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31 Flavours

  • Grade context: AU
  • Photos: 1
  • Ascents: 109
  • Aka: Middle Tier

Access: Cania Gorge National Park contains many sites of aboriginal cultural significance.

Check this link before visiting any new sectors in the area: https://core.ac.uk/download/pdf/303740859.pdf . In summary, don't climb within a 4km radius of the Cania Gorge Tourist Retreat. This includes 3 Moons Camp.

See warning details and discuss

Created 8 months ago

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Description

The middle tier of the Milky Way. Everything you want from fully bolted routes to mixed and pure trad. Cracks and face climbing side by side.

Access issues inherited from Cania Gorge

There are significant sensitive cultural areas in the south of the park. At least five caves in the southern end of the park show evidence of long established aboriginal occupation. Do NOT climb near the tourist tracks, picnic areas, on private land or any where you may make a bad impression. If you are unsure don't do it till you gain more knowledge ie. use some common sense

Ethic inherited from Cania Gorge

Trad climbers have been active at Cania since the 70's. All are encouraged to post their routes here. It's likely that some routes currently being claimed have been climbed before. Please keep this in mind when bolting. There are plenty of unprotected walls ripe for bolting but please leave naturally protected lines to those able to climb them in trad style. That way everybody gets to live their dream and we hopefully avoid conflict with the old guard. - JL

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Routes

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FFA: Steve Kloske & Brendan Kranker, Aug 2014

FA: Steve Kloske & Brendan Kranker, Aug 2014

FFA: Steve Kloske & Oskar Kindbom, Aug 2014

FA: Steve Kloske & Oskar Kindbom, Aug 2014

Far left end of the main wall. Start near tree in corner following twin cracks. After knobby orange feature, follow single crack to top. Great gear, holds and jams.

FFA: Jayd Blunden & Bernie Walsh, 12 Aug 2014

Start up triple cracks into broken wide crack. Out of this onto face and up, climbing RH face of gully at the top.

FFA: Bernie Walsh, Jayd Blunden & Susy Goldner, 12 Aug 2014

Follow bolts up to horizontal break (cam or wire) then continue up passing 2 more bolts to anchor.

FFA: Cheyne Hobbs Steve Kloske, Aug 2014

Two routes on the topos were previously listed as A Second of Destruction. This is the one on the right.

Twin cracks 2 m right of ASOD. Up cracks and straight up to tree belay.

FFA: Andrew Ringeri & Emanuele Lagana, 11 Aug 2019

Starts at next large crack right of BU. Up wide crack, traverse left and pull over bulge (small wires). Up onto ledge, then right hand facing corner to top. Tree belay(s).

FFA: Andrew Ringeri & Emanuele Lagana, 11 Aug 2019

Start at the same crack as MCC, traverse out right and follow the crack passing the tree on the left, then up to the top staying on the right. Tree belay

FA: Brendan Coulter, Aug 2014

Boulder up the rippled section to the big ledge, then easily up the lighter coloured rock to tree belay

FA: Brendan Coulter & Rachael Brock, Jun 2020

Shares the start of Marshmellow to the ledge then then up the orange streak. Stand on you belayer's shoulders to reach the pockets or boulder the start.

FA: Josiah Hess, Jun 2020

Boulder problem to the two large pockets (crux) then up to ledge. Thin face climbing up the white streak on small gear (grade 22).

FA: Josiah Hess, Jun 2020

Another crack.

FA: Oskar Kindbom & Brendan Kranker, 12 Aug 2014

Climb the blank start to the magnificent finger crack. The FFA was done with out a bolt protecting the start.

FFA: Steve Kloske & Susy Goldner, Aug 2014

Start just left of the tree stump and follow the line of bolts straight up.

FA: Oskar Kindbom, 12 Aug 2014

The right-most crack on the cliff. Hardish start then very fun JamBing and jug hauling to top. Belay from tree on left. Rap off same tree.

FA: Phil Box & Craig Thomson, 11 Aug 2014

Start just left of CS following the line of bolts and natural gear to anchors

FFA: Steve Kloske & Brendan Kranker, Aug 2014

The first bolted line on the RHS of the Milky Way. 3 Bolts with supplementary gear and a lower off

FFA: Steve Kloske, Aug 2014

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