Unleash the Dancer Boulder

  • Grade context: AU
  • Photos: 4
  • Ascents: 960
  • Aka: Area B



Access issues inherited from Toohey Forest

'Toohey Forest' is owned by the Brisbane City Council. It's an important habitat for 400 plants and animals, and is very popular with walkers, joggers and picnicking families. Therefore the usual rules of taking out your rubbish, keeping noise to a minimum, cleaning any chalk marks and so on are particularly important here if climbing is to remain an acceptable activity in the eyes of the community.


The obvious overhang and wall on the right (facing downhill) as you arrive at the 'Main Area'.


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Sit start next to large sidepulls, using crimps and crappy small slopers to good hold at crack.

Stand start. Small sidepulls up to crimpers and good holds at the top. Brush the footholds at mid-height if you value dry underpants.

Sit start L of Nun's Vagina on the crimp rail beneath the small rooflet, then bust out left and up. Going straight up the blunt arête will be contrived, hard, and fun!

Sit start straight up crack using both sides.

Sit start near large starting jugs, near crack. Throw to ledge to the R. Set up for layback up high to the small L hold. Moving up slightly to the R for top out.

FA: Bruce Taylor

Start as for HRIL, moving the RH up to the lip and then the LH to the (now broken) high side pull. Continue straight up for a more pleasant final top out than HRIL, using only small face holds to the right of the Nun's crack.

FA: Iain Hunter, 20 Nov 2021

Start on the crystally, sloper-crimps with feet on the gravelly shelf, then power up through gritty slopers to the ledge. Sharp, short, and nuggety goodness.

FA: Alex Mougenot, Apr 2020

There may be a gem buried beneath the moss ...

Start bunched in low break. Out to lip and throw right for decent hold.

Start on the cobble under the roof. After a dynamic RH move from the crimp rail to a good hold on the lip, smack your LH up to the sloper. A difficult mantle makes the send feel hard-earned yet satisfying. Aptly named for the sharpness of the holds.

Start as for Unleash the Dancer Within and traverse L the whole way, topping out at Smoke and Mirrors.

FA: simon moses

Traverse the entire lip of Unleash the Dancer boulder from right to left. Start as for V2 Traverse, finish as for Smoke and Mirrors. This is essentially Fat Man Traverse with an easier start.


Start as for unleash the dancer and finish up the fat mat traverse. A nice more sustained variant with a bit of a sting in its tail.

Start as for unleash the dancer, but instead of heading left get a high heel hook and blast straight up.

FA: Bryson Klein, 11 Jun 2020

Start under roof on undercling. Long throw with right to jug at lip. Aim for high left pocket or straight up.

Start as for 7 Short Traverse until before the widest part of the rail, and go up via a high small left hand sloper.

Start on the right, traverse across on good rails and head halfway across the lip via a cool pocket above the largest part of the lip.

Start on right, finish up #4.


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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Simon Carter

Date: 2018

ISBN: 9780958079068

A few years ago there was basically Frog Buttress and Coolum. Since then there has been more development than Barangaroo and South East Queensland should be on any climbers radar no matter what your style. Except ice climbing, definitely no ice climbing. But over 1250 routes with hard sport, multipitches and quality trad to make a great trip.

Author(s): Jimmy Blackhall & David Jefferson

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9377779499658

Hidden within the ordinary people of Queensland there exists a tight-knit community of scabby knuckles, grazed knees, massive forearms and iron-clad wills. This guidebooks seeks to shed light on this community and blocks of choice with all the information, skills and knowledge to open the door for you to explore all the bouldering that Queensland has to offer.

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