Routes in Mt Walsh National Park

A long and adventurous pitch. The Biggenden Rose Festival is a good excuse to sneak a cheeky climb in before heading to the festival.

Climb up the tricky slab past three bolts and then up crack with good gear. Continue up the small crack with gear then up the slab past 4 more bolts.

A tad contrived but fun. Start at Grand hotel but clip the left bolt. Climb up the face on small pockets to a stance on the left, then continue up the face past gear (offset nuts) and a bolt to the DBB.

P1) 40M 20, As for Grand Hotel. Climb the slab passing 2 FH to gain the zig zagging crack, once the crack finishes keep climbing past the first DDB for another 5 FH to reach a nice ledge and DBB belay here.

P2) 20m 10, scramble up towards the headwall passing 2 FH and gear to a DBB at the base of the head wall.

P3) 30M 22, A beautiful pitch with just the right amount of exposure. From the belay follow 3 FH to reach a corner crack, up this until it runs out, then follow another 3 FH to reach a comfortable ledge and DBB.

P4) 20m, climb the slab passing 1 FH to gain a chimney like grove up this then slab to top and DDB.

The best pool and parmy in Biggenden. Climb up the slab past two bolts and then up the zig zagging crack. For full value, clip the anchor with an extender and continue up the slab past 5 bolts.

The best route on the lower wall of the cathedral. A tricky slab that follows the golden water streak. Take a set of nuts.

The only sport route at Mt Walsh, forgive me father for I have sinned.

The crack to the right of Slab Dad. Follow crack until it finishes, up slab passing 1 FH To DBB.

1. Cool moves pulling onto the arete and up tiered face followed by some thin moves on each bulge.

2. Unprotected scramble up to corner, then plenty of good placements to single bolt anchor and natural pro.

A left leaning hand crack starting from a ledge near the top of the bluff. To access, leave the tourist track at the last set of painted arrows before the summit and crawl through a small cave. Walk along ledge until you are at the base of the climb.

Up slab to the interesting bulge, follow the off-width crack either straight up or head to the back of the pillar for some spinning chock stone goodness. Finish up obvious hand crack exiting to the left for belay station. Pitch 2 is a pure scramble to escape to the ledge which finishes at the base of 'Awkward Caterpillar'.

Up slab to thin crack. Pull through a dubious crux and then up hand crack to ledge. Continue up crack to the right and scramble up the slab to a trad belay. It is possible to scramble back down to the ground by heading right.

From ground level scramble 4m up to ledge with good shade, the climb starts here. A few pieces of gear will lead you to 3 FH and DBB, best to extend the belay to the better ledge. This is an access route to the Chossageddon and Choss Monster.

number 3 BD is needed for the start.

Climbs right after clipping the first bolt of Gluten Free.

1. 20m (19) The crack directly right of the large overhang. A fun offwidth, protectable by mid sized gear at the back, quickly turns into a smorgasbord of hand-jams and finger-locks, with solid rock and bomber placements the whole way. Trad belay near small tree.

2. 30m (10) Squeeze through the chimney behind the overhang and then chimney up the right-hand side of the boulder to get back to the summit.

An ugly chimney!

P1) 25m 24 P2) 35m 23

A glorious chimney followed by a gymnastics style hand jam through a bulge. Bonus points if you can do it without grunting! Finish left to small tree for belay and escape via scramble further up left. Stays in shade all day!

Adjective: batshit;

Completely mad or crazy.

Hard to get established in the crack, once in groan and grunt your way up the off-width past two obvious crux's to ledges then up faint hand crack to tree belay.

Start up the obvious finger crack behind the flake just to the right of Who are you Biggeden, Follow it to a small ledge then trend left entering the offwidth, continue up until you can pull yourself up and over the large chockstone at the top of the crack. To tree belay.

Up chimney to tricky exit. Walk up the slab to finish up a corner crack.

Located along the tape marked track behind the bluff. Up the line of weakness to a tricky section in the middle then continue up the offwidth crack to a small tree. You can walk off from the top.

Fist sized corner roof crack located on the south-east side of the summit. Awaiting a free ascent.