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Access issues inherited from Passchendaele State Forest

HQ Plantations act as land manager for all the bouldering locations listed below. They operate as Plantation Licensee under the terms of the Forestry Act 1959, and are thus obliged to permit, but not necessarily promote, recreational access. However, climbers should understand that the primary purpose of a State Forest is timber extraction rather than recreation, and HQ Plantations have legislative authority to restrict recreational access from time to time where timber harvesting operations presents a hazard to the public. Furthermore, HQ Plantations are required to recognize all roads within the licence area as public roads. However, they have authority to temporarily restrict access for the reasons already given. Please recognize the authority of any signage that restricts access. Please obey the instructions of the Plantation Officers who patrol the area. Should you feel that any restriction is unjust or unwarranted, contact ACAQ, president@climb.org.au, and we will take up the matter for you.

Routes

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Grade Route

Same boulder as the ANAAN - 6m to the left of it. Starts with a palm down to the far right of lowest ledge, and goes nearly straight up over a interesting bulgy face.

FA: Len Dalit, Elliot moss & Zac Yang

FA: Corey Batten, 2016

Stand start on two small holds, and throw up and left to positive side-pull. How it ends was anybody's guess ... until visiting Canadian Simon Parton showed everyone how it's done in 2016 in the inaugural Passchendaele V1 Bouldering Festival.

FA: Simon Parton, 9 Oct 2016

The project to the right of ANAAN.

Around the back of the boulder that “A Name and A Number” is on. Climb the inconspicuous slab on small edges to the large sidepull rail. Beware the solid-ish hollow-sounding flake above.

FA: Alex Mougenot, 2016

Stand start left side pull right two pad sloper to crimpy jug then slab to glory. FFA Issy Jukes.

Stand start either left hand side pull and right hand crimp or left hand crimp and right hand mono on terrible feet.

Sit Start Lh side pull, Rh low in crimpy crack. Fight the bulge. Stand to glory.

Mostly cleaned, closed project.

Set: Oliver Rickford & Kieran Pates, 23 Oct

Overhanging Bulge provides a good mantling challenge. Found facing away from the access road on the backside of “Bitter” bloc.

  1. Start to the left under the bulge standing on rock.

  2. Use left side and under the bulge.

  3. Ledge on top of bulge.

  4. Mantle to win.

  5. Top out is easy from there.

Descent: Exit to your right hand side, downclimb steps/ledges.

Video: https://www.instagram.com/p/Btpuq1ABt6o/

FA: Andrew Ramsden, 9 Feb 2019

Front face of BOTB

FA: Peter Crane

Left of TSN

FA: JSBC

Sit start the right arete with a high LH side pull and low undercling. Straight up!

FA: JSBC, Jun 2021

Right side of pink bits slab, staying off arete. Nice moves.

Stand-start this ‘must do’ semi-high ball, with small holds and crystals for feet in the centre on the rippled, mossy slab facing the road, close to Blue Moon.

FA: Corey Batten, 2016

to the left of pink bits, start with hairline left crimp and right break

FA: sam bowman

FA: Peter Crane

FA: Oskar Kindbom

FA: Peter Crane

FA: Oskar Kindbom

Start left hand in seam, right on small side pull. Climb directly over bulge

FA: Oskar Kindbom

Stand start on juggy flake on the left side of the dish, straight up.

FA: AJ Amies

Stand-start this classic ‘one move wonder’ problem reaching for the large pocket, figuring out a way to mantle it.

FA: Peter Crane

Sit start with positive undercling and chuck to a small crimp- blasting up.

FA: Peter Crane

FA: Madeleine Eppensteiner

Stand start. Right foot on low wobbly flake. Left hand reaches high. Head up and right on tiny holds for top. Beware falling at the top and shaving your back down the boulder to the right (home to Michael the Magician). Beware, there is no easy way off this boulder. Prepare to either downclimb or jump.

Boulder is located just to the left (when facing Magic Mike) of boulder 5 in the Peter Crane and Pinnacle Sports Guides.

FA: JM, 28 Aug

The arcing offwidth to the left of Magic Mike. Say hello to funkiness when it starts arching.

FA: Eric Straw, 2016

The obvious crack

FA: Steve Kloske

FA: Peter Crane

Inside the cave. Make your way up the left side of the slab Slightly harder if you avoid the giant boulder to the left.

Squat start the rail in the middle of the wall and figure out the techno puzzle. Most excellent

FA: Peter Crane

Stand start the LH sharp arete. Big move to a good hold and straight up to a positive finish

FA: Peter Crane

In the cave, right side of the slab

Sit start. Sharp, right leaning layback feature in the lowest of the stacked boulders opposite the torpedo area. Great hands, delicate footholds.

FFA: Rob Saunders, 9 Oct 2016

FA: Steve Kloske

Right of 'Match Fit' - start on generous undercling, throw for good holds and continue up.

FA: Peter Crane

FA: Peter Crane

Mantle problem left of Awkward Silence. Pull up on decent holds, high step and rock your way up to glory. Take care traversing off the top.

FA: Peter Crane

Jump start to the high crimp. campus your way up to the pocket and from there get your feet back on and top out. Short and powerful! Crazy idea by Zach Tesiram which worked nicely

FA: Alexander Cvetkovski, 4 Oct 2020

Tap into your inner zen on this beautiful slab, fondling the small nipple-like features on your way through to an exciting topout!

FA: Alex Mougenot, Apr 2016

The thin, off-balance, slabby seam opposite Frosty Nips.

FA: Alex Mougenot, 2016

Stand start at low bulge in rock. Straight up the slab.

On boulder 42 of the Peter Crane and Pinnacle Sports guides.

Set: Oliver Gilmartin

FA: JM, 28 Aug

Stand start a little bit left of the tree. Up the small holds on the slab. Trends slightly right to the jug at the topout.

On boulder 42 of the Peter Crane and Pinnacle Sports Guides

Set: Tihana Picot & jasper mullaly

FA: JM, 28 Aug

FA: Steve Kloske

FA: Josie Resetarits

FA: Steve Kloske

FA: Peter Crane

FA: Lachlan Ennis

FA: Steve Kloske

Sot start. Match on jug. Up and slightly left via good hold. Also doubles as a decent downclimb off this boulder.

Start as for 'Hellbows' but head up with some sneaky beta and then left across some chossy crimps before getting reach solid rock again. Easy top out from there.

FFA: Kurt Doherty, 9 Oct 2016

Start on good holds. Traverse right along the lip then mantle the ledge and climb to the top of the boulder.

FA: Josie Resetarits

FA: Matthew Cochrane

FA: Peter Crane

FA: Peter Crane

Sit start on jug and follow natural line to the right to reach juggy pocket and easy top out.

FFA: Kurt Doherty, 9 Oct 2016

FA: Peter Crane

FA: Steve Kloske

FA: Leah Dempsey

Peter Crane's boulder that starts at the jug for "Ride the Saddle, Extended" but goes to the right, along the seam.

FA: Peter Crane

FA: Peter Crane

FA: Harry Bowman

FA: Peter Crane

To NE of Hidden In Plain View, between slopey rocks and face with cracks. Up obvious crack and up lodged, juggy rock slices.

FA: Jarred Vardy, 16 Jan 2021

Up obvious crack to R of the convenient bail-tree into pure and engaging climbing. Hands and fist swimming to topout and fanfare. Good intro to jambing.

FFA: Steven vdb, 16 Jan 2021

Climb the perfect finger crack using locks and lie back technique. Located uphill of boulder #19 as listed in the Peter Crane topo.

FA: David Jefferson, 27 Jan 2020

FA: Ziek

FA: Steve Kloske

FA: Peter Crane

A contrived start on the lowest holds possible bunched into a big move to a bucket. Starting one hold higher gets you a v4

FA: Madeleine Eppensteiner

Climb the sharp arete with tricky mantle and awkward footholds.

FA: Oskar Kindbom, 2014

The high slab on the boulder directly facing All or Nothing. Start up vertical seam then up and left to a high topout. One of the best problems anywhere.

FA: Bill Hale

Stand start some of the best granite in Passchendael up the cracked, bulgy wall to a exciting, athletic mantle out.

FA: Matthew Cochrane

FA: Madeleine Eppensteiner

FA: Matthew Cochrane

FA: Peter Crane

FA: Harry Bowman

FA: Bill Hale

FA: Matthew Cochrane

FA: Peter Crane

FA: Peter Crane

Stand start the blunt arete right of Clever Creatures. Rh high mono sloper, Lh on small highcrimp. Could possible start lower on bad compression holds. Up the blankness to mantle.

Half cleaned.

Up the obvious crack.

Sit start the left side of the brown vertical face, on side pulls. Move up and across more side pills, to an airy mantle out. To get down lower back to lip and drop down with pads stacked.

FA: JSBC, Aug 2020

Get technical and some wind up there, on the sharp Arete. Cleaned and scrubbed on one of the windiest days.

FA: JSBC, Aug 2020

Right arete on the same bloc as “When The Wind Changes”. Always seems to be raining each weekend of 2021 @ Passchendale. Stand start the prominent arete with side pulls & make a tough move, gradually getting easier but committing. Nice movement, average granite.

On the smallest boulder of the three making the 'cave', make your way up the left side avoiding touching the giant boulder to the left.

FA: Bernie Welsh

In the cave, right side of the slab. Just right of 'Overlord'.

FA: Rob Saunders

One of Passchendaele’s best for the grade. Unlock the puzzling sequences rising up through the center of the pyramid. Keep your game face on for the top out and pray your spotters don't run for cover!

FA: Rob Saunders, Oct 2018

Sit start and the climb the slab.

Stand start likely to go between V2 and V4 depending on difficulty of top out. Light hand on eye level side pull. Right hand on head head side pull (or bad pinch). High right foot to start then start going up.

Set: 29 Aug

Start in obvious crack. Traverse right then head up to top.

On boulder 40 of the Peter Crane and Pinnacle Sports guides

FA: rhys miller

Stand start. Hands start on crimpy rail. Pull up to crack of Poofteenth of a Smilly Whisker where it heads up to top up. Follow this line to the top.

On boulder 40 of the Peter Crane and Pinnacle Sports guides

FA: JM, 29 Aug

Stand start with ideal small incut crimps and nonexistent feet. Dynamic climbing, creeping up over the bulge defines this problem on great granite. Named after the recent fire that engulfed Passchendaele and also the feeling of working too much.

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