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Summary

Southern most end of Mulumbin Beach

Routes

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Grade Route

Same sit start as 'headless chicken'. Go right and ascend the obvious staircase arete. Over too soon. Quite enjoyable

Sit start from the base of 'headless chicken', traverse right (uphill) past a series of sketchy jugs (avoid: these will break), across some interesting balancey footwork

Opposite rialto. Ss to a sloper rail on the right. Bump up the sloper rail (left) to match on an awkward sloper ledge. Difficult until it suddenly isn't at all.

Used to finish with a match on a big chicken head, but it flaked off. Now it's a sloper ledge.

Sit start a few meters to the left of the first bolt for 'rialto'. Enjoy several meters of shabby, slopey, traversing right to finish at the jug just past rialto's 2nd bolt. Hint: lean left and traverse right

Mulambin crag, route go from left to right, under a visible crack. Holds are not neat and a lot of sea salt on rocks

FA: Warwick Davis

Set: Loneclimber, sam pardon & andrew pardon, 2019

Traverse left to right, around 3 or 4 metres.

Sit-start on a downhill flake, left of unknown (beta, use the barn-door to get you off the ground and you'll understand the name). Traverse right on a series of pinches and smokers with balancey feet. 2 hand match on large slopes a few short metres left of the first bolt on unknown.

Potential to extend further right. (We started a campus-y traverse from left to right going over the broken shale. Fun macho rubbish, but sketchy holds. Could be linked to gravity for a h i that grade problem).

Warning Fixed Gear: Loose/corroded bolts

This route was originally top-roped with the use of a couple of pitons which was extremely brave considering the poor/awful rock quality. It was later fully bolted with expansions and hangers. Two 150mm glue-in anchors were installed 8/6/21. Utilise these plus one of the original hangers to create a solid masterpoint for top-roping.

Lead this at your own risk as rock failure is a possibility. Helmets for the climber and belayer is encouraged.

Maint: Warwick Davis, 8 Jun

Standing start left of 'socialism'. (Usually where the sand stops and gravel starts). Follow short arete up a series of large, jagged pinches, jugs, and chicken heads.

Good for warming up. That's about it.

Maybe it Could be extended by traversing right (above the libertarianism/socialism overhangs) and finishing at the 'Athletes foot' bucket. Would be substantially harder for climber and spotter.

Sit-start under the finish of 'socialism'

Trend right to the base of ' athletes foot.

Long-low traverse.

Optional extension to link'up athletes foot.

Long, low traverse.

Start at the 'Athletes foot' sit start. Traverse left (underclings, and jugs aplenty). 4ish metres. Throw left to a small rail, then bump to a jug.

Optional extension to some highball and higher grade stuff.

Sit start under double jug overhang left of 'gentle breeze'. Short couple of pumpy/balancey moves to the large bucket shaped like a foot.

short sport climb with ample gear

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