Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Cooktown Finch Bay North side | |||||
V2 | whale watcha
stand start on opposing side pulls, move through good edges to the top. FA: arlen breeze, 19 Aug 2020 | 3m | |||
Daintree & Mossman Mossman Bluff | |||||
21 AID:A1 | Schadenfreude
FFA: Alistair Byrom & Jon Pearson, 2000 | 180m, 8 | |||
Cairns Barron Gorge The Boulder Field | |||||
V2 | ★★ Barrel Rock
FA: Andrew Dawia | 2m | |||
V2 | ★★ Mentle Repetition
Sit start fully under boulder matched on good edge, move to lip and mantle, reach for roof above and mantle again. FA: Jared Tyerman, 26 May 2019 | 3m | |||
V2 | ★ Unnamed 1 | 2m | |||
V2 | ★★ Pop goes the greasel
Start standing with two good edges and high left foot and right heel. Work to right high crack/rail near plant and pop up over the lip. Stellar line as dyno from right of start but the start hold popped (has one remaining but is more difficult). FA: Jared Tyerman, 26 May 2019 | 3m | |||
V2/3 | ★ Crack Den
Sit start with low big edge and move up through crack feature. FA: Cameron Wycherley, Oct 2017 | 3m | |||
V2/3 | ★ Finger lockin' chockin
Sit start low, moving up into crack feature with finger locks and cool windy moves. FA: Cameron Wycherley, Oct 2017 | 3m | |||
V2/3 | One Armed Bear Hug
Start low and matched on pocket. Head out left to an awkward finish on slopers. (History as One Armed Bear Hug V2- unknown FA name, was called Awkward Top (V3) as an assumed FA by Cameron before we saw youtube video of this) | 2m | |||
V2 | ★★ Sneaky Frog
Sit start matched on pocket as for adjacent route. Move through the steepness up R on pockets and good holds. A nice easy line to get a taste of some overhung goodness. | 2m | |||
V2 | ★★ Sliding Down That Hill
Sit start with awesome pinch, up arete to mantle on the right side. FA: Callum Mather | 2m | |||
V2/3 | ★★ Lofi
Start on two obvious slopey features on side face of boulder. Move into jug and traverse up and L along slopey edges to top out at highest point. FA: Cameron Wycherley, 15 Oct 2017 | 5m | |||
V2 | ★ Mental Mantle
Stand start at obvious ledge. High step and mantle to gain high features near lip. Avoid features on lower arete. FA: Cameron Wycherley, Oct 2017 | 4m | |||
V1/2 | ★ Left problem
Sit start mini layback, head up into thumb press and pop to edge pinch. Gain lip and topout. These climbs are located on the 2nd wall to the right of MM & CM. FA: Jared Tyerman, 12 Jul 2019 | 2m | |||
V1/2 | ★ Lowbrow
Sit start at arete and move through good holds up and R. Top out high FA: Cameron Wycherley, 15 Oct 2017 | 4m | |||
V2/3 | ★★ Highbrow
Start with series of jugs, heading up before making long moves through the blank section to holds near the lip. Top out at high point. FA: Cameron Wycherley, 15 Oct 2017 | 5m | |||
V2/3 | Unnamed 5
FA: Hugo Leroy, 9 Jul 2018 | 4m | |||
V2 | Breezy Mantle
Start on slopers, big move to jug and mantle. FA: arlen breeze | 2m | |||
V2 | ★★★ Trust Issues
Start up the juggy ramp before taking some deep breaths and trusting your feet as you traverse right and up to gain the arete and top out. FA: Callum Mather | 9m | |||
Cairns Barron Gorge Radiation Wall | |||||
20 | ★ Taken for Granted
'TFG' at start of climb. A little faded. | 11m, 6 | |||
Cairns Barron Gorge Mackas Bluff | |||||
21 | Skyrail
| ||||
Cairns Barron Gorge Down from Mackas | |||||
V2 | ★ Elmyra
Start to right of Pinky, slopey goodness and rails, high feet, good topout. Same face as The Brain FA: Jared Tyerman | 3m | |||
Cairns Barron Gorge The Zen Garden | |||||
V2 | ★ Leap Frog
Sit start with feet on detached boulder. Full dyno to far right lip and/or lower pinch. Smear and topout. Jared Tyerman and Farid Borbar FA: Jared Tyerman & Farid Borbar Yanez, 26 Jun 2019 | 2m | |||
V2/3 | ★★ Fontainebleau
Sit start hanging or with foot on detached boulder beneath. Sloping arete, mid height edges, positive arete hold. Gain top feature for topout. FA: Jared Tyerman & Farid Borbar Yanez, 26 Jun 2019 | 3m | |||
V2 | ★ Buena Volá
Start seated with flake feature and low/mid feet. Work straight up to edges or slopers and with higher feet gain lip for topout. Jared Tyerman and Farid Borbar FA: Jared Tyerman & Farid Borbar Yanez, 26 Jun 2019 | 3m | |||
V2/3 | ★★ Cracked Knee Bars to Glory
Fun but weird. Start in low cave in far left side of roof crack. Feet on detached rock to knee bar along using crack all the way right to where you wedge into corner. No topout. Using direct crack as a roof climb is awkward and slightly painful due to crack features. But if doable would be rad and hard. Jared Tyerman and Farid Borbar FA: Jared Tyerman, 26 Jun 2019 | 1m | |||
V2 | Traverse before ploughing
Stand start as far right on rail as possible and traverse leftward into holds of Plougher, same topout. Harder if you climb the full traverse ending of Prowler. | 3m | |||
V2 | ★★ Planes Stand
An easier, but just as enjoyable variation to Planes. Stand start with arete and pocket, finishing as for above. FA: Cameron Wycherley, 1 Sep 2018 | 4m | |||
V2 | ★ Absent Borders
The easier, stand start variant of Crossing Borders. Stand start on river side face of boulder. Up and slightly left using arete and features on the face. FA: Cameron Wycherley, 1 Sep 2018 | 4m | |||
V2 | ★ Lopsided
Start left of tree, follow flake feature to top. Don't dab the tree. FA: Jared Tyerman, 7 Nov 2022 | 3m | |||
V2 | Peripheral
Crouch start at RH end of downstream face, just before the drop off. Traverse up and L, topping out at peak. | 3m | |||
Cairns Barron Gorge The Secret Garden | |||||
V2 | ★ Prowl
Start on wobbly jug and arete, up the prow. FA: Callum Mather | 2m | |||
V2 | Grimer
Start wide on sloper and slopey sidepull. One tough move leads to tricky mantle. FA: Callum Mather | 2m | |||
Cairns Barron Gorge Tureaud Cluster | |||||
V2 | ★★★ Alpine Ridge
Stand start with low feature and high rail/jug in crack. Move through series of ledges on slab then topout above. FA: Jared Tyerman, 1 Oct 2019 | 3m | |||
Cairns Barron Gorge The Floating World | |||||
V2 | ★★ Traverse
Start low on sloping lip and traverse L along the edge to mantle top out. Cameron Whycherley (Attempt) FA: Cameron Wycherley, Mar 2015 | 2m | |||
Cairns Barron Gorge Roadside Attraction | |||||
V2 | ★ Storm Rider
Sit start on right edge and left good hold. Gain slightly higher feature then big move to good arete hold. Move left to positive lip then topout central lip. FA: Jared Tyerman, 13 Jul 2019 | 4m | |||
V2 | ★ Lower Traverse
Sit start on slopey edge and positive deep edge. Pop to large features then traverse right to left using predominantly edges. Stay in the middle height of the boulder, no lip holds. Topout top left corner of upstream side of boulder. FA: Jared Tyerman, 18 Jul 2019 | 2m | |||
V2 | ★★★ Necromancer
Sit start on lip vein edge and higher sloper. Gain good ledge then pop out to feature near prow. Climb up and around this to topout. FA: Jared Tyerman, 18 Jul 2019 | 3m | |||
Cairns Barron Gorge Split Rock Area | |||||
V2 | ★★ The Little Roof
Sit start under the low horizontal roof, starting matched on jug towards left end of ledge. Gain the lip and mantle. FA: Cameron Wycherley, 4 Nov 2018 | 2m | |||
V2/3 | ★★ Angle of the Dangle
Start low, on sloped holds near right side arete. Up through blocky features. FA: Cameron Wycherley, 4 Nov 2018 | 2m | |||
V0 - 2 | ★ Sassy Sloth
Traverse upstream to downsteam on good ledge using high feet (heels and toes) for V1. Another alternative is smear along the face making it a bit pumpier to V2 maybe. Is a lot easier using the lower slab though for feet making it V0. FA: Jared Tyerman, 22 Jan 2019 | 2m | |||
Cairns Barron Gorge Calmer Waters | |||||
V2/3 | ★★ Back Pocket
Sit start with great layback jug in middle of face. Up via long moves on nice holds. FA: Cameron Wycherley, 23 Aug 2018 | 2m | |||
V2 | ★ Phyllanthus Arete
A slightly squished sit start amongst the Phyllanthus, low and at the RH end of arête, leads up and L, following arête onto good edge on face. Top out above. FA: Cameron Wycherley, 11 Aug 2018 | 3m | |||
V2 | Traverse
As uninspiring as the name suggests, but interesting enough for a warmup. Sit start at far LH end of long, low face on sidepull. Traverse R along series of poo sloping holds at lip and slick feet. Top out at far R end. FA: Cameron Wycherley, 11 Aug 2018 | 2m | |||
V2 | Pop a Squat
Sit start on L face of boulder with obvious low sidepull. One move wonder to the good holds, then cruise up the slab. FA: Cameron Wycherley, 11 Aug 2018 | 3m | |||
V2 | ★★ Bear Hug
– Sit start at base of slab/arête on obvious RH rail and LH pocket. Directly up via good holds and fun compression moves. Good exposure to the style at an achievable grade. FA: Cameron Wycherley, 11 Aug 2018 | 3m | |||
V2 | ★ Toker of Appreciation
Stand start above the rock on the ground, with good blocky sidepull feature in middle of face. Up via lovely climbing, on surprise jugs. If only it were longer. FA: Cameron Wycherley, 11 Apr 2018 | 3m | |||
V2 | ★ Culled
Deserving of more stars if only longer. Sit start with good low RH scoop and left edge. Pull a solid move to holds up and L, over the bulge and top out above alongside tree roots. FA: Cameron Wycherley, 21 Aug 2018 | 2m | |||
V2 | ★ Relic
Same scooping start hold as for Culled but go directly up. 2 edges and 2-3 slopers. Topout without using tree roots. FA: Jared Tyerman, 8 May 2019 | 2m | |||
V2 | ★ Establishment
Start on lowest left hang slopey side pull and bad right gaston. I'll let you figure out how to even pull on. Climb the slopey jug arete. FA: Callum Mather | ||||
Cairns Barron Gorge Other Side | |||||
V2 | 1
Up smooth scoops to slopey edge and topout on prow (on downstream side of tallest boulder across from Schism / Calmer Waters). Also is a project 1-2m to the left of this line with slim feet and odd holds (though none up top). Fun. FA: Jared Tyerman, 5 Mar 2019 | 4m | |||
Cairns North Wangetti The Breakwall | |||||
V2 | ★★ Long Days
Sit start on the rock and hang off the long rail under the tiny rooflet, slap over the top and mantle out. FA: Nick Murphy, 26 May 2020 | 2m | |||
V2 | ★★ Quartz Faceplate
A tricky sit start at the base of the quartz plate following up the flake and over the top. FA: Nick Murphy, 26 May 2020 | 3m | |||
V2 | ★★ Meet And Bind
Sit start under the small roof on the short arete. Pull up following the rounded flake and then join into 'Line Of Fine' FA: Nick Murphy, 26 May 2020 | 4m | |||
V2 | ★ Gaining Mounds
Sit start with hands on the crimps and smearing feet, use the flake to stand up and gain ground and hit the top and pull over. FA: Nick Murphy, 26 May 2020 | 2m | |||
Cairns North Wangetti Pretty Beach Northern Retreat | |||||
V2 | Crocs Nipping At My Ankles
Hanging with one hand jamming in the vertical break under the lip and the other on any of the nearby jugs throw up from here to follow up the weakness to the top. FA: Nick Murphy, 31 May 2020 | 3m | |||
V2 | ★ Moving Onto Campus
Hanging off the horizontal break to the far right, follow it left and then up the weakness to top out. First half makes for a great campus problem. FA: Nick Murphy, 31 May 2020 | 4m | |||
V2 | ★★ Polka Bear and Get Bitten
For the grovelling traverse addicts amongst us. Get right down between the two boulders, hands in the pocket where the seam turns over the edge, then following along the lip doing the polka until you get to the arete then top out. FA: Nick Murphy, 21 May 2020 | 3m | |||
V2 | ★ Ziggy & The Bugs In My Headtorch
Sit start just behind the arete with hands on the flake. Punch out left to the slopers and whale out. The left hand variation to FA: Nick Murphy, 21 May 2020 | 2m | |||
V2 | ★ Torched Heads Burn Bright
Sit start behind the arete with hands on the high flake, punch around to the right hitting the slopey ledge and mantle through this, keep an eye on the boulder behind you when topping out. FA: Nick Murphy, 21 May 2020 | 2m | |||
V2 | ★ Corn Eared
Grab the triangle undercling from a sit start, 'mantle' onto the face, then use the crack until you top out. FA: Nick Murphy, 21 May 2020 | 2m | |||
V2 | ★ Railing Ruts and Respecting Women
Sit start in the wedge of the rocks at the base of the large flaring crack, hit the jugs on the way up, top out and tell your mum how great she is. FA: Nick Murphy, 17 May 2020 | 3m | |||
V2 | ★★ Running Up A Big Bill
Running start up the slab and fall into the layback, move onto the headwall and top out. Watch out for loose blocks at the top. FA: Nick Murphy, 17 May 2020 | 4m | |||
V2 | ★★ Fangled Angle Dangle Wrangle
Sit start laybacking off the arete, punch up to the break and go until you top out. FA: Nick Murphy, 17 May 2020 | 4m | |||
V2 | ★★ Pleasing The Paletteless
Sit start low on the rising arete, head right and go up the crack and over the spine. FA: Nick Murphy, 31 May 2020 | 3m | |||
V2 | ★★ Waves In My Chalk Bag
Layback off the base of the arete just to the right of 'Spiney Bits'. Follow it up to the right to the top. FA: Nick Murphy, 31 May 2020 | 3m | |||
V2 | ★ Flung Under The Clung
Sit start with hands underclinging the edge of the small rooflet, feet above the block at the bottom of the wall. Head left over the bulge and to the tallest part of the wall. FA: Nick Murphy, 31 May 2020 | 3m | |||
V2 | ★★ Lay La Rocking Clapped On
Sit start using the blade and face holds, going up with the blade and over the rounded top out. FA: Nick Murphy, 31 May 2020 | 3m | |||
V2 | ★ King Of The Soft Grade
Sit start low with right hand in the pocket, and left hand on the arete and head up via the arete and seam. FA: Nick Murphy, 31 May 2020 | 2m | |||
V2 | ★ Ramped Effects
Using the same pocket as 'King Of The Soft Grade' for the left hand, and right hand in the seam below the ramp, head straight up the arete. FA: Nick Murphy, 31 May 2020 | 2m | |||
Cairns North Wangetti Pretty Beach The Zoo Pen | |||||
V2 | ★ Chilled Fingers
Sit start with obvious slanted crack in layback position. Work up crack (find deep sections), pad thoughtfully and use a few good feet on opposite wall to topout above crack. FA: Jared Tyerman, 23 Jul 2018 | 3m | |||
V1/2 | ★★ Pleasantry
Sit start on good blocky jugs in low mini corner. Move up series of obvious blocky features before moving onto the slab, heading up and left to a high but good edge on slab. Very nice but easy climbing on good holds. FA: Cameron Wycherley, 23 Jul 2018 | 3m | |||
V2 | ★ Giraffe Arete
Sit start on the blocky jug straddling the arete with your feet. Follow straight up the arete using slopers, sidepulls, underclings, crimps, and anything else either side of the arete until you top out. FA: Nick Murphy, 9 May 2020 | 4m | |||
Cairns North Wangetti Pretty Beach Grey And Balding | |||||
V2 | ★★ Ants in your eyes
Traverse from low right along sloping rail until you reach the crimp/jug slightly above the rail. Go to the lip via big move and mantle. FA: Callum Mather, 12 Nov 2020 | ||||
V2 | ★ Ants in your pants
Start low right on sloping rail and go straight up via crimps. FA: Callum Mather, 12 Nov 2020 | ||||
Cairns North Wangetti Pretty Beach Below and Beyond Below | |||||
V2 | ★★ The Three Rails Of Hell
Quite a nice problem. Sit start laybacking off the sidepulls, reach up to the horizontal rail, then the next one, and the one after that, and then hit the top. FA: Nick Murphy, 10 May 2020 | 3m | |||
V2 | ★★ Just Squeezed It In
Sit start on the jug below the overhanging arete in the little cave. Pop straight up to the giant jug flake, don't dab the several rocks around you, bust to the top, don't dab again, then top out. FA: Nick Murphy, 10 May 2020 | 3m | |||
V2 | ★★ 22 Tango
Sit start with flat jug and right sidepull. Up the arete on some lovely grips! | 3m | |||
V2 | ★★ Regaining Friction
Sit start off slopey rail with poor feet. Power up to the rails above, trending slightly right until topping out in the middle of the wall. FA: Nick Murphy, 10 May 2020 | 3m | |||
V2 | ★ Crossing The Grater Divide
Sit Start. Pull on using sidepulls and face crimps and trend right following main rightwards seam. FA: Nick Murphy, 10 May 2020 | 3m | |||
V2 | ★★ The Block-Splitter
Gets two stars just for being awkward and funky fun. Sit underneath the central block, gripping the underside blade, feet on whatever walls around you then just thrust up the sides of the 'V' until you can pull up over the top. FA: Nick Murphy, 10 May 2020 | 2m | |||
V2 | ★★★ Slap Some Jam On It
Fun easy highball but with a hard start. Sit start at the base of the long diagonal crack at the bottom right, using the pocket and the crack pull up and around the blunt arete onto the face and head straight up the tallest part of the wall, and watch your headspace! FA: Nick Murphy, 10 May 2020 | 6m | |||
V2 | ★★★ Test The Respiratory Arrest
Sit start around the rounded arete, pulling up off the flakes, slopes until you hit the upside down flake, balancing all the time unto you're onto the good holds at the top. Not sure what the name means? You might know by the time you're at the top. FA: Nick Murphy, 24 May 2020 | 4m | |||
V2 | ★★ Mourner Corner
Stand start by walking up the ramp into the corner crack, follow up this using what you can until over the top. Be wary of the large block at the top though, it may not be secure. There is a large jug just above it though. FA: Nick Murphy, 24 May 2020 | 4m | |||
V2 | ★★ Hypoxic Heights
Stand start pulling up onto the face with the underclings, then hanging off the flake crimps until you can reach up to the triangle and pull over the top. Sit down on the top and get some oxygen back into your head. FA: Nick Murphy, 24 May 2020 | 4m | |||
V2 | ★★ Should've Zigged But You Zagged
Zigging and Zagging your way across the cracks and then onto the slopes above. Start with hands in the middle of the wall, trend right a little and then up beside the bulge. Sneaky holds all over here so keep your eyes peeled. FA: Nick Murphy, 24 May 2020 | 2m | |||
V2 | ★ Wiggle And Dive
Sit start using the crimp rail, go from this balancing up and dive for the top. Will be hard for the height impaired. FA: Nick Murphy, 24 May 2020 | 2m | |||
Cairns North Wangetti Pretty Beach Below and Beyond Beyond | |||||
V2 | ★★ Wet Knees In My Etnies
Sit start with the flat crimps just to the right of the boulder at the base, bust straight up for the massive jug and continue up. FA: Nick Murphy, 24 May 2020 | 3m | |||
V2 | ★ Ice Cubes
Start in the undercling on the left of the 'fingers' and punch up over the top and whale out. FA: Nick Murphy, 24 May 2020 | 2m | |||
Cairns North Wangetti Turtle Creek Beach & Ratchet Bay | |||||
V2 | Landfill
Sit start on jug. FA: Callum Mather | 3m | |||
V2 | Slot sluit
Sit with obvious jug, move through slots and interesting moves and into the flakiness (extra flakey, be wary) FA: Cameron Wycherley, 4 Feb 2018 | 2m | |||
V2 | 24 Slab
Stand start (sit could go) and follow blunt arete up directly to good high edge and through the blank top (keep an eye out for a cheeky shallow mono). Add the headwall for a little extra headiness, or top out left at break. FA: Cameron Wycherley, 17 Feb 2018 | 4m | |||
V2 | ★ It's Arete
Directly up the obvious arete from a sit start, with good sidepulls. FA: Cameron Wycherley, 17 Feb 2018 | 4m | |||
Cairns North Wangetti Slip Cliff Point | |||||
V2 | ★★ Surgical Spirit
Sit start, up arete lay-backing on jugs. Mantle and finish up the slab. FA: Callum Mather Set: Nick Murphy, 22 Apr 2020 | 8m | |||
Cairns Atherton Tablelands McDonald Track The Mystic Forest | |||||
V2 | Mystic Aura
FA: Callum Mather | 4m | |||
V2 | Shard
Sit start low on jug, up face. FA: Callum Mather | 3m | |||
Cairns Atherton Tablelands Davies Creek | |||||
21 | It Can Be Done
| 20m | |||
Cairns Atherton Tablelands Emerald Creek | |||||
V2 | We Left Arete-y
Start with left arete and right hand in seam. Use slopey right side pull and hand-toe match on arete to balance your way up and out on slopey goodness. FA: Callum Mather Set: Jared Tyerman | 4m | |||
V2 | ★★★ The Smooth Machine DS
FA: Jason Shaw | ||||
V2 | ★★★ The Smoth Machine LHV
FA: Steve Baskerville |