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Popran

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Description

This is a great crag situated on Mangrove Creek, a tributary of the Hawkesbury river. It is 3km north of the small town of Spencer. It is predominantly ring bolted sport climbs, with one or two mixed routes thrown in. it faces west and is uncomfortably hot on summer afternoons.

Access issues

Take the Somersby exit Off the M1 to Peats Ridge and continue to Central Mangrove. Follow the signs towards Wisemans Ferry on Wisemans Ferry Rd. Just before crossing Mangrove creek Popran Rd exits to the left. The road is unsealed and parallels the creek. Continue past a caravan park, Pure Valley, and Hominy Creek. Just past a sharp right hand turn there is a grass clearing on the right hand side of the road adjacent to a creek to park. Cross the creek, then head left steeply up the hill

Approach

Pick up the track near some large boulders And zig zag up the hill. You should arrive near Little Green Slugs.

History

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First explored by Phil Stallard and the Wondabyne Climbing Club in the late 1970s / early 1980s. Sadly no information survives from this period.

Routes

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Grade Route

Trad

FA: Jas Piper

FA: Chris Fox, 2006

FA: Jason Piper, 2006

Right end of main wall, up next to crack with chockstones, trending slightly left when it gets steep at 4 th bolt. Through short roof onto head wall to DBB. Can be done direct at harder grade.

Up 2m R of Mr Creosote on low arête and then through small roof and head wall to anchors back from edge on boulder. Need to abseil off to clean. Alternatively use DBB on route to right.

FA: paul riviere?

Start where there is a step up in the cliff through overlap. Go direct ( snakes inhabit pockets to left) through roof then traverse left to quick links.

FA: Chris Fox, 2006

Mixed bolts and gear, ends at same anchors as Mr Creosote

FA: Jason Piper

Slab to the right of green slugs. Finish on anchors of Mr Creosote.

FA: Tim Haasnoot, 2007

The main arete you come to from the walking trail. P1 20 m Up the slab/arete to chains with disabled quick link. Leave fixed black locking carabiner. P2, contine up through the small roof to top out, anchors back a few metres from edge.

FA: Corey Sawyer

The left side of the arete to LGS. Climbs quite differently, then share final 2 bolts to anchor of MOL

Start up meaning of Liff, then continue out roof past 2 more bolts to top out. Back jump to clean.

FA: Jason Piper, 2006

Starting in the corner left of Green slugs. Up wall to lower off under roof. P2, continue up wall to the right to top out.

FA: Jason Piper, 2006

The route left of the corner chimney. Hard start to move right up scoops to ledge then off ledge to anchors. Be wary of wasps that sometimes nest in the scoops. Monty can be top roped from the anchors if you don't have trad gear.usually dry in rain.

Scary Second pitch/extension to Flying circus .

Plug 1 and 1.5 friend in pockets to right then launch out roof on OK but thin holds and iffy mantle to tree. Carefull off the flakes on the mantle. lower to pythons anchor. Falling will hurt, would be 2* with bolts.

The black slab right of Snake Eyes. Often wet. Careful of runouts.

FA: 2004

Climbs the face just right of the steep wall. Up slab trending right at halfway then delicatly up the steepening wall to top.

FA: Tim Haasnoot, 2006

The right side of the steep wall. Up face/slab past 2 bolts to slopey moves to get onto head wall.

FA: Tim Haasnoot

Climb 97% mitch free, but move left to the small cave on the steep wall. Head straight up from here to lower offs at very top!

FA: Jason Piper

Start as for 97% Mitch Free, but head out the roof through the mono pocket, then countine up the arching overhanging crack to lower off 97%.

FA: Jason Piper

Weird and wandery (with some interesting rope-management challenges) but tackles some nutty terrain on the best rock here.

Start as for Rehabilitation, but instead truck left for days to a cave-rest. Then switch gears and throw yourself at the power-endurance headwall, moving left at the last bolt to climb the arete on its right side to gain the anchors.

FA: Jason Piper

3 pitch Odyssey. Pitch 1: 15m grade 10 easy climbing to good belay. pitch 2 15m grade 15 traverse (very 'airy') to chain. Pitch 3, LH 2 finger pocket and RH slot, up headwall LH smooth sloper, then to 2 finger pocket (crux) match to RH 2 finger pocket. Big LH move to Jug, then techo jug moves to desperate top out finished with customary unclip and launch into thin air!

FA: Chris Fox

FA: Matt Pascoe

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