Enchanted Cave

  • Grade context: AU
  • Photos: 1
  • Ascents: 9




The first cave located to the right of the main wall.

Access issues inherited from Mons School Road Park

This area has been gazetted by the council as a park (according to google maps). However, we have been approached by locals wondering what we are doing here. Please realize that this is still a fairly residential neighbourhood, and that although the residents are friendly we still need to be as polite as possible to them. This includes keeping noise levels low, cleaning up after yourself and others and carpooling to the crag. The residents have also expressed concerns about fires resulting from the dryness of the park so it is encouraged that if you are smoking to be mindful of where you ash your smokes, and what you do with the butts. If possible please do not smoke at the crag.

Carpooling- Flow bouldering have offered the use of their carpark as a meeting spot for people to carpool from. It's five minutes down the road and has coffee and chalk.

Ethic inherited from Mons School Road Park

Sandstone - Please don't climb here after rain, the sandstone becomes brittle and will break.

Please consider pad placement when bouldering in Buderim aiming not to put pads on flora or fauna.

Clean up after your session. This includes clearing rubbish and brushing holds free of any chalk you use. If chalk spillage occurs please hoard it back into your chalk depository device like a miserly gremlin.

Keep noise and group numbers to a minimum.


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Grade Route

The obvious line though the middle of the cave.

Sit start on the white shelf, compress your way through the cave to gain the crimp on the lip. Work out how to mantle and your done.

The top needs a good clean.

Sit start low on the arete rail, slap up the arete then bust out right to the break. Try to avoid standing the the ledge. Straight up to a slopey mantle.

Set: Tyler, 11 Jul 2021

FA: Oliver Rickford, 24 Jul

Stand start with Rh side pull and Lh gaston, up to the rail, traverse left and finish up Parasitiformes.

FA: Oliver Rickford, 22 Jul

Start on RHS of the wall on the sloping ledge. Traverse L along the break to the end. One move up and L to finish matched on the ledge.

FA: Crofty11, 8 Aug


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