Routes in South East for selected grade

Starts from the crimp in the middle of the wall. Big move to a very high edge then an even higher mantle finish.

Figure out your footing and stand-start on the smooth crimps. Mantle!

Sit start in the chasm matched on blocky triangle slope. Do some dancing, make some 3d moves to a glorious top out.

Oliver Rickford

Classic slab problem stand starting on the large sloping edge. Follow holds facing the wrong direction and whip out your indoor slabbing technique to complete a desperate finishing sequence.

Found on the western side of the overexposed boulder. High compression start. Heel and mantle.

1 star - Sit start in the middle of the main boulder using chock stones to pull on. Throw left and traverse using small crimps for hand and massive ledge for feet to finish up '3a'

Sit start at Bush Poo and straight up on small crimps.

Oliver Rickford

John Newby - 00.46

Starts on slopers under the slab. Traverse right, gain the lip and hope you brought spare undies for the mantle up the corner. (The Hydrology boulder is likely to require draining of a pool which forms after rain. There may be a garden hose way back in the cave at the start of Birth Canal. Set up a siphon and come back later)

3 stars - Sit start/hang on the big hueco under the overhang and climb out through steep big moves.

John Newby - 1.03

2 stars - Same start as Wanderlust, but reach out left to the boulder just left of the blunt arete up crimps to a thoughtful mantle.

Right of arete with tech, layback compression moves. Sit start left hand with wobbly side pull, right hand low on side pull. Just the right height with a good landing.

Squat/stand start matched on the slopy pinch, move left through small crimps to a large throw to the lip. Mind the drop.

Oliver Rickford

Sit start Lh crimp and Rh sidepull.

Big jugs and big moves, from the obvious jug on the left to the next and to the top. Would be 3 stars if you didn’t have to build the landing zone above the pool.

Sit start on sloping ledge right, enter a big crucifix left or match sloper to gain the big ledge. Top out left top out just right of the hanging arête.

Stand start matched on slopey the crimp rail. Chockstone is not in.

Start matched on the obvious undercling in the dank cavelet. Burly move up to good jams at lip and turn the corner. Will need to build a landing or have moist pads to send. Probably quite hard

Sit start under the arete and swing right side of the arete and up.

Jump to the shallow scoop and mantle.

Mantle the rounded arête.

Sit start for Gakusei, small crimps and a big sloping slap.

3 stars - Stay low and cut right with hands in the sloping dishes.

Deceptively hard start hanging from the dish. Damien couldn't do it after an hour of trying. John 'Kiwi-crushed' it within 5 minutes.

Climbs right after clipping the first bolt of Gluten Free.

Extension traverse of High Tide around the arete to finish the top out of But I'm holding on.

Sit start in the hollow underneath the boulder with right hand on the prominent undercling and left on the very average side-pull using feet on the left (don't dab on the supporting boulder). Short sequence of powerful moves on terrible holds to gain 'jugs' for an awkward mantle over lip.

Fantastic set of moves that add up to maybe 1m of climbing.

Squat/stand R pinch and L sidepull under wave feature. Move your way up the arête. It goes without saying that chockstones are out. Try not to dab on Hazza's Hangout Boulder.

Oliver Rickford

Sit start with LH on side pull, RH on large sidepull. Follow the rail to a exciting top out over the lip.

Killer little overhang. Fun, punchy moves. Lower-off. Find a gullible seconder to clean.

Start 2 metres right of Little Wednesday. A few compression moves lead to a steep rib. Finish as LW.

A Link-Up. Up 2 bolts of right of passage then to 3rd bolt of dream catcher. Traverse up and right into the crux of shake and bake (avoid the temptation to drop down a few moves to the start of the crux) and finish up S&B. Changes the crux a fair bit and adds a dozen or more moves to the start. I enjoyed it.

Stickclip ringbolt in corner. Scramble up to start ledge. Fierce layback straight off the deck (poor shorties!), then onto good holds on the slab (RB). Up slab and then juggy wall (RB) to sloping topout and useless anchor back from the edge.

Start 2m R of CTBH the right trending line of bolts under the scary block. Crank around the lip and climb up to DBB.

A linkup. Central to Blackheath start into Rattler slab crux.

A linkup. Crank out the moves on the Mary Valley start and keep that train rolling through the Blackheath finish.

Climb left from the corner then blast straight up passing several RBs until you reach the DBB.

Was a mini-route, now a boulder problem. Single ringbolt on white wall. Boulder problem to dyno, then up to tree. V5 or 26

A contrived variant finish to HC. Start as for HC to the third FH (clip with a long sling).Traverse 2m R to FH on face. Continue R, then power up to good hold, clipping a final FH back L. Finish easily.

Sharp pocketed climbing for masochists.

Start: 5 metres left of great devoid.

Go up SHGTTD and continue in the YCT extension. Adds more climbing to a short route but no change in grade.

Continue past anchor and pass three more bolts on headwall above to a chain. Makes an otherwise small route a little longer.

The holds bite. A crimper problem to an easy finish up the slab. Quite good.

4m L of LF past the amazing pockets.

Featuring some very burly undercling/pinch moves, nice sequences and a balance slab finish. Six RBs to anchors. Bloody great climbing, but still needs a good clean.

On the Steep wall under Reverse Psychology ledge.

Stick clip first bolt, ruffle your feathers, spread your wings then ascend this 45 degree overhanging arete.

3 RB to mantle and top out trending Left

Sit-start on two crimps, big move up to the feature rail and continue up for top out.

Sit start as per project incubus and head right, topping out over black wing.

Sit start on small crimps, desperately acquire the positive high right handhold and balance your way up the face to the top direct.

Oliver Rickford

Sit start at Holistic Dectitive Agency and finish up Project Blackwing.

Sit start at Wolff-Parkinson-White, up and through the overhang. The ledge is eliminated, only the crimp on the left most edge is in. This is the OG line - a large loose block was removed from the ledge for safety concerns, only the crimp was going to be usable. Long reach up the slab to gain the mantle.

James Hembury

Stand start with undercling and low arete for hands. Work your way up arete and slab to top out.

James Hembury

Stand start left of the juggy meat wrap with both hands jamming the obvious crack. Keeping left of Memento Mori, move up and through the overhang to gain the victory bucket crimp. Nothing slab direct to top out. Avoid using the tree.

Oliver Rickford

Start directly below the tree (Rh side of the arete) with high left hand sloper/ pinch & right hand on the juggy sidepull, traverse left around the bulge and finish as per Memento Mori.

Sit Start on the sloppy two hand ledge/pocket. Move to the right through pockets and over the large juggy ledge (this is out, do not use). Finish matching the good crimp.

Sam Bycroft

Fantastic, absorbing vertical climbing with a punchy finish. This could now be the best single pitch sport route in the Glasshouses at the grade.

Start: Just R of 'Squealer'

The right most line on the wall before the corner.

Start: Start as for 'Howler' and veer right. Wailer has a separate 1st bolt 1 meter right of 'Howler'.

Two bolts up the corner to ledge. Step across the void onto the wall, and up past four bolts to lower-off. Take a #1 cam for the top or dare the run out. A couple of bouldery moves in a breezy position!

Same as for Procrastihowler but head R again and through the Wailer crux to finish the line.

Still needs cleaned stay off for now.

Adds a little more pumpy madness to the classic Madder.

Start up Wailer and head left after the second last bolt, finishing up Howler clipping its last bolt.

Climb As for Doctor Pinocchio but at it's last bolt traverse right into the crux of Overseer and finish up this. A long link-up with an epic view at the chains.

Climb Maponus' first pitch but instead of heading left to The Court Jester's anchor continue directly up past three FH's to the anchor. Adds a lot more pump and air.

Link Up - Climb Voluptuous then at the last bolt head Left into the savage headwall of Dagda.

Start: 4m R of Hungry Beast at bolt on rope traverse.

Up orange stone to rooflet and wonder jug. Turn the roof (crux) to huge undercling flake, then final headwall.

Start: At the far right of the fixed rope. Joins the route to the left after four bolts after the steep part of the wall. Good climbing, and a bit tricky to read.

One of Tibro's best 26's. Diabolical looking moves off the starting ledge. Anchors on a small ledge in a corner.

FH’s and fixed wires. Lower off

1. Head left and up from alcove anchor to generous ledge, 10m of grade 4 climbing with no bolts. Clip FH and swing out right off the end of the ledge and into featured steepness. Up through infinity and beyond deviating left to a short corner and then stepping right to a belay stance to anchor. Some long slings will help alleviate drag.

2. Easily up and slightly left to first FH, then more or less straight up steep wall trending right slightly towards the end. Steep climbing with hands free rests when you need them, turn the last lip and enjoy the easy slab to anchor. Outrageous position and unique features make this climb a Tibro classic.

Decent: Have your second tag up a 60m rope or tag line and rap back to the ground. The longest free hanging rappel of the Summit Caves!

A direct second pitch to OOTBAITB.

1. 35m (22) Climb OOTBAITB's first pitch onto bird shit ledge watch the drag (natural belay #2 C4 handy).

2. 15m (25) The line then goes straight through the improbable V of the main roof and obvious slots in second half of roof (4 FH in roof). A well protected but airy lead which finishes with the leader 10m+ out from the belay. Very technical moves with stretchy bridging, steep roof moves and a few funky jams bring you to the exposed traverse out right to finish the pitch (#2 C3 handy in roof) (C4 set .3-3 for whole route. Some doubles handy). A bolted rap station on the ledge allows you to rap off here (2x 60m ropes)

3. 25m (23) Complete the third pitch of OOTBITB, the obvious crack a few metres right of the belay.

The obvious right trending line, to the right of Out Of The Blue. Follow shallow crack system and boulder to the ledge aka The Morgue.

The most exposed climb in South East Queensland, combined with high lactic levels will have your head spinning.

Start between ITTM and Raptures.

Climb the deceptively steep blunt face with bold moves, nearing the top clip the only 'thank God' bolt and say a final prayer, wild bouldery moves lead to a desperate mantle into the Morgue. Bullet rock with decent gear all the way.

Short and powerful route that could be used as a harder direct start to Punks Not Dead. It climbs the right side of the small cave with amazing rock features. 4 closely spaced FH's with very bouldery moves. At the ledge hand traverse left along sloping lip then mantle up to horn jug.

A short, exposed, burly route on quality rock. Starts from the cave belay atop the second pitch of Trojan and the top of Four Seasons. Should give you grief. Slide out right of the cave (two FH's) to exposed bolted arête. Up to powerful under-clinging and lay backing in a steep, spectacular position. Lower-off.

Climbs through the airy featured roof into the mind boggling slab overhang corner. A 60m rope will get you back to the ground.

Start in the gully left of Short and Sweet, high first bolt. Follow easy crack that sickles rightwards. When it ends head straight up to clip bolt in shallow left-facing corner below a bulge. Once established on bulge, head out left to slopey edges and laybacks (two more FHs) and a lower-off at the top left of the wall.

1. 20m (22) Great rock, never too hard, just hold on. Just right of Morning of the Earth, high first bolt. Slick, Arapiles-style face climbing.

2. 15m (25) Straight up from belay passing FH onto large ledge. Clip FH on hanging wall and swing your way up this (two more FHs). Gain finger-sized crack (trad) that sends you left into the 'Bell cave' belay. The hard section is short and steep. Powerful moves sees you into one of Tibro's most private areas. Watch your back.

Decent: 30m abseil or two shorter ones back to the ground.

Superb bulgy rock in the lower half. Start as for first bolt of Digital Revolution then take the right line of FHs through the smooth bulge and up the easier slab finish to shared last bolt and anchor with The Digital Revolution. Bolts 2 & 3 are tricky to clip due to small holds and poor feet.

Line of black bolts to the right of high definition. Contrived as it is awkward. Stay out of the "Nuts in my Mouth" crack on the right.

Crack feature to the right of Free Streaming. Good climbing with a rare jam crux. Finishes up the last 5 bolts of Free Streaming.

Punchy boulder problem off the deck leads to a hands free rest ledge. The business starts on the upper head wall. Thin and technical boulder problem leads to a tricky mantle finish.

Tough little unit. Starts 2m right of Kitch. Thin and technical climbing past two FHs to stance. #1 Friend or yellow Alien to chains.

Start 3m left of Acid. Bouldery start past 4 FH then joins Acid until it's second last bolt where it breaks right, heading up the corner feature past final FH to finish at Acid's chains.

Link up. Climb Acid to it's second last bolt, then head straight up through the corner feature that is the last section of BFI, passing a FH to final mantle. Avoids the cruxes of Acid and BFI. The antithesis to Idaho Sunshine.

Start 2m R of Forsaken beneath deep orange shield of rock and steepest overhang. Up you go.

On the slightly overhanging wall on the back of the diamond. Low start to the left of the tree with right hand on sloping arete and left hand sidepull on the face. Use various forms of wizardry to traverse up and left to the middle of the boulder and a commiting mantle.

Oliver Rickford

Sit bunched on stacked crimps: good upper L crimp (R start hold of Into The Bush) and low R crimp. Huge move up and right to the best hold you can reach. This line doesn't veer left like Into The Bush.

Contrived test of dyno strength!

As for AWNBS but finishing up Thrash and Splash.

Start Following AWNBS, then before you get to water dragon fly. Head up the taller part of the wall to the higher jumping spot past some foliage.

Far left upper route. 7-8 FHs to DUBB. Access via Friends in High Places, then traverse L to DFHB on ledge.

Start at RA's anchor. Steep stuff straight above the belay. Traverse L under roof to wacky slab and a rest above. Huge jugs and horns comprise the final third. 11 U-bolts to DUBB. Second to clean. Rope length warning: It is more than 30m from anchor to ground. Suggestion: leader lowers, rope toss to pull back to belay, second to clean, lower second to ground, pull rope to start belay, rap off.

Climb this as one pitch from the ground. Climb FIHP, extending the last clip, and climb directly up the wall above past 5 RBs to wild conclusion which resembles mantling the end of a diving board.

Cleared for Take Off into the crux of Nuts, combines best of both routes.

Start up TDLW for three UBs, then trend slightly L past FHs up the ever steepening wall past some crazy looking horns and the odd dodgy aid bolt. The top horn (the biggest at Coolum) rings when you tap it! Ride 'em cowboy!