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Rock: New area - loose rock

As this is a new climbing area still under development, exercise caution as loose rock abounds.

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Created 4 months ago
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Summary

Close to Brooyar, with similar sandstone features, offering climbs 7m to 12m in height, and plenty of bouldering potential.

Description

Fishermans Pocket is only 1.5 kms from Brooyar's Gladstonbury Camp Area as the crow flies, however to get there requires a completely different approach as it's on the other side of the Mary River. The same kind of sandstone as Brooyar, and similarly featured. A good option for Gympie locals or those spending a few days at Brooyar and looking for something a little different.

Access issues

Although located in State Forest, the road in (Fishermans Pocket Rd) takes you past a number of private properties and finishes at a dead-end, so you can assume the residents don't get a lot of traffic driving into that area. Please drive with caution and behave respectfully. Be sure not to block any part of the road when parking.

This is a new crag, so loose rock can be expected. Always wear helmets. Do NOT let children sit beneath the cliff as large rocks can be accidentally pulled off the cliff.

Fauna: Suspected dingo feaces have been observed in this area. It might therefore be a good idea to keep pets at home until this can be confirmed.

Approach

If travelling from Brisbane, take the Bruce Hwy into Gympie and turn left at Pine St. Follow this for about 500 m, past the Nestle factory and the road soon becomes Widgee Crossing Rd. Follow Widgee Crossing Rd for just over 2 kms, then turn right into Fishermans Pocket Rd. Follow this mostly dirt road for approx. 7.5 kms, until you reach the dead end and turn around point. Park off to the eastern side ensuring you don't block the road.

If Travelling from Brooyar, drive to the Bruce Hwy and head south towards Gympie. Turn right into Meadows Ln, follow this to Fishermans Pocket Rd, turn right and follow Fishermans Pocket Rd till it ends.

From the car parking area, walk east down the hill keeping the private property fence line on your left. The hill is a bit steep and the loose leaf matter makes it a bit slippery in places and you may need to negotiate some boulders on the hill. Follow the gully all the way down until you reach the creek bed. Cross the creek (there is a large mossy log that spans the creek bed that you can use as a landmark) and start walking up the hill on the other side of the creek. You'll soon reach the cliff. The walk in takes about 10-15 mins, but the walk out usually takes longer because you have to slog back up the same hill you walked in on.

History

History timeline chart

Climbing activity began here in 2019, with the first three routes "Soft Shell Crab", "Rock Lobster" and "Yibida Yabida" developed in October that year. In November 2019 "Nibble" and "Silly Salmon" were added. The crag sat dormant for a couple of years until the Naylor brothers climbed the first trad line, "Bring the Tackle Box", in May 2021. There is potential for more climbing routes as well as bouldering. Watch this space.

Routes

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Grade Route

The obvious crack line just left of Yibida Yabida. A little bit run out at the very top when the crack ends, but easy climbing to either belay off Yibida Yabida anchors (safest option) or look for a natural pro option (not many unless you walk way back to a tree or find some very sketchy features to sling).

FA: Ethan Naylor & Ollie Naylor, May 2021

Towards the left side of the cliff. The line of Fixed Hangers (glue-in bolts) ending in a double ring bolt belay. At about half-way, step right to gain juggier features to the top.

FA: Bruce Schneider & mason minto, Oct 2019

Small wall to the right of Yibida Yabida. Three ring bolts to a double ring bolt belay.

FA: Bruce Schneider, mason minto & Melinda Van Slobbe, Oct 2019

A couple of meters right of Soft Shell Crab. Four ring bolts to a top out (tree belay). Will get a bolted anchor when time permits.

FA: Bruce Schneider, mason minto & Melinda Van Slobbe, Oct 2019

Towards the right side of the crag. Four ring bolts to a double ring bolt belay. A couple of delicate slabby moves takes you to a juggier finish. The 2nd ascent saw a microwave sized block pulled off just above the last bolt. A sober reminder to always wear helmets and don't let your kids sit around at the bottom of the cliff, especially at newer crags where loose rock abounds.

FA: Bruce Schneider, mason minto & Melinda Van Slobbe, Nov 2019

A couple of meters to the right of Nibble. Five ring bolts to a double ring bolt belay. You can make it a harder climb by sticking to the left of the first 3 or 4 bolts. Otherwise just find the line of least resistance.

FA: Bruce Schneider, mason minto & Melinda Van Slobbe, Nov 2019

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Activity

Check out what is happening in Fishermans Pocket.

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