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The Brain Area

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 83

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Summary

This is the Area of Donnelly's containing the Brain boulder bloc.

Description

A slightly more densely packed area of blocs than most of the rest of the park.

Access issues inherited from Donnelly's Castle

Apparently a local council reserve. Surrounded by private land, so be careful where you wander.

Approach

It is most easily accessed either from the carp park by heading left and following a faint trail behind the toilet block, taking this route will lead you initially to the Crabbie pants boulder. Alternatively if you are already in amongst the blocks head toward stretch armstrong and then over the open patch of floor granite and down into the woods opposite stretch armstrong bloc and you will find the top of this sector.

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Routes

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Grade Route

Bouldery sit start proj on good sized holds. Funky. Named after watching a hard warm up flash by a ol timer- “was that your warm up?” The ol timer replied, "I never really cool down"

Straight up front face using sidepulls, slopers and crimps. Top out up high slab, arete.

Stand or jump start on the left side of the bloc, with choice of jugs LH and RH edge. Punch straight up to a tall top.

Stand start with tiny crimps right of the thin vertical crack. Nice rock and sustained moves.

Nice looking project up high arete.

Mantle up into scoop on the lowest and easiest looking part of this boulder.

Stand start on left side of face, up to obvious pocket then head rightwards and up. Left boulder is out. Balancy, reachy and brilliant.

Tim Nicholson

The Boulder behind “Kamikazi”. Up thin and solid slab face.

Right of Backwoods. Start on high Rh jug and Lh rail. Climb up and left onto the blunt arete, to a airy top.

FA: Jimmy Blackhall, Apr 2022

Stand start to the right of “The Brain”, with the generous undercling flake above your head. Make a set of burly moves up and into the runnel, to a kamikaze top out. Excellent

Antoine Mousette

Start on poor rail then big move up to slot, then to victory jug.

FA: Oliver Miller, 2011

Up slab left of pink streak. Trust your feet ...

FA: Tim Nicholson, 2012

Up blunt arete slab. When the blankness hits/ use your feet!

Up on good edges and flakes. Great rock.

FA: Tim Nicholson, 2012

Up featured arete.

Left side of tall arete. Great slab climbing to high and committing crux.

High and delicate. Most likely unrepeated after Shanon the slab master walked up this one. Amazing solid micro footers lead up the middle of the face. Testpiece for budding slab masters

Tall, bold, high ball slab. Start in a stand to the right of the Graffiti piece, and dance your way up to a delirious top. Bring many pads, these walls don’t lie.

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Selected Guidebooks more

Author(s): Simon Carter

Date: 2018

ISBN: 9780958079068

A few years ago there was basically Frog Buttress and Coolum. Since then there has been more development than Barangaroo and South East Queensland should be on any climbers radar no matter what your style. Except ice climbing, definitely no ice climbing. But over 1250 routes with hard sport, multipitches and quality trad to make a great trip.

Author(s): Jimmy Blackhall & David Jefferson

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9377779499658

Hidden within the ordinary people of Queensland there exists a tight-knit community of scabby knuckles, grazed knees, massive forearms and iron-clad wills. This guidebooks seeks to shed light on this community and blocks of choice with all the information, skills and knowledge to open the door for you to explore all the bouldering that Queensland has to offer.

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