Help

Terrors Creek Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Warning

Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.

This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete and is subject to system errors. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings. This includes both errors from the content and system errors.

Nobody has checked this particlular guide so you cannot rely on it's accuracy like you would a store bought guide.

You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.

You must keep this warning with the guide. For more information refer to our:
Usage policy

Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Nick Foulds Alexander Jones Alistair Earley Brad Simpson jayden desmond Finn Lee Prescott Andrew Lightfoot Reagen

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Terrors Creek 32 routes in Crag

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -27.154044, 152.823818

description

Terror's Creek has a large and fairly confused history. It seems as though many of QLD's strong climbers of the past have been through this area over the years. A combination of broken holds and blurry memories however have rendered a lot of the past descriptions pretty inaccurate. This is an attempt to get this crag up to date for future crushers.

The rock consists of 'Greenstone', (metamorphosed basalt), and is very resistant to rain damage.

approach

There is parking for one to four (maybe 5small) cars behind the guard rail. Bear in mind however first in will be stuck until second in moves their vehicle and so on down the line of parked cars).

Parking is 5.5km from the Mt Mee Rd turn off from Dayboro. Turn in behind the "Terrors Creek - George Juffs Bridge" sign. Be careful pulling back onto Mt Mee Road as both corners are quite blind and vehicles are traveling at speed up and down this road.

From the parking, follow the vague track down to the boulders in the creek. Walk along the boulders for a couple of minutes until you reach a steepish section. Go down this, there will be a large boulder on your right. This is the back of the Main Boulder. Walk around the end of this boulder and you will see the Main Area.

If you scramble down the creek from the main boulder you will find the "easy" slabs of the lower tier.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

The Starship Boulder

Get ready to pull hard on small crimps, and a couple conveniently placed mono's.

2 Silent Witness

Very overhanging wall. Start on side pull and rail. Throw for left hold, match, throw for another left hold, left heel hook after big move to top. Press like mad....you don't want to fall off. Nick W

V4 Boulder 3m
3 Kiss My Witness

This was previously ‘Kiss My Witness’ V6. Holds broke and alas was a project for some time before a “post break repeat” grade confirmation.

Start with both hands on low incut rail. Follow obvious break straight up and finish as for ‘Silent Witness'

FA: Sam Bowman, 22 Aug 2021

V12 Boulder
4 Witness the Brittleness (Possible Regrade Project)

Possibly lives up to the name. It would appear that holds have broken since Brad S and Nick W first documented this boulder. A powerful, aggressive crimp boulder that needs a repeat to reconfirm the grade. Would appear at least V11.

Sit Start on good two finger side pull and crimp. Hard first moves left into small crimps, then finish as for ‘Kiss My Witness’.

Brad S and Nick W (Pictures on StrandedClimbers.Blogspot.com.au)

V11 - 13 BoulderProject
5 The Rack

Absolute cracker of a one move wonder. Start on incut edge in middle of wall. Do a big move to good edge, match, then finish up an easy mantle (as for 'Kiss the Witness'). Definitely harder for those challenged in the ways of the span.

FA: Sam Bowman, 22 May 2020

V10 Boulder
6 The V7

Stand start on left hand edge and right hand crimp. Big first move into right gaston, then follow good edges to first obvious top out. Mantle is tricky so be careful. Unsure on First Ascensionist, please get in touch with more info!

FA: Unknown

V7 Boulder
7 V7 link traverse

Start as for the v7 finishing up the mantle of the v4 trending below the lip on good holds moving back down before heading up to the mantle.

FA: I'm sure some one has already done this

V7 Boulder 6m
8 The Mono Proj

Guess this needs a new name. Low start on the first of the monos and the obvious incut edge, with a pretty crucial toehook. Climb straight through the roof for a few moves before finishing up The V7. One of QLD's new hardest boulders.

FA: Sam Bowman, 22 May 2020

V12/13 Boulder
9 The Spice Rack Proj

Mega Rig climbing the steepest most sustained part of the overhanging wall, likely a project for future generations.

BoulderProject
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

The Starship Boulder (front)

11 Flight of the Fat Man / Common Enemy of the Fat Man

Start left hand on the arete, right hand on lower crimp. Overhanging arete above the small pool near the entrance as you approach super overhanging wall.

FA: Finn, 19 Mar 2022

V11 Boulder
12 Project BoulderProject
13 My Green Life

Start on the incut pinch and incut right-hand hold.

V5 Boulder
14 Left Project BoulderProject
15 Right Project BoulderProject
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

Stinkbug Boulder

Beneath the main wall.

17 Stinkbugs from Hell

Underneath rock opposite the main wall. Start matching second lowest rail (Could go from lower rail but will probably break off) with double toe hook over lip. Pull onto jugs/lip and traverse left to mantle.

FA: Lee Prescott, 18 Dec 2021

V2 Boulder

Below The Main Area

19 Coach Don’t Play

LH undercling RH arete, traverse right, top out for Unkown Gnome.

V2 Boulder 2m
20 Unkown Gnome

Start lower on the small footholds used in the V3, big move out to the shelf.

FA: Unknown

V7 Boulder
21 Unknown

Smaller overhang below the witness boulder. Start low on crimps, blast up and left to a vicious mantle.

V3 Boulder 3m
22 Lung Infiltration

Start on the left pocket side-pull and right side-pull just above ground level. Use a series of crimps and slopes to gain the mantle. The boulder on the right is out but using it goes a bit easier.

FA: Tim Janetzki, 28 May 2023

V5 Boulder 2m
23 Khosy's Cosy Climb

Start matched on the small blocky hold, figure out how to do the large move to the middle crimp and mantle. Avoid wall on the left.

FA: Finn McCallum, 17 Oct 2021

V7/8 Boulder 2m
24 Abuse of Flower Comes as No Suprise

Start matched on obvious low rail, follow arete, top out for Khosy’s Cosy Climb.

V4 Boulder 3m
25 Hot wet action

Sit start matched on the low blob, follow arete

V3 Boulder 3m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

Gator Boulder

Found to the right of Troglodyte boulder.

27 Gator

Start matched on the low sloping jug. Line of least resistance takes you around its jaw where you grab his eyebrows and slap him in the face to mantle. Great beginner problem! Chockstones are out.

FA: Alexander Jones, 28 May 2023

V2 Boulder 2m
28 Aid

Start matched on the sloping jug. Slap some gator cheeks and mantle directly. Chockstones are out.

FA: Tim Janetzki, 28 May 2023

V3 Boulder 1m

1.1. Lower Tier 9 routes in Area

Summary:

Lat / Long: -27.153315, 152.823908

summary

The collection of slabby blocks (and some not) lower down the creek from the main boulder.

description

An area lower down the creek with more "accessible" grades to the average climber with some easy movement available to aid your warm-up. Probably not worth the visit for these boulders in their own right.

access issues

Be careful of coming here if there is any likelihood of heavy rain or after heavy rainfall. Much of this area is subject to being underwater.

approach

Reach lower tier by following down the blocks beneath main boulder.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Bucket slab

A slab with a fair few good buckets in it making for easy climbing on bombproof rock. Start at the bottom right of the block and trend up left to the top.

FA: Nick Foulds, 29 May 2021

V0 Boulder 3m
2 Bucket slab arete

The right hand arete of Bucket Slab. Easy on solid rock.

FA: Nick Foulds, 29 May 2021

V0 Boulder
3 Ladder Slab

The left side of the slab boulder below the Bucket slab boulder. Huge ladder rung type holds available for the bottom half of the boulder, maybe a slightly harder move at the top for the vertically challenged. Again excellent solid rock.

FA: Nick Foulds, 29 May 2021

V0 Boulder
4 Diminishing Arete

The right hand side of the Ladder Slab boulder. Smaller holds diminish the higher you climb leaving thin hands on good feet near the top. Trust your slab technique on this one. Again excellent quality rock.

FA: Nick Foulds, 29 May 2021

V1 Boulder
5 Two ways

Two ways to do two ways! either use a high heel and lay to the right (I would argue more fun this way) or use a toe and rock straight onto the face.

FA: Nick Foulds, 29 May 2021

V1 Boulder 2m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 Troglodyte Roof

There are likely several routes under the troglodyte roof probably exiting from either side of this bloc.

BoulderProject
7 King Scrub

Sit-start on shelf, bust to the lip then mantle. Not too bad at all.

FA: Alexander Jones, 21 May 2023

V4 Boulder 2m
8 Troglodyte Roof Right Project

Start on the largest shelf in the middle of the roof, head out towards the right side of the boulder.

BoulderProject
9 Troglodyte Roof Left Project

Start on the largest shelf in the middle of the roof, head out towards the left side of the boulder.

Boulder

1.2. Hill Side 0 routes in Boulder

description

This is on private land. Don't boulder here.

approach

There is none.

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop Area
V0 Bucket slab arete Boulder 1.1. Lower Tier
Ladder Slab Boulder 1.1. Lower Tier
The Bucket slab Boulder 3m 1.1. Lower Tier
V1 Diminishing Arete Boulder 1.1. Lower Tier
Two ways Boulder 2m 1.1. Lower Tier
V2 Coach Don’t Play Boulder 2m 1. Terrors Creek
Gator Boulder 2m 1. Terrors Creek
Stinkbugs from Hell Boulder 1. Terrors Creek
V3 Aid Boulder 1m 1. Terrors Creek
Hot wet action Boulder 3m 1. Terrors Creek
Unknown Boulder 3m 1. Terrors Creek
V4 Abuse of Flower Comes as No Suprise Boulder 3m 1. Terrors Creek
Silent Witness Boulder 3m 1. Terrors Creek
King Scrub Boulder 2m 1.1. Lower Tier
V5 Lung Infiltration Boulder 2m 1. Terrors Creek
My Green Life Boulder 1. Terrors Creek
V7 The V7 Boulder 1. Terrors Creek
Unkown Gnome Boulder 1. Terrors Creek
V7 link traverse Boulder 6m 1. Terrors Creek
V7/8 Khosy's Cosy Climb Boulder 2m 1. Terrors Creek
V10 The Rack Boulder 1. Terrors Creek
V11 Flight of the Fat Man Boulder 1. Terrors Creek
V12 Kiss My Witness Boulder 1. Terrors Creek
V11 - 13 Witness the Brittleness (Possible Regrade Project) BoulderProject 1. Terrors Creek
V12/13 The Mono Proj Boulder 1. Terrors Creek
? Left Project BoulderProject 1. Terrors Creek
Project BoulderProject 1. Terrors Creek
Right Project BoulderProject 1. Terrors Creek
The Spice Rack Proj BoulderProject 1. Terrors Creek
Troglodyte Roof BoulderProject 1.1. Lower Tier
Troglodyte Roof Left Project Boulder 1.1. Lower Tier
Troglodyte Roof Right Project BoulderProject 1.1. Lower Tier
Deutsch English Español Français Italiano 한국어 Português 中文