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Access: Cania Gorge National Park contains many sites of aboriginal cultural significance.

Check this link before visiting any new sectors in the area: https://core.ac.uk/download/pdf/303740859.pdf . In summary, don't climb within a 4km radius of the Cania Gorge Tourist Retreat. This includes 3 Moons Camp.

See warning details and discuss

Created 9 months ago

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Access issues inherited from Cania Gorge

There are significant sensitive cultural areas in the south of the park. At least five caves in the southern end of the park show evidence of long established aboriginal occupation. Do NOT climb near the tourist tracks, picnic areas, on private land or any where you may make a bad impression. If you are unsure don't do it till you gain more knowledge ie. use some common sense

Approach

Park at second power pole along fish hatchery road. Then walk straight up ridge to the south, aiming for the prominent point of rock. You will meet the cliff at the Big Happy Fun Time Wall.

Descent notes

Rap off trees

Ethic inherited from Cania Gorge

Trad climbers have been active at Cania since the 70's. All are encouraged to post their routes here. It's likely that some routes currently being claimed have been climbed before. Please keep this in mind when bolting. There are plenty of unprotected walls ripe for bolting but please leave naturally protected lines to those able to climb them in trad style. That way everybody gets to live their dream and we hopefully avoid conflict with the old guard. - JL

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Routes

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Grade Route

Routes

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Grade Route

The wall at the far left hand end of Four Seasons just before you arrive at the Milky Way. Long, quality routes of a variety of grades.

Locate the left leaning crack in the middle of the wall 30m left of Strange Brothers. This is the second pitch and the money pitch. Access to the ledge via climbing a 10m crack approximately 5m to the right in the corner (pitch 1, grade 15). Climb the left leaning thin splitter to the second ledge (pitch 2, hard), rappel off tree possible. Third pitch starts in the corner to the right and leads to the top of the cliff (pitch 3, grade 15).

An adventurous chimney with an aura of mystery that wasn't lifted until the first ascent finally occurred.

Climb the corner to belay at the base of the void. Climb up the back of the chimney then move out to masive chockstone and gear. Squeeze out the side of chockstone and over. Squeeze up behind the second massive chockstone and climb to top.

FA: Dale Williamson & Josiah Hess, Jun 2021

Start just to the right of the big chimney. Climb up to the ledge then blast up the thin crack past a hard crux (aided on the FA). Continue up then move right to climb up the face.

FA: Josiah Hess & David Collard, Aug 2020

A hard start up to the ledge leads to more hard climbing up the crack. Make sure you tape up for this one! Awaiting a free ascent.

FA: Josiah Hess & Dani Hess, Aug 2020

The right corner, through cave and up blockey crack. Surprisingly good holds and moves all the way. The first ascent saw a brief battle with a tuft of grass and wasp nests that left the climber in the same state as the rope: dirty and twisted. Rap from a tree to the left.

FA: Adam Kerz & Michael Hirning, 29 Aug 2020

Starts on the ledge on the right of the wall.

Cruxy moves up corner before following left diagonal crack to join the top of Dirty and Twisted.

FA: Samuel Gough & Josiah Hess, Jun 2021

A superb climb up superb rock. the moves keep coming all the way. Up the wide crack till it gets wider. Some smaller runners are able to be placed at bulge. Surmount bulge then either continue straight up offwidth, if you have large gear remaining on your rack, or right and up thin crack till able to move easily back left to top of offwidth.

FA: Alex Cristino with the scungy brothers in tow., 14 Apr 2017

Start 3m left of large corner at obvious offwidth. Solo up inside of chimney on good edges to placement where crack pinches. Pull around left on pockets on inside face of cave above to more pockets and jambs. A bit of knee trickery to pull around under large elkhorns and up slab to belay at large tree. A couple of 120cm runners are handy at top to avoid large block under belay tree.

FFA: Matt Fingleton & Matt Raimondo, 15 Jul

up corner. belay rap bolts at top

FA: Phil Box & Craig Thompson, 12 Aug 2014

The obvious stonking sickle crack high on the left-hand end of Four Seasons Point. Has the aura of a good ol' Arapiles adventure climb. Above and left of 'CRAIGS Crack' and 'After You'.

Scramble up small wall to belay ledge at the base of the line. Steep jamming, adventurous traversing reminiscent of The Bard, and an exposed grand finale to bring it all home! Bring lots of long extenders to manage your drag. If not, setup a semi-hanging belay mid-traverse. Be wary mounting the hanging magic block in the first 7m ...

FFA: Alex Mougenot & Liam Boyle, Jun 2017

The following three routes are located on a wall with a boulder in front. Superb rock. Fun climbs.

left crack on wall. up crack and wall. trending left at half height

FA: Craig, 12 Aug 2014

I rapped the line and slipped in a couple of bolts."I wanted to climb that"' said youth. "Too late" said I. Youth puts on puppy dog eyes. OK you get first attempt,t if you cant do it first shot I take second shot and if I get up it, I am going to name it after you.

Middle of three routes on wall. Clip bolt from boulder. start low. Up past bolt wire cam to next bolt. crux. then up wall trending left to top.

FA: Tony Barten Min Sheppard & a Cast of thousands

Right hand arête of wall. Start on the right of course! Up the arête.

FA: Cheyne Hobbs, 12 Aug 2014

Up obvious crack until obvious ledge. Obviously. Traverse around to the left and scramble down the gulley.

FA: Adam Kerz & Michael Hirning, 29 Aug 2020

Warning Rock: Climb evolution

Awesome movement. Bomber pro. Brilliant position.

Pitch 1 - 16 - 20m - Climb left facing corner 5m left of Cracklett. Be careful of rubble on the ledge at 10m when pulling up to it. Belay at tree.

Pitch 2 - 19 - 20m - Use bomber .75 and hex to protect awkward fall off belay. Big two moves up and over bulge to the left of the Elkhorn Ferns. Ramble to the left, place good gear and pull through rooflet (crux). Up easily to belay at tree.

Pitch 3 - 16 - 30m - Move belay up vegetated gully 10m to tree growing sideways out of rock. From here, move in a rising right-hand traverse out to the arete above the orange roof/slab. Place friendly gear for the 2nd. Awesome pitch! Cania at its finest.

Belay at boulder at top of cliff. Follow edge 20m to lookers left to rap off tree. 60m rope is sufficient.

FFA: Adam Sanders & Scott Birse, Aug 2020

Up crack to small roof. then to top. Access to climbs higher up.

FA: Tony Barten Craig Min Sheppard, 11 Aug 2014

Up the finger crack into flared groove and off width to finish.

FA: Michael Hirning, Josiah Hess & David Collard, Aug 2020

FFA: Josiah Hess, Sep 2020

Located above Happy Fun Time. Access by climbing up Cracklett. Min pulled a rabbit out of the bag to grab the first ascent of this tricky test piece.

Up corner using some old time skills. To get down scramble down gully to right of final belay, then Rap to top of 4 seasons wall from tree.

FA: Min Sheppard Tony Barten Craig, 11 Aug 2014

This is where the approach track meets the cliff. A short wall with plenty of fun for the whole family.

Start left of the arete.

Climb up the initial corner crack and continue straight up the face,

FA: Josiah Hess & Adam Kerz, Jun 2021

Climbs the centre of the arete.

Poorly protected start leads to nice climbing above.

FA: Josiah Hess & Julia Lloyd-Smith, Jun 2021

Start right of the arete. Hollow rock and poor protection down low leads to a nice slab above.

FA: Josiah Hess & Dani Hess, Aug 2020

Hard start up orange streak past 3 RBs (stickclip recommended) then up easy face on gear.

Set: Josiah Hess, Sep 2020

FFA: Adam Kerz, Sep 2020

Face climb up the left hand crack. Large cams (#4 and 5) will come in handy. A bit run out in a couple of places. Belay at obvious tree.

FA: Tony Barten, 21 Apr 2014

Start 3 meters right of Big Happy Fun Time. One jam then layaway and crimp to glory. More fantastic face climbing.

FA: Joe Lynch, Tony Barten & Stephan Fannigan, 21 Apr 2014

Boulder problem start that can be avoided with help from the tree. More fun face climbing.

FA: Tony Barten, Joe Lynch & Stephan Fannigan, 21 Apr 2014

Line of three fixed hangers 2m right of Pet Cow. Bouldery start, then follow the somewhat hollow flakes and then straight up the nice juggy headwall, passing some good nut placements.

The third expansion bolt didn't tighten and we ended up with a Bitter Aftertaste in our mouths - just like when the Glühwein smashed in the gutter.

FA: Adam Kerz, Dani Hess & Josiah Hess, 29 Aug 2020

A sweet route, like our Glühwein would have been, had it not ended up in the gutter back in Brisbane...

Line of four hangers 5m right of Bitter Aftertaste. Rap anchors in a block at the top.

FA: Dani Hess, Adam Kerz & Josiah Hess, 29 Aug 2020

The leftward-leaning crack at the right hand end of the wall. Funky start. Thin jam to gain hold high on right wall, then a chimney move. More great face climbing to top. Rap off tree to right.

FA: Joe Lynch, Tony Barten & Stephan Fannigan, 21 Apr 2014

Climbs the featured face 5m right of spiderland. Takes plenty of nuts and hexes. For full value, climb in a moon boot on your 31st birthday.

FA: Steffen & Saskia Bollmann, Dave OS, Kelly Garner & Christopher Nolan, 31 Jul 2020

The following route is above Big Happy Fun Time.

Climbs the arete above Big Happy Fun Time. Escape to rappel tree stepping over little gully to the right.

FA: unknown

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