Routes in Queensland for selected grade

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Showing all 52 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
South East Sunshine Coast Brooyar Point Pure
32 'Di brenender mushi fon mordor' Open Project

Climb the flaming vag of mordor to the off width of RP then blast straight back right into a thin pebble belt. Next is a huge dyno then some blankness going right. At this point it could keep going towards pebble or straight up to anchor right of reverse psych. Hard to know at this point. Bloody hard

Set by Daniel Gordon, Damo Rua & Alex Turnbull, Sep 2012

SportProject 17m, 6
31 The flaming vag of mordor

Start up the bolts to the right of Reverse Psychology. Linking into RP after the 4th bolt following thin seam. Hard!!!

Set by Daniel Gordon, Damo Rua & Alex Turnbull, Sep 2012

FFA: Sam Bowman, 6 Oct 2014

Sport 15m, 5
South East Sunshine Coast Glasshouse Mountains Mt Tibrogargan Caves Route Sector
30 - 33 The Cave 3 project (Asimov) (OPEN)

OPEN PROJECT - the line directly up the guts of cave 3. Heads up through the roof and then out onto the steep headwall to finish standing on the ledge. Will be hard!!

Set by Dan Gordon, Sam Bowman & Jonathon Schwartz, Aug 2014

Mixed tradProject 8m, 7
South East Sunshine Coast Mt Coolum
29 - 31 Hang High Project

Climbs the smooth wall straight above Fruit Bat. Closed, stay off.

Set by Frey Yule, 2010 & Matt Schimke, 2011

SportProject 30m, 12
31 Bring Back The Kneebar

Climb AKTF then keep going for another 3 bolts. Make sure you use long draws on AKTF otherwise the rope drag is just enough to make the end move easy.

FFA: Matt Eaton, 2009

Sport 16m, 8
31 UFO

Even better than the original line!! The direct start of Kneebar. Extremely bouldery and powerful compression climbing which will make you beg for mercy!

Set by Sam Bowman, Daniel Gordon & antoine moussette, 9 Dec 2013

FA: Sam Bowman, 23 Dec 2013

Sport 14m, 7
31 Flying saucer (project open)

Go from UFO all the way through to bring back the kneebar. Gonna be hard and funky.

Set by Dan g & Matt Eaton

SportProject 15m, 9
31 Esoteric Agenda

Mat Eaton's futuristic Line. One of the king lines of Coolum; it follows the line of ring bolts then climbs into the cave to the lower off anchors.

Set by Matt Eaton & Sebastian Lowenstein, 2007

FA: Dan Mackay, 16 Jul 2017

Sport 19m, 9
32 Esoteric Panties

Start with the boulder problem of Evil. After the hard clip go left across a series of bulges. After some intricate betas and a few kneebars, you link into Esoteric Agenda under the top crux. Finish as per EA.

Epic power endurance test piece. One of the purest pieces of climbing in QLD for chur.

Set by Dan Gordon & Alexander Turnbull, 4 Jan 2020

FA: Khosro Hashemzadeh, 30 May 2020

Sport 20m, 14
31 Evil Business

Start up Thiller, climb across to 'Bite The Hand That Feeds' and to the chains.

FFA: Paul Cresswell, 7 Jun 2015

Sport 19m
31 Sam's link

Up Thriller till the second last bolt and then step right into friction addictions hard ending. Super pumpy classic.

FA: Sam Bowman, Oct 2014

Sport 20m
32 Friction Addiction

Was previously known as 'Motor Finance Wizard project' Start up the first two bolts of Evil before heading right and up the blankish face. Huge throws on slopey holds guard the crux. The top is exciting and ever so pumpy.

FA: Matt Schimke, 2011

FFA: Sam Bowman, 9 Mar 2014

Sport 23m, 11
31 Bite The Hand That Feeds

4m R of Evil Wears No Pants. Futuristic. Two hard boulder problems to classic upper wall.

FFA: Lee Cujes, 2010

Sport 23m, 10
31 Colosseum

Start-up Gladiator, after the crux, climb leftwards on to Taking Care of Business variation, at last jug enjoy a hard low traverse left into the crimpy ending Friction Addiction. This route is fantastic with a great mix of climbing and is a classic link-up well worth doing.

FFA: Sebastian Loewensteijn

Set by Radest, frey yule & Sebastian

FA: Sebastian Loewensteijn, 5 Nov 2017

Sport 18m, 7
South East Brisbane Toohey Forest Main area Chug
V10 Gone for Borneo


South East Brisbane White Rock Conservation Area Pappy’s Blocs
V9/10 Project

Start under the huge bulge and make a long move to a decent hueco, supporting crimps will get you in to position for the tiny face crimp over the bulge, from there make a huge move to a decent crimp on the face and continue crimping powerfully until victory jugs await you.

BoulderProject 6m
South East Brisbane White Rock Conservation Area Little White Rock Antiquity area
V10 Antique Road Show

Sit-start on barely there holds, moving left into mono's and finish on jug below ferns.

FFA: sam bowman, 10 Mar 2015

Boulder 4m
South East Brisbane White Rock Conservation Area Slab Land
V9/10 No Mans Land Low

Start in a sit start- with the obvious large side pull and bust some incredibley powerful moves that lack footholds into No Mans Land.

Set by JSBC, 17 Aug 2019

BoulderProject 3m
South East Brisbane White Rock Conservation Area SuperHard to Miss
V10 When Pigs Fly

Start sitting, then move up the crack before moving right on some small edges to get to the lip. Be careful mantling out.

FA: Sam Bowman, 12 Aug 2015

Boulder 3m
South East Brisbane White Rock Conservation Area SuperHardToFind Wall Main wall
V10 Megaston (Time's up direct)

Start in obvious low pocket, head up and right past sloper and finish just left of times up.

FFA: Sam bowman, 24 Apr 2015

Boulder 4m
V9/10 Bigfoot (Sasquatch Direct)

Start at low break, then up to slopey rail, huck to gaston pocket over lip and finish as for 'Sasquatch'.

FA: Oct 2020

BoulderProject 4m
South East Brisbane White Rock Conservation Area Tatooine
V10 Smouldering Jawas

Rad sit-start on block under roof to small undercling, then punch to to cool looking flake. Sooo bloody awesome and burly. Make sure you have a fair few pads.

Used to be the Jango fett project, but our authenticity checks clarified that Jango was never actually on tatooine we think. Unless he went there on a holiday at some point, but seriously who would go to mos eisley for a holiday, so it's kind of unlikely.

FFA: Sam Bowman, 13 Mar 2015

Boulder 3m
South East Brisbane Cedar Creek Below the Swimming Hole Boulder 2
V10 Hard arete

Good start hold, up to thin crimps, ooze up to arete and then top.

Boulder 2m
South East Brisbane Cedar Creek Titanic Area
V10 Titanic Direct

Sit start at L end of Titanic boulder face, finish straight up.

Boulder 3m
South East Brisbane Terrors Creek
V10 - 13 Open Project

This was previously ‘Kiss My Witness’. It would appear that holds have broken and this boulder is now an open project.

Start with both hands on low incut rail. Follow obvious break straight up and finish as for ‘Silent Witness'

V10 The Rack

Absolute cracker of a one move wonder. Start on incut edge in middle of wall. Do a big move to good edge, match, then finish up an easy mantle (as for 'Kiss the Witness'). Definitely harder for those challenged in the ways of the span.

FA: Sam Bowman, 22 May 2020

South East Brisbane Plunkett Conservation Park Ricochet Ridge The Good, the Bad and the Ugly
V10 Falling birds

start with both hands on the lowest sloping jug then go strait up through some very bad pockets and crimps very committing line with horrible landing bring lots of pads

BoulderProject 4m
South East Brisbane Plunkett Conservation Park Ridgy Didge Area Two cities boulder
V10 A tale of two cities

Super crimper! Start right hand and heel on the sandy flake and left hand on the good crimp. Punch your way up through some bad crimps and spring into a glory jug to finish. Please don’t brush the sandy right start self to much it needs to be sealed. it’s endlessly sandy and with out it the problem may be impossible.

FFA: sam bowman, 23 Sep 2018

Boulder 4m
South East Brisbane Plunkett Conservation Park Goliath sector Goliath
V10 Magic v9 - 10 PROJECT

super hard route made harder by the height, start on crimps just over lip of rooflet, hard move moving onto headwall, followed by some serious crimping.

Boulder 7m
South East Scenic Rim Frog Buttress East of the access track
32 Whistling Kite

An amazing, proud, inspirational line. The thinnest of cracks bisects this imposing face. Even the ants at Frog fall off this thin face! There was some controversy over the decidedly French style of the FFA, but no one can question the talent and skill required to ascend such an amazing line. Bolts and small wires can be found.

FA: Paul Smith, 1988

Mixed trad 30m, 3
South East Scenic Rim Flinders Peak (limited access) The Secret Cave
32 Astrobatics

Mega extension of 'Event Horizon'. After the last draw of 'Event Horizon' head right across cheese blocks and then continue right and then up the compact head wall.

Set by Sam Bowman & Johnny Schwartz, Feb 2016

FFA: Sam bowman, Mar 2016

Sport 25m, 14
31 - 33 Mars Attacks Project - Open Project

Climb desperado and keep trucking left into the hard end crux of astrobatics.

32 - 34 The Salty Fries Project (Open)

Starts the same as Desparado but continues straight up the head wall when Desparado breaks left. Some very hard movies on good rock.

Set by Sam Bowman, Johnny Schwartz, Blake Stringer & Dan Gordon, Nov 2016

SportProject 25m, 14
South East Scenic Rim Mt May Super Insanity Wall
V10 Crooks And Castles

Sit start down low on big flake feature. Head straight out then left on some slopey features to finish as for H.C.

FA: Simon Moses

Boulder 4m
South East Scenic Rim The Mushroom
32 Kim's Project

Un-climbed open project. FH on the main face lead the way up a slightly over hanging, blank looking face, following a faint seam feature. No DBB.

SportProject 15m
South East Scenic Rim The Pulpit (private land) Back Wall
32 The Singularity

Ringbolted line of most resistance. The kneebar on Pretender is out.

FA: Lee Cujes, 2009

Sport 17m
32 The Don

An epic five year battle, achieved by a 50yo Duncan Steel.

FA: Duncan Steel, 2011

Sport 20m
31 Shadenfreude

Bouldery sequence on undercuts and small crimps.

FA: Lee Cujes, 2008

Sport 14m
31/32 Vicious Wishes

Links Beautiful Thing into the business of Shadenfreude via a 5 move sequence, avoiding the rest at Mugwump's rooflet.

FFA: Lee Cujes, 25 Apr 2012

Sport 7
31 Below The Belt

Beastly into One Hit. Biggest endurance challenge in the state.

FA: Lee Cujes, 2009

Sport 30m
South East Gold Coast North Burleigh Bouldering
V10 Solid Gold

Gold Coasts hardest open project boulder problem that exists so far. The sit start to “The Golden Hour”. Adds a number of extremely difficult long moves. The top out is v4- do it for the full tick.

South East Granite Belt Donnelly's Castle
V10 The Brain

Start on poor rail then big move up to slot, then to victory jug.

FA: Oliver Miller, 2011

V10 Dirty Action

Start as for 'The Big Zee', then head right and up on crimps and slopers. It's excellent. Fingery and powerful.

FA: Oliver Miller, Jan 2012

V10 Strong Geoff

Hard bouldery sit start on pinches. Links into '#53'

FA: Strong Geoff, 2009

Central Bowen Horseshoe Bay North Side Beach Side
V8 - 11 King of the Ming project

Sit start in big groove and then make your way out of the overhang on cool groove features and then some very small holds at the lip. Looks possible but who knows.

BoulderProject 3m
Central Bowen Horseshoe Bay North Side Bat Cave
V9/10 Kendra's Roof

The extension to "Kendra's Roof", continuing past the mushroom via a roof crux and then up a desperate slab above the terrifying drop away landing.

Set by Spenser Tang Smith

FFA: Andy Lampard, Jul 2016

Central Bowen Murray Bay Mango Boulder
V9/10 The Great Mango Heist

FFA: Andy Lampard

North Townsville Harveys Marbles The Inner Circle The Lower Terrace
V9/10 Bug Piss Project

An outstanding hard line.

North Townsville Harveys Marbles The Inner Circle The Stack
V10 Globalisation Right

Sit start just R of "Globalisation Left" on the low edge. One of Harvey's hardest problems. See the guidebook for the starting holds.

FA: Nick Larsen, 2007

Boulder 4m
North Townsville Frederick Peak area North Sentinel Fishbowl
31 Manic Direct

FFA: Steven Ioannou, 18 Jun 2016

North Townsville Frederick Peak area South Sentinel Supernova Wall
32 300

Townsville's first 5.14! The king reigns supreme.

FFA: Steven Ioannou, 5 Aug 2018

Sport 50m
31 Transcend

Next level effort! The extension to Transcontinental, climb that route and keep cranking.

FFA: Steven Ioannou, 13 May 2018

Sport 35m

Showing all 52 routes.

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