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Old Keperra Quarry 🚫

  • Grade context: AU
  • Photos: 1

Climbing in this area is closed.

9

Summary

Documented for historical purposes. This crag is on private land and is CLOSED. DO NOT attempt to climb here.

Description

The following description has been transcribed from a photocopy of a photocopy of a guidelet that was circulating around the late 90s to early 2000s. The source of this guidelet is unknown, but appears to be a small part (pages 29, 31-33) of a larger guidelet. Pages 30 & 32 appear to be missing, but may have contained the photos referred to in the guidelet. Transcription as follows:

"The Keperra Cliff is on the southern side of Samford Road, about 0.7 km east of the intersection with Settlement Road. Access is via a dirt track off Samford Road.

The cliff rises out of a large pool of water occupying an old quarry floor. It consists of two sections, a steep slab which contains most of the climbs, and a broken area to the right. The maximum height is about 28 meters.

The rock is pink adamellite of the Middle Triassic Enoggera Granite, made up of large feldspar crystals in a light brown fine-grained groundmass. It displays typical granitic weathering characteristics, forming large, smoothly rounded outcrops with roughened surfaces giving excellent friction.

The outstanding climbs are the three to the right of the central crack (Granita, Crimson Dynamo (Photos 7, 8), and Aldeberon). On the first two the main interest is in getting above the ripple, and all three provide excellent friction climbing.

The climbing techniques on the slab involve skilful use of small undulations as footholds or mantle-shelfs. Balance rather than strength is the key.

The Climbs

The climbs are described in order, left to right facing the cliff. All routes are as close as possible straight up the slab in parallel lines from their starting points. Diagonal traverses across the face are possible but almost all the holds are contained in the vertical routes. Above half height the rock deteriorates and all routes become easier."

Access issues

NO ACCESS. This crag is on private land (Keperra Sanctuary retirement village). DO NOT climb here.

Approach

All previous approach points have now been cut off due to the surrounding land being developed for private housing. Any attempt to access the cliff would involve trespass.

Ethic

Don't climb here.

History

History timeline chart

In the 80s and 90s, local children used the abandoned quarry as a swimming hole, and would jump off the surrounding cliffs into the murky water. Rumours abounded that no one had ever been able to reach the seemingly bottomless depths. Children told chilling tales of a car wreck on the bottom that supposedly contained a human skeleton.

Not known as a climbing venue of choice, this crag saw little climbing over the years. Some climbers local to the area would use it as an introductory crag for novices, or to teach abseiling skills.

Eventually, the Keperra Sanctuary retirement village was constructed and the waterhole was fenced off. The cliffs could still be accessed for a few years by rapping in from the top, but eventually climbers were confronted by the retirement village security guard, who, while intrigued by the climbing activities, nonetheless laid down the law that this is private land and no further access for climbing would be allowed.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route
Closed

Straight up through the overhang, keeping just right of the edge.

Closed

Straight up through the overhang being careful not to veer left or right onto S or F. This is probably a route done by Caffyn and Cais but never named.

Closed

Straight up. Above half way keep on the boundary between the light and dark rock.

Closed

Marked as "W". Up along the obvious natural line of weakness.

Closed

Up wall keeping right of Original Route, being careful not to use any of its handholds.

Closed

Straight up and over the ripple (crux) (Photo 7). Direct to top (Photo 8).

FA:

Closed

Keep left of the corner all the way. Crux is half way up.

Closed

Begin below overhang. Up bolts to overhang. Peg right and up. Some good moves under the roof.

Closed

Obvious corner right of overhang. Up corner and then slab.

Activity

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