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North Burleigh Bouldering

  • Grade context: AU
  • Photos: 27
  • Ascents: 888
  • Aka: Nobby Beach

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Summary

Sharp but solid and quality Quartz rock. Some problems can be heavily affected by sand build up. If it felt easy, the chances are it used to start much lower! take that into account, and have fun!

Description

This area was first developed in the 90's, and is a great spot right on the waters edge. There is many great steep problems, traverses, High balls, the lot. some landings can be sketchy and uneven so bring crash pads! Watch out for broken glass over lips and in cracks, make sure you check out your holds before you climb and clean out any glass.

Access issues

Check the low tide time and if possible, climb at these time as some climbs become inaccessible or wet.

Approach

Park on the southern end of Marine Parade in Miami, or alternatively, on the Esplanade on the southern side of the headland infront of Shark Bar.

Ethic

Take all your rubbish with you and dont go to the toilet near the boulders!

History

History timeline chart

Info on this area is hard to come by, but the earliest known climbing was done in the early 90's. All FA's listed here are to the best of our knowledge and will happily update the guide if things have already been done.

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South End area
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3m
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Routes

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Grade Route

The next wall is located on the south eastern part of the headland and is best accessed via the Esplanade carpark. Walk down to the waters edge close to the headland and go left when possible. The wall starts here. NOTE: All problems left of 'Walk the Plank' can only be climbed on low tide. Everything to the right can be climbed all the time. Varying sand levels at times, adjust starting position as required

Start 1m L of Poseidon, on the obvious 'shield'. Compression start, (crux) then straight up and top out.

FFA: Tom Reid, 2 Feb 2014

Start 2m L of The Jackdaw. Sit start in obvious crack feature on good holds. Follow crack line up and R to top out

FFA: Tom Reid, 19 Feb 2014

Start as for Poseidon, but traverse low and R straight away into The Jackdaw and finish up this. Really good climbing, currently the 'Crag Classic'.

FFA: Tom Reid, 19 Feb 2014

Start 1m L of Gone Fishing . Sit start on big undercling and R sidepull move up and R to a gaston, then up and L to jug, then up to top out.

FFA: Jarryd Blackmore, 19 Feb 2014

Start 2m L of Walk the plank. Sit start with a good L hand jamb/side pull. Up and R, then straight up on jugs. Top out.

FFA: Jarryd Blackmore, 19 Feb 2014

Start 1.5m R of Shipwrecked. Sit start on low jug, move up trending slightly L, then back R and up. top out.

FFA: Jarryd Blackmore, 13 Feb 2014

Start 3.5m L of HLS. Sit start really low on the jug in the void with a sandy bottom. move up to small holds, then traverse R and up following the weakness, then over grey bulge. Top out.

Set: Tom Reid, 12 Feb 2014

FFA: Tom Reid, 4 Mar 2014

Links Shipwrecked into HLS. Start as for Shipwrecked, but instead of finishing up the grey bulge, keep traversing R on slopers into HLS and finish up this.

Start 1.5m L of Red Emperor. Sit Start low on side pulls at the bottom of the obvious feature. move up, then R onto face, up to jugs and mantle to small ledge. Highball open project.

FFA: Tom Reid, 12 Feb 2014

Blank line Between Hookers lines and sphincter and Red Emperor. Stand start with R hand on undercling as for Red Emperor and Left in Slot-like pocket using lots of toe hooks to reach two finger pocket and dyno to mantle out. SDS yet to go, open project.

Tristen Meacham-Day

FA: Tristen Meacham-Day, 5 Jun 2015

Gold Coasts hardest open project boulder problem that exists so far. The sit start to “The Golden Hour”. Adds a number of extremely difficult long moves. The top out is v4- do it for the full tick.

On the RHS of obvious smooth red and orange panel. sit start low on underclings, move R out to rail, up to jugs and mantle. Highball top out open project.

FFA: Tom Reid, 12 Feb 2014

Start 3m R of Red Emperor. Sit start low on jug to the R, up to tricky rail, move left, then straight up and out on jugs. Highball top out open project.

FFA: Tom Reid, 12 Feb 2014

Start 1.5m R of Red Emperor. Sit start low on Jug, move up and L to sharp pocket, then straight up following the crackline with some interesting holds.

FFA: Tom Reid, 12 Feb 2014

left heel hook start on awesome jugs, heel hook all the way. follow the line. Top out at the very end of the flake.

FA: Matt Hutton, 1990

long traverse to the right

FA: Matt Hutton, 1990

Sit- Start on jug flake LH and RH with a heel cranked up. Rock on and ascend! Nice sandy landing.

FA: JSBC & Cynthia Cormier Coulombe, Sep 2019

Start on RH sharp under cling and LH three finger pocket, heel hook on lip and right foot under. Heel hook and slap along the lip and watch the dab!

Set: Will Lee, 2015

FA: Will Lee, 23 Sep 2015

Sit start, traverse left,

Set: Yulid Shorrock, 7 Aug 2015

FA: Yulid Shorrock, 7 Aug 2015

Crouch start on two jugs and make a very long move up into a blind pocket. Figure out a way to burl the top. A crag classic

Set: Yulid Shorrock, 10 Sep 2015

FA: Will Lee, 23 Sep 2015

Crouch start low and do a long move up into a small jug then straight up.

Set: Yulid Shorrock, 7 Aug 2015

FA: WSD, 24 Aug 2015

Crouch start the obvious jugs and traverse left. Climb the blunt arete.

Set: Yulid Shorrock, 7 Aug 2015

FA: WSD, 24 Aug 2015

left heel hook start,look at photo and follow the line!

Set: Yulid Shorrock, 7 Aug 2015

FA: Yulid Shorrock, 7 Aug 2015

Sit start on small crimps then work left onto the large crack.

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North End area
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This is the main wall on the eastern part of the headland. access is quicker from Marine Parade. Keeping close to the headland, scramble over some boulders and follow a vague track over, around and down till you find this wall.

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Traverse from Left side to highest point on the Right. Start sit started on a shelf. Probably the best problem here.

FA: JSBC, Jan 2020

Far left problem. Start on two flat shelve jugs sit started. Up to a funky pocket jug and ascend.

FA: JSBC, Jan 2020

Second line from the left. Sit start on very cool telephone jug. Long move RH to side pull (in the crack) and straight up for jugs. Brush the top on inspection first. Walk off descent.

FA: JSBC, Jan 2020

Middle problem - Left of PAQ. This one has a little more thinking involved. Start sit-started and power up. The crack on the Left is out.

FA: JSBC, Jan 2020

Tallest line on the boulder, 2nd from the right. Start at the bottom of a little pit at the base of a left trending crack. Start as low as possible on jugs and figure out a way to drop knee and not wreck your knee caps on a long move to a good edge in the midway break. Keep focused for the mantle.

Set: JSBC, Jan 2020

Far Right (Starboard) problem. Start on the boulder with both hands matched on the horizontal break. A long move up then jugs. Inspect the top for Glass first

FA: JSBC, Jan 2020

The lonely Big rock on the beach 5 meters from the little cave. Heel hook all the way mental finish.

Set: 10 Mar 2016

FFA: 10 Mar 2016

Start at the low LHS on good holds, and follow the weakness traversing diagonally right on strong sloped holds, find knee bar rest. Push through matching undercling into sharp quartz rock with long moves, keeping feet on soild rock, hug the last big blocks being cautious of the last one. rock over mantle. 8m boulder Video is on the net, v4 holds gets a v5 as conditions are rarely bomber this close to the coast. There are 3 alternate finishes all of them are quality and stay at v5.

FFA: Matt Hutton, 1990

Furtherest left route before choss. Sit start in a cross on good holds and move up positive holds above to a high top. Get down moving left.

FA: unknown

2nd last line. To the right of BYUOYA- starting on a grey bulge in a pocket.

FA: unknown

Previously established classic long traverse going left from the side pull left of Miami Slicer around bulge (Crux) and along easy jug line staying low for full value to corner - V2 for the round trip. Underclings only version an open project.

Set: Pete Stebbins, Mar 2019

Sit start at the far left of the lower ledge and work your way all the way right the the last obvious hold along the lower traverse. Great warm up boulder... easier for kids.

FA: Ava Williams, 7 Aug

Sit start from undercling then follow the three big holds up. SHARP jug up top.

FA: Matt Hutton, 1990

Start this gym like problem with a large bucket in the break and a RH undercling. Big move LH bring your feet up and driveby RH to slopper jug. Great fun

Hanging start, reach around bulge to slot and sloper, dyno to jug mantle over to left side pull. Up you go. Traverse left to get down.

FA: Matt Hutton, 1990

Start cross handed, move right, up, then diagonally left to sloper edge.

Link up. Start SIAS move left and slightly up- and then up into Placebo, finishing with its drive-by move. Traverse left to get down.

FA: JSBC, Sep 2019

Start on good hold at back of roof, work out to pocket, then crimps. Straight up to top, top out and traverse LEFTto descend

FA: Matt Hutton, 1990

Sit start as for Particle wave but punch up Suck It and See. Classic. Definitely traverse left to get down

FA: Cal, 2015

"Squeezed in" But done as its own line. Starts to the right of SIAS. Start in a sit start on a broken rail and blast up.

The last alternate finish, squeezed in but uses all her own holds. Exit out just above double under cling rail, cutting feet is always fun.

FA: Matt Hutton, 1990

Alt finish to particle wave, enter sharp quartz area. Throw out and left to black rail. Right side pull in quartz area assists mantle. Traverse right to get down

FA: Matt Hutton, 1990

The next three boulders are just some of the freestanding boulders on the north-eastern side of the headland. Many more problems can be found here with some searching and imagination.

Around the corner from Hodu, facing the ocean- sit start on the far left side of the salty slab on good holds. Move up and right traversing across the face. Finish up far right. Can be very slippery in high and in the sun humidity. Add a grade for No-Hands

FA: JSBC, Feb 2020

Sit start on jugs formed by the crack. Traverse right on tough holds into the start of the other project then top it out. Likely V5 to V7.

Set: Jack Mullaly, 6 Jan

Stand start (or sit if the sand is high). Left hand on sloper at lip. Right hand pinch. Now traverse right using slopes, pinches and crimps to top out at the high point. Likely grade V3 to V5.

Set: 6 Jan

Sit start straight up. Very sharp rock.

FA: WSD

Set: WSD, 17 Aug 2015

FFA: 17 Aug 2015

Sit start, traverse left follow the line. Top out on the highest point.

FFA: Leighton Smith

Set: Pedro & Yulid Shorrock, 17 Aug 2015

Sit start follow the crack, keep moving left, top out at the end of the crack.

Set: Yulid Shorrock, 17 Aug 2015

FA: Yulid Shorrock, 17 Aug 2015

So called because Mike told us this was Kadosh. It wasn't. Sit start hands matched on big jug. Bust straight out to mantle. There is also potentially good novelty value if you start reversed with hands on the same jug and feet out near the lip. Get the feet to the lip then turn and mantle. Much harder this way though.

Set: Michael Williams, 14 Nov

FA: Jack Mullaly, 14 Nov

Sit start low (requires erosion, refer to topo). Right hand sidepull/ pinch. Left hand on good crimp. Follow the bulge up and top out slightly right.

FA: 3 Jan

Start matched on good jug. Traverse left without using the lip or anything above it. Top out as for Mike's Mischief.

Set: 3 Jan

Start on the under-cling and shoot for the lip, mental in to it.

Set: WSD, 17 Aug 2015

FA: WSD, 17 Aug 2015

The bloc to the right of Ish. Start in a sit with high LH and low RH crimp. Straight up

FA: JSBC, 2020

Follow No fear and instead of topping out climb down, through cave and finish at Mayim. Mantle finish. Should be graded 24 with that many moves.

Set: Yulid Shorrock

FA: JSBC, 2020

Follow no fear on good 2 hand jug and link Toqeph and Mayim the two V5 in Reverse. (start on No Fear) ... long endurance needed for overhangs. Open project

Set: Yulid Shorrock, 24 Apr 2015

start on huge 2 hand jug, make your way along the outside of boulder. only using hold on the outside. make your way around the outside of the boulder staying low and top out on the high point.(don't use the hold on top until top out.same finish as Torah.

Set: Yulid Shorrock, 3 Jul 2015

FA: WSD, 25 Sep 2015

Start on no fear, passing trough don't fall and make your way to the crack running straight up. Tackle a fingery bulge to finish up

Set: Yulid Shorrock, 1 Jul 2015

FA: Yulid Shorrock, 7 Oct 2015

Sit start on two small jugs, then move up and slightly left through the roof to mount.

Sit-start on small red rock, strong pull on leads to crux throw over bulge then straight up. Keep the hips in.

FA: unknown, 1990

Start as No Fear finish at the start of YAHUSHUA

Set: Yulid Shorrock, 2015

Start just below direct and make your way to the left passing Torah finishing at YAHUSHUA

Sit start on the far left of the boulder. RH small undercling, LH on slopper jug or undercling right next to slopper jug. Figure out a way to blast out. Top out on the highest point.

FA: Pedro WSD, 26 Aug 2015

Set: Yulid Shorrock, 26 Aug 2015

Starts low on obvious jugs, traverses the lip, then rocks over to top out. Short and sweet but nothing special.

Start on MB on two good jugs then traverse right get heel on good jug right hand to sloper then bump to good crimp heel hook the sloppy edge left hand to good jug. Linked and finishes on Torah V2 problem. use only white crack, don't use the black jug. (that's Cheating)

Set: Will Lee, 23 Sep 2015

FA: Will Lee, 23 Sep 2015

Starts low on obvious jugs at the base of the break. Pretty nice.

Starts as for MB, but heads out right along shelf-like feature, before rocking up to huge jug and rejoining MB at it's top.

Warning Fixed Gear: Sand

start under roof, on 2 poor underclings, move out over lip and up face past 3 finger right hand pocket

FA: Jack Nicholls, 10 Aug 2015

Start from YAHUSHUA pass Hypodermic, MB pass through the cave, pass Torah make your way right and finish at Toqeph. It'so long if it was vertical it would have bolt. Bring your stamina with you.

Set: Yulid Shorrock, 3 Jul 2015

FA: Yulid Shorrock, 2 Apr 2016

Same boulder as Miami break on the left, Sit start heel hook,

Set: Yulid Shorrock, 10 Feb 2015

FFA: Yulid Shorrock, 10 Feb 2015

To the left of Salty arete. Start in a sit start on excellent holds and move straight up the nice weaknesses to a easy top out overlooking the the lovely ladies in bikinis.

The arete to the left of Sunset Boulevard. Start in a sit start on great holds and flow upwards. Stunning for sunsets!

The bloc to the left of hypodermic.Sit-Start with LH on low grip and high RH in Gaston. Trickery into the jug on the lip and start manteling to get out of the steep. Move straight up and slightly left continuing a tenuous mantle. It is to go without saying- the small rocks and boulders around the main solid wall- are NOT in.

FA: JSBC & but most likely was done before- so please come to me with details

The picturesque spot and must do. Same sit-Start as YCBAB with LH on low grip and high RH in Gaston. Trickery into the jug on the lip and get inventive blasting right. Squeeze and move straight up the razor crack to a difficult mantle. The large pedestal on the left is not in and neither is the bloc to the right.

Come to the markets, have a bit of fun. Starts opposite MB on the obvious holds and heel hook. Up the feature to slab finish.

Start right hand side pull, left hand on jug. Right hand up to jug, left hand goes to sloper. Left hand then goes to good pinch and then dyno left hand for the lip. Match and mantle over for top out. It's usually a sit start but depends on the sand levels. Fun little sequence

FA: Harley Dawes, 2 Jan 2021

Sit start on small crimps then move straight up and over the lip.

Start both hands on side pull then move up to crimps and mantle. Don't use arete.

Start towards the left of the boulder (can't remember if its a sit or stand, but it's probably stand). Traverse the face then top out as per Grasshoppers Rock.

Sit start below lower flake, move up to lower flake and follow. Move up to upper flake and top out on the far right with mantle. If possible, start at the lowest point of boulder as sand can affect the starting point. Located on the other side of Grasshopper's Rock and starts on the bottom of the two flakes that run up from left to right.

Set: Sammy Stevo, 24 Jan 2016

FA: Sammy Stevo, 24 Jan 2016

FA: JSBC

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