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Cold Rock

  • Grade context: AU
  • Photos: 2
  • Ascents: 36
  • Aka: Lower Tier

Access: Cania Gorge National Park contains many sites of aboriginal cultural significance.

Check this link before visiting any new sectors in the area: https://core.ac.uk/download/pdf/303740859.pdf . In summary, don't climb within a 4km radius of the Cania Gorge Tourist Retreat. This includes 3 Moons Camp.

See warning details and discuss

Created 8 months ago - Edited 7 months ago
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Description

The lower teir of the milky way

Access issues inherited from Cania Gorge

There are significant sensitive cultural areas in the south of the park. At least five caves in the southern end of the park show evidence of long established aboriginal occupation. Do NOT climb near the tourist tracks, picnic areas, on private land or any where you may make a bad impression. If you are unsure don't do it till you gain more knowledge ie. use some common sense

Ethic inherited from Cania Gorge

Trad climbers have been active at Cania since the 70's. All are encouraged to post their routes here. It's likely that some routes currently being claimed have been climbed before. Please keep this in mind when bolting. There are plenty of unprotected walls ripe for bolting but please leave naturally protected lines to those able to climb them in trad style. That way everybody gets to live their dream and we hopefully avoid conflict with the old guard. - JL

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Routes

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Grade Route

FFA: Craig & Phil Box, 12 Aug 2014

Just right of 'Tesselated Nuts'. Great climbing up the zig/zag thin seam to exciting exit. Climb one of the routes off the top out ledge to reach the 31 flavours terrace.

FFA: Jayd Blunden, Susy Goldner & Bernie Walsh, 12 Aug 2014

Up the crack system in the corner of the ledge above 'Running on Vaporlocks'

FFA: Bernie Walsh, Susy Goldner & Jayd Blunden, 12 Aug 2014

Step right from the start of 'Shower of Love' to the dead tree. Move carefully off the small leafy ledge onto glowing orange wall bisected by a tasty crack. Simply gorgeous jamming and jugs lead to a bridging exit at a tree.

FFA: Susy Goldner, Jayd Blunden & Bernie Walsh, 12 Aug 2014

Up the grey face and just right of the fig tree at half height then up the orange streak left of the black patch. Trend back right to top out.

Up orange streak right of the black patch. Small gear for the crux - we used ball nuts.

FA: Adam Kerz & David Collard, 30 Aug 2020

Up the crack on the right of the orange patch.

All of the routes on this face have surprisingly good gear, although the starts are sometimes a bit sparse. At the top of this route are some rap rings to save the trees; accessible by all routes on this face.

FA: Dani Hess, Adam Kerz & David Collard, 30 Aug 2020

2m left of the vegetated crack. Through the middle of the small overhang at the ground then fairly straight up. A small (black or white) tri-cam was the first piece in some sneaky pockets otherwise your first piece might be quite high. Good nuts all the way to the top.

FA: Adam Kerz, Michael Hirning, David Collard & Dani Hess, 30 Aug 2020

Up the vegetated crack

Start as for Red Vine, traverse right to the obvious weaknesses. Finish just right of the tree. Tree belay or gear on back wall.

FA: Dale Williamson & Adam Kerz, 20 Sep 2020

Start up the very left of the undercut and then keep traversing right as low as possible whilst still finding gear (it's there). Then to the arete and up.

FA: Adam Kerz & Dale Williamson, 20 Sep 2020

A fun easy ramble. Start right of big capped boulder at twin cracks below a short ramp. Named for Ben Carter who, upon dropping his wires at the start of comic relief at Arapiles, looked down and uttered the now infamous exclamation "Game Over"

FFA: Susy Goldner, Bernie Walsh & Jayd Blunden, 12 Aug 2014

Up crack with plenty of face holds and into pleasant chimney with gear in the back. Continue upwards to tree belay.

FA: Josiah Hess & Dani Hess, Sep 2020

Hard start up to the tree then continue up crack and over steep bulge. Climb the easy face to the top and tree belay.

FA: Josiah Hess & Dani Hess, Sep 2020

Starts at the tree stump right of Remains of the Dale. Step in from the left, and follow your nose to the ledge.

From here, head up the super thin seam. Climbs independently from the corner (which is yet to be climbed), but close enough you can step across. Top out to belay from same tree as RotD.

The well protected thin crack on a ledge far right on cold rock wall. cruse up the finger crack before it closes prematurely to less than ideal tips....think tall thoughts.

FFA: Kyle Addy & Daniel Smith, 24 Apr 2019

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