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White Rocks

  • Grade context: AU
  • Photos: 9
  • Ascents: 929
  • Aka: Wickerslack Crag
23

Seasonality

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Summary

Good holds, easy angle and a reasonable amount of gear makes for a pleasant top-roping and trad practice area.

Description

A small limestone crag - unusual for the ACT - just outside Queanbeyan and along the river. Unlike some limestone rocks, this crag tends more towards large horizontal breaks than pocketed climbs.

While generally used for top-roping and learning to place gear, there are several more serious climbs, particularly the slab which is growing more polished by the year.

No details of first ascents or proper names have been recorded.

Dries quickly after rain. Good sun for winter mornings and shade for summer evenings.

2018 CCA guide

Access issues inherited from Australian Capital Territory

If you have benefited from climbing access and infrastructure in the ACT, please consider joining the Canberra Climbing Association (CCA). The CCA spends considerable behind-the-scenes time and effort managing access for the climbing community to ACT climbing areas.

Membership is inexpensive and provides a great way to keep up-to-date with access issues, codes of conduct and general goings on in the ACT climbing community. Membership also provides discounts for local outdoor retail and climbing gyms.

For CCA details visit: http://www.canberraclimbing.org.au/

Approach

Option 1

Park 0.5km down Wickerslack Lane at a layby on the left (roughly opposite 44 Wickerslack Lane). Walk north-east along a trail bike track, which swings right (downhill) to the Pipeline Track. Cross this and continue straight down the ridge. At the cleared area, don't turn left on the main track - keep heading straight down the ridge until you reach some jutting rocks. This is the top of the cliff. Access steps to the left. 15 minute walk.

Option 2

Drive through Queanbeyan down Old Cooma Road, past Karabar shops and turn left down Barracks Flat Drive. Two km down this turn left into Doeberl Place. Park at the end of the cul de sac. Space for about two cars.

Climb over the gate and walk along a rough vehicle track to a gravel road (Lime Quarry Track). Cross the road, avoid the logs, keep walking sourh to join another gravel road beside Googong Water Main (Pipeline Track). Walk south-east along Pipeline Track past two buildings, up onto the next ridge, then turn left. Follow the track straight down the ridge. Don't turn left off the ridge when you get to the cleared area - keep going straight, following cairns. Look for some jutting rocks, this is the top of the crag. Access steps to the left. 25 min walk.

Cliff can be found at GPS coords -35.3818,149.2475

Some content has been provided under license from: © Canberra Climbers' Association (CC BY-SA)

Routes

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Grade Route

Start 4m right of Fizz. Enjoyable climbing up cracks and ledges to the anchor bolts.

Start 1m right of Soda Pop. Climb the left-facing corner for a couple of metres then straight up the cracks.

Start 1m right of Lemonade. Straight up the crack. The crux is getting into the wide crack at the start, and is poorly protected. A #3 camalot may help if you can place it, otherwise probably better to top-rope this one. Alternative start: up Fizz then step left into the wide crack.

Start 3m right of Peroxide Power. Climb the shallow chimney, then cracks and grooves.

Start 5m right of Baby Arete at the twin shallow cracks. Climb the steep wall to the anchor bolts. Technical and sustained for 10m.

The easiest climb at White Rocks. Start about 2m right of the gully. Climb the arete, generally on the right side. The climbing finishes after about 11m on a ledge below a fixed runner that gives a great view of climbers struggling on The Roof. Top-rope using anchors above The Roof with the climber's rope threaded through the fixed runner.

In many ways shorter than its 13 metres would lead you to believe, this route starts up an easy grade 9 arete, then becomes much steeper, moving out over a rooflet with little to do with your feet for the first move or two but paste them to the limestone and grunt your way up.

If you're feeling exceptionally lazy, you can just walk up the grass slope and completely ignore the arete! Bolt recently moved down so it's below, rather than above the crux. Ringbolt lower-offs. Update 2013-08: Lower bolt has had the hanger stolen, sole bolt is at the crux

In many ways harder than the Roof RH variant, this route involves climbing up the left arete (again, this is not hard climbing and could probably be ignored) then heading right from there and up through the roof. More smearing/oppositional holds required, and a little more skill and strength. This is also harder to protect than the Roof, as the bolt is further out. However, it will take cams, as long as you don't place them where your hands need to be!

Scramble up the gully for about 9m until you are below the roof, then ascend the steep left hand corner exiting left under the roof to join Crossover at the committing step into the groove. Don't make the mistake of trying to directly climb the roof.

As for Climb A, but take a committing step out right into the next crack and then climb up.

Straight up the set of ledges immediately to the left of the roof, until you reach the two bolt belay. Plenty of spots for gear.

Start on the right side of the tiny tower, about 2m left of Intro. Steep and fingery climbing up cracks and corners to cross Intro at about half height at the base of the wide right-facing corner. Then climb flakes and edges to an awkward and committing step right into the groove below the anchor bolts. Climb the groove to the anchors. Variant: finish up Intro.

Climb the face of the precarious tower, then trend right to surmount the slab and up to the anchor bolts. Don't forget to stand on top of the tower. The crux is getting off the tower onto the slab above.

Variant: start at Crossover and climb the corner crack to join the route at the top of the tower.

Climb the corner crack left of the tiny tower. Crux is at the level of the top of the tower and requires a big reach to good holds and a foot jam. Slightly easier to climb up the wall on the left but you can't avoid the foot jam. #3 and #4 camalots are useful.

Named after the late Florin Tepes who, with Armando, spent many happy hours here introducing youngsters to the wonderful world of climbing.

Start 1 metre right of The Slab. Head up an easy right-veering crack, finishing at a two-bolt belay. Your pick as to which one!

Bolted slab. 3 bolts + wires or cams to ringbolt anchor. Only use the slab and not adjacent rock features. Starting to become very polished with time, and limestone's not the most fun stuff to slab on in the first place! Expect to slip at least once.

Bit of a contrived variant, this is essentially just a few different moves heading up the left side rather than straight up and paradoxically, if you're reasonably strong, probably the safer way to climb The Slab as there's some good oppositional holds.

A pleasant crack starting 1.5 metres left of The Slab. Nothing particularly hard or dangerous, and good gear.

A pleasant climb up the face with a few ledges and ample opportunity for gear. Start below two diagonal cracks / ledges. Trend right, with the opportunity for a bit of a layback then back left at the top through a rooflet to DBB.

Warning Flora and Fauna: Bee hive

Start 1m left of Blinky at the crack. Bridge up past a white patch, then up the slab above to two bolt belay.

Start just left of Bee Line. Head up past a nice slabby section, through the small overhang then either left or right to the DBB of Sally or Bee Line. Poor protection - use runners in Bee Line as needed.

Named after Armando's daughter. The crack at the left end of the crag. Start up Inky and move left into the crack near the white rock. Pleasant steep climbing up the crack with great jugs and one hard move near the top.

Traverse the crag from left to right. Difficulty depends entirely on how far you go, and the height at which you climb.

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