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Chug

  • Grade context: AU
  • Photos: 1
  • Ascents: 677
  • Aka: Plum Boulder

Seasonality

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Access issues inherited from Toohey Forest

'Toohey Forest' is owned by the Brisbane City Council. It's an important habitat for 400 plants and animals, and is very popular with walkers, joggers and picnicking families. Therefore the usual rules of taking out your rubbish, keeping noise to a minimum, cleaning any chalk marks and so on are particularly important here if climbing is to remain an acceptable activity in the eyes of the community.

Approach

The large boulder just downhill from the 'Unleash the Dancer Boulder'.

Routes

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Grade Route

A short, punchy problem. Sit start with your L hand on one of the high sidepulls, and your right hand on a low crimp and pounce. You may need to dig out your footers under the leaves!

FA: Alex Mougenot, Apr 2020

Traverse up the L arête and traverse L

Improbably blunt arete. Start on good R ledge and undercling up using L edges and high slopers. Harder for short persons.

FA: Geoff

Start R sidepull up to L hold and mantle out on slopers

Start with L on positive gaston and right on sidepull. Big throw to lip and mantle.

Start bunched on low edges, aiming for high sidepulls and mantle

Start on good undercling, straight up and mantle. The first ascent of this problem was done by Mr Rick White in the mid 1970s. Respect!

Set by Rick White

Links 'Gone for Borneo' into If the 'If the Shoe Slips'

FA: Oliver Miller, 24 Aug 2011

???

Start on sidepull to slopers, to good hold and out to left

Right pinch on the bulge, up with left and then tenuous mantle

Start on good holds on prominent bulge under and to the L of the high ferns.

Start R of 'Groovy' and straight up to ferns using small holds and crappy ridge and L, finishing at 'Groovy'.

Start at Groover, then traverse right across slopers and top out to the right of the ferns. Looks impossible, but believe!

FA: Alexander Mougenot, Aug 2020

Start L of Chopsticks on cobble to get to large L sidepull and crimpers for R hand. Mantle and find large hold before traversing carefully around the fern to the R.

Sit start on sloper/pinch, L up to sloper and continue on up. Top out any way you like.This is an eliminate which does not use the big flake/slopey jug hold on the right. Everything else is in

Traverse L to R starting at Spork layaway and traversing all the way to Funk arete to top out. This traverse can also be done R to L and is slightly harder. "There and Back Again" begins below Funk Arete, does the R-L traverse to the Spork layaway, then returns L-R all the way back again to finish up Funk Arete. V8/grade 29 (maybe harder with the broken hold). With 30 odd moves more of a route than a boulder problem!

Sitstart as low as you desire under blunt arete, up and L to awesome rail, top out.

Pull up, slap to large sidepull then throw for bulbous sloper and mantle. For 4 Vermin points instead, crank directly straight up to the bulb.

Start on good right sidepull, up and bounce across L to rail, then top out straight up or up R.

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