Access issues inherited from Passchendaele State Forest

HQ Plantations act as land manager for all the bouldering locations listed below. They operate as Plantation Licensee under the terms of the Forestry Act 1959, and are thus obliged to permit, but not necessarily promote, recreational access. However, climbers should understand that the primary purpose of a State Forest is timber extraction rather than recreation, and HQ Plantations have legislative authority to restrict recreational access from time to time where timber harvesting operations presents a hazard to the public. Furthermore, HQ Plantations are required to recognize all roads within the licence area as public roads. However, they have authority to temporarily restrict access for the reasons already given. Please recognize the authority of any signage that restricts access. Please obey the instructions of the Plantation Officers who patrol the area. Should you feel that any restriction is unjust or unwarranted, contact ACAQ,, and we will take up the matter for you.


From Boatfields Rd, head down Simmonds Lane for 150m. The Lane will be on your left.


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Grade Route

The bloc in front of Wild Honey to the left. Stand start to high RH pocket and low LH crimp. Pull on static and move up to a dirty mantle

FA: JSBC & Tom Toro

To the right of Snail Slab under the scoop. Stand start With thumbpress RH and LH mono with large feet, Long move to options of small holds which gives way to a powerful exit of the bulge.

FA: JSBC, Dec 2020

Start in the hole and mantle out

Start on juggy flake that runs up to ledge with a polite tree. Finish on great jugs and fun feet. Watch out for brittle edges of rails.

FA: Jarred Vardy, 17 Jan

Fun ladder-climb up flat face with good jugs.

FA: Jarred Vardy, 17 Jan

Sit start on nice holds, follow small side of rock up to L ledge and top out.

FA: Max Koebrugge, 24 Jan

Start just left of Ma Ling Ling, move left up the seam and follow it to the top left of the boulder.

FA: Peter Crane

Start as for The Seamstress adn at roughly 2/5th's height move right across the face for the flake at the top of Ma Ling Ling, top out as for that route. Careful with the flake!

FA: Peter Crane

Stand start right end of bloc with shallow LH mono and RH pencil nothingness. All of the holds on the left following the seam are out. This line goes straight up on tiny holds and feet.

FA: Peter Crane

The face variant of Wild Honey (may have been sent once when the area was getting established. Grade is supposed V10ish but unclear. We believe this to be an ongoing project (Please let someone know if this is already claimed!) The name Honeycomb is a suggestion to keep in theme of the rest of the bloc.

Follow Wild Honey to the beginning of it's crux sequence. Instead of heading under the arete to tackle the bulging arete instead adjust to head straight into the face above the beginning of the crux, direct up from there to gain the top.

Set by Matt Cochrane?

FA: Matt Cochrane

FA: Double T, 2016

Sit start on obvious rail and climb straight up semi-highball face. Watch pad placement

FFA: Eric Straw

Sit start off big sidepull in the scoop left around from Holiday Inn. Hard move up and out.

Left of Belt BNB. Stand start on crimps and climb up the mossy face to top out on decent holds.

FFA: Lucy Stirling

Start well to the left of Spirit Fingers on very obvious jug. Traverse lip rightwards and top out in the middle.

FFA: Lucy Stirling

Left to right full traverse. Sit-Start on 'Unnamed 2' and traverse lip on small crimps with a powerful drop down move, across to the start of SF, then topping out.

FA: JSBC, Jun 2020

Climb the right hand side of the Onion Boulder. trend right at the top for an easy finish onto the ledge. Originally climbed this way before Onion Scary was established as a more direct variant (and probably the better line!)

FA: Tatiana Proboste, 4 Oct

FA: Tatiana Proboste, 4 Oct

Sit start on the large ledge on the left side of the boulder, rock around the corner (trending right) to balance beneath the top. find your way up and over. Enjoy!

FA: Nick Foulds, 4 Oct

Stand start with left hand on crimp to the left of "the egg", then semi-dynamic move up to sharp thumb pinch and ledge. Traverse right onto the second boulder. Top out above "short stop".

FA: James Stewart

FFA: James Stewart, 26 May 2019

Sit start on rail and mantle out. Don't use the 'Egg' boulder behind you.

FFA: AJ Amies

Stand start at left end of boulder and mantle out.

FFA: Rob Saunders

Sit start then up the three pockets to top out.

FA: AJ Amies

Start at the razor sharp thin crack just left of the big vertical crack. Follow the thin crack left, then shoot for the top.

Starting 1.5m left of The Razors Edge, up seam to small holds, then up to jug rail.

Straight up the crack on jams, locks and whatever else you can find

Sit start moving up to obvious pocket and straight up the crack and face. Most definitely a highball. Stack pads to lookers right to get down

FA: Aj

FA: Dwayne McColl

Start on the western side of the boulder and traverse around clockwise.

FA: Emily Amies

To the left of Not My Problem


FA: Peter Crane

The beautiful pocketed bulge. Immaculate pink granite

Block at the edge of the forest beside Simmonds Lane, on the western edge of The Lane.

Delicate slab climbing. Stand start.

FA: 22 Oct 2017

From obvious sharp jug on NW side. Slap up the arete using anything you can find.

FA: Jonas Teixeria, 22 Oct 2017

Straight up the arete left of the pocketed face from a sit start. Western Union - because it sends.

FA: Simon Chap, 22 Oct 2017

Up the pocketed face to a committing topout. Start with hands in the big low pocket.

FA: Dave OS, 22 Oct 2017

Stand start on small boulder behind tree

FA: 22 Oct 2017

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