Routes in Queensland for selected grade

Funky climbing out of the tube.

Easy starting in the hueco.

Layaway crack/flake. May be full of wasps.

Vague arete

Straight up the blocky face

Round arete just left of the bush

Even shorter but still fun.

Stand start with positive crimp.

Easy slab at right hand side of rock.

Sit start Lh undercling, Rh side pull. Up the arete.

Sit start juggy feature on the right arete.

Doubles as the descent route

Up the fun ocean ripped slab to conclude with an even better slide down the slab.

Oliver Rickford

Grass top, lots of juggy ledges (I say lots, but just for the length of the route, maybe 4?). Found on the first small outcrop left of sanditos.

Step off the big stone around the corner to the right to access easy line up the end of the wedge.

Sit start matched on large slopy jug, shoot to the top

Sit start right side of boulder, move up and traverse left to boulders a nice mantle.

The ledge the boulder is perched on is not in. Sit start with high jugs.

After a long week without climbing due to injury, addicted climbers start suffering Climbing Deprivation. After going with his friends to the crag to just belay and take pictures the subject develops Climbing Deprivation Anxiety Disorder. The symptoms include palpitations or pounding heart, accelerated heart rate, sweating, trembling or shaking, dry mouth (not due to medication or dehydration), trying to mentally on-sight a 25, and falling. The only apparent cure for this disorder is to find an easy nearby climb to solo. At Black Stump, this is it.

Easy and dirty climb. A few nice hand jambs and back footing and you are on the ledge. From there, take some pictures of your girlfriend doing a real climb or your friends struggling to clean Little Wednesday. Then chimney up and top out to clean one of your friend's climbs and at least feel you did something productive for the day. If a 7 is too hard for your injury, then change your sneakers and get your climbing shoes.

Since it was my only climb in a whole week I might be overselling it. It's probably (definitely) an awful climb not worth doing.

Sit start to mantle

Squat start on large rail to top out

Sit start on arête, straight up to mantle.

Up the corner, all blocks are in. Awkward trad-style bumbling up the corner. Probably similar to a Ewbank 8 or so.

Start on the low side pull. Using the crimp rails, traverse left through the slots and jugs then finish at the end of the wall on the juggy pocket.

Stand start hands on the juggy ledge, climb up and to the right of the tree at the top before topping out above the tree.

Start to the left of The Smell of Chai Chalk in the obvious crack feature. climb up and to the right finishing at the tree.

Sit start, up to the undercling then mantle.

Sit start with hands in the slanting rail. Pull on and up.

Traverse left to right, starting up Do Not Shit In The Woods, to first bolt, follow easy line across about halfway up the cliff, then trend upwards to anchors on Brazil. Clip a bolt on each climb as you go.

Start directly opposite 'Midnight Makeout' on 'Owl Pillar'.

Up juggy groove then slab to finish at ledge.

Start 6m R of 'Acid' at the entrance to the ravine.

Juggy slab route with little protection. Rap from ledge with tree or continue up short wall to exit.

Marked 'CGA'. Pretty standard juggy climbing up to ledge, through mini rooflet, then up face crack above.

Start as for 'Ballsup', then bridge up the shallow chimney on the L using many big jugs.

Marked 'NL'. A reasonable line which lacks the bomber pro of some of the other climbs.

Start 2m L and immediately R of gully. Up onto small ledge, then into crack with bomber gear to bulge. Either through bulge, or to avoid loose blocks, traverse R and finish up 'Butterfree'. Rap off tree.

Up the right side of the slab. Also the downclimb.

Stand start slab and head up topping out to the right.

Stand start bottom right hand corner and then move left. Some cool moves. Also the downclimb.

Straight up the left arete.

Stand start on jugs and climb over the ledge.

Sit start. Next line to the left of BPT. Work way up the side pulls and top out.

Sit start. Work way up side pull crack. Top out. Yell at those too cool for leg ropes.

Sit start. Easy climbing straight up the arete to a top out.

2m right of PLE. Sit start. More easy climbing up another prominent arete.

Start as for FO but trend diagonally left on juggy holds to finish on CP.

Mildly tricky sit start, but then straight up the face on very good holds.

Climb directly the outer most ridge which gradually travels to the left before topping out.

Sit start on the left side on large hold, straight up.

Sit start on the right hand side on good hold, straight up.

Sit start with both hands in the smile on the right side of the boulder. Go up.

Sit start on the left hand side of the boulder. Follow the juggy arete up.

Sit start up the crack.

Left side of boulder. Sit start to good holds

Stand start as though you've just stood up from the sit start of hobbit hole. Move up and over the nose but this time you can use features to the left of the seam crack.

Nice easy warm up boulder, sit start facing out of the chasm hands on side pulls right foot wide and left foot tucked in. Pull up and work your way up the arête. Stay out of the crack as much as possible and don't use the boulder on the right side of the crack. Finish standing on the ledge, aka Poseidon's Perch.

Up the slab from a stand

Stand start up the slab.

Sit start then up the slightly loose flake. Be careful. The downclimb

Right corner of wall, next to log

Great kiddie climb

A fun 100m long traverse in an incredible location.

Start at the entry of the obvious deep ravine, climb 2m up the RHS arete and keep traversing right, keeping 1 to 2.5m high all the way to the manky end of the wall, going through some interesting overhanging moves.

The rock is crumbling in places on the surface so look for big holds.

What goes around, comes back around down this way to- literally this is the down climb for this bloc. The furtherest left line, stand start hands matched on right tending mini corner and straight up the ledges to a easy mantle.