Cania Gorge Guide

An deceptive little sucker... Quite a nice splitter despite the tree guarding the start! The first obvious splitter crack you come to after The Castle, walking east.

Up the right side of the broken face. Quite a committing top section.

The broken face just round the corner from the small cave. Follow the line of lease resistance with plenty of nut placements.

Climbs up the centre of the pillar just to the right of the large cave ending in a spectacular position on top of the pillar with great views to the Dam. To reach belay pull around lip of cave and traverse carefully across mossy wall to belay at base of left leaning corner. Climbs corner direct slinging tree at half height to juggy face above finishing on top of pillar. Downclimb easy face to rap off tree to clean.

In the main roof section of The North. Follows the high corner roof crack, starting off eerie hanging diving boards.

Average rock quality and potential wasps.

Just left of 'Grum on the Bound'. Undercut start and pumpy.

Named after a faithful friend who is so wiped he couldn't make the trip this Easter. Tricky start to slaby finger crack breach the first overhang on jugs to hands/ finger crack with a few hand hold to the second over hang get some exposure navigating this overhang to chimney top out super fun climb!

Voices of the Sky's northern brother. Fantastic.

Either a pleasant bridging jaunt or squeeze. Pick your poison. The R-facing wide corner crack on the upper tier left of Voices of the North. Tiptoe respectfully around the ferns onto the R face up through divine unlikely pockets.

About 50m left of Lithophyte you'll find this fractured face. Launch up the right side of the face and embrace the grin on your face as you swim your way through unlikely shell-pieces. A beaut for the grade.

Warning Flora and Fauna: Wasp nest

Abseil down to the large ledge just left of the finish to Amateur Theatrics. Climb the prominent diagonal crack up rightwards to the crux where it bends towards vertical near the top. Very sustained.

The continuously technical overhanging thin crack immediately right of Something Wicked. Crux at the top.

The arete left of Sunset Wall.

Closed project may need a bolt or 2 at the end. Stay off please.

Totally worth the 9 hour round trip from Emerald (or even the 12 hour round trip from Brisbane)! A stellar line that meanders its way up an improbably blank looking face through just enough holds and some really amazing moves. Starts punching from the ground and just keeps coming all the way up to the spectacularly airy finish. Led as a pure sport route but there is additional pro for the run out sections if you so desire.

Open project. Crux hold broke off making it significantly harder. Grade 26ish. Take a #1 cam for between the 4th and 5th bolt.

Starts 10m left of Cathedral cave. Follow the thin right-leaning crack to a small cave at 30m (belay possible). Step up right from the cave to an awkward mantle onto a ledge then traverse delicately left to the arête in an airy position. Easily to top.

Warning Fixed Gear: Loose bolts

Memorable route with a memorable name.

Start on left side of Cathedral Cave. Up the juggy start to break, passing three bits of fixed protection. Long move off the break using jug and good holds, continue to the top swerving in and around another 10 pieces of fixed protection.

You are a mug if you don't get on this super superb climb.

Belay on tree back from edge.

Start up the crack on the right hand side of the cave. Climb up and traverse left to the centre of the roof. Still waiting for a red point ascent

A brilliant sustained route in an exposed position. Climbs the obvious corner hanging over the right hand side of the cave. Take double ropes and lots of small cams. Dyno up on fig tree branches through the tunnel in the foliage until you hit rock and a welcome cam placement. Then climb up to and past a band of sandy rock (two bolts) to a stance at the bottom of the big smooth corner. This is where the fun starts. Climb the corner with increasing difficulty to the top where an escape, past a bolt, onto the right wall is possible. Then swing right again to a stance of sorts, then move up to a horizontal break and welcome runners. Figure a way across to the bolt on left. Then hand traverse further left for 3 meters on decreasing foot holds to gain another bolt. Hang in there its nearly over. Climb up past one more bolt and a horizontal break (good runners) to a grim lichen infested exit. Belay off trees. Lots of them.

The squeeze slot between Cathedral cave and the Serenity Ledge

From the ledge, follow the crack up to the Ledge. From ledge, keep left, following the easiest way up.

Shares the start of Serenity. Up crack to ledge, where Serenity goes left. Keep climbing straight up where a committing move (crux) will gain you the wall above. Continue up the line and belay in a small recess. 2nd pitch (grade 15) follows the exposed continuation crack to top.

Walk 50m past Cathedral Cave and into the slot between the main wall and a detached boulder. At the end of this slot, there is a crack. Belay here.

Pitch 1 - 14 - Up crack easily to the vegetated ledge (can belay/rap from here). Scramble around the large alcove to the right and then trend back to the left and up for a ways, with gear deteriorating when slopey, sandy bulges are found. Belay underneath obvious right-facing corner. 40m.

Pitch 2 - 17 - Straight up off belay and get established in right-facing corner (crux). This pitch has great gear and climbing. Top out and belay in recess 2m back from the cliff.

Rap tatt is installed lookers right 10m from the top out. One 35m rap will get you to the vegetated ledge. Downclimb or rap again from here.

An old school classic, definitely not recommended for sport climbers. You will need to watch out for the odd loose flake and hollow block, not to mention the big sandy cave. This is the deep line that goes straight up the middle of the high, pale orange wall about 100m right of Firefly. Climb the steep groove past a short desperate layback section until you find yourself in the sandy cave. Bridge around the huge capstone, which has an ancient rap sling wrapped around it, and mantle onto a welcome ledge. The climbing steps up a gear here. Crank upwards on widely spaced holds and good gear to a good stance. Take care on the last moves into the belay cave as they are thin and quite run out. Rap off bolts. A second pitch awaits.

I’m not sure where the name came from, but it seems appropriate. It follows the prominent corner/chimney system midway between Gravel and Wine and Killer Whale. The rock architecture is pretty spectacular around here. Take big gear and wear a helmet.

1. 30m. 20. Climb the glassy smooth body crack corner which soon narrows abruptly to an offwidth. The crux involves getting past this constriction. Once you have done so, continue up more easily on thin face holds to a comfortable belay ledge below the looming chimney. Led by Alex Christino.

2. 25m. 17. Ascend the chimney until progress is halted by the ceiling. Then bridge horizontally out under the 8m roof in a spectacular position. Exit the ceiling on the left hand side and layback up to a good ledge. Watch out for loose rock here, especially as you are directly above the belay. Finish easily up leftwards to a big tree. Led by Joe Lynch.

1. 30m. Climb the slabby corner guarded by a bold start. Traverse to the left most crack and fire up the 30 degree overhang on sporty crimps and fiddly placements until you reach a stopper crux just before the angle relents. Take a rest and continue up easy twin cracks and belay on the ledge.

2. 10m. Up chimney then trend left on juggy slab.

Starts just left of the start of Lucky 13 and then follow bolts up the arete, eventually finishing on the left side of the arete.

To start this adventure either start on the ground ( best position for your belayer) and solo up 8m to ledges or start on the ledges, (same as killer whale ) take a deep breath and climb the overhanging coral on thread runners,till you joyously reach the first piece of fixed protection. Continue cranking though the crux's till you reach the slab. Put on your ballet shoes and tip toe up the slab till you reach a small roof, over this on jugs to gain a ledge. Bumble on till you reach the second roof, mantle over the lip and rejoice,take in some fresh air and run up the easy slab to belay.

Airy climbing following the great holds up the obvious arête.

An obvious arête line until you reach a stopper crux high up in space. Grade 25+. Open project.

A steep, unrelenting face climb that goes straight up the middle of the gently overhanging wall left of Organ Failure. Take a set of wires - there are three placements after the last bolt. Double bolt rap station.

A pumpy warmup. Exit right and trad belay at the top.

Located on southern side of castle. Stays in shade. Up lay back crack moving left around enormous chockstone. Bring 5 and 6 cams. Belay on top of chockstone.

From top of huge chockstone, climb leaning corner crack to top of pillar. Pull onto face with awkward moves up to a ledge. Up and around to top.

The overhanging corner right of Transplant Rejection.

An absolutely outrageous roof climb in a fantastic position. Start below the obvious 7 metre offwidth roof on the shady side of the Castle. You can't miss it.

1. 15m. 19. Up the deep line to a triple bolt hanging belay just below the roof. Be careful of the rock on this pitch.

2. 25m. 25M0. Traverse out along the roof to a couple of extremely welcome jugs at the lip. Two guide bolts either side of the lip ensure that the rope doesn't stray too far into the crack. After turning the lip, launch straight into a desperate 20 degree overhanging offwidth. This eventually narrows all the way down to a finger crack before the angle eases to vertical.

Start to right of Divine under line of bolts up wall. Five bolts up wall to ledge. then pull through roof on jugs to mount sandy chock stone. Then blast up over hanging line on the left. Full rack required for top crack. 3rd bolt out of sight on ledge.

Follow the line of ring bolts up the arete and face. You can lower of the top with 70m rope.

On the right of the divine wall the cliff breaks down to lichen covered walls with a few cracks up them. Here you will find Sherpas Tensing, the the first right hand corner from divine wall.

Layback or heel/toe up the corner with the wide crack on left, until you can move easily onto the face, then upwards to the large ledge. Rap off tree.

The fused corner. Stem up past 6 bolts to a #1 cam placement. Up past another bolt and nut placement to top out on ledge. Rap off tree.

Past the blow hole and around the corner, before the cliff peters out.

Up right side of the cave and then continue straight up, finding gear in cracks and breaks all the way. A bit fragile, climb carefully.

Trad anchor to belay. Scramble up another 10-15m to the top and walk down the gulley further right to get back to the ground.

Short like James' temper but pleasant like his charm. This delightful hand crack stays shady in the morning making for a perfect warm up to start the day.

The first line on this face. Climb up through the jungle of vines then into easy chimney. Trad belay in cave.

Start behind the big tree. Up the twin cracks and into the chimney at the top. Climb to the back of the chimney and exit through the hole at back of cave.

Wander up the face between the two trees, to the right of the wide start of "You Bumble That". Good pro down the bottom and up the top, but quite scarce in the middle.

The tree has since fallen out witch may have made this easyer as the cruxs was getting around the tree.

Offwidth corner starting from a ledge 10m from the base of the cliff. Graded 19, but Tony would say it's a 20.

The crack and juggy face just to the right of the Lizard Ledge.

Starts from the ledge and climbs up the finger crack with plenty of face holds.

Up face and arete. Starts from the ledge.

Up the orange face passing a cool little cave. Traverse right along ledge and continue up left trending crack.

P1)18 P2)16

The devil will meet you here! Climb the offwidth to the left of AOD to cave. Go right and up flake then continue straight up the wide crack to trad belay in cave.

Avoids all the offwidths. Climbs the handcrack to cave and then up the flake. Instead of continuing up the wide crack above, hand traverse left then up thin corner crack. Continue up the widening crack with plenty of face holds to trad belay in cave.

Start as per Antivenom and continue straight up the crack and face passing 4 bolts.

This unrelenting offwidth is sure to get your blood pumping. Take lots of big gear!

The pleasant crack and chimney in the corner.

Up the face to the right of Cranky Boys Corner passing one bolt and a tree on the way up.

The large corner to the right of the big orange face. Lots of different ways to climb so choose your own adventure.

Starts behind the large boulder. Chimney up to steep hand crack.

Start up steep fingercrack corner and then more easily up face.

The finger crack.

The big corner at the left hand end of Porange Wall. Quite technical and sustained on excellent orange rock.

Open project. Attempted ground up but shut down at the unaidable crux half way.

Start at right side of small cave left of Spangled Drongo.

Up past two bolts. Carefully through the broken area above placing as many runners as possible. Then up wall above passing three more bolts.

A great climb with a tricky and committing crux. The rock is excellent despite appearances to the contrary down low. Starts up the deep line at the far right hand end of the wall. Up the line into back of chimney. Face climb up the back of chimney to a rest. Then tackle the top cracks to a slightly funky exit move.

Start on boulder just left of Blues 1965 2 bolts protect the crux them ramble up the arete on bomber nuts.

Start from the top of the bolder up the crack

unique to Australia, piker is the type of person who would opt out of an arrangement or climbing an actual descent route. Start couple of meters right of Bluies 1965 up the coral like rock to ledge head right to chimney up chimney to till reach the roof traverse left under roof to top/ledges. Tree belay.

This climbs the obvious smooth orange corner on the cliff right of Porange Wall. A steep, exposed route with sustained climbing the whole way.

1. Grade 21, 15m. Layback up the thin sharp overhanging corner.

2. Grade 18 with V2 start, 25m. Climb the steep fractured line straight above. It has a hard move off the deck.

The short left facing corner about 30m left of the cave near the left hand end of the cliff. The bottom half has a diagonal crack on the right wall. The top half is a wide jagged corner crack. Useful mainly as an access route to the big ledge above.

Climb the big corner using every crack climbing technique in the book, and then invent a few more. Approach it by climbing Isn't Anything.

World class. A spectacular line and a brilliant climb. It's the obvious crack system bisecting the big wall just right of the lunch cave.

1. 17m. 20. Clip the bolt via the tree follow the line straight up to belay at the ledge. This is popular as a route in its own right (FA: Joe Lynch, Tony Barten, 20 Sep 2014)

2. 32m. 24. Climb the overhanging line straight above. This involves an overhanging thin crack section (crux) and then desperate wide finger crack before you get a well earned rest on the ledge below the big body slot. The slot is sustained all the way the top. (FA: Alex Cristino, Joe Lynch, Tony Barten, 4 Oct 2015)

Climb Wingwalker p2 up to ledge, then step 2m L onto face to avoid slot.

Climb the cranking thin locks and face holds to the top. Hard to stop and place runners.

The glorious corner crack next to super crack. Don’t miss it!

They came in their hundreds (well, 7 or so) at easter 2015. It was rumoured Super Crack was going down.........

First to try was Tony Barten, bravely managing to do the first 8.6586 meters of the crack and pushing off a huge loose block. When the dust had settled along with Tony, Cheyne Hobbs stepped up to the plate, he pushed on and established a new high point. before gravity sucked him down.

Alex Cristino was next to lay a patch. Valiantly he fought upwards into the unknown. As he eased on upwards the rain started pouring downwards. From a position were the crack opened up he was heard to utter, "I need A big cam". But he didn't have one. He is a tough nut but the crack was tougher that day. Eventually he gained the summit although with a rest or three. The aura of the crack was broken but not beaten.

Unnoticed to all a quiet ( ha ha ) man was watching, Omri was his name. I will have a go he said. Up on the wall he did unleash his craft unto the crack. He finger locked and jammed for an hour and a half, seeking meagre rests where he could, until spent he was forced by the cruellest of fates, fatigue, to take a rest on a placement 3 metres from the top. Omri was beaten as well.

And so the first continuous ascent awaits. Will it be a crafty old fella or a new age gym junkie. Who knows? But I want to be there to bear witness. Tony Barten.

Above Snakeskin Crack. The thin crack running up the wall. If you cant find it go back to your sports crags. Start in the cave. Up left side of cave going right to the crack proper. Blast up the line. Would get more stars but we are limited by the site.

Instead of going left out of cave pull directly through roof.

An intimidating and unrelenting twin crack corner in an exposed location.

1. 8m. 14. Climb the wide crack behind the finish of Snake Skin Crack and belay at the bottom of the corner.

2. 25m. 21. Up the steep corner.

the big corner directly right of red star p2.

Start at the arête right of Snake Skin Crack. Up passing four bolts. Small cam after second bolt. number three friend in a pocket to right of small roof just below top. Move left to finish

Excellent rock, excellent protection and sustained climbing. Recommended. Climb the slabby corner that suddenly steepens to an overhanging twin crack corner at half height. Tricky exit. Finishes at a huge tree.

An outrageous steep offwidth on perfect rock in a spectacular position. Up the black slabby crack to a ledge. Then climb the thin hands crack up the steep orange wall to an unlikely rest. Then launch into the overhanging offwidth with the help of a well placed jug. Struggle upwards, forcing your way past a constriction, to reach a desperate thin hands crack that takes you to the exit.

the short, thin seam below possum stampede.

The ZigZagging offwidth left of White Witch. Start on the ground with block on the left. After a short section of grunting to stand on the block layback to break with a move to establish in wider crack above. Wade into the body chimney above with a great stemming finale over final block. Rap off large tree. Take 2 X #4 and 1 X #5 and various smaller cams.

Climbs the white flake corner system just left of a prominent arete. Hard bridging up the fingertips crack corner leads past a thank god bucket to a rest. Then climb the double hanging flake corner above and finish easily to the big ledge.

The body crack just right of the arete right of White Witch. Face climb the bottom half of the crack, step into the chimney and grunt your way to the top. Tree belay on big ledge. It awaits a second pitch.

The beautiful thin hand and finger crack about 2 m left of the corner. It finishes at a belay station below the imposing orange headwall.

The wall above the crack. If you want to do the back you have to go up tonys crack. From the belay on top of Tonys crack. Pull through roof passing bolt. More bolts to top and a no 1and 4 b.d cam. Belay bolts on top. For full value do both climbs in one pitch.

Corner crack 2 meters right of Tony's Crack. UP the ever changing hand and fist crack. Bring big gear or be ready to run it out. Please respect the tree, its part of the climb. Tree belay and rap.

Offwidth/squeze chimney crack. Its been cleaned but no attempt just yet due to needing multiple big bros. Y.S

Line going through steep orange overhang crack next to the offwidth. Climb on to ledge then blast into finger crack to overhanging boldge and finish up on finger crack to tree belay. Rap dowm Five Bells tree.

Crack 8 meters right of PL. Thin crack with slaby mid section. Natural gear belay and rap back down from Five Bells tree.

Go up "What She Said" till break then step left to finish up the last 3 meters of "What He Said". (A easier variant to the two lines.) Natural gear belay and wrap down from five bells tree.

Start just below tree 1 meter right of "What He Said". Follow thin crack till break and up over thin finger bulge, bring small nuts and big cahoonas. Natural gear belay and rap down from Five Bells tree.

Climbs the black groove about 10m left of A Fine Romance. Up the deep line, past some vegetation, to a desperate black v-groove finish. Finish on the ledge immediately above with the big tree.

Up the corner crack/chimney to the horizontal break formed by the overhanging headwall. Be careful of possible loose blocks around here. Then squeeze left along ledge to tree belay. Please avoid this route: the first ascentionists inadvertently upset a barn owl living in the deep cleft.

Obvious right-facing finger sized corner crack to the left of the cave.

P1: Crumbly start, and past the vines to gain the corner. Continue up disappointingly short section of beautiful climbing, then either continue up the dirty groove, or step across to face for some runout jug-hauling.

P2: Continue from ledge up the same corner. Surprisingly quality climbing to the top

Start up hand crack and chimney/offwidth through the roof then climb the easy diagonal cracks and face above.

Climb up face and then traverse left along breaks to the arete and up.

The Chimney.

An absolute classic involving sustained, well protected crack climbing on excellent rock. A must-do. Starts just to the left of J Crack ledge beneath the overhanging orange wall. Up the crack to the roof and undercling right around two successive overlaps. Then go straight up the jam crack to a ledge. The final short steep corner above has a hard exit (crux).

The awesome splitter finger crack, guarded by a nails start. Thankfully us mere mortals can pull through the bolts to where the crack starts and continue up at grade 22.

Climbs the J-shaped crack on the upper wall. An exciting outing in an exposed position. Boulder straight up the orange wall past a bolt to join the crack. Continue boldly up to the tree and launch up the wide crack corner above. At the point where the crack suddenly steepens, place a huge cam (#6 BD) above your head, and traverse right across the wall on small edges to a rest on the arete. Climb straight up (avoiding the obvious loose block) to rejoin the original line which is followed to the top.

Start beneath a bolt in a steep black slab 10m left of Turquoise Hairstreak. Up to stance on slab. Runners possible on left. Clip bolt before moving on to ledge. Traverse left along break, go up crack to jugs and clip the second bolt. Left around arête then straight up the arete and wall above on large jugs and assorted chicken heads. Double bolt belay on orange wall.

A classy finger crack layback corner. Up the steep corner with increasing difficulty, past a couple of overlaps, until the crack thins right down and you can reach right to a monster bucket. Swing out onto the face and climb straight up to the tree belay.

Climb up block at back of gully, and take left hand crack that steepens eventually. Place high runners then move blindly out from corner on the left.

A desperate, smooth overhanging chimney in an outrageously exposed location.

1. 30m. 19. Start below the steep wide crack on the right wall of the gully to the left of Minarete. Up gully to the start of the crack proper. Up the wide crack (bring big cams) until you hit the steep wall, then go left up easy ramp to ledge and tree belay.

2. 30m. 21. Climb the stunning orange corner, mantle over the chockstone and establish yourself in the tight chimney. The fun starts here. Slither upwards past two bolts avoiding a few dubious blocks in the back of chimney. Traditional gear leads onto the third bolt, engage what ever body parts needed to move horizontally in an amazing position to a double bolt lower-off just below the cliff top.

An alpine style adventure route, with a couple of hair-raising traverses.

1. 30m. 19. As for No Country for Old Men.

2. 20m. 17. Up the big orange slabby corner for about 7m. Scoot left across slab at half height to a rest on the arete. Move left again into the deep groove and up it to belay beneath the imposing black crack through the headwall.

3. 20m. 12. Traverse left across slab to arête then bite the bullet and launch straight up on scary (but reasonably solid) rock to top.

Start left of arête. Bridge up to bolt, then hard slab/wall move to right. continue past crux to ledge. Move around to right and up twin cracks. At next ledge move around to right again put your heart in your mouth your trust in a god of your choice, step over void and up to next ledge on holds that only get bigger. Watch out for wasps on the way. There are two rap belay bolts on ledge. Pitch 2 Pull onto wall beneath corner. Once established on wall over ledge move right again. thank a god of your choice trust to the rock and up up up. Rap off tree behind and left. 60 meter rap.

The big rightwards facing orange corner at the left hand end of Cow Tracks cliff. Bridge up the smooth corner until you can reach left to a flake system. Climb this and step left onto the arete to finish. Rap off fixed gear.

Incredible three sided square cut chimney one pitch off the ground with exciting moves negotiating the roof exit. Climb Hang Onto Me to new DBB on side of large block. Clip into anchor and either climb the juggy overhung lip on the right or stem straight up the steep corner to establish in the base of chimney. Best to bring belay to here. Climb the three sided chimney on incredible friction rock with great gear up right side crack to exit left via friction stemming and microcam protection. Easily to top DBB. Incredibly unique climbing on immaculate rock. Stays in the shade till lunch.

Chimney to chimney along halfway ledge.

Just logging it cause the name amused my tiny brain.

Climb up onto the wobbly ledge then cruxy moves into short hand crack. Up past jugs to thin face and crack up top.

Steep airy face climbing on excellent rock. Starts at the leftwards leaning thin diagonal crack 15m right of Manu's Corner. The protection is better than it looks with small cams and wires. Step off the block onto the wall and move left to the corner. Move up to the steep diagonal crack and place the crux runners from good holds on the right wall. Go straight up the vertical line to the big ledge, sling a chicken head as a directinal and walk left to belay from new Double bolt belay on side of large block.

Strenuous crack climbing on excellent rock. Starts 15m right of Hang on to Me at a wide crack. Climb the steep wide crack until it closes down to a seam. Then layback up to a bolt and crank past it to jugs. Continue up the steep airy groove until it is possible to step onto the right face. Wander diagonally up rightwards to belay below a steep corner.

Classic hard crack and face climbing. Starts midway between Gizmo and Mustang Wanted. Up the steep line to a bolt. Desperate cranking takes you to a good ledge. Up the nice groove to finish at the tree.

Starts 15m left of Secrets Found. Boulder up the thin crack then follow the crack and face above to a rest below an overhanging hand crack. Up this using the strength of ten men and one puny man. Then finish easily to the mid-way ledge. Rap from the tree.

Really hot, pretty easy.

Start under the wide crack about 30m left of Personality-Free Zone. Off balance moves to gain wide crack. Climb desperately up the offwidth (bring large cams) then the overhanging jam crack above. Finally, take to face climbing to belay on ledge at base of large chimney. Rap off the fixed gear. The deep chimney above is sure to be exciting but has not been climbed.

Chimney above secrets found. Awesome offwidth climbing protectable using small gear in the crack on the right. Unfortunately after pulling over the lip above the offwidth there is multiple fridge sized rocks resting on loose rubble.

starts 6m right of Secrets Found. rap off the fig tree. anyone is welcome to install some lower-offs at the lower fig tree root if they feel inclined.

The huge corner system that bissects Cow Tracks. Much better than it looks. Take big gear.

1. 30m. 21. Climb easily up the vegetated line until you reach a body crack. Slither desperately up this and continue more easily to belay on a stack of boulders on the half way ledge. Led by Tony Barten.

2. 35m. 20. Up the short offwidth (crux) and pull up nervously over the protruding blocks, which are actually quite solid. The remainder of the pitch is a long chimney system involving excellent rock and protection. Led by Alex Cristino.

P1 (30m): Up broken and vegetated cracks into a chimney. P2 (20m): Continue up the thin crack. Hard face climbing on small gear. The moves go but it would be a difficult redpoint. P3 (15m): Climb through the roof then carefully to the top.

Starts at the very steep twin cracks. P1: Levitate up the steepness to find yourself on a beautiful face. This line takes the right finger crack up to the offwidth. Trad belay on ledge. P2: Continue up the crack over a spooky block and some trick moves then up onto easy face above.

Hard start past a bolt and then onto small ledge. Continue straight up the crack to the halfway ledge. Rap off tree.

P1: Aid up thin crack then left up the slab into the left facing corner with great climbing and gear. P2: Continue straight up with a steep move to gain the ledge and climb the right facing corner on small gear.

Start at the prominent orange streak bordered by two thin cracks about 60 metres right of Personality-Free Zone. Climb desperately up the steep thin hands crack until it ends at an overlap at 10 metres. Move left and crank steeply up the thin corner until the angle eases. Finish easily to ledge and belay at tree.

Start 5 meters left of Q. Ascend rightward leaning crack till it joins Q at natural belay. Has second pitch still to be done.

Extending Q up the natural line to top out the cliff via a spectacular traverse pitch.

1. (21) 30m Climb Q until overhanging chimney. Instead of bailing right, continue up chimney to awkward move establishing in short finger crack (crux). Continue through to belay from crack in back wall. Extending belay to top of finger crack helpful.

2. (18) 15m Climb up corner crack and body chimney above belay pulling onto slab with hand crack and continuing to belay from corner crack at rear wall.

3. (17) 15m Look right from belay in awe at incredible horizontal crack travelling towards dam. Plug in some gear and swing towards distant footer before embarking on a memorable journey with perfect jamBs and crimps all the while finding your feet. Belay from blocks at end of traverse on ledge.

Scramble up from ledge to large boulder at top of crack above 3rd pitch belay. Bring 7m of cord to back up boulder rappel down to pitch one belay anchor. 2 absails to reach ground.

This is the major left-facing orange corner system starting about 20 m right of The Living Dead, and is initialed 'Q'. Climb up the thin hand crack corner, which is harder and steeper than it looks, until it widens into an overhanging chimney. Avoid this by hand traversing right to a big ledge on the arete. Belay here. An inviting face crack provides an obvious second pitch. However, as daylight was fading, we traversed up right to the tree and rapped off.

The face crack above and right of Q.

Quite good. The rock is mostly excellent. About 20m right of Q is a major orange corner that arches over into an 6m roof. An ancient #1 Friend stuck in the roof provides a landmark. And no, you don’t climb the roof crack. Not at this grade anyway.

1. 25m. 18. Climb the technical corner until you are about 2m below the roof. Then traverse out left to the arête on good holds and mostly good gear. Once established out there, step boldly up to gain the roof and layback easily around to the left to a spectacular semi-hanging belay. (led: Joe Lynch)

2. 15m. 17. Straight up the corner, which is harder than it looks, to a belay at the huge tree. Rap off. (led: Alex Cristino)

Start on orange wall 20 meters right of Cherry Bomb at thin crack with bolt about 7m up. Desperately up to clip bolt, then continue desperation to pass bolt. Gain the shake out jam, then onto some fancy jamming before moving right at ledge to double bolt lower off. Watch the sting in the tail.

Just right of 'Tesselated Nuts'. Great climbing up the zig/zag thin seam to exciting exit. Climb one of the routes off the top out ledge to reach the 31 flavours terrace.

Up the crack system in the corner of the ledge above 'Running on Vaporlocks'

Step right from the start of 'Shower of Love' to the dead tree. Move carefully off the small leafy ledge onto glowing orange wall bisected by a tasty crack. Simply gorgeous jamming and jugs lead to a bridging exit at a tree.

Up the grey face and just right of the fig tree at half height then up the orange streak left of the black patch. Trend back right to top out.

Up orange streak right of the black patch. Small gear for the crux - we used ball nuts.

Up the crack on the right of the orange patch.

All of the routes on this face have surprisingly good gear, although the starts are sometimes a bit sparse. At the top of this route are some rap rings to save the trees; accessible by all routes on this face.

2m left of the vegetated crack. Through the middle of the small overhang at the ground then fairly straight up. A small (black or white) tri-cam was the first piece in some sneaky pockets otherwise your first piece might be quite high. Good nuts all the way to the top.

Up the vegetated crack

Start as for Red Vine, traverse right to the obvious weaknesses. Finish just right of the tree. Tree belay or gear on back wall.

Start up the very left of the undercut and then keep traversing right as low as possible whilst still finding gear (it's there). Then to the arete and up.

A fun easy ramble. Start right of big capped boulder at twin cracks below a short ramp. Named for Ben Carter who, upon dropping his wires at the start of comic relief at Arapiles, looked down and uttered the now infamous exclamation "Game Over"

Up crack with plenty of face holds and into pleasant chimney with gear in the back. Continue upwards to tree belay.

Hard start up to the tree then continue up crack and over steep bulge. Climb the easy face to the top and tree belay.

Starts at the tree stump right of Remains of the Dale. Step in from the left, and follow your nose to the ledge.

From here, head up the super thin seam. Climbs independently from the corner (which is yet to be climbed), but close enough you can step across. Top out to belay from same tree as RotD.

The well protected thin crack on a ledge far right on cold rock wall. cruse up the finger crack before it closes prematurely to less than ideal tips....think tall thoughts.

Far left end of the main wall. Start near tree in corner following twin cracks. After knobby orange feature, follow single crack to top. Great gear, holds and jams.

Start up triple cracks into broken wide crack. Out of this onto face and up, climbing RH face of gully at the top.

Follow bolts up to horizontal break (cam or wire) then continue up passing 2 more bolts to anchor.

Two routes on the topos were previously listed as A Second of Destruction. This is the one on the right.

Twin cracks 2 m right of ASOD. Up cracks and straight up to tree belay.

Starts at next large crack right of BU. Up wide crack, traverse left and pull over bulge (small wires). Up onto ledge, then right hand facing corner to top. Tree belay(s).

Start at the same crack as MCC, traverse out right and follow the crack passing the tree on the left, then up to the top staying on the right. Tree belay

Boulder up the rippled section to the big ledge, then easily up the lighter coloured rock to tree belay