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Summary

The region you are naturally led to by the path wandering up into the blocs from the carpark. Big bold lines and a great place to start. Central to all the other areas.

Description

Home of the Post it line, some excellent slab climbing and the stretch armstrong bloc. Rear left border links to the brain sector, Rear right border links to the dirty action area, front right region links to the grotto and front left is downhill to the carpark.

Access issues inherited from Donnelly's Castle

Apparently a local council reserve. Surrounded by private land, so be careful where you wander.

Approach

Straight up the path from the carpark, first blocs are the Palm cove slabs, the hippy apple bloc and the post it line depending on where you turn just past the lookout steps.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Reach/jump to nice ledge then up.

Stand start this crimpy problem on aesthetic rock, with high hands around face height. Watch the flexy flake on the mantle out.

Stand start with low crimps, moving across crimpy, technical climbing, to a long, cruxy reach.

Start on full stretch/jump to the double hand sloper bulge on the face left of the Right arete. Burly move left into the weakness and figure your way up from there. Benefits those with a longer reach but not to be missed by the shorter climber!

FA: Nick Foulds, 2 Oct

Easy up featured wall left of fig tree. Also used to get down of this giant boulder.

Stand start just right of tree with low LH and RH in runnel. Punchy and classic.

Crimpy and reachy wall a few metres right of fig tree.

Up crimpy face.

Up the left side of the arete.

Up the high slab on positive edges. Arete is in.

Up twin seems then trend left to vertical slot, up and over

Very possible project. Start 1m right of post it. Up trending rightwards to high crux.

On the same side facing “Post it” (back of the same Boulder as H.A). Sit start the blunt arete trending leftwards.

Sit start on matched hands to the right, then head up and left to top out. Cool moves on sharp holds.

Left variation of 'Happy Apple'. Sit start then straight up

Better than it looks. Great funky moves up the left side of arete. May have crumbly rock around arete but comes good with brushing.

An intricate slab problem starting on a good left foot, finger pad mono for the left and a slap with some dimples in it for you right. Delicate moves right and then ascend trending left to stay on the face as long as you can. Bailing early is tempting but detracts from the length of slab available to you!

walk roughly half the way into the crack off the end of the lookout and nestle yourself into your best Egyptian and get chimneying! Good holds abound at the lips on both sides of the top take your time and find them. Care to be taken at the top of this chimney, a fall from the top would not end well.

FA: Nick Foulds, 2 Oct

Low angled slab on solid rock on the right side of the corridor.

Nice slab on solid edges.

Excellent low angled thin slab through shallow scoop. More and more footers appear on close inspection

Great thin slab just in front of dead tree. Get those feet working.

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