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The North Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

zac Josiah Hess Matt Fingleton Dave OS James Dobson Steffen & Saskia Bollmann Ken Thrash

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. The North 11 routes in Sector

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -24.652658, 151.004205

description

The northern-most walls of Cania.

access issues

There are significant sensitive cultural areas in the south of the park. At least five caves in the southern end of the park show evidence of long established aboriginal occupation. Do NOT climb near the tourist tracks, picnic areas, on private land or any where you may make a bad impression. If you are unsure don't do it till you gain more knowledge ie. use some common sense

inherited from Cania Gorge

approach

As per the approach for Castle but keep walking around to the left. About an hour's walk-in. Bit rough and bushbashy.

ethic

Trad climbers have been active at Cania since the 70's. All are encouraged to post their routes here. It's likely that some routes currently being claimed have been climbed before. Please keep this in mind when bolting. There are plenty of unprotected walls ripe for bolting but please leave naturally protected lines to those able to climb them in trad style. That way everybody gets to live their dream and we hopefully avoid conflict with the old guard. - JL

inherited from Cania Gorge
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Phantom

An deceptive little sucker... Quite a nice splitter despite the tree guarding the start! The first obvious splitter crack you come to after The Castle, walking east.

FA: Alex Mougenot & Chris Frost

19 Trad 15m
2 Na Bro Yoyo

Up the right side of the broken face. Quite a committing top section.

FFA: Josiah Hess, zac & James dobson

14 Trad 20m
3 Nut Gobbler

The broken face just round the corner from the small cave. Follow the line of lease resistance with plenty of nut placements.

FFA: James Dobson, Josiah Hess & zac

15 Trad 20m
4 Stag Party

Climbs up the centre of the pillar just to the right of the large cave ending in a spectacular position on top of the pillar with great views to the Dam. To reach belay pull around lip of cave and traverse carefully across mossy wall to belay at base of left leaning corner. Climbs corner direct slinging tree at half height to juggy face above finishing on top of pillar. Downclimb easy face to rap off tree to clean.

FFA: Matt Fingleton & KrystleJWright, 26 Jul 2023

16 Trad 20m
5 Falcon Guard

In the main roof section of The North. Follows the high corner roof crack, starting off eerie hanging diving boards.

TradProject
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 Grum on the Bound

Average rock quality and potential wasps.

FFA: Dave Cook, Jun 2017

18 Trad 15m
7 Wasted Days

Just left of 'Grum on the Bound'. Undercut start and pumpy.

FFA: Josiah Hess, Jun 2017

20 Trad 15m
8 Shed a Tear for the Virgin

Named after a faithful friend who is so wiped he couldn't make the trip this Easter. Tricky start to slaby finger crack breach the first overhang on jugs to hands/ finger crack with a few hand hold to the second over hang get some exposure navigating this overhang to chimney top out super fun climb!

FA: Zac Trembath-Pitham & Josiah Hess, 15 Apr 2017

21 Trad 35m
9 Voices of the North

Voices of the Sky's northern brother. Fantastic.

FA: Alex Mougenot & Chris Frost, Oct 2016

TradProject 25m
10 Lithophyte

Either a pleasant bridging jaunt or squeeze. Pick your poison. The R-facing wide corner crack on the upper tier left of Voices of the North. Tiptoe respectfully around the ferns onto the R face up through divine unlikely pockets.

FA: Alex Mougenot & Chris Frost, Oct 2016

15 Trad 16m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
11 Coming of the Fishman

About 50m left of Lithophyte you'll find this fractured face. Launch up the right side of the face and embrace the grin on your face as you swim your way through unlikely shell-pieces. A beaut for the grade.

FA: Chris Frost & Alex Mougenot, Oct 2016

15 Trad 25m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
14 Na Bro Yoyo Trad 20m
15 Coming of the Fishman Trad 25m
Lithophyte Trad 16m
Nut Gobbler Trad 20m
16 Stag Party Trad 20m
18 Grum on the Bound Trad 15m
19 Phantom Trad 15m
20 Wasted Days Trad 15m
21 Shed a Tear for the Virgin Trad 35m
? Falcon Guard TradProject
Voices of the North TradProject 25m
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