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Fixed Gear: Tampering with bolts

Someone has been tampering with bolts so be careful. Check bolts It appears someone has been out there vandalizing the cliff, chopping more bolts and leaving the rubbish on the ground.

Be warned that landowners have been coming and take a photos of climbers and they could be published in local newspapers.

See warning details and discuss

Created 7 months ago - Edited 5 months ago

Seasonality

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Description

Most climbs are bolted with stick clipping in mind so please respect this and clip the first bolt before you climb.

Access issues

Adjoining landowners have expressed concerns that increased climbing traffic could mean trespassing on their properties and environmental damage. At Minto as with all crags it's very important to know and respect the boundaries of the surrounding land and only to travel across the state land. A mud map detailing the correct approach is provided on theCrag:

Note that the Crown Land area is quite small, take care not to trespass onto private property:

(crag sections 2 & 3 are cut-off at the western end by private land.)

Be respectful and considerate of the local landowners. Minimise noise on the approach and while at the crag, it's a natural ampitheatre and sound travels. Drive at a reasonable speed along the unsealed Warwick Rd to minimise dust and carpool where possible.

Practice leave no trace ethics. Keep our footpad tight to the base of the cliff and be mindful not to damage the ferns, orchids and native grasses. Given the proximity to Boonah there's no need for toileting at the crag.

If you experience any issues at the crag please contact ACAQ (https://www.qldclimb.org.au/contact/) with details.

Approach

Drive: From the Dugandan Hotel in Boonah head south on Boonah Rathdowney Rd for 10KM, turn right onto Ganthorpe Rd for 4.5km, turn left onto Warwick Rd (unsealed). Sometimes there is a barbed wire fence across the road. If so make sure you close it after you. After 3km you will go down a slight hill and come to the end of the road. Park here taking care to avoid blocking any gates or the road, and enter through this gate:

and follow the fence-line indicated up to the DNRME sign, and turn towards the crag here:

DO NOT FOLLOW THE NEW FENCE-LINE lower down that runs diagonally in - this is private property:

keep following the old, battered fence-line that is missing the barbedwire up to the DNRME sign as indicated here.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Some old traveller in the pub tells tales of this being the first line done at the crag.

Multiple boulder problems with rests. Short and punchy.

FFA: Rick Helm

Proj, stay off

Stay off please.

Same start as Warrayum's Rest, carries on to the left -Closed Project Please stay off

Straight up pockets, traverse right 2m, head straight up black streak.

FFA: 3 Oct 2019

Link up to avoid the heinous direct boulder problem. Climb Warrayum's Rest to the break and trend right using the two linking hangers - will be around 27, stellar but may need some "attention", steer clear please.

Stay off, please.

Stay off please, needs work.

The name comes from a climber at the crag having the biggest tantrum ever seen and untying his rope, clipping into the anchors and dropping his rope to the ground (Mantrum).

Power endurance and sweet moves are sure to leave you gassed, so milk what you can and power on.

Project please stay off

The anchor at halfway is to facilitate lower off if you don't have a 70m rope. Don't stop here, keep going all the way to the top of the cliff and enjoy what this climb has to offer.

Hard moves separated by good rests up this aesthetic piece of orange wall. Maybe "stout" at 25? needs some consensus, whatever it is, it's class.

Stay off as your belayer may be possibly killed by a large loose block coming off.

Nicer start than DST. A lot of fun. Will be more challenging if you're short - Don't let that stop you though! Best to put a long draw/alpine draw on the second (now the first) bolt.

FFA: ReneeHelm

Thin start (Direct - don't traverse in) brings you to a fun lip and jug haul to victory. Fun climbing and can be rather punchy if this is your limit.

FFA: ReneeHelm

In classic Minto style , I sneak that one in. Open project , not finished bolting.

Set: Radest, 7 Feb

The stunning cream coloured streak. Begin with a tough slab boulder in the grey rock- take a few breaths and get ready for sustained crimpy ‘boltering’ punctuated by the occasional jug - all the way to the anchor.

In good ol’ classic Minto style, start with a crux leaving the ground and keep ‘Cruxing’ up the technical, strong, black-streak. Keep truckn’ to an exciting finish with big moves to the top of the wall.

The dangle of this tourism carrot is sure to make pockets grow.

FFA: tayia jane, 24 May 2020

Start with some fingery climbing up to a good rest in the break. Motor around the headwall above, to a finish that’s sure to get your forearms warmed up.

2nd Bolt is back in.

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