 Unknown 30m
25 Drowning By Numbers 21 Unknown 35m
26 Power Lounging 21 Trad 30m

1.9.2. Arch Bluffs South 17 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Rock climbing

Lat / Long: -35.061704, 150.839499

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Justin's Chimney 15 Unknown 35m
2 The Worm in Yellow Socks 18 Unknown 30m
3 Fleetwing 17 Unknown 35m
4 Delayed Action 14 Unknown 30m
5