Routes in South East for selected grade

Sit start the left bulge. Rh good finger jug. Lh on sidepull. Mind the fall.

3 stars - One of the best lines at Auburn.

John Newby

Opposite Cooling Tower, climb up to a rocky terrace. Climb across the high rail to out on the right end of the boulder.

1 star - Sit start left of the blocky cave and punch left over big block.

John Newby - 01.24

Sit start right of Rob's V2 matched on the blocky corner, move out to large undercling then to a nice mantle.

Oliver Rickford

2 stars - Sit start in the blocky cave and thug up over the flat edge.

John Newby - 00.05

Hard start from a sit, up the arete to an easy finish.

2 stars - Sit start under right side of the boulder, traverse left of jugs along the break and slap up the left arete.

Start on blocky ledge on the left side of the boulder traverse right into Turtle Power

Sit start matched on the undercling, up and over.

Stand start with high slopey holds. Up and left.

Oliver Rickford

Sit start and over bulge

Stem/smear through small concavity. Watch the fall.Could be a 3 star line if the landing zone was nicer.

Sit start the short boulder with powerful crimps to start.

Short but fun

Start left of the prow, and weave your way up using holds on the face and prow. Never seems to climb the same twice.

Big moves straight up right of the arete.

Around left from Rob likes Jugs somewhere in the middle of this face is a high start from crimps to jugs.

Sit start matched on the plate, traverse left into KOBE!

Sit start the small boulder on good holds, make some run moves and mantle.

Sit start Rh on incut crimp, Lh small crimp. Up on slopes, bust out left and mantle

Stand start Rh side pull, Lh crack side pull. Blast off!

Sit start as for Kaleidoscope but move left before the undercling into the crack for Technicolour to top.

Dynamic move off the undercling.

Sit start on lower ledge, get on ledge and press into diagonal line. Throw for top

1 star - layaways to easy mantle.

Sit start up face and right side of arête.

Up the face on some cool vertical crimps.

Sit start on the left arete with crimp rail. Bump through slopes to mantle.

2 stars

Mantle the start of Mr Miyagi.

1 star - Same sit start, reach right to the jug and up the layaway to easy face

Sit start with the ledge. Same as the first but different.

Sit start on the lowest of the good holds.

Sit start on small crimps, make a move to the lip and mantle.

The best pool and parmy in Biggenden. Climb up the slab past two bolts and then up the zig zagging crack. For full value, clip the anchor with an extender and continue up the slab past 5 bolts.

The best route on the lower wall of the cathedral. A tricky slab that follows the golden water streak. Take a set of nuts.

1. Cool moves pulling onto the arete and up tiered face followed by some thin moves on each bulge.

2. Unprotected scramble up to corner, then plenty of good placements to single bolt anchor and natural pro.

Up slab to thin crack. Pull through a dubious crux and then up hand crack to ledge. Continue up crack to the right and scramble up the slab to a trad belay. It is possible to scramble back down to the ground by heading right.

Hard to get established in the crack, once in groan and grunt your way up the off-width past two obvious crux's to ledges then up faint hand crack to tree belay.

Located along the tape marked track behind the bluff. Up the line of weakness to a tricky section in the middle then continue up the offwidth crack to a small tree. You can walk off from the top.

Stand start wide compression. Rh low on flat pinch jug. LH on obvious sidepull. Fun dynamic movement

Sit start matched on pinch jug, make some lowball moves without dabbing and mantle.

Oliver Rickford

Tiny outcrop of rock on the left, easily walked past when approaching the boulders 'proper'. Sit start, balancy rock left to the crack and up. Surprisingly good for the size of the bloc.

Starting from the low right ledge with hands on the large shelf, 1 easy move left to gain the face wall, exclude all but the first right hand decent foot, straight up the face without the large left hand or the right arete. thin but it's all there. Eliminate problem.

Start with hands beneath obvious overlap, no left or bottom footholds. Slap up the arete and mantle out.

Sit start on undercling, round the corner from 'The tide is high'. Sit start, up and mantle.

Sit start, use some obvious sidepulls and a high foot placement to reach an obvious jug over your head, descend by dropping down left and walking back around to the right

Stand start with hands on slopers furthest right, slap up and mantle.

Oliver Rickford

Stand start off the rock as per Flash or Splash but instead head up and right through obvious line to top out.

Not sure whether a harder sit start may be possible in drier conditions.

Sit start on large jug, pull up your feet and shoot for the lip then mantle.

Oliver Rickford

Sit start with Rh on crimp, Lh sloper. Move up.

Start with left hand on undercling and right hand on right arete. Work your way up the spine feature.

Stand start using crack/ edge, moving up and onto the rounded arete. Climb onto low angle slab to finish.

Up small features to rest then up to balancey bulge, over to anchor.

Up small crack balancy crux, good moves.

Follow crack up to gain a rest then move to balancey finish, stick clip first bolt if needed.

Gain small ledge for first bolt, find better feet and get second bolt, climb rails to crux, over lip to anchors. Stick clip first bolt if needed.

Climb boulder in the grotto to get to the first bolt then up features to a nice balancy slab move to gain anchors.

Stand start, right hand on side pull, left hand on crimp. Move straight up and over the bulge. Big jug/pocket is in but stay out of the corner. Top out to the left of the tree.

Sit start as for Forest Yellies move up to pockets then traverse left along rail and top out above knoblets.

Start inside back of cave climbing out left along shelf to mouth of cave, climbing along mouth of cave to obvious finish jug on the right end of cave, when looking at cave from outside

Start outside left hand side corner of cave, climbing along mouth of cave to finish jug

Start same as Subconscious climbing though middle of cave to end around where Mind crosses roof

The ledge the boulder is perched on is not in. Sit start matched on rail.

Line of rings to ledge, crux boulder problem at top.

Start: Left side of buttress.

Up face to ledge then top. 3m Right of Coral Reef.

Black streak to the L of FOTOS, six RBs to lower-off. Crimpy for three bolts, before moving left into corner with pumpy climbing ensuing.

Rebolted. A rising traverse which begins on the gritty apron to the left. Crappy rock in the lower half soon gives way to more solid terrain with a few delicate, balancy moves.

Five UBs, joining Spike at last bolt. Hard start.

Hard start. Up steep wall past five U-bolts, keeping R of bulge at the top, to double U-bolt belay. Holds have broken off the start, increasing the grade from 18.

Very thin start (direct), quite sustained to the third bolt. First bolt can be gained from the R if you don't have what it takes to do it direct. Five UBs to DUBB.

Clip first bolt and head straight up, or slightly R of bolts. Sustained climbing, very set sequences.

Similar start as to RoP, not as many holds as it looks. Small runout to anchor. Five UBs to DUBB. Excellent climbing.

Now a complete sport route - fully bolted. Fairly hard start, then work out on good holds and heel hooks, clip bolt with chain extender before emerging to crux, gaining the corner. Six UBs to DUBB.

3m R of HE, 6 UBs to DUBB. Clip second and go straight up. For a grade 24 variant, go out under rooflet, boulder crux, clip lip and keep going up.

There's not many roofs you can get a hands-free rest on. This popular testpiece is located 5m L of WOF and 1m R of arête below overhanging, triangular prow below roof. Up and out the prow (awesome jughandle threads) then move into roof flake while copping that rest with a styleboss leg-hook maneuver over the top of the prow. Clip RB on lip and then power up the wall above (RB) to ledge. Wade carefully through the lichen up and R to the recently installed rap station.

Climb Woosah until you reach the large ringbolt where you would normally move left to the arete. Instead move right and up into the corner, before moving back left to finish up Woosah at its last bolt. Confusing, I know.

Starting about 30metres left of JG on obvious platform, with a gully/scree on the right. Scramble up to starting platform, but can belay from the ground. This is the right of the three close together climbs on the platform. Climb the jugs for four rings, before a hard topout. The climb completely changes character, as you move up the slab staying right of corner feature, while encountering a few sketchy moves on gritty rock. Anchor is way over the top out of sight.

The middle of the three routes on the platform. Steep jug pulling for three bolts, until a tricky move right to topout. Keep moving up the slab, staying on the left side of the corner feature, finishing with some gritstone style trickery to anchor.

Climb up corner trending right to pull the lip out left past 4 RBs to anchor on large ledge.

One move to a BR, then up and swing L around arête to pockets (FH). Crux moves above this (?) up the blank arête lead to a break and another BR. To finish, "let's bail" off to big tree on R to avoid the mank.

Start: The arête 5m L of corner.

Marked BAM. Four BRs and optional nuts to chains (straight up). A LHV was also climbed a month later.

Start: 3m L of arête

Previously the softest 22 in Queensland. Apologies to everyone who ticked this as their first at that grade. Still, it does offer some of the best rock at Brooyar. 6m R of TDC. Recently rebolted with three FHs to lower-off. Has a great mono pocket to play with.

The orange arête 1m L of TDC. 2 FHs to ledge, then up past a third FH to the top. You may wish to stickclip the first.

In between TFTF and BED, three FHs to chain. Herb retrobolted an old saul squires solo route.

"Big, evil, overhung crack thing". The R-leaning overhung corner to ledge, then up crack to top. A bit grungy.

Left of the crack is a nice orange corner and face, now rebolted with RBs. Start in the crack corner. Up hard start on gear. Up into beautiful orange corner (wires). Clip bolt on R and step onto the excellent face. Up with #1.5 SLCD and RB to rooflet below black face. Up L onto this huecoed face (cruxy) clipping final RB (don't clip too early) and then up to the top (Chain).

Hard start, then nice easy balancy climbing