A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
Warning
Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.
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Usage policy
Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Alex Mougenot zac Josiah Hess Matt Fingleton Dave OS KrystleJWright James Dobson Steffen & Saskia Bollmann Ken Thrash
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1. The North 11 in Sector
- 2. Index by grade
1. The North 11 routes in Sector
- Summary:
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All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -24.652658, 151.004205
description
The northern-most walls of Cania.
access issues
There are significant sensitive cultural areas in the south of the park. At least five caves in the southern end of the park show evidence of long established aboriginal occupation. Do NOT climb near the tourist tracks, picnic areas, on private land or any where you may make a bad impression. If you are unsure don't do it till you gain more knowledge ie. use some common sense
approach
As per the approach for Castle but keep walking around to the left. About an hour's walk-in. Bit rough and bushbashy.
ethic
Trad climbers have been active at Cania since the 70's. All are encouraged to post their routes here. It's likely that some routes currently being claimed have been climbed before. Please keep this in mind when bolting. There are plenty of unprotected walls ripe for bolting but please leave naturally protected lines to those able to climb them in trad style. That way everybody gets to live their dream and we hopefully avoid conflict with the old guard. - JL
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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1 |
★ Phantom
An deceptive little sucker... Quite a nice splitter despite the tree guarding the start! The first obvious splitter crack you come to after The Castle, walking east. FA: Alex Mougenot & Chris Frost | 19 | 15m | |||||
2 |
Na Bro Yoyo
Up the right side of the broken face. Quite a committing top section. FFA: Josiah Hess, zac & James dobson | 14 | 20m | |||||
3 |
★ Nut Gobbler
The broken face just round the corner from the small cave. Follow the line of lease resistance with plenty of nut placements. FFA: James Dobson, Josiah Hess & zac | 15 | 20m | |||||
4 |
★★ Stag Party
Climbs up the centre of the pillar just to the right of the large cave ending in a spectacular position on top of the pillar with great views to the Dam. To reach belay pull around lip of cave and traverse carefully across mossy wall to belay at base of left leaning corner. Climbs corner direct slinging tree at half height to juggy face above finishing on top of pillar. Downclimb easy face to rap off tree to clean. FFA: Matt Fingleton & KrystleJWright, 26 Jul 2023 | 16 | 20m | |||||
5 |
★★ Falcon Guard
In the main roof section of The North. Follows the high corner roof crack, starting off eerie hanging diving boards. | |||||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
6 |
Grum on the Bound
Average rock quality and potential wasps. FFA: Dave Cook, Jun 2017 | 18 | 15m | |||||
7 |
Wasted Days
Just left of 'Grum on the Bound'. Undercut start and pumpy. FFA: Josiah Hess, Jun 2017 | 20 | 15m | |||||
8 |
★★ Shed a Tear for the Virgin
Named after a faithful friend who is so wiped he couldn't make the trip this Easter. Tricky start to slaby finger crack breach the first overhang on jugs to hands/ finger crack with a few hand hold to the second over hang get some exposure navigating this overhang to chimney top out super fun climb! FA: Zac Trembath-Pitham & Josiah Hess, 15 Apr 2017 | 21 | 35m | |||||
9 |
★★★ Voices of the North
Voices of the Sky's northern brother. Fantastic. FA: Alex Mougenot & Chris Frost, Oct 2016 | 25m | ||||||
10 |
★ Lithophyte
Either a pleasant bridging jaunt or squeeze. Pick your poison. The R-facing wide corner crack on the upper tier left of Voices of the North. Tiptoe respectfully around the ferns onto the R face up through divine unlikely pockets. FA: Alex Mougenot & Chris Frost, Oct 2016 | 15 | 16m | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
11 |
★ Coming of the Fishman
About 50m left of Lithophyte you'll find this fractured face. Launch up the right side of the face and embrace the grin on your face as you swim your way through unlikely shell-pieces. A beaut for the grade. FA: Chris Frost & Alex Mougenot, Oct 2016 | 15 | 25m |
2. Index by grade
Grade | Stars | Name | Style | Pop | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
14 | Na Bro Yoyo | 20m | |||
15 | ★ | Coming of the Fishman | 25m | ||
★ | Lithophyte | 16m | |||
★ | Nut Gobbler | 20m | |||
16 | ★★ | Stag Party | 20m | ||
18 | Grum on the Bound | 15m | |||
19 | ★ | Phantom | 15m | ||
20 | Wasted Days | 15m | |||
21 | ★★ | Shed a Tear for the Virgin | 35m | ||
? | ★★ | Falcon Guard | |||
★★★ | Voices of the North | 25m |