Routes in South East for selected grade

Enter the funky scoop fang feature, mantle the lip from the inside.

Stomp up the laid back arête.

Sit start up the crack. Lelf of Another Ned Rock.

Little trad climb. Take a big cam

Start: Below the starting boulder of '2 For Tea'.

This is a good beginner route with great gear up a corner finishing at a tree belay.

Start: 8m R of the Let's Bail arete.

Probably not good. The crack downhill from the big tree on the descent ramp and below the boulder. Tree belay well back.

The obvious yellow lichenous crack 2m L of T&T. Tree belay well back.

Start as for the original. At second BR, move R to break (gear) then up to BR and top.

More forgettable climbing on the access path.

Start: Just right of obvious overhang.

Right most route. 3 RB's to top, rap off tree.

The slightly overhung corner/chimney capped by a large boulder on the small outcrop to the right of the previous routes. Sandy, sketchy and harder than it looks.

Rune

Home

Odins Wolf

Sit start with hands in jugs, and not much for feet. Head up.

Stand start with left hand on arete and right hand on jug. Head up the arete.

Pleasant climbing up good rock.

Start: Back down 5m L from BB amongst trees at fallen log. First climb on LH wall of the 'Slider' gully.

Up onto broad ledge (FH) then go R to arête. Up passing many good stances and four more FH's. Finish as for MSTU with wires in obvious seam to chain.

Start: 5m down R of MSTU.

A time-honoured bumbly classic. So named because of its abrasive properties, this route follows the large, prominent chimney on the E face. When you're wedged in the chimney, spare a thought for when this was climbed with nothing more than a rope and a couple of slings!

Start: Beneath the L-leaning pocketed crack 5m or so L of where the E face walking track meets the rock (35m L of the Caves Route). Marked 'CC'.

1. 35m (-) Originally the crux pitch. Up face, then follow the crack with bridging moves to a rest position. Up face above passing a PR to large ledge. Bridge up the gully to the second ledge. Belay from collection of small-ish trees.

2. 25m (-) Up easy wall (good pro) to tree. Up and L to enter the chimney. Climb up wide groove to big sling belay in the 'Bomb Shelter'.

3. 17m (11) (crux). Harder since repeat ascentionists have trundled some chockstones used by original party. Bridge up into the chimney to stance and pro. Chimney up past chockstones and hidden PRs (on back wall) to ledge. Belay off large chockstone at back of ledge.

4. 15m (-) Continue up chimney until it finishes at a ledge and TB. Take care, the ledge is covered in loose rock which will rocket down the chimney if released. From the belay ledge scramble down and right some 30m along Spooky Ledge to locate the chains at the top of p3 of Remains of the Day. From there, 2 x30m and 1 x 20m gets you to the deck. Alternatively you can bush bash up and right from Spooky ledge to meet Caves Route at the Big Scrub above Cave 2

Start at LH side of Cave 2, up the arete on blocky holds, no protection, then easier climbing up the slab to anchors above slab. Belay option available from one of the trees in Cave 2 lhs.

A very rare occasion where the original ascentist advises climbers to TR it first, rather than try to onsight it.

Start just right of the initials "SD". Up terraced ledges, scant pro - first viable pro is 15m up broken, treacherous rock. top out on the shoulder above. (This is an old school route, so expect it to be more 14/15ish. It has a reputation for being run-out with no pro.)

Just left of Cave 5. Quite high first bolt. Past 4 spaced FHs to chains.

Start about 70m down right from the Caves Route at low angled wall. Up 15m of slab below a small buttress. Then up centre of buttress to finish at steelwood trees in a grassy area. The Caves Route is 10m left at this point.

Start about 10m right of Keloid at the foot of a scoop of easy angled slabs. This route is considerably undergraded and underprotected. Additionally, all former belays are now effectively absent. Proceed with caution, or better yet, not at all.

1. 36m Up the slabs and diagonally left across the top side of a gully. Continue on leftward trend until steepness eases to worn slabs. Continue on up to the left for another 4m into a gully and dodgy (e.g. non-existent) tree belay.

2. 18m Climb back down and traverse directly right along small ledges to piton below groove. Continue right and slightly down for 3m to twin pegs. Rusty and not recommended as a belay.

3. 29m (crux) Left a bit, then straight up to base of groove. Up this with adequate pro to sloping rock and tree belay. From here, scramble up and left to connect with Caves Route.

1. 40m Straight up to twin peg belay at the end of Wasp's second pitch

2. 29m Same as Pitch 3 of Wasp

Start between Wasp and Desperation Wall. This route is under-protected, beware!

1. 26m (crux) Up easy slab, onto wall and straight up, then trend slightly right over bulge, to peg, then straight up a right trending groove on the left side of the bulge, then slightly left of white streaks, hard move onto belay ledge.

2. 38m Climb directly up from ledge to find a peg at 12m, continue straight up to overhanging wall, then a short traverse left to the base of the groove and finish as per Wasp.

A great, easy 135m multipitch route although pro can be pretty sparse on p2&3 and non-existant on p5. A good initiation to what to expect from Tibro multipitches. Can be done in three pitches with 60m rope.

Start: About 50m L of Candy Mountain at big corner/gully, behind a rock apron. Marked 'BO' (very faint).

★★ Black Orpheus 10 - "BO"

1. 30m (7) Very easily up gully on solid jugs and good pro to big ledge and trad belay.

2. 25m (10) Up rocky corner/slab (right of ledge) Then left to mount short wall (crux), onto slab & up this gully (R) with a couple of bushes offering protection to big ledge & bush belay.

   max on ★★ Black Orpheus 10 - Crux of pitch 2

3. 25m (4) Climb up edgy slab in an exposed position with minimal protection until it curves back left & you reach a tree-lined ledge above. Scramble up L to the top of the ledge. Originally, the belay made use of the "Zombie Tree", however it is preferable that modern ascents make use of gear in groove about 5m above to establish a belay and protect this historic but weary flora from further abuse. You can choose to run pitch 2&3 together, beware that you may be out of earshot of your belayer. This pitch requires a cool head: exposed pitch & minimal pro!

4. 32m (10) Run-out start, then bridge up chimney (crux), which is better than it looks (very good gear), at top LH side of chimney, traverse L along the rising ledge and into corner, follow this up right over blocks to top of gully & crack & tree belay.

5. 23m (3) Up very easy blocky slab (no gear) to big tree in Cave 3. (Some choose to run pitch 4&5 together, on a 60m+ rope, be aware you WILL be out of earshot.) Finish up the 'Caves Route', or descend via rap station at mouth of Cave 1. Alternatively, you can climb (on belay) over to the chains on Zeitgeist & abseil down this to get back to the start of the route.

Start 7m left of Orpheus. A fine route, avoids rubbish. Pro and rock good except a small patch on Pitch 2.

1. 50m Up grey prow, over flat topped pillar. Trend slightly right to tree.

2. 40m Following left-trending diagonal crack to tree at 25m. Before tree, up on good clean rock, then trend right to shallow block corner left of wide crack.

3. 50m Up corner then directly up to belay in bowl below cave. Tremendous pitch!

4. 10m Scramble up to cave.

Start about 20m right of Black Orpheus. Fairly contrived.

1. 25m Up an open rock gully to a tree belay.

   Bruce Schneider on ★ Orpheus 10 - Orpheus pitch 1

2. 29m (crux) Trend right over a horrendous flake, then diagonally up right, to tree belay.

3. 27m Up slab trending right for gear, or straight up (very run-out), to a line of small steelwood trees. Left along dirt ledge to the face right of Black Orpheus chimney & tree belay. This ledge is the same as the end of BO pitch 3.

4. 28m Up onto the wall right of the chimney. Traverse rightward around to rubbly gully. Up this gully (LHS is the better option), to a tree belay.

5. 40m Finish as for the fourth pitch of Prometheus 1 up in Cave 4.

Climbs the white streaked slab 3m L of prominent corner, just L of Prometheus I. Crap pro, good rock.

Climb the prominent corner you pass on you way to the start of Prometheus I. Good gear and ok climbing but you end up climbing through an unpleasant bush to top out, hence the name. Continue up or scramble down Prometheus I. Named but FA not listed because it has probably been climbed heaps of times since the 1960s!

Easy climbing up blocky ledges. Shares anchors with DITR.

Easy climbing up blocky moves to anchors.

Access: From the old climber's carpark, take the right fork of the Tibrogargan track, heading north. Follow the track until you reach some chairs and a picnic table, after which you'll ascend some steps to find a small trail leaving the main track on the left. Follow this to the base of Candy Mountain. Around 15m past the right hand side of Candy Mountain is a vegetated weakness marked NEB.

Standard rack up to #3 Camalot, focus on small wires and cams.

Warning: 7th Pitch (crux) is dangerous and does not come recommended. It features a manky old bolt ladder which has not fared well after 50 years in a coastal climate. Check "Escape from NEB" or "Sideshow Bob" for bail options.

1. 20m (-) Easily up gully to tree belay

2. 28m (-) Up for 5m then right around the buttress below some loose blocks. Keep traversing around to the right, ascending slightly to gain a spacious ledge and natural gear belay.

3. 37m (-) Ascend right from ledge to short wall. Traverse this to the right and above peg in block. Now ascend tending right slightly up to tree belay.

4. 27m (-) Cross to the left on sloping ramp up to tree belay below buttress. Stance on spacious ledge.

5. 33m (-) Straight up on good rock to peg belay below steep wall.

6. 18m (-) Traverse right around buttress and up into a wooded gully, below a steep, yellow groove. Tree belay. You can escape from the route here by traversing left to meet Cave 4.

7. 37m (11 crux) Up wall on left, traverse over big loose block and then up to yellow patch below steep wall. Up bolt ladder with hard moves and death blocks galore, then traverse right below big block to belay. Buyer beware.

8. 33m (-) Pass under block traversing left, then straight up tending slightly right to small bush and ledge. Bolt belay.

9. 33m (-) Straight up past mangled bolt (useless) to second bolt. Delicate move past this straight up past two more mangled bolts. Gain easier ground. Tree belay.

10. 33m (-) Scramble out to left on sloping ledge which leads to NE shoulder.

Descent: Tourist Track or Caves Route (4x raps)

Start about 100m right from NE Buttress below obvious large chimney (10m left of the pillar with FH's). This route is loose and has tricky route finding.

1. 33m Up wall below chimney. Tricky move left around overhanging flake. Move up trending diagonally left until vertical ascent can be made to the base of the chimney. Ascend chimney (narrow and strenuous) climbing out onto main rock wall when chockstone is reached. Climb onto this chockstone and continue on to top of buttress to large tree belay.

2. 37m Vertical ascent for 8m then horizontal traverse right to seams. Straight up to a small niche/alcove then belay off natural gear.

3. 40m Delicate move out of belay up left. Ascend until short right traverse can be made to scunge-filled crack. Ascend vertically about 7m and then traverse left, up and out of crack. Tree runner. Continue ascent through scunge until a diagonal right traverse brings you to a large tree belay below a blank wall.

4. 37m (11 crux) Climb steep ramp in front of belay tree to tree runner and ascend onto vertical wall. Climb directly over loose holds, leading to a delicate traverse on small holds. Handholds around corner of bulge lead to wide shelf and tree belay.

5. 40m Straight up over extremely sloping horizontal strata to ramp. Follow ramp right until you get to a tree belay.

6. 37m Straight up over good holds to NE Shoulder.

A great beginner crack route - perfect for practicing placing trad. Follow the curving crack just to the right of 'Armageddon' to that route's bolt anchor.

Start 2m L of 'Star Dust'. Marked "N".

Straight up past 3 RBs. New anchor over lip. Rebolted 2014.

Start 2m L of 'Nebula'. Marked "OT".

Climb straight up past 3 RBs to the DBB. Rebolted 2014.

Traverse right to left, starting up Brazil and clipping first bolt, then follow the easy line about midway up the wall, clipping a bolt on each climb, to finish up through the last bolt and to the anchors on Do Not Shit in the Woods

Just left of the two 17s. Up to the first RB, on good jugs, crux is getting past this, then easy moves to the chains.

Follow the cliff line past 'Black Hole' for about 80m. Start at the black tree half a metre back from the cliff. Marked "SD".

Follow the line of 5 BRs trending L (more so after the 4th BR) to the 'Synchronous Orbit' DBB.

Start 3m L of 'Space Dust'. Marked "G".

Follow 4 BRs tending L to the 'Synchronous Orbit' DBB. Quite runout, particularly to the 1st bolt. The 4th bolt is also the 5th bolt on 'Space Dust' and is easy to miss.

Start 3m L of 'Synchronous Orbit'. Marked "S".

Follow the line of 4 BRs trending R at the top to the 'Synchronous Orbit' DBB.

2m R of Flat Battery. A sandbagged bouldery, slabby route. In other words a mega classic! Retro'd with 3 FH and chains.

Start 6m R of 'Sexy Legs'.

Start 5m R of 'Breakaway'.

Up wide crack then trend L up slab to finish as per 'Breakaway'.

Start at the end of the 'Acid' ravine.

Awful chimney.

Start about 15m R of 'Good Vibrations'.

Climbs the opposite side of the 'Acid' buttress. Adequate pro but not so good.

Start at the 'Present And Accounted For' anchor.

Traverse R and up to finish at the 'Absentia' anchor. No protection.

Start at the DBB at the top of 'Absentia'.

Up the wide groove above 'Absentia'. Limited protection.

Up the small slab 4m left of Icehouse to the crack with good protection to the tree ledge with belay chains.

Marked 'RS'. Well named. Easy groove at far R of crag.

Marked 'SL'. Straight up crack with good gear to ledge. Finish up easy but poorly protected pocketed face as for 'Walk The Line'.

Marked 'ML'. Up the crack, over the small bulge and up to top.

Marked 'AL'. Good easy crack climbing up a nice groove.

Marked 'FL'. Up the crack right of ledge with tree on it.

Climb the pillar left of 'Fine Line' and continue on up. Good gear. The infamous "loose pillar" has been bolted to the cliff with room for gear behind.

Marked 'AT'. Pillar to sinuous thin crack, then past vegetation to steep juggy top.

Marked 'B'. Climb up the R side of the pillar with poor pro to start, then R up the juggy face crack. Crux is poorly protected.

Marked 'CL'. Enjoyable but under-protected climbing. Take large cams.

Start 15m L of 'Srama'. The cracky weakness up the middle of the left most piece of climbable wall. Meow!

From 'Slow Motion Grass Smoker' 's second BR, step 1m R and climb onto slab. Climb this for 6m then traverse R and up to 'Purple Pack' 's DBB. Very runout at top.

Start 5m L of 'Acid Dropper'. Climb the big jugs, slinging them for pro, and trend slightly right to below second smooth red slab and BR. Up slab easily to top with no pro. Belay on DBB. Limited pro.

Directly under bush at 10m, in the centre of the arete. A solo problem, no gear. A couple of balancy moves and smears. Downclimb.

Start at blunt arete with line of RBs about 10m L of 'Acumen'.

Fun, well-protected beginner lead. Climb up slabby L-tending arete past 7 RBs to DBB.

Start: about 30m right of NOTLF. Up with the buttress on your right. The gear is terrible but at least there's not much of it. Nice climbing and bridging moves at the top protected by 2 FH's.

Follows the obvious weakness & 4 FHs, up left of dang fool. Fun moves up to a committing finish. Now with easy to use anchor.

Start: a few metres Left of A Bad Dose Of Rigamortice. Up easy slab on pockets and jugs past three carrots, then traverse out Right to chains on ABDOR.

Start: As for Pockets Of Fun. Up to big ledge, then climb a bit Right and up to first FH a few metres up. Then up on good pockets to chains, passing another 2 FHs.

Easy beginner lead climb. Starts to the right of Maiden Voyage.

5m right of last bolted route "Bug off". Climbs past dodgy flake to high pockets, finishing at a tree belay on a vegetated ledge.

Better gear and climbing than it seems from the ground. Take a size 2 & 3 camalot to protect top section, and a sling on a low knobby jug protects the main climbing.

2016 route description: 230m from the base of the mountain to the top of the shoulder.

Start: Starts about 400m R of Mr Busy pillar near the southern end of the west wall. The beginning of the route is painted with a very small WB mark. Up zigzagging over easy rock for 70m or so and bush-bash up through low scrub and over bands of rock to find the line of least resistance to reach the big ledge below the rock face (this is the ledge that serves the Underworld routes). Walk to the right at the end of the ledge, the first pitch was marked with a white arrow but we think is now worn off.

1. 30m Up a gully to a vegetated area. An alternative to this section is to chimney up a fissure 7m to the left, walk up and right for about 20m, then up into another vegetated ledge to the base of a clean rock face with a tight chimney on the right and a gully on the left. A distinctive feature here is a white triangle on the rock just few metres above. Tree Belay.

2. 30m Climb the gully on the left up to a ledge then keep on going up a chimney with a hard move past a slabby wedged block to a bulge. Belay on gear below the overhangs (2 big hexes and a #4 cam).

3. 10m Traverse left past a rusty piton and downclimb with care to a gum tree at the base of the main chimney leading to Shell Rock. Belay from the gum tree. Short pitch to avoid rope drag.

4. 20m Up the dirty small chimney with hard moves below a twin groove gully. Tree and gear belay.

5. 29m Up the left groove (choss and mud), cross over and in through the front door of Shell Rock. Belay slinging doors and features.

6. 20m Out the back door of Shell Rock then up and into a broken chimney and slightly right on thin slabs to a ledge and Belay Chains.

From here bush-bash for another 20m or so to the top of Beerwah west shoulder and walk along the ridge, skirting left around the knob and across to the hikers route. The old description can be found on the Qurank guide.

Alan Frost, Dave MacGibbon 1956

Follow line of right trending bolts to chains. The first bolt is an Allen head, and watch the loose blocks above the 4th bolt. Rap off down "The Nut".

Straight up the line of bolts, then at the 4th bolt to avoid the choss above trend left to pick up the last 2 bolts of "Burnt Cookies". Named after Debra.

3 bolts to DBB below roof.

1. 26m (12) Initialled, Start at the "GW" marker to high first carrot. Continue from here to top passing 4 more carrots. Mar 2020 anchors replaced.

2. -m (-) project...

Start two ridges west of the Central Rib, at the base of the large, clean wall on the south face. Up left to a sloping ledge. Traverse leftward under an overhang to a grassy ledge. Up a rather water-worn groove to the right of a corner. up rightward over slabs to a projecting rock, right of an overhang. Up the slabs below the overhand and then up the groove and into a cave. Out of the cave to a crack on the left of an overhang.

Start about 500m right of Mopoke Slabs. The climb commences just to the left of 'Barrier Wall'. Follows up a series of slabs until the veranda is reached. Traverse to the right for about 30m until a large prominent rib bounding the south and east faces is reached. A difficult chimney is surmounted which leads to the crest of the rib. 115m of climbing on the face of this immense rib leads to a belt of scrub below the summit pyramid. The final wall is well provided in knobbly excrescences and a direct route is followed over this wall to the summit.

Now the second route at the crag; look for the prominent jug, about 6-7m up, up the double cracks, till they merge, straight up to grass tuft & anchors.

Start: about 5m left of ITOS, at a vague line of weakness, below the start of the overhanging blocks at the top. Easy climbing with spaced gear. Up to DBB & rap.

This is an old school grade 10, runout, with poor gear in the lower half, treat it as a 12. Start:

1. 35m 10 Roughly 10m left of WAD, at the shallow, right facing corner & cracked block. Up to this, offering some gear, then up slab above on scant gear, to blocks & vegetation, through this, up slab to headwall & continue through the roof, then trend right to a small ledge & tree belay (still there? 52yrs later?).

2. 45m 10 Up through roof & onto slab above & easier territory (no indication given as to belay options here).

Start: 5m left of Acquitted, at pockets below the smooth right facing corner. Up these on gear, then up the smooth corner with adequate gear available, slightly right at top blocks, up a thin crack to trad belay at 15m. Traverse 10m left to tree & rap station.

About 1m left of Mistaken Identity: thin crack or weakness in the rock. Up this, with no gear, to top, then traverse 2m right to rap anchors on MI. The original ascentist graded it at 10. I would take that with a grain of salt, especially given that there's no gear or protection on it. Bold Climbing.