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Main wall All Bouldering 22 routes in sector

22
BLDV
VB+V0-V0V0+V1V2V3V4V5V7V9V11

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Description

The obvious main wall, located about 100m past the warm-up slabs. This includes the Dejableau boulder, a small slab just before the main wall and the Mach 3 boulder, a small slab to the right of the main wall.

Access issues inherited from White Rock Conservation Area

Be aware that there is a rare plant that calls the boulders we climb home. It is in our interest to accommodate it. More details can be found on the ACAQ web site:

http://www.qldclimb.org.au/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/White-Rock-Rare-Plant-Notice-4Sep13.pdf

Ethic inherited from White Rock Conservation Area

Redbank is home to some extremely rare plants that call the top of some of our boulders home. If there are logs defining top outs please respect these and avoid trampling anything that isn't grass. For more information check out http://www.qldclimb.org.au/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/White-Rock-Rare-Plant-Notice-4Sep13.pdf .

Be mindful of other users, don't leave rubbish or disturb any vegetation. Stick to the established tracks where possible. Do not use steel wire brushes as these will take away the holds.

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Contents

Routes

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Grade Route

Dejableau boulder Back to contents

First blank slab you encounter before the main wall.

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2
V2 ★ Bowl of Doom Boulder 3m

Start both hands in obvious bowl on left hand side of slab. Finish straight up.

FA: Glen Eaton, 2011

3
V3 ★★ Lizard People Boulder 3m

Stand-Start as BOD (RH in bowl) except LH down low on good hold (side pull) and left foot on wall. Straight up then traversing right on small edges. The whole lip left off the little shrub is out. Finish on jugs under the rock stack, highest point of boulder (the same finish as The non-friction section)

FA: Jimmy Blackhall & Michael C, Jun 2020

4
V5 ★★ Dejableau Boulder 3m

Blank slab starting of the right side of the boulder (standing on rock) heading left to finish above 'Bowl of Doom'. It is important that you weight the wall as statically as possible. Jumping or hopping off the ground definitely changes the grade.

FA: Daniel Gordon, 2012

5
V5 ★★ The non-friction section Boulder 3m

Start the same as Dejableau but head up and finish on the right side of the boulder. It is important that you weight the wall as statically as possible. Jumping or hopping off the ground definitely changes the grade.

FA: Elizabeth Cuskelly & Patrick Banda, 2013

6
V0 3 girls one scar Boulder 2m

Right side arete on back of dejableau boulder. Start standing with arete and mono.

FFA: Tara Davidson, 2013

Mach 3 boulder Back to contents

Small slab behind the Dejableau boulder and right of the main wall.

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8
V2 Quick shave Boulder 2m

Starting with the left side pull up to the rail, mantle finish.

FA: Neil Jenman, 29 Aug 2015

9
V2 ★ Sea shepherd Boulder 3m

Jump to slopey rail and mantle. A stretch beforehand is advised.

FFA: Daniel Gordon, 2012

10
V2 ★ Redbank Gillete Mach 4 Boulder 2m

Longer version of Redbank Gillete Mach 3 that traverses further up the lip.

11
V2 Redbank Gillete Mach 3 Boulder 2m

Grab the lip, find the good sloper and mantle.

FFA: Blair Campbell, 2012

Main wall Back to contents

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13
V2 You bite the fry.. the fry bites back! Boulder 4m

Start up left hand hueco and finish straight up for an easy but committing problem.

FFA: Johnny Schwartz, 2013

14
V5 ★★ Commitment issues Boulder 5m

Start up right hand hueco and head straight up for a commiting finish, spotters required.

FA: Cal, 23 Jul 2015

15
V7 ★★ Barn Owl Boulder 5m

Start in huge hueco then head right into seam and finish straight up.

FA: Sam Bowman, 2013

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16
Lost memories project BoulderProject 5m

Start as for remember to forget, then bust left from slopey pocket to finish up the Barn Owl. Still a project

17
V9 ★★★ Remember to Forget Boulder 5m

The middle/left line on “Superhard wall” from the big slopey pocket straight up. The tiny crux crimp has been broken since its original ascent by Oliver Miller. Has now been resent by Sam Bowman in it's new harder state.

The thin crux gaston hold is continually breaking and reforming.

FA: Oliver Miller, 2011

FA: May 2014

18
V10 ★★ Megaston (Time's up direct) Boulder 4m

Start in obvious low pocket, head up and right past sloper and finish just left of times up.

FFA: Sam bowman, 24 Apr 2015

19
V12 ★★ Time's Up Boulder 5m

One of the hardest problem's in Queensland. This is the amazing line in the middle of the wall.

FA: Paul Robinson, 2013

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20
V11 ★ Nalle where are you? Boulder 5m

Start as for times up but head straight up via huge dyno

FA: Sam Bowman

21
Bigfoot (Sasquatch Direct) BoulderProject 4m

Start at low break, then up to slopey rail, huck to gaston pocket over lip and finish as for 'Sasquatch'.

22
V8 ★★ Sasquatch Boulder 5m

Stand-start as for “Glen's V4” heading to the ball/pinch, then traverse left, across the arch- blasting up to a line of ming’in slopes. Finish up left with a high spicy mantle. The holds after the ball/pinch on Glen’s V4 are not in.

FA: Sam Bowman, 2013

23
V4 ★★ Glen's V4 Boulder 4m

Straight up obvious groove, kinda scary, kinda funky but real good.

Jimmy Blackhall

FFA: Glen Eaton, 2011

24
V4 ★★ The Basalisk Boulder 3m

Start as for Glen's V4 then traverse right on slopers and crimps and mantle out.

FFA: Alex Turnbull, 2013

25
V3 ★ Triangle Mantle Boulder 2m

Mantle big triangular sloper.

FFA: Glen Eaton, 2011

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

South East Queensland Climbing Guide

Author(s): Simon Carter

Date: 2018

ISBN: 9780958079068

A few years ago there was basically Frog Buttress and Coolum. Since then there has been more development than Barangaroo and South East Queensland should be on any climbers radar no matter what your style. Except ice climbing, definitely no ice climbing. But over 1250 routes with hard sport, multipitches and quality trad to make a great trip.

Buy
ⓘ
Queensland Bouldering

Author(s): Jimmy Blackhall & David Jefferson

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9377779499658

Hidden within the ordinary people of Queensland there exists a tight-knit community of scabby knuckles, grazed knees, massive forearms and iron-clad wills. This guidebooks seeks to shed light on this community and blocks of choice with all the information, skills and knowledge to open the door for you to explore all the bouldering that Queensland has to offer.

-5% Buy
ⓘ

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Thu 30 Nov
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