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The Blocs

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Description

Right of Jareg Boulder

Access issues inherited from Mons School Road Park

This area has been gazetted by the council as a park (according to google maps). However, we have been approached by locals wondering what we are doing here. Please realize that this is still a fairly residential neighbourhood, and that although the residents are friendly we still need to be as polite as possible to them. This includes keeping noise levels low, cleaning up after yourself and others and carpooling to the crag. The residents have also expressed concerns about fires resulting from the dryness of the park so it is encouraged that if you are smoking to be mindful of where you ash your smokes, and what you do with the butts. If possible please do not smoke at the crag.

Carpooling- Flow bouldering have offered the use of their carpark as a meeting spot for people to carpool from. It's five minutes down the road and has coffee and chalk.

Ethic inherited from Mons School Road Park

Sandstone - Please don't climb here after rain, the sandstone becomes brittle and will break.

Please consider pad placement when bouldering in Buderim aiming not to put pads on flora or fauna.

Clean up after your session. This includes clearing rubbish and brushing holds free of any chalk you use. If chalk spillage occurs please hoard it back into your chalk depository device like a miserly gremlin.

Keep noise and group numbers to a minimum.

Routes

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Grade Route

First large boulder located below the Main Wall.

Start on the left most nubbin with excellent low feet. Straight up avoiding the flake on the left. Works well no-handed.

Climbs the left side of the slab. Starting centrally with one hand on each nubbin, up on nubbins and baubles.

James Shapter

FA: Oliver Rickford, 2 Jun 2021

To the right Of Magic and Alchemy. Start with the most right nubbin, move up staying directly above the starting hold to a small feature up high before slapping over the top, finishing left of the highest point on the boulder.

A hold has broken reciently, this is potentially much harder now.

Oliver Rickford

FA: Oliver Rickford, 8 Aug

Start right of Philosopher's Stone, keeping left of the nubins up through nothing holds and small features. Mantle at the highest point. More brushing required.

Stand start with undercling and low arete for hands. Work your way up arete and slab to top out.

James Hembury

FA: James Hembury, 28 Jul 2021

Stand Start on the right hand side of arete. Magic your way up to top out.

Tamati Kennedy

FA: Tamati Kennedy, 28 Jul 2021

Sit start deep in the hole using opposing side pulls. Avoid dabbing on the Cracked Boulder to the left.

Reagen Tieleman

FA: Jake O'Sullivan, 12 Jul 2021

Right of Alchemy Boulder.

Up the corner, all blocks are in. Awkward trad-style bumbling up the corner. Probably similar to a Ewbank 8 or so.

Stand start left of the juggy meat wrap with both hands jamming the obvious crack. Keeping left of Memento Mori, move up and through the overhang to gain the victory bucket crimp. Nothing slab direct to top out. Avoid using the tree.

Oliver Rickford

FA: Oliver Rickford, 26 Jul 2021

Traverse crack from left to right and top out just before big ol' tree. Bring your crack gloves!

FA: Lee Prescott, 29 Sep

Stand start with both hands jambing the crack in the middle of the boulder. Straight up the break to top out.

FA: Oliver Rickford, 8 Jul 2021

Start directly below the tree (Rh side of the arete) with high left hand sloper/ pinch & right hand on the juggy sidepull, traverse left around the bulge and finish as per Memento Mori.

FA: Jake O'Sullivan, 10 Jul 2021

Sit start as per Tree Knob matched on the juggy crimp rail on the Rh side of the arete. Up and around then into Saddle Club, traverse past Memento Mori and finish up The Crabalyst.

Sit start matched on crimp jug. Straight up using the tree knob sloper to mantle

FA: Oliver Rickford, 8 Jul 2021

Up the slab using feet only, don't dab your elbow on the top out for a glorious send.

FA: Oliver Rickford, 5 Jul 2021

Sit start, Rh undercling, Lh pinching arete, straight up.

FA: Oliver Rickford, 13 Jul 2021

Right of Cracked Boulder.

Starting from a sit traverse the lip left to right then mantle at the highest point.

FA: Oliver Rickford, 10 Jul 2021

Right of Jareg Boulder.

Sit start matched on the side pull on the left of the arete, traverse right and mantle at the jug in the middle of the boulder.

FA: Angel Freeman, 28 Jul 2021

As per Lilo but continue to traverse right along slopers to the victory ledge. Mantle.

Oliver Rickford

FA: Oliver Rickford, 28 Jul 2021

Sit start with Rh on the crimpy side pull, Lh on the slopey crimp with a thumb catch. Throw to the lip and top out.

Oliver Rickford

FA: Oliver Rickford, 31 Jul 2021

Sit start matched on the arete scoop, big move up and left to small crimps followed by a mantle on slopers.

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