Routes in Brisbane

Start at big "PT" mark.

Nice climbing up past 5 RBs then run it out a bit up easy slab to anchors. There's a ground anchor at the base for lead rope soloing.

Crux undercling came off winter 2015. The change is pretty minimal but it's probably a bit harder now.

Start at the "IW' mark.

Quality climbing. The testpiece of its grade at 'Kangaroo Point'. 5 RBs and anchors. There's a ground anchor just R of the base for lead rope soloing.

Be aware of the possibility of a nasty ledgefall between 4th and 5th bolts.

This route map shows it dodging around the small roof. I lead it direct, doing the nice balancey move as a part of the * experience, and I think others probably did too. (Michael Woodrow)

Start at "D" mark.

Up past 3 RBs then steeper moves R past 4th RB. Trend gently L onto slab and up past a RB and a FH to anchor shared with 'Nic Chips Diffs'.

Start 2m L of 'Kiwi'. Marked "H".

Brilliant moves all the way to the top. Best grade 16 at the cliff. First bolt is a little high but the moves up to it are solid. 5 FHs to DBB.

Start 2m L of 'Tombstone Row'. Marked "B".

A fun, well-protected KP sport route. 5 RBs to DBB.

Start 5m L of 'Idiot Wind'. Marked "TR".

Follow the line of 5 RBs to the anchors. A more direct finish was added when it was retrobolted, increasing the grade from 14 to 16.

Start 3m L of 'Cucumber Castle'. Marked "WF".

A 'KP' classic! Straight up line of 5 RBs to anchors. First RB is high but a bit easier to get to than the first on 'Cucumber Castle'.

Start at the "PB" mark.

Ledges and crap rock in parts but still has some nice moves on it. Well protected. 5 RBs and lower-offs.

First ascent was done in drizzling rain with a visiting American climber that washed into Mountain Designs when Mick was working there.

Start 2m L of 'PITG'. Marked "SCB".

Follow the zigzag line of 6 RBs to lower-offs. There's a 7th RB above the anchor if you want to continue up the last section and top out instead.

Ensure that you and your belayer have good communication skills if leading this climb as the belayer can not see the climber when they reach the anchors because of the slab, you have to go halfway across the road to be able to see your climber at the anchors.

Start 1m L of 'Anonymous' on right blank face of large ledge beneath high first FH.

Fantastic. Boulder start to ledge then up daunting wall on holds that just happen to be right where they're needed. 6 FHs then slightly L to anchors shared with 'XXXX'.

The route got its name when the pockets on the steep wall were created by chipping away the rock before the first ascent. Originally named Chip a Holloway after Darryn Holloway who chipped the pockets.

Described in the guidebook as a tough 22 10 years ago... this was before the crux hold broke off.

Start 2m L of 'BARFJ'. Marked "CC".

Classic climb but potential for big falls so make sure you're solid at the grade if leading. Hard start to small ledge and high FH. Follow obvious line past 2nd & 3rd FHs. Above 3rd FH place cam in crack or run it out to 4th FH. Finish at DBB.

Start 2m L of 'Adam's Rib', 1m R of 'Gobble'.

Nice. Climb up clipping 2 RBs, then 2 FHs, then 1 more RB, then the anchor shared with 'Gobble'. Crux is mantling the bulge at the 3rd bolt.

Start at the "DA" mark.

Great beginner lead. Up arete following 4 RBs to DBB.

Start 2m L of 'Vegemite'.

Good climb with sustained moves up nice rock. 6 RBs & DBB. There's a ground anchor just L of the base for lead rope soloing.

Start at the "MOBS" mark, 2m R of 'FOBS'.

Bouldery start and a little bit run out. Potential for ledgy falls so make sure you're solid if leading. Make sure to tend L after 4th bolt. 4 FHs plus an optional BR to protect the awkward reach back to clip the DBB.

Start 5m R of 'MOBS'.

A popular beginner lead that gets harder as you go up. 4 RBs and DBB.

Start at "SRO" mark.

Hard start to 1st bolt then continues much more easily. 5 RBS to DBB.

Start 2m R of 'Gangbang Wall', 2m L of 'XXXX'. Marked "BB".

Boulder start to RB then up nice seam past 4 more RBs to anchors. Hard finish.

Very cruxy.

Start at "BS" mark.

Nice easy sport lead. 4 RBs & DBB.

Start on blank wall 1m R of 'Anonymous'.

Retrobolted version of the original 'Anonymous' with a more direct start. Balancy climbing up wall past 2 RBs. Then on up corners and ledges finishing either up corner on R or straight up thin moves on face for more of a challenge. 6 RBs and DBB.

Start 1.5m L of 'Date Anatomy'.

Climb past 5 RBs then mantle awkwardly onto ledge and finish at DBB shared with 'Date Anatomy'.

Start 2m L of 'Bouncy Castle'.

Up past 2 FHs to break. Overcome loose section past FH to drillhole overhang and final FH. Interesting crux pulling over this to slab and rap station.

Start 3m R of 'Gigolo'.

Decent beginner climb, safely bolted. 4 RBs to chains.

Start 2m L of usual 'Pterodactyl' start. Marked "PTD".

Up arete and cracked corner to very high RB, then join 'Pterodactyl' at its 3rd RB.

Start 3m L of 'Adam's Rib'. Marked "G".

Justifiably popular. Follow the line of 5 RBs to the anchor shared with 'The Bolting Gestapo'.

Start as for 'Dysentery'[12213427], marked "D".

At the 4th RB on 'Dysentery'[12213427] veer R then up over roof, clipping 2 further RBs. Up slab above to DBB.

Start 3m R of 'The Lemur's Femur' (which is faintly marked "SI").

Up past 5 RBs to ledge, then L to DBB.

Start at the "K" mark.

Nice moves through a thin crux sequence. First bolt is very high (hence the "R" rating). 5 FHs & DBB. There's a ground anchor at the base for lead rope soloing.

Start 4m L of 'Pterodactyl'. Marked "PITG".

Follow the line of 5 RBs to the anchors.

Start 2m R of 'Vegemite' below the nice looking overhang.

Excellent sustained climbing with a great crux sequence through the overhang. 5 RBs then 2 FHs and DBB. There's a ground anchor at the base for lead rope soloing.

Start at the faint "SI" mark.

Up past 6 RBs to DBB. Was known as "SI" before being bolted.

Start at "TS" mark.

Trend L past 3 FHs then back R again past 4th FH to join 'Tiger's Tail' for final FH & shared DBB.

Start at first line of bolts R of waterfall, 5m L of 'Junket'.

Nice crux start then follow line of 5 RBs just L of the tree to DBB. Relatively shady which is great on hot afternoons but then it does take a while to dry out after rain.

The 2013 SE Queensland guidebook lists this climb as 'Frontier Psychiatry'.

Start behind jacaranda tree about 15m L of 'Arete', and 2m right of Offal. Marked "MD".

Climbs better than it looks. Up twin choss cracks clipping bolts to the left. Head left at the ledge, and up balancy wall to chossy, crux rooflet. Breach the rooflet to the left, clip the last bolt on 'Offal' and finish at chains shared with 'Offal'.

FA Unknown, original line unknown

Start at arete 1m R of 'Crimes and Misdemeanours'.

Fine and balancy slab climbing that tests the head as much as the feet. A great climb at the grade, but with some potential for ledgy falls so make sure you're solid. 5 RBs & DBB.

Start 2m R of 'Tiger Stripe'.

Straight up past 5 FHs to DBB. Last FH & DBB shared with 'Tiger Stripe'.

Start 3m R of 'Dysentery'.

Effectively bolts the way 'Bridal Party' was top roped for a few decades. Up easy slab to ledge and RB. Nice moves up steep face past 2nd RB to jug and 3rd RB. Mantle onto ledge and continue more easily past 2 RBs to DBB.

Start at the "A" mark just below the drill hole.

First bolt is very high. Slinging the drill hole offers some protection but still take care not to fall while clipping. 4 RBs & DBB.

Chossy corner 1 m R of 'Moonlight Dilemma'. 4 RBs, anchors shared with 'Hanging Garden'.

Start at the "FOBS" mark.

Hard overhung start then more easily up past 6 RBs to DBB.

Start midway between 'Slime Fresh' & 'David Mac'.

Follow line of 5 RBs to DBB.

Start 2m R of 'Wind in the Willows'. Marked "C".

Decent beginner lead, well-protected by 5 RBs to chains.

(Rebolted May 2020)

Start on the slab 5m L of 'Arete'.

Follow the line of 8 RBs to the DBB. An excellent beginner sport lead with easy but fun climbing and plenty of bolts to get those clips dialled.

Climbs the blank face and arete 1 m R of 'Hanging Garden'. 3 RBs and anchors. Makes it easier if you can find the secret hold at the crux.

Start 1m R of 'Play School', 1m L of 'Moonlight Dilemma'.

Retrobolted so now a nice easy beginner lead. 5 RBs to DBB.

Start 2m L of 'Pommy Bastard'.

Follow the line of 4 RBs to DBB. The crux is a difficult onsight but much easier on repeat.

Start behind jacaranda tree, 3m L of 'Moonlight Dilemma'. Marked "COD" (for 'Cloak Of Darkness').

Up ramp to high FH. Move on past 2 more FHs and run it out a little up to DBB shared with 'Mantlit'.

Start behind jacaranda tree, 2m L of 'Play School'.

Great beginner lead. Up series of ledges past 4 RBs to DBB shared with 'Play School'.

Start at the first obvious cliff face at the rightmost (southern or Southbank) end of the main cliffs, behind the "Danger" sign. Marked "P".

Balancy and intense slab climbing. Climb R then L up vertical face past 2 RBs. Crimpy moves past 3rd RB lead to a jug and the halfway ledge. From ledge follow 3 RBs up thin slab to top. Large rings up over the lip provide anchors to rap or belay from. 6 RBs.

Start 2m R of 'Exhilarant'. Marked "GBW".

Steep cranking on quality sequence (of dubious origin). Up thin slab to L clipping 2 FHs shared with 'Hanger Wall Arete' to 3rd FH at horizontal seam. Head slightly R then straight up headwall past 2 further FHs. Finish up easy slab clipping BRs on 'Hanger Wall' if desired to DBB shared with 'HWA' and 'HW'[12212749].

Start at drillhole 2m L of 'Tuesday Afternoon Walk'.

Hard boulder start up drillhole then straight up past 3 FHs to below overhang. Awkward reach out to 4th FH and lip of overhang. Mantle onto ledge with DBB.

Start 1m R of 'BARFJ'. Marked "MF".

One of the few good natural lines at 'KP'. It is a shame that the upper layback crack was halved when the council decided to renovate in the mid 1990s by dynamiting it off! Neil Monteith added the new bolted finish when the dust settled.

Up pockets to small roof, then up layback crack on L to halfway ledge. Straight up past RB to crack. Either top out or use BARFJ anchors just L.

Start 2m L of 'Bombadil'.

First top roped as 'Kasper' in the '70s at grade 16, the passing decades and a passing Bosch have seen it evolve into a grade 21 sport route. 6 RBs, chains.

A DBB at the 4th bolt allows it to be climbed in 2 (admittedly very short) pitches, great for practicing multipitch skills in a safe environment.

Start 2m R of 'Dirty Situations'. Marked "I".

Way too runout as a sport route so take trad gear. For example, potential big groundfall before 3rd bolt = can be protected with a small cam such as a C3. 4 RBs and DBB.

Technical & balancy climbing to 1st RB, crux move over the lip to 2nd RB, up the thin, balancy face to 3rd RB, more thin moves on slab above to 4th RB, then easier ground to chains.

Very slippery rock.

Start 1m L of 'Diagonal'. Marked "SH".

Now retrobolted as an easy beginner's lead. First bolt is easy to reach but high and move near the top is hard for the grade so more a lead for competent climbers learning to lead rather than outright beginners. 3 RBs to DBB.

Start 1m L of 'Cornflake Crack'. Marked "DM".

Named after a climber killed on Crookneck. Climb up slinging drill hole, then follow line of 3 RBs to DBB. Originally led as a trad route but has been retrobolted.

Start 2m L of 'The Lemur's Femur' (which is faintly marked "SI").

Up past 5 RBs to DBB. Was known as "MB" before being bolted.

Start on arete 1m R of 'Exhilarant', 1m L of 'Gangbang Wall'.

Steep and balancy climbing, 'HWA' takes balance and commitment, while 'GBW' takes crimp strength and brawn. This route is great for climbers who lack the strength to crank through its neighbour, also fun for sandbagging musclebound tough-guys who have no technique.

Up arete clipping 1st 3 FHs shared with 'GBW'. Continue up arete above horizontal seam past further 3 FHs. Finish up easy slab to DBB shared with 'GBW' and 'Hanger Wall', optionally clipping 1 or 2 of the 'HW'[12212749] BRs.

Start 2m L of 'Halva'. Faintly marked "SOS".

Nondescript bottom section with fun, airy finish. 5 RBs to DBB.

Start 2m R of 'Slippery When Wet', 4m R of 'Tiger's Eye'.

Good climbing but beware the run out to the 2nd bolt = ground fall territory from the 2nd bolt. 4 RBs to DBB or clip the carrot and top out for full value. Rebolted in 2020 with RBs & equipped with lower-offs.

Start at the "WK" mark.

Up past 4 BRs then natural pro in second half. DBB. Remember your boltplates.

Start 1m L of 'Wages Of Fear'. Marked "HBu".

Up crap rock at start to high RB. Run it out to 2nd RB, then up slab past 2 further RBs to anchor. Crap start, nice middle and finish. Quite runout using just bolts but has good placements for wires.

Start just L of 'Another Girl Another Planet'. Marked "MI".

Straight up cracked corner past deep hole in rock to top. Run out on lead. Soloed on first free ascent.

Start 1m R of 'Chip-A-Holdaway'. Marked "A".

The original trad route. Up obvious corner (gear on left), then on up ledges to corner finish. Average protection at the start, can now be supplemented with the RBs on 'Anonymous DS' making it a good beginner trad lead.

Sit-Start to the left of the cave entrance and follow the obvious holds along the lip. Finish as for Too Soft. Beta- https://youtu.be/AhPA2D2BDb4

Start at large "BARFJ" mark.

Very sustained. Up smooth face to high RB. Continue past further 4 RBs and slightly R to anchor.

Start 2 m R of 'Spooge In A Glove'. Climbs the L trending ramp to anchors (shared with 'Spooge In A Glove'). 3 RBs.

Start at the arete 2m R of the 'Love Hurts' corner. Marked "NUT", although the actual start is about 1m R of the mark.

Nice climbing with a fun crux between the 3rd & 4th bolts which is tricky for the grade. 6 (well-camouflaged) RBs & DBB. Was originally led with just two bolts and trad. Retro-bolted with permission.

Start 2m R of 'Standing Room Only'.

Follow L-trending line of 5 RBs, finishing at 'SRO' DBB.

Start as for 'Dysentery'.

A slight variant to "Dysentery" which makes it a bit harder and more runout. After the 3rd RB head straight up the steeper, overhanging part of the headwall, skipping the usual 4th RB, then rejoin the original line at its 5th RB. Best done on top rope.

Start 2m R of 'Tiger's Tail'. Marked "TE".

Straight up past 2 RBs (1st one is high) to drill hole & crux, up onto the slab & final RB, then up to chains. NB: the drill hole has a crack running through it. I would advise a small cam, or tricam, placed sideways, or better, a ballnut in the crack on the slab. Rebolted in 2020 with RBs & a lower-off.

Start 2m L of the usual 'The Hyena's Heinie' start.

An alternate start to 'The Hyena's Heinie' which makes it very slightly harder. Up steep blocky arete past 2 RBs before joining the usual line at its 3rd bolt.

Start at the base of the deep crack.

Follow the right-tending crack until it runs out then head straight to the top. Minimal protection, especially higher up.

Start 2m L of 'Stoat Clips Bolts'. Marked "BO".

Start on jug at bottom left of cave, traverse right then up on thin face holds, before powerful move to gain big finishing jug.

Start 4m R of 'Standing Room Only'. Marked "SF".

Follows the obvious finger crack to top. One of the best trad routes at 'KP'.

Start 2m L of 'Mantlit'.

Mini sport lead, perfect for first time leaders. 3 RBs & DBB.

Start 2m Left of 'Pass the Bosch' or 1m Right of the Nightfell scoop.

Originally climbed on top rope in the 60s, 'Mank Mistress' was anonymously retrobolted into a seemingly well protected sport route in about 2010. However careful inspection in 2014 (triggered by the anonymous bolting of 'Breakfast At Tiffanys') revealed substandard bolting and the bolts were removed. Rebolted in March 2019.

Start below the bolt about 3.5m up, just Right of the big concave wall (Nightfell). Straight up past this to 2nd bolt, up to ledge & 3rd bolt on short wall on Left. Up to the big ledge & clip 4th bolt at head height, straight up the block to 5th bolt (crux), then easy climbing to chains.

Start 1m R of 'Lost in Space'. Marked "PMT".

Very high 1st bolt. 5 RBs and DBB. The section up to the first bolt can be protected with a tricam in the pocket, and a small cam in the slot as you pull over the bulge.

Stand-start using the right leaning crack, head straight-up to finish with a big move to the hold under the roof. One of the classic problems of the area.

Start at corner 3m R of 'Surrender', just L of "NUT" mark (it's often confused with 'Nut').

Up corner past 3 RBs then layback the crux to attain ledge. More challenging moves past 2 RBs to finish at DBB.

Start 2m L of 'Standing Room Only'.

Up past 5 RBs to ledge at 2/3 height. Finish up 'SRO', clipping its last RB before reaching shared DBB. Crux is getting over bulge at 5th bolt - tricky, somewhat confusing and likely harder than grade suggests.

Start straight up wall L of usual 'Idiot Wind'. Consider using some trad gear. Rejoins the original at its 2nd bolt.

The original line. Sit start on jugs in the middle of the wall. Head straight up and mantle out. Classic

Start at short crack 3m L of 'Wounded Knee'.

Bouldery moves up crack (somewhat) protected by RB 1m to L. Straight up slabby corner past RB then very long runout up R-tending steps to ledge below corner. Fun moves up corner past 2 RBs to DBB shared with 'After the Gold Rush'. Just barely qualifies as sport - could do with a rebolt.

Rebolted in 2015 by Safer Cliffs Queensland.

Start 2m R of 'Postmodernist Blues'. Marked "LPW".

Rebolted in 2019

Follow the L tending line of 5 RBs up nice wall and thin slab. Push through the great crux sequence, placing a #2 wire, and top out.

Start on the right, traverse across on good rails and head halfway across the lip via a cool pocket above the largest part of the lip.

Start at obvious crack 3m R of 'Ring Around the Moon', marked SKEG (for some reason). Very good protection

Up intermittent crack to overhang. Over this (crux) and top out to R.

Start 3m L of 'Pterodactyl'. Marked "E".

Up past 4 BRs then left to the 'Punks in the Gin' anchor. Quite run out, and the carrots always feel one move further away than you wished they were.

Start route directly under the one and only bolt on very small crimps. Extremely thin crimping up blank face. Finishes on small ledge with DBB.

Start 2m L of 'FOBS'.

6 RBs. Shares final RB & DBB with 'FOBS'.

Start up short crack as for 'Juice'.

From ledge above crack follow line of FHs L and up. At 4th FH, step R and mantle into base of cuboidal chimney. Continue up this past final FH. The DBB has been stolen (bastards!) so either top out or traverse awkwardly R to the 'Juice' DBB.

Start 1m L of 'Dysentery'.

Climb easy wall to very high BR then up sharp arete to 2nd BR under triangular roof. Swing L to huge jug and FH. Then up steep face past BR to slab. Up slab past BR and FH to the DBB shared wth 'Dysentery'. The first 2 RBs on 'Dysentery' can be clipped to protect the start.

Start up big corner 2m L of 'Hanger Wall Arete'. Marked "Ex".

Up the corner then finish up slab. Upgraded from the original grade of 16 by consensus.

Sit start below “Jabba the promiscuous space slug” on the middle of the rail. Straight up, veering right to finish matched on “Gravel Pit” jug.

Start 1m L of 'Bottle Stopper'.

Up past 4 RBs to DBB.

Start 2m R of 'Tiger's Eye'.

Up to very high RB below overhang. Through overhang then past 3 RBs on wall above to DBB.

Start just R of 'Crap'. Marked "M".

Straight up using the bolts on 'Crap' but keeping to their R.

(Equipped with RBs May 2020)

Start below large blank slab.

Scramble onto ledge. Climb up slab then headwall following line of 5 RBs (with an optional nut to protect the moves to 1st bolt). Finish at DBB.

Originally led in the 90s, making use of a slightly enhanced hold. That hold was filled in in 2000, and lead successfully at grade 25.

Sit start at base of obvious flake, up flake trending left to top out.