Help

Access: Cania Gorge National Park contains many sites of aboriginal cultural significance.

Check this link before visiting any new sectors in the area: https://core.ac.uk/download/pdf/303740859.pdf . In summary, don't climb within a 4km radius of the Cania Gorge Tourist Retreat. This includes 3 Moons Camp.

See warning details and discuss

Created 9 months ago
10

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Description

The northern-most walls of Cania.

Access issues inherited from Cania Gorge

There are significant sensitive cultural areas in the south of the park. At least five caves in the southern end of the park show evidence of long established aboriginal occupation. Do NOT climb near the tourist tracks, picnic areas, on private land or any where you may make a bad impression. If you are unsure don't do it till you gain more knowledge ie. use some common sense

Approach

As per the approach for Castle but keep walking around to the left. About an hour's walk-in. Bit rough and bushbashy.

Ethic inherited from Cania Gorge

Trad climbers have been active at Cania since the 70's. All are encouraged to post their routes here. It's likely that some routes currently being claimed have been climbed before. Please keep this in mind when bolting. There are plenty of unprotected walls ripe for bolting but please leave naturally protected lines to those able to climb them in trad style. That way everybody gets to live their dream and we hopefully avoid conflict with the old guard. - JL

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route

An deceptive little sucker... Quite a nice splitter despite the tree guarding the start! The first obvious splitter crack you come to after The Castle, walking east.

FA: Alex Mougenot & Chris Frost

Up the right side of the broken face. Quite a committing top section.

FFA: Josiah Hess, zac & James dobson

The broken face just round the corner from the small cave. Follow the line of lease resistance with plenty of nut placements.

FFA: James Dobson, Josiah Hess & zac

In the main roof section of The North. Follows the high corner roof crack, starting off eerie hanging diving boards.

Average rock quality and potential wasps.

FFA: Dave Cook, Jun 2017

Just left of 'Grum on the Bound'. Undercut start and pumpy.

FFA: Josiah Hess, Jun 2017

Named after a faithful friend who is so wiped he couldn't make the trip this Easter. Tricky start to slaby finger crack breach the first overhang on jugs to hands/ finger crack with a few hand hold to the second over hang get some exposure navigating this overhang to chimney top out super fun climb!

FA: Zac Trembath-Pitham & Josiah Hess, 15 Apr 2017

Voices of the Sky's northern brother. Fantastic.

FA: Alex Mougenot & Chris Frost, Oct 2016

Either a pleasant bridging jaunt or squeeze. Pick your poison. The R-facing wide corner crack on the upper tier left of Voices of the North. Tiptoe respectfully around the ferns onto the R face up through divine unlikely pockets.

FA: Alex Mougenot & Chris Frost, Oct 2016

About 50m left of Lithophyte you'll find this fractured face. Launch up the right side of the face and embrace the grin on your face as you swim your way through unlikely shell-pieces. A beaut for the grade.

FA: Chris Frost & Alex Mougenot, Oct 2016

Did you know?

Did you know that you can create an account to record, track and share your climbing ascents? Thousands of climbers are already doing this.

Activity

Check out what is happening in The North.

Deutsch English Español Français Italiano 한국어 中文