Routes in Queensland for selected grade

Relentless compression problem with a powerful squat/sit using R crimp and L pinch/slope. Gaining the lip grants you the experience of a ridiculously committing and tricky mantle up the small corner. Grade needs confirmation V8 or V9.

Alt-start (sit) on R crimps for same/harder grade.

Oliver Rickford

Stand start on crimps in middle of wall. Go up.

Yes it's a another mega linkup. Procrastislider to Slider's 2nd last bolt. Then across the wall to the deadpoint (2nd last bolt) of Howler, then right to the last bolt of Wailer and finish up Dr Pinocchio. Superduperpooperpumper!!!

The longest and hardest Link-up of them all. Climb The Expedition, but finish up Overseer Right Hand Variant. Adds a resistance crux that's a heart breaker...

Immaculate rock meets extremely exposed position. Clip the first bolt of The Bends then head hard right, traversing through very steep terrain. Make your way around arête and up a beautiful bright orange wall to a rest in mini cave. Reach out right to clip a final FH and slap your way to glory or heartbreak up the last little headwall to anchor.

Big and bold, a King Line of the Summit Cave. Devotion required. To start, set a belay on the ledge atop Trojan's first pitch using the first bolt of this route. Stem and undercling out the beyond horizontal roof to lip. Lip traverse right. Up very steep wall to 'the arrow hold'. Then breach crux to gain the corner of In Between Dreams. Finish up this.

The right most bolted line in Cave 5. A very tricky roof climb. So steep it goes past horizontal. Bring your bouldering arms.

Climbs the smooth wall straight above Fruit Bat.

Ringbolts starting just R of TMAAL. A weird looking line which climbs really well. Make sure you bring your kneepads for this one. Popular.

Climb AKTF then keep going for another 3 bolts.

Start up 'Evel Knievel', head left at FH and across Esoteric Agenda, across Sideways Rain and finishing up at SEH anchors. Pumper.

Climb Evil for three bolts before trending sharply left for a burly traverse below SO (past the weird double bolts). Joins SO for its top two bolts.

Start up the first 3 bolts of Evil, then veer up and left for another 3 bolts before getting a weird ledge rest. A few more moves and you're done.

Climb Evil, but veer left before cave and up the face above encountering some bouldery moves.

Combines the cruxes of three routes. Start off Knifey Spooney, then into Spoonman and finally veer left into Iron Man. Lots of fun bouldering with good rests in between.

Climb Spoonman and step left at the anchor. Keep going up to link with some good rock. Finish at Camp III.

SpoonBaby across into Iron Man, avoids the good low knee bars on Spoonman. Should prove sustained.

Separation thru to demolition mans anchors. Out there.

Climb from the ground straight up and finish at Full Metal's anchor. Burly never-ending bouldering. Epitomises the style of the right side of the cave.

Start on Assistance is Futile. Straight up and instead of going left to the Full Metal anchor, keep going straight all the way up to the True North anchor. A bouldery start leads you to a nice pumpy ending. Nice link up.

Assistance is Futile into Animal Mother then all the way to Call of Duty’s anchor. Long draw on Crazy Horny's anchor and enjoy.

Start 3m L of Grazed Anatomy at ringbolts. Throw, pinch and scream for three bolts. After that, finish up Grazed Anatomy.

Direct start to Full Metal Traverse (start at the true north boulder problem and head left to finish at full metal's anchor. So bouldery and sustained.

Really cool low dyno (unless you're Long-arms Schimke), then a baffling upper crux which can be solved with some knee-trickery. Hard to grade as the sequence is short, but hard/bizarre. It goes without saying the chalked holds out right on Harvey Wallbanger are not in. 7 ringbolts to anchors. Rebolted December 2013.

Up Semtex till 5th cruxing left to the carrot then clipping one FH on nitro and lean into sat night crux. Tight crux with multiple dead points and massive spans. Ninderry’s new test piece.

Sit start on lowest possible side-pull/undercling, pull through the start of Boxing Clever and up good holds into the throw of Yabba Dabba Doorect.

Easy? It has been discovered that it is not easy. Stand start on the two sloping finger holds then straight up.

Start with left hand in the obvious jug and right hand in a hidden hold under the rock.

Start on obvious slopey rail and undercling edge, make a series of powerful moves straight up then head out left to finish on central jugs

Sit start with double heel hooks, hands matching the horn. Out to a side pull then up the arete to mantle

Sit start and up very thin crimps on near vertical wall

Regrade proj due to holds exploding.

Sit start at L end of Titanic boulder face, finish straight up.

Start on the opposing crimps, up past side pull to high flake.

http://vimeo.com/27677576

Sit start at L end of Titanic boulder face, traverse R across face and finish up prow.

Start in the small cave on the good rail and try not to dab the boulder behind you!

start two hand in jugga. excellent problem with a committing finishing move

Start on the left inside rail as for Easily Amoose'd and staying on the outside rails join into I Oink, Therefore I Ham

Start Matched on the crimpy flat hold on the bottom left of the boulder near the detached rock (watch your head) stay along the arete and finish on the top jug rail before mantleing over.

There may be another line possible that mantles earlier. but for Hammer Head climb all the out right.

Beta for clarity: https://youtu.be/BNXb8dtM5IQ

Start left hand on the same hold as Land Of Shadow and Right hand on the Lower of the two right hand side pulls. One FU move to glory.

Start on the bulge with right hand finger lock thing, The big attached lower rock(s) are in.

F is for friends who do stuff together U is for you and me N is for anywhere and anytime at all Down here in the deep blue sea

“Baby Bonus Long”- for the novelty of one side of the “Prowl wall” to the other. Start far left, on the furthest lowest jugs around “Ezee Peezy”. Start racing across the whole wall into “Baby Bonus VF” and finish as it’s VF version, traversing the slopey lip to finish further right.

Start matched on the small blocky hold, figure out how to do the large move to the middle crimp and mantle. Avoid wall on the left.

Sit start. Right hand on slopey lichen rain just above overhang. Left hand on crimp 30cn diagonally up and left. Feet in break. Move straight up on crimps then mantle. Do not traverse left into jug of Ant Man. Beware that 4th hold is flexing. Likely needs to break then send with what remains. Grade likely to end up around V5 or V6, but would be higher or lower depending on how things play out.

Start as for Unleash the Dancer Within and traverse L the whole way, topping out at Smoke and Mirrors.

Start on Cobb Loaf, traverse L across the wall all the way into Left of Ferns, top this out. Not sure if this was ever actually sent (Simon Moses?). Cracking hard problem.

Sit start then up the crimpy edges.

As per The elusive white rhinobut don't use the large sidepull. Note that sidepull is excluded because there used to be a dead tree here when the project was originally set. Note the original name for this project is likely either the Nanook Project or the Hellhound project.

Sit-start under the wave feature, on the RH side of the arete. Energy draining moves on pockets and slopes, lead up into the V5’s committing top out. The must do of Slab Land.

Sit start this ceiling classic, on the lip of the outside obvious bowl and blast your way into the cave. Finishing at the central big flake inside the top of the roof. Sharp, tensiony, thuggey goodness.

Daniel Razzino

Start as for Red Hood's Revenge, climbing into the reverse of Bane to exit the cave and blast up and right to finish as for Electric Bat Mobile. An undoubtably worthy villain for the Bat

Start laying down at the entrance to the cave. Take the 2 shit low holds and a beasty toe hook. Load your self up like a spring and then release. Hold the cut loose and don't dab! Finish as for 'got the blinkers on'

Start matched on small crimp 1m L of ZZ. Shoot to crimp in the roof. From here, the hands follow only the thin crack until you reach the catch hold from the ICCCY dyno. Link into ZZ to finish and top out. Easier variations likely exist where the hands deviate from the thin crack. FA used only the crack for hands.

Stand-start as for “Glen's V4” heading to the ball/pinch, then traverse left, across the arch- blasting up to a line of ming’in slopes. Finish up left with a high spicy mantle. The holds after the ball/pinch on Glen’s V4 are not in.

Links the start of "These aren't the jugs you are looking for" into the crux of Tuscan Raider - slightly easier than TR.

Start on big undercling, head straight out through roof on some small holds. Finish with a real mantle. Powerful, techy, steep and poopy - it's got it all.

Sit start as for NC on the left side looking out of the cave. Blast along the lip on the left to a stopper Steep Crux. Top out on buckets above next to the small tree. The only line that can escape the cave

This brutal and sustained tendon destroyer features some of the sharpest and thinnest crimpers on the cliff. Step onto the L side of the large blank wall to the L of EF. Follow the line of bolts up the face to the top.

5m R of SS. Up slab (3 FH ) then roof and overhang.

Begin off the big cheese Boulder right of LAMOP. The striking ceiling arete. Finish as for Dr Pepper

Start up Saxicoline then sneak under and around the lip out onto the main face. Traverse out left along seam, then head straight up the right-hand set of bolts through fantastic climbing with some long moves on the head wall. This is a crag classic and must do at the grade.

Like the great man, it's a journey that keeps you engaged right to the anchors. Climb 'One Eyed Undertaker' and exit top of crux into the small corner on the left. Head on up blunt arete to chains. Shown as route 19 on the old ACAQ route database topo: http://www.climb.org.au/upload2/1038.jpg.

Long standing project.

Sit starts with lowest possible LH and RH pinch/undercling on the far left of the cave just in front of the tree. Straight up on some slopey features to finish on good flake. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SmlJrDgmUC0 - beta video @ 1.51min

Start for the V8, trending up and left into the the large Pocket jug of the V6.

Located on right wall as you enter area (look for obvious chalky hueco). Sit start with under cling and small edge, move into the hueco and good edge then head straight up to mantel and finish standing over the lip (you can top out if you want, but its pretty overgrown and add nothing to the grade or quality). Awesome tension moves on good holds and rock.

Gold Coasts hardest open project boulder problem that exists so far. The sit start to “The Golden Hour”. Adds a number of extremely difficult long moves. The top out is v4- do it for the full tick.

Sit start on jugs formed by the crack. Traverse right on tough holds into the start of “Déjà Hues” and top out as this. Was sent by a visiting comp climber at V8/9, 5 years ago- sand height dependant.

Hope you have been training your crimp strength on 8mm’s. Squat start on the left side of the bloc, matched on low recognizable crimp rail, now traverse leftwards into “8 months of Winter”. Finish as this.

Strong stand start- up the twin seams, trending left to the vertical slot. Powerful pulls, to an airy mantle out.

Sit start on poor left rail, up on crimps, sidepulls and jugs to the left. One of the best hard lines on the Granite Belt.

Just like the visionary alpinist himself, Wild, bold and technical, on some of Donnellys best rock.

Great featured corner and arete to navigate across and up.

Hard moves through the seam grants you with a huge jug. Tough on the feet and fingers. Just plain tough.

Tough exit off a difficult face. Grade needs confirmation.

Stand start with obvious good sloper LH and RH pencil thin crimp. Punchy move up, then long, reachy moves up the high face.

Stand start on the decent but hard to use hold on the arete. Slap up the rails to the top.

To the left of Pink Bits. Stand start with LH fang and RH sidepull. A very long move up and leftwards! Very reach dependant. * Has not been repeated since two large flakes have been removed*

Stand start with use of the detached rock, with high crimps and figure out the puzzle up the cool cracked, bulgy face to a committing, intense mantle. Thoughtful stacking of pads are needed for the tilted landing.

Start in the small gully, matched low on the rail. Move up to a row of crimps and throw to the lip and mantle to top.

Oliver Rickford

Kieran Pates

Start as low as possible on the beautiful arete feature. Up and right to a tough top out. Some holds have broken since the first ascent - it was originally graded V7

packs a hell of a punch for a short climb, feels like bouldering. start with the first 2 bolts clipped in, long stick clip required to reach the second.

Still a project, Thin and wild. Shares the last two bolts and anchor of Deer Hallucinations.

Prepare your tendons. Your gonna have a bad time if you clip the bolts for Chicken Crimpys, stick to the right bolts

Start at the base of the roof on a big jug and out to the big jug on lip. Drop off here - though it could be linked into "Nick's Stolen Roof Top".

Start as Holy Matrimony and then follow the line of pockets across the roof to a tricky crux. Out the cave via jugs to a committing mantle.

Sit start, climb to the lip with some fun and big movements traverse right then topping out above the other boulder. Tricky to spot and pad the top-out. Previously undocumented but named 'Cameron's v7' which was the same line although didn't top out it just walked off on the other boulder, seen in the Due North climbing video by SB. Found and climbed with top-out by Andy Lampard.

SS up arete.

Sit start crossed on diagonal crimps. Make your way left and up on a series of diagonal edges and an underling.

Sit start with slopey edge low on arete and the hold just above big undercling. Slap slap slap and finish as for the stand start.

Start in the corner, move left and finish up arete. Trust those feet!

Start on set of small crimps, traverse left through big moves on good edges, then finish as for Tadpole.

Start low on the arete and on lowest good edge in the steep, compress your way through the sickness to glory.

Crouch start on crimps, campus up and move left through edges and a pinch before throwing for the jug. Stunner!

The extension to Intuition. Start ~2m underneath roof with good undercut edges above the freestanding boulder below. Using this boulder for feet, move through series of edges on roof to gain the sloping lip. Traverse L through crux into -and finish - as for Intuition.