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Cave Routes

7

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Description

50% slab below, 50% cave and overhanging headwall. If it weren't for all the loose and rotting rock (the former now mostly removed) this 20 m cliff would hold more promise.

Access issues inherited from Sewer Wall

Rock climbing and abseiling are permitted only outside the period 01 June to 31 December when raptors are breeding.

Development of the ACT's Second Electricity Supply substation began in 2019 and has cut-off the 4WD access that was previously listed in the 2014 guidebook PDF. The only current approach is a 20 minute hike (see below).

Approach

The cave routes are about halfway between Septic Sector and Sewer Wall, although start from a high ledge that can be accessed either by walking from the bottom to the base of Sewer Wall then up the ramp and scrambling to the ledge, or by following a faint trail coming sharply right from the track down (from the Cave Routes tree described in the main approach section), crossing the top of TPWP & BT3EF, and continuing down to the starting ledge.

Alternatively the rap in from the top, using the great, big, healthy tree as an anchor, is much faster and easier.

Four single hangers have been placed across the ledge around the start of routes to secure the belayer (& hang gear from) - although the ledge IS stable, they're just there for comfort & school groups.

A significant amount of rotten rock exists in this area. While the bolts appear to be in good rock and every obvious hand- and foot-hold has been pushed, pulled, kicked & pried to ensure it's sound you might spy a hold we didn't & get a surprise - so be mindful of this and take care of your rope and belayer.

History

History timeline chart

Established 2014 by Chris Bennetts-Cash and Caleb Baker. Access notes updated by Andrew Davies in May 2015.

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Routes

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Grade Route

Follow DTS but head up when you're on the tree ledge rather than traversing right to cross a rooflet. Move right (crux) to meet 4th bolt of WNWN.

FA: Chris Bennetts-Cash, Mar 2014

Start from the 4th (right) belay bolt, moving up then traversing left before going up again and traversing right (crux) after the 3rd bolt to meet the 3rd bolt of Gas Mask & finish up GM or WNWN.

FA: Chris Bennetts-Cash, Mar 2014

Start from either 3rd or 4th (right) belay bolt, passing 1st bolt of Drank The Slab and following the parallel left-leaning cracks on good micro RPs to 3rd bolt of DTS. Finish up GM or WNWN.

FA: Chris Bennetts-Cash, Mar 2014

Follow Gas Mask to the 3rd bolt then move left around the cave roof to another bolt (14) and continue up and left to the leftmost DBB.

FA: Caleb Baker, Feb 2014

Easily up trending right starting from the 3rd (right) belay bolt.

The 3rd bolt is an easy reach up from the cave.

Crank through the roof, staying as far right as you dare, then up the headwall (move right then heel hook left) to the middle DBB.

Named for a wonderful smell that was blowing in from the sewage plant when I finally freed the headwall (solo).

FA: Chris Bennetts-Cash, Mar 2014

2m left of first (rightmost) belay bolt. Head up and right on solid holds until you reach the vertical wall. Heel hook over it and walk up to DBB.

A variant finish probably exists up the crack system, not yet climbed.

A variant, slabby, start can be made from the 2nd belay bolt.

FA: Chris Bennetts-Cash, Mar 2014

Starts 1 m right of the rightmost of the four belay bolts. Crux is the boulder problem start, which is easier for the tall. Very high first bolt, followed by delightful moves up to bolts and anchor shared with Better Out Than In. Named for a big flake that turned out to be loose and hit the route setter in the face on their first outing.

Set: Chris Bennetts-Cash, 2014

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