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Terrors Creek

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Description

Terror's Creek has a large and fairly confused history. It seems as though many of QLD's strong climbers of the past have been through this area over the years. A combination of broken holds and blurry memories however have rendered a lot of the past descriptions pretty inaccurate. This is an attempt to get this crag up to date for future crushers.

The rock consists of 'Greenstone', (metamorphosed basalt), and is very resistant to rain damage.

Approach

There is parking for one to four (maybe 5small) cars behind the guard rail. Bear in mind however first in will be stuck until second in moves their vehicle and so on down the line of parked cars).

Parking is 5.5km from the Mt Mee Rd turn off from Dayboro. Turn in behind the "Terrors Creek - George Juffs Bridge" sign. Be careful pulling back onto Mt Mee Road as both corners are quite blind and vehicles are traveling at speed up and down this road.

From the parking, follow the vague track down to the boulders in the creek. Walk along the boulders for a couple of minutes until you reach a steepish section. Go down this, there will be a large boulder on your right. This is the back of the Main Boulder. Walk around the end of this boulder and you will see the Main Area.

If you scramble down the creek from the main boulder you will find the "easy" slabs of the lower tier.

Routes

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Grade Route

Get ready to pull hard on small crimps, and a couple conveniently placed mono's.

Very overhanging wall. Start on side pull and rail. Throw for left hold, match, throw for another left hold, left heel hook after big move to top. Press like mad....you don't want to fall off. Nick W

This was previously ‘Kiss My Witness’ V6. Holds broke and alas was a project for some time before a “post break repeat” grade confirmation.

Start with both hands on low incut rail. Follow obvious break straight up and finish as for ‘Silent Witness'

FA: Sam Bowman, 22 Aug 2021

Possibly lives up to the name. It would appear that holds have broken since Brad S and Nick W first documented this boulder. A powerful, aggressive crimp boulder that needs a repeat to reconfirm the grade. Would appear at least V11.

Sit Start on good two finger side pull and crimp. Hard first moves left into small crimps, then finish as for ‘Kiss My Witness’.

Brad S and Nick W (Pictures on StrandedClimbers.Blogspot.com.au)

Absolute cracker of a one move wonder. Start on incut edge in middle of wall. Do a big move to good edge, match, then finish up an easy mantle (as for 'Kiss the Witness'). Definitely harder for those challenged in the ways of the span.

FA: Sam Bowman, 22 May 2020

Stand start on left hand edge and right hand crimp. Big first move into right gaston, then follow good edges to first obvious top out. Mantle is tricky so be careful. Unsure on First Ascensionist, please get in touch with more info!

FA: Unknown

Start as for the v7 finishing up the mantle of the v4 trending below the lip on good holds moving back down before heading up to the mantle.

FA: I'm sure some one has already done this

Guess this needs a new name. Low start on the first of the monos and the obvious incut edge, with a pretty crucial toehook. Climb straight through the roof for a few moves before finishing up The V7. One of QLD's new hardest boulders.

FA: Sam Bowman, 22 May 2020

Mega Rig climbing the steepest most sustained part of the overhanging wall, likely a project for future generations.

Start left hand on the arete, right hand on lower crimp. Overhanging arete above the small pool near the entrance as you approach super overhanging wall.

FA: Finn, 19 Mar 2022

Start on the incut pinch and incut right-hand hold.

Underneath rock opposite the main wall. Start matching second lowest rail (Could go from lower rail but will probably break off) with double toe hook over lip. Pull onto jugs/lip and traverse left to mantle.

FA: Lee Prescott, 18 Dec 2021

LH undercling RH arete, traverse right, top out for Unkown Gnome.

Start lower on the small footholds used in the V3, big move out to the shelf.

FA: Unknown

Smaller overhang below the witness boulder. Start low on crimps, blast up and left to a vicious mantle.

Start on the left pocket side-pull and right side-pull just above ground level. Use a series of crimps and slopes to gain the mantle. The boulder on the right is out but using it goes a bit easier.

FA: Tim Janetzki, 28 May 2023

Start matched on the small blocky hold, figure out how to do the large move to the middle crimp and mantle. Avoid wall on the left.

FA: Finn McCallum, 17 Oct 2021

Start matched on obvious low rail, follow arete, top out for Khosy’s Cosy Climb.

Sit start matched on the low blob, follow arete

Found to the right of Troglodyte boulder.

Routes

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Grade Route

Start matched on the low sloping jug. Line of least resistance takes you around its jaw where you grab his eyebrows and slap him in the face to mantle. Great beginner problem! Chockstones are out.

FA: Alexander Jones, 28 May 2023

Start matched on the sloping jug. Slap some gator cheeks and mantle directly. Chockstones are out.

FA: Tim Janetzki, 28 May 2023

Areas

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Simon Carter

Date: 2018

ISBN: 9780958079068

A few years ago there was basically Frog Buttress and Coolum. Since then there has been more development than Barangaroo and South East Queensland should be on any climbers radar no matter what your style. Except ice climbing, definitely no ice climbing. But over 1250 routes with hard sport, multipitches and quality trad to make a great trip.

Author(s): Jimmy Blackhall & David Jefferson

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9377779499658

Hidden within the ordinary people of Queensland there exists a tight-knit community of scabby knuckles, grazed knees, massive forearms and iron-clad wills. This guidebooks seeks to shed light on this community and blocks of choice with all the information, skills and knowledge to open the door for you to explore all the bouldering that Queensland has to offer.

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