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Access: Cania Gorge National Park contains many sites of aboriginal cultural significance.

Check this link before visiting any new sectors in the area: https://core.ac.uk/download/pdf/303740859.pdf . In summary, don't climb within a 4km radius of the Cania Gorge Tourist Retreat. This includes 3 Moons Camp.

See warning details and discuss

Created 8 months ago

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Description

The fractured length of cliff stretching between Four Seasons Point and Lost Cow.

Access issues inherited from Cania Gorge

There are significant sensitive cultural areas in the south of the park. At least five caves in the southern end of the park show evidence of long established aboriginal occupation. Do NOT climb near the tourist tracks, picnic areas, on private land or any where you may make a bad impression. If you are unsure don't do it till you gain more knowledge ie. use some common sense

Approach

As for approach to Four Seasons Point, then continue climbers right along cliff to reach Lazy Ledges

Descent notes

Rap off trees. Beware drag at times. Use tat where necessary.

Ethic inherited from Cania Gorge

Trad climbers have been active at Cania since the 70's. All are encouraged to post their routes here. It's likely that some routes currently being claimed have been climbed before. Please keep this in mind when bolting. There are plenty of unprotected walls ripe for bolting but please leave naturally protected lines to those able to climb them in trad style. That way everybody gets to live their dream and we hopefully avoid conflict with the old guard. - JL

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Routes

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Chossy corner up to dodgy tree belay. Apparently above the start of Four Seasons Point.

FFA: Simon Robinson & Angel Freeman, Jul 2015

Jug ladder. Topout is in front of te overhang/cave to the left of The Forgotten Sole.

FFA: Marc Maeji & Kwan Goddard-Lee, Jul 2015

Just right of Four Seasons Point, on the ledge above The right of the two wide cracks. Follow the chimney up past the dodgy chockstone, then top out on the left to a tree belay. A cool alternative route can involve topping out through the hole next to the tree.

FFA: Simon Robinson & Vaughan Christie, Jul 2015

Start at The Forgotten Sole and move out onto the face and up past first ledge and jugs. Move left at the second ledge to finish up the arete.

Climbs the steep left leaning finger crack up to the massive shelf and over bulge.

FA: Josiah Hess & Dani Hess, Jun 2021

The caveledge that'd be comfy to walk through if you were a hobbit. Shame we're not.

Pull up over the overhang that is Hobbit Cave, on the ledge just left of The Quila Climb.

FFA: Simon Robinson & Angel Freeman, Jul 2015

Something to do with Kwan and a fun time. Follow the crack up to the tree belay. Climb starts between Fruity Lexia and Plato's Cave.

FFA: Kwan Goddard-Lee, Alex Mougenot & Vaughan Christie, Jul 2015

Link The Quila roof crack boulder problem into The Quila Climb. Unorthodox but cool!

FFA: Alex Mougenot, Jul 2015

The fun short roof handcrack below The Quila Climb. Makes an awesome linkup.

FFA: Alex Mougenot & Kwan Goddard-Lee, Jul 2015

The ledge across the small gully below The Quila Climb that marks the end of Hobbit Ledge.

Named so after the philosopher Plato's Allegory of the Cave. Search it up. Plato's Cave is the name of the cave further along Plato's Ledge.

Very committing first move from the ledge out of Plato's Cave. Up the flat face then trend left following the line of least resistance to top.

FFA: Kwan Goddard-Lee & Angel Freeman, Jul 2015

Committing jumpstart to jug from the centre of the platform of Plato's Cave. A solid wire can be placed from the ground to protect the dyno. Beware the drop behind! Up face, then follow cracks on left, until you reach a blank face on you right. Cut right across that and up poxy, sketchy steep face left of arete. Take small wires for protection.

Beware the huge, precariously balancing deathblock on the arete if you go off route !!!

FFA: Alex Mougenot & Vaughan Christie, Jul 2015

The obvious chimney 8m right of Plato's Cave. Up this until it runs out, then follow crack to top, escaping right around ferns to tree belay.

FFA: Alex Mougenot & Kwan Goddard-Lee, Jul 2015

Around the corner to the right from Tastes Like Pee. Start from the right crack up below averasge rock, then enter the chimney. Follow the perfect handcrack up the comfy chimney. Tree belay.

FFA: Alex Mougenot & Kwan Goddard-Lee, Jul 2015

Fantastic climb around the corner to the right from The Ugly Duckling.

Climb up a beautiful overhanging semi-detached flake to a perfect splitter offwidth. Up this with much difficulty, swearing, and prayers to the top. Beware potential block before the offwidth proper. It doesn't move, but feels sketchy.

To access, scramble with care around the precarious corner to the belay ledge. Consider roping up for this, as there's a 30m drop below.

FFA: Alex Mougenot & Kwan Goddard-Lee, Jul 2015

The next rout starts above Bananaflower.

Above Bananaflower. Start on offwidth layback, the traverse right and up following crack. Surprisingly fun. Starts 12m right of the topout above Bananaflower.

FFA: Kwan Goddard-Lee & Alex Mougenot, Jul 2015

3m left of Little Dusty. Finishes on the same tree as Little Dusty.

FFA: Kwan Goddard-Lee & Angel Freeman, Jul 2015

Great beginner trad lead. Short and a little dusty. Climb up to tree belay.

FFA: Angel Freeman & Kwan Goddard-Lee, Jul 2015

Start up offwidth layback, and follow this to a chimney-ish feature. Start from Little Dusty's tree belay.

FFA: Kwan Goddard-Lee & Angel Freeman, Jul 2015

Up Possum Jackson Pollock's layback start, then traverse right where the other crack breaks out. Up the nice clean handcrack to finish.

FFA: Alex Mougenot & Kwan Goddard-Lee, Jul 2015

Up the face and arete left of Hooked on a Ceiling

Starts where the broken BMO mug is. Follow crack left of RIP BMO. Proceed to the roof, and follow offwidth crack on left to tree belay. Slings will be handy.

FFA: Vaughan Christie & Simon Robinson, Jul 2015

Start on blank face right of Hooked on a Ceiling. Right of the broken BMO mug at the bottom. Traverse right along roof, then go straight up the slab. Climb to tree belay.

FFA: Angel Freeman & Kwan Goddard-Lee

An ode to a local's encounter with a manky, lovable, indestructible stray cat called Chunky. Much better than it looks! The rooflet 10m left of 'Tradical' . Follow the corner crack, following it under the roof, and then jug to glory. Trad belay on ledge above. Scramble out left to 'Plato's Ledge', or right to 'Super Awesome Epic Ledge'.

FFA: Liam Boyle & Alex Mougenot, Jun 2017

Tradical's shittier brother. It is the crack on the left. Follow this until the cracks meet again. Can continue straight up, though it's nicer to finish off right with Tradical.

FA: Vaughan Christie & Angel Freeman, Jul 2015

FFA: Alex Mougenot & Liam Boyle, Jun 2017

Shitical's radical brother. The classic of Lazy Ledges. It is the one on the right. Tree belay.

FFA: Kwan Goddard-Lee, Angel Freeman & Alex Mougenot, Jul 2015

Ledge above Tradical / Shitical with large tree belay.

From top of the Tradical/Shitical belay, traverse right on wires, then up a tricky boulder problem to corner crack. Tree belay. Beware the high fall factor at the boulder problem! Good climb to access Epic Ledge.

FFA: Alex Mougenot & Kwan Goddard-Lee, Jun 2015

Ledge above Feck Ledge. Hosts a great handful of tucked away steep crack lines.

The overhanging corner offwidth that just begs to be climbed so that it can spit you off right when you think it's over ... The rightmost crack in the left alcove of the ledge.

FFA: Alex Mougenot & Liam Boyle, Jun 2017

The hidden 7m roof crack. Starts 4m left of the widest part of the ledge at a short hand-sized corner crack. Up this short section onto ledge at 3m, then nice jambing up twin cracks to chimney. Up this then follow the left of the 2 roof cracks up and out through 7m of roof. Think outside the box.

FFA: Alex Mougenot & Kwan Goddard-Lee, Jul 2015

Climb up crack on the right, through the tree. Crux is likely to be the dodgy flake. Proceed to chimney to dodgy tree belay.

FFA: Vaughan Christie & Simon Robinson, Jul 2015

A good climb for the beginner trad leader. Climb next to a nice smelling tree to tree belay.

FFA: Simran Assan & Angel Freeman, Jul 2015

4m right of Nice Smelly Tree Climb. Follow crack as it leads slightly left then up. Beware of bush with sticks.

FFA: Vaughan Christie & Simran Assan, Jul 2015

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