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Description

Large north-facing Monolith. Climbs are described from left to right.

Access issues inherited from Porongurups

This is a national park and therefor a fee is expected to be paid depending on where you park. This is sign posted upon entry and is monitored by the ranger.

Approach

Coming from Mount Barker drive along Mount Barker - Porongurup Road and turn right at Woodlands Drive. Turn left off Woodlands Drive onto the Scenic Drive. Continue along this road for approximately 3km and park at a large slab on the right side of the road.

From the slab there is a 4WD track that is blocked off by a wooden barrier. Continue on foot down this track until you come across two metal pickets on the left that are wrapped in blue, pink and white tape. From here just follow the faint path and tape.

The track will finish at the start of "Raven".

Alternatively you can just bush bash the whole way to the crag which is not that difficult.

The walk takes approximately 20-30 minutes.

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Routes

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Grade Route

Start under right end of two horizontal cave systems.

FA: M. Smith & D. Pullin, 1975

1: Start as for Dinosaur. Head up the flake (1.5-3" cams) to a rusty hanger, traverse right to the ledge beneath cave (small gear in flake), then up and left following three fixed hanger to the DBB (4 hangers and gear).

2: Climb to big ledge and traverse left up ledge to a DBB (4 hangers).

3: Follow the hangers up and left to a DBB (6 hangers).

4: Head straight up runnel following the hangers to DBB (6 hangers).

Either rappel down or top out. If topping out there is small gear and an easy climb to the top. If rappelling be careful as the last pitch is slightly longer than 30m.

(i) 40m - 18: Start 80m left of Illusion of Grandeur at base of curving corner flake. Climb up to bolt and traverse right to big ledge. Continue pass three more bolts and belay on bolt to the left of the 4th cave.

(ii) 45 - 17: Straight up pass two good pieces for 40m and up to single bolt belay.

(ii) 60m - 13: Straight up, passing a bolt and belay off single bolt at top.

FA: G. Brysland, M. Smith & P. Cox, 1992

Start on the flake to the left of Lars Attack. DBB at top. (bolts and Cams)

Start 10m left of Go the Dockers. Follow bolts to the DBB. The DBB is the first anchor of Painters and Dockers).

Alternate start for Painters and Dockers. Start to the left of PAD in flake. Finish as for PAD.

Pitch 1: 30m (5brs) Double Bolt Belay

Pitch 2: 30m (3brs) Double Bolt Belay

Can rappel each pitch on a 60m rope.

Imagine what it was like without the bolt! (i) 30m - As for Illusion of Grandeur (ii) 45 - 13: Towards the overlap for 2q5m to good runner. Go left over flakes towards 4 caves. Bolt belay in 3rd cave (from left) (iii) 40m - 17: Past the 4th cave and continue to water runnel corner. Follow to bushy ledge to ledge belay with a small tree. (iv) 35m - 12: Back to runnel and head straight up to belay on blocks (v) 45m - 11: Head towards the small wall at top and belay in crack below wall

Set: M. Smith & P. Hiscock, 1974

FA: D. Pullin & M. Smith, 1975

Start at north slabs at a tongue of rock forming a low angles slab. A small rock bridge spans the gap in the lower section of the tongue. (i) 30m: Straight up slab for several meters to the left of a grass clump and crack. DDB here (ii) 45m: Obvious overlap, with two bolts. Another DBB (iii) 50m: Continue up, passing a cave 5m to the left. 2 bolts and then DBB. (iv) Solo 30m to blocks at top

FA: R, R Master, R. Tyson, M. Dalziel, E. Bumblez & A. Rollo, 1988

1 14 40m
2 14 43m
3 15 45m
4 13 48m
5 5 - 10 40m

A well protected climb with plenty of bolts!

Pitch 1: 40m 14 (9brs) - start at obvious short crack. Follow bolts to bolted belay on small ledge.

Pitch 2: 43m 14 (8brs) - finishes in second cave. Bolted belay inside cave.

Pitch 3: 45m 15 (10brs) - exit cave on right then up left past the last cave to choice of 2 bolted belays - take the higher non-hanging one for more comfort.

Pitch 4: 48m 13 (10brs). Follow bolts to choice of 2 bolted belays - take the higher non-hanging one for more comfort.

Pitch 5: 40m scramble (4brs). Follow bolts to bolted belay and test your belayer's paying out slack speed.

Walk Off: you can walk off to climber's left (East) but it is sketchy so keep your shoes on and forget about it if it has rained or there is dew around. Walk to top then keep heading left until the slope of the rock is only slightly concerning. Head down. You may see a rope. Head in its direction and then keep following the cairns and base of the wall. It's hard to find so stay strong, have faith and keep going left and down.

Rap: Or, just rap down but you need 2 ropes. There are numerous bolted belays so it's hard to miss one and you'll be down quicker than the walk off (and probably safer too if it's even slightly wet).

Set: J.Herlihy, K.Hartley & J.Nevin

FA: J. Herlihy, J. Nevin & Andreas, 2010

FA: Steve Holland & Jeremy Scott, 1999

1 15 40m
2 14 35m
3 13 50m
4 12 55m
5 6 40m

This enjoyable cruise starts 5m right of the white streak of Sucked in Ben. Easily spotted, entirely equipped by ring bolts.

  1. 40m, 15 Up the well featured slab with crux half way up, to wide ledge. 9 bolts

  2. 35m, 14 The steep clean headwall with huge holds, to another wide ledge. 5 bolts

  3. 50m, 13 A huge pitch of face climbing, a bit mossy. 10 bolts

  4. 55m, 12 Still more face climbing, passing rusty chains of SiB to the right, 9 bolts

  5. 40m, 6 Walk past 3 more bolts to the summit and last belay.

Enjoy the views.

FA: R. Weiter & R. Dunn, Nov 2014

FA: S. Holland & J. Scott, 1999

Follows a direct line up a weakness in the face through an obvious cave halfway between Rooster Carnage and Joint Venture; strenuous and committing.

180m grade 23

Pitch 1 Up ill defined grove into shallow cave; through cave (crux) and belay above on bolts (grade 23).

Pitch 2 Up shallow grove to nearly full rope length on spaced natural pro. Belay where possible (grade 17)

Pitch 3 Straight up easy slab to top, long run outs on good rock (grade 12)

#Note bolts in top of cave protecting crux may need replacing.

A sustained and intimidating line.

A few new bolts and some DBBs thanks to Ron Master and Jim Truscott - December 2019

FA: R, R Master & D. Wagland, 1992

Starts at the narrow slabby tongue that extends to the ground about 100m right of Joint Venture. The climb goes up the wall just to the right of the obvious mossy drainage line that is topped by bushes 70m above the ground.

Pitch 1: 15m 16 Up the slab trending right past 3BR to the pod and DBB. First bolt is a little high as it was meant to be the second bolt but unfortunately the battery died drilling the final hole! If you’re up for the second pitch you should have no problems here.

Pitch 2: 50m 19 Straight up the well featured face past 11BR to ledge and DBB. A 50m rope will suffice but don’t use too much at the belay. Be careful of loose flakes off the main line. The line up the bolts was cleaned but there are some flakey sections where a delicate touch is recommended. Exercise good judgement. Crux at the obvious steepening 3/4 of the way up. Good climbing up steep, well featured and sharp rock. From the top of the second pitch it’s still 70m to the top but a relatively easy scramble up the slab.

FA: Jon Gregg & Neil Gledhill, 2006

FA: B. Aikman & J. Truscott, 1997

Requires cams at halfway break

FA: G. Brysland & C. Molinier, 1992

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