Routes in Brisbane for selected grade

Up the blank face, right hand on the arete

Jump on if you wanna get sliced

Start as for Blue Scorpion then traverse left

Up the left trending edge

Up the outside arete

Up crack and around roof

Sit start on crack and straight up. There are some nice crimps and good hold.

Short scramble up a slightly grubby crack.

Left up the diagonal blunt rail

Sit start under roof then slap and up. Many many ways to do it.

Sit start with left hand on sidepull and right hand on rail 1 mtr to the right of small roof. Use jugs to go straight up the groove.

Start under the boulder below the cracks; matching both hands on the huge lower jug. Small dyno to next crack of your choice and then head on up.

Crux is dyno to main crack.

Sit start Rh good side pull, Lh low pinch. Make big move to the lip and mantle.

Start at the leftmost corner of the boulder (above the water) then traverse right, all the way around the boulder. Top out as far to the right as you can. Lap back around for a v1. Good warm up.

Cement corner R of 'Ummaguma's Layback'.

Start: In front of Light Box 9, about 2m left of Smooth Sailing. Challenging start, up steep rock to first bolt on broken rocky face, aim for drill hole on right to next bolt, straight up the inside corner to a 3rd RB, up the face to 4th RB, and bit of a run-out over easier ground to chains directly above. (Chains in the left corner are Dynamite's chains.)

Start: Just left of Light Box #9, about 1m left of In The Middle Of A Dream. A daunting start up the blank slab to first RB, continue up the thin slab to a 2nd RB, over this to inside corner & 3rd RB on the black wall, bridge up the corner to a 4th RB, then easier territory to chains directly above in corner.

Start: At the initials "TPM", four metres left of the big arete. Up the short crack left of the arete then continue up ledges to top.

Footnote: It is still possible to climb this, as it lies just outside of the Riverlife property.

Start 1m L of 'Earth to Stella'.

Probably not an ironic name. Climb up face to crack at L side of the 'ETS' pillar. Follow crack as it widens and tends R to finish at top of pillar. Shares the 'ETS' DBB.

Eddie Irvine's first lead... hung himself by his gear sling when his foot slipped placing a nut in the layback! LOL

Start at crack 3m L of 'Gynaecology'.

Follow manky crack to top.

Start up short crack as for 'Juice'.

From ledge above crack follow line of FHs L and up. At 4th FH, step R and mantle into base of cuboidal chimney. Continue up this past final FH. The DBB has been stolen (bastards!) so either top out or traverse awkwardly R to the 'Juice' DBB.

5 bolts above an optional gear placement. Start at Nightfell ("N"), climb up to the ledge at 2m, place a cam (#1 BD or medium tricam) in the slot out left, just above the lip. Big layback & step-up to bolt, over bulge to ledge below scooped wall & next bolt. Then up left of the scoop & straight up, passing another 3 bolts to anchors.

Start 2m L of 'Kiwi'. Marked "H".

Brilliant moves all the way to the top. Best grade 16 at the cliff. First bolt is a little high but the moves up to it are solid. 5 FHs to DBB.

Obsolete but included for historical/confusion reasons. Disappeared after a fig tree grew nearby. 'Tiger Stripe' covers this part of the wall.

Start at "TS" mark.

Trend L past 3 FHs then back R again past 4th FH to join 'Tiger's Tail' for final FH & shared DBB.

Start 2m R of 'Slippery When Wet', 4m R of 'Tiger's Eye'.

Good climbing but beware the run out to the 2nd bolt = ground fall territory from the 2nd bolt. 4 RBs to DBB or clip the carrot and top out for full value. Rebolted in 2020 with RBs & equipped with lower-offs.

Start 2m right of Crap. Marked "R" .

3 RBs to DBB. High first bolt! Can be climbed by clipping the first two bolts of Crap.

(Rebolted July 2020, QCRC)

Start 2m R of 'Razor'. Marked "UN".

Follow line of 3RBs then a FH to DBB.

Start 2m R of 'Untouched'. Marked "DS".

Up past 2 BRs to overhang. Reach out and clip fixed carabiner on lip of overhang. Mantle then up easily past another BR and top out. Beware getting to first bolt!

Start 2m R of 'Dirty Situations'. Marked "I".

Way too runout as a sport route so take trad gear. For example, potential big groundfall before 3rd bolt = can be protected with a small cam such as a C3. 4 RBs and DBB.

Technical & balancy climbing to 1st RB, crux move over the lip to 2nd RB, up the thin, balancy face to 3rd RB, more thin moves on slab above to 4th RB, then easier ground to chains.

Very slippery rock.

Start at "BS" mark.

Nice easy sport lead. 4 RBs & DBB.

Start 1.5m R of 'Bottle Stopper'. Marked "SR".

Trad route with some BRs. Probably harder than grade suggests.

Start at "SRO" mark.

Hard start to 1st bolt then continues much more easily. 5 RBS to DBB.

Start 2m R of 'Standing Room Only'.

Follow L-trending line of 5 RBs, finishing at 'SRO' DBB.

Start 4m R of 'Standing Room Only'. Marked "SF".

Follows the obvious finger crack to top. One of the best trad routes at 'KP'.

Start 1m L of 'Cornflake Crack'. Marked "DM".

Named after a climber killed on Crookneck. Climb up slinging drill hole, then follow line of 3 RBs to DBB. Originally led as a trad route but has been retrobolted.

Before anyone else objects to the name as being "derogatory" or "demeaning" to "old" people (is that not demeaning or at least patronising in itself?) let me point out that I AM a Septuagenarian and that the name accurately reflects the effort I had to put into making the first ascent - an effort that most Septuagenarians and almost-Septuagenarians - if they are still climbing - will readily acknowledge and agree with.

Start midway between Smog and The Hyena's Heinie. Climb up through the slightly overhung V in the rock with first and second bolt to your left (the main crux). Continue upward following the line of bolts (obviously!) and stepping occasionally to the left as you go. Rock quality and hand holds are generally surprisingly good, but it might take a bit of searching to find them - on your first climb at least.   Advisable to use long quickdraws or short slings on at least two of the bolts to minimise rope drag. Twin bolts with rings at anchor, or top out.

Bolted on Wednesday 24th June 2020; bolts tested and FFA on Friday 26th June 2020.

Start 3m R of 'The Lemur's Femur' (which is faintly marked "SI").

Up past 5 RBs to ledge, then L to DBB.

Start 1m R of 'Dinosaur'. Marked "RAM".

Up arete to overhang then escape R and top out.

Start just L of the waterfall. Marked "TA".

Manky trad crack.

Start at first line of bolts R of waterfall, 5m L of 'Junket'.

Nice crux start then follow line of 5 RBs just L of the tree to DBB. Relatively shady which is great on hot afternoons but then it does take a while to dry out after rain.

The 2013 SE Queensland guidebook lists this climb as 'Frontier Psychiatry'.

Start 5m L of 'Idiot Wind'. Marked "TR".

Follow the line of 5 RBs to the anchors. A more direct finish was added when it was retrobolted, increasing the grade from 14 to 16.

Start on blank wall 1m R of 'Anonymous'.

Retrobolted version of the original 'Anonymous' with a more direct start. Balancy climbing up wall past 2 RBs. Then on up corners and ledges finishing either up corner on R or straight up thin moves on face for more of a challenge. 6 RBs and DBB.

Start to the left of BO and follow the Arete up.

You can access the BO anchors for top rope by climbing down from the top of 'Anonymous'.

Start 2m L of 'Stoat Clips Bolts'. Marked "BO".

Start as for 'Adam's Rib'.

From the large ledge two-thirds of the way up, climb up the corner instead of the arete.

Start 2m L of 'Bird Dance For Shiva'.

Up the ledges, traverse R and finish up the slab clipping the BR. Much harder than its official grade of 15.

Start behind jacaranda tree about 15m L of 'Arete', and 2m right of Offal. Marked "MD".

Climbs better than it looks. Up twin choss cracks clipping bolts to the left. Head left at the ledge, and up balancy wall to chossy, crux rooflet. Breach the rooflet to the left, clip the last bolt on 'Offal' and finish at chains shared with 'Offal'.

FA Unknown, original line unknown

Start 1m L of 'Spidermonkey'.

Up onto the ledge and clip the RB. Climb the nice finger crack to the start of the slab at halfway. Up the slab clipping 2 RBs and finish at the DBB.

Start on the short but surprisingly nice face buried in the jungle about 10m R of 'Piles'. Marked "SW".

Climb past 2 BRs and top out. Railings at the top provide easy anchors to rap or belay from, though it's pretty vegetated at the top too.

As for 'Short Wall' but climb down and R from the last BR, then up the small chossy corner to top out.

Dwarf special?...

Mantle the banned area from a sit start?

A bit left of 'Gangbang Wall' is a climb marked "Ex". From a sit start heel hook the big jug and rock on up and over.

Sit start 2m right of 'By Ignorance' below 1m high ledge. Chinup, smear and heel hook to stand on top of ledge.

Up the 'Plunging for Mudbunnies' drillhole using only the L side.

Up the 'Plunging for Mudbunnies' drillhole using only the R side.

Boulder start 'Anonymous Arete'.

Very contrived. Start in the corner between Baby Steps and Breakout, using only palming and gastons, make your way to the top of the groove and finish matched on the jug.

Start at Spider Monkey and work your way left along the base of the cliff until you reach Bufo Marinus. It is easy to tell once you've reached this point as the climbing becomes significantly thinner.

Start just right of Bufo Marinus slab and traverse right until you reach Spidermonkey.

R8, L9, R13, M13, R14, M14, L15.

L1, R2, L3, R4, R5, M6.

Up the North side. Don’t touch the tree.

Up the North side.

Up the North side.

Up the North side.

Up the North side.

Up the North side.

Up the North side.

Up the South side.

Up the South side.

Up the South side.

Up the South side.

Pop up to knob, left on the wall

Climb the left arête of the boulder from a stand start.

Start on the jug in the middle of the face, but instead of doing the dyno straight up, move right and up over block at the base.

Grab a couple jugs! Cool dyno problem. Can also be done with an intermediate.