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Access issues inherited from White Rock Conservation Area

Be aware that there is a rare plant that calls the boulders we climb home. It is in our interest to accommodate it. More details can be found on the ACAQ web site:

http://www.qldclimb.org.au/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/White-Rock-Rare-Plant-Notice-4Sep13.pdf

Approach

Head up the main track from the carpark until you hit the T-intersection and the big tree. Here head left and keep following this track, ignoring the right turn that takes you to white rock. Follow the track for 500m or so until you see the obvious, 'SuperHard to miss', cave up on your right.

Ethic inherited from White Rock Conservation Area

Redbank is home to some extremely rare plants that call the top of some of our boulders home. If there are logs defining top outs please respect these and avoid trampling anything that isn't grass. For more information check out http://www.qldclimb.org.au/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/White-Rock-Rare-Plant-Notice-4Sep13.pdf .

Be mindful of other users, don't leave rubbish or disturb any vegetation. Stick to the established tracks where possible. Do not use steel wire brushes as these will take away the holds.

Routes

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Grade Route

Sit-start then up corner using crack.

FA: Nathan O'Donnel & Johnny Schwartz, Apr 2014

Sit-start/hanging start on the obvious rail.

Sit-start/hanging start on obvious rail.

Stand-start up slab to the left of the cave (start left of the tree)

FA: Nicholas Tierney & Johnny Schwartz

Stand-start up the tall slab (right-side of boulder)

Stand-start up the tall slab (left-side of boulder)

Start by climbing through a giant hueco on the right side of the cave and then straight up to mantle.

FA: phil beattie, 2013

Start sitting, then move up the crack before moving right on some small edges to get to the lip. Be careful mantling out.

FA: Sam Bowman, 12 Aug 2015

Pull onto top of flake and make very hard Gaston onto prominent edge. Match the edge and throw for the lip of the cave, drop onto the lip and manle out. Very very committing line which requires experience and lots of pads/spotters.

Perhaps an extremely hard sit start could be added or a link in from when pigs fly via the crack.

FFA: Alistair Earley & sam bowman, 29 May 2020

Hard line right of wrestle mania starting very low and eventually blasting through the roof. Its all there!

Start further in the cave and move out to the arete and finish up OHT

FFA: Brendan fraser, 2013

Sit-start then start slapping up the fridge.

FA: Daniel Gordon, 2013

Start as for Overhead Transparency but half way up the fridge bust left and up the poopy slab.

FA: Jimmy Blackhall, Jun 2019

Sit start. Both hands on lip of silly small cave. Feet to left on flat wall of cave. Mantle out. Beware loose holds on and above lip of cave. Beware falling down slope below. The name says it all for this silly climb.

FA: Jack Mullaly, 29 Sep 2021

As per you'll happily miss it but start with one hand deep in the cave on the jug. Find a way to get out without dabbing.

Set: Jack Mullaly, 29 Sep 2021

Obvious slab boulder 20m to the left of the main Super Hard to Miss cave. Some cool slopey slab lines here.

Up slab with nice high feet, until up high, where you give Jesus the wheel and leave the rest to him.

FA: Brae Hilditch, 2015

Start to the right of Choose Wisely with good feet to start off with. Up really nice slab, climbing through the thin flakeline.

FA: Alex Mougenot, 2015

Straight up the left hand side of the boulder. Choose your holds up high wisely.

FA: Brae Hilditch, 2015

A link up of all the problems on the boulder. Some awesome stepthrough moves that make you feel like a slab pro. Step up Choose Wisely, then immediately traverse right up and across Slab King Pro, then tell Jesus to take the wheel, finishing up this.

FA: Alex Mougenot, 2015

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Simon Carter

Date: 2018

ISBN: 9780958079068

A few years ago there was basically Frog Buttress and Coolum. Since then there has been more development than Barangaroo and South East Queensland should be on any climbers radar no matter what your style. Except ice climbing, definitely no ice climbing. But over 1250 routes with hard sport, multipitches and quality trad to make a great trip.

Author(s): Jimmy Blackhall & David Jefferson

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9377779499658

Hidden within the ordinary people of Queensland there exists a tight-knit community of scabby knuckles, grazed knees, massive forearms and iron-clad wills. This guidebooks seeks to shed light on this community and blocks of choice with all the information, skills and knowledge to open the door for you to explore all the bouldering that Queensland has to offer.

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