Routes as alpine in Australia

Filling in the few gaps left by the original old men. Looking down over the top at Charlie’s HB Slab there is clearly a RH finish up an incipient line. SOMB takes the direct line to this half way between HBS and Choss.

Obvious easy couloir on right side closest to access gully.

An angled climb slightly right of the chimney and separate to the main ice. Some rock involved.

Obvious easy gully line on left with various steeper exits

Obvious right facing corner with steep finish on left side of wall

A high groove exit with a thin crack below it marks this climb. Take the most direct line up to the crack and then to top,

Take the easiest line up and left to gain the high groove and the top.

Start at short right curving ice below granite nose .

Up ice and right of rock nose, gear in rock. Traverse up and right to finish in thin groove in upper rock face, rock and ice gear.

Belay of large boulder then walk off

Major steep ice flow on right leading to steep wide corner crack with ice choked finish.

Up the overhang to the right of Tree is not an Anchor, proceeding right through the slight overhangs and wettest parts of the crag, has some (non-climbable) ice forming during winter so I guess you can technically call it mixed climbing and not just dry tooling.

for Top rope solo access, you will need to create several redirects with trad gear from the natural tree anchors above.

Start off block, approximately 2m above ground/snow level, on lowest point of bluff. Follow thin broken cracks vertically and left up to sloping beautiful finger crack Traverse left across gully, over orange slab and back right up corner crack. Belay on large ledge Step left and up through break in rooflet, past old piton and easily up headwall with good gear

We found a couple of old pitons up the top and one on the route so assume at least some of this route has been climbed. If anyone has info please put forward

Start of small ledge, approximately 2m above ground/snow level, 2m right from Rusty Piton start Nice climbing up corner. Step left through rooflet onto thin slab seam. Delicate moves. Wild moves through overhang breaking left. LOOSE ROCK Awkward moves onto unprotected slab then easily to belay ledge. Traverse 5m right then up vertical fist crack, pumpy over bulge. Continue right and up orange wall on nice edges with small gear. Belay on pinnacle peak. Solo across gully and right to obvious steep crack. Few pumpy moves lead to nice slab and top out.

An excellent excursion along the ridge of the amazing Yulludunida dyke formation. More akin to walking along the back of a stegosaurus than climbing, but some parties may want to rope up for some of the more exposed sections.

40 min hike in from the car park. As soon as you breach the tree line, head right until you can’t head right anymore (sheer cliff), then follow the ridge line. Alternatively you can join the ridge earlier if you want some steeper climbing (more akin to a grade 5-6). As you ascend the walking trail head directly for the ridge as soon as you can see the rock outcropping. This is shortly after the path hits a ledge with a good lookout. You may need to do a little bush bashing.

You can avoid some of the more bouldery sections but try to keep to the highest point of the ridge to get the most out of the climb. There is a sling at the hardest down climb about ⅔ into the climb. A short 10m rope may be useful here to assist in the descent.

The walk out involves a bit of bush bashing if you follow the ridge to the end. The higher you stay in the crater the less vegetation you will encounter. Aim to zig zag along the bare rocky areas for ease of travel. Aim for 3-4 hours return at a leisurely pace.

Chimney behind the block left of route 4. A brave solo by a man hardened by domestic duties

From the Organ Pipes area follow the track left. The well worn track becomes steep until an exposed move is encountered. The fall from here would be fatal. Past this move, scramble over a series of boulders and bushes until the hiker's track is rejoined.

An excellent alternative to the Hiker's route. This route has frequent red paint marks from base to summit. A well formed downhill track starting just east from the carpark at S26.89052, E152.88797 will lead to the beginning of the route. From here scramble up easy slabs traversing towards north-west following the marks. The track then climbs straight up for the central part followed by a leftward traverse on easy slabs to a small cave before veering right and up to an exposed and highly scenic finish to the summit.

An alternate finish to this route that goes north at the top (but a bit more exposed) is mapped at https://www.google.com/maps/d/viewer?mid=1ULqnVajNBViUxVymtbjh6jbnrcM&ll=-26.89356304264415%2C152.88713100000007&z=17

Project. Obvious double arête pillar up to tree. Equipping incomplete. The whole thing may just collapse and kill me, so best you stay off it.

Follow the Peasant's Ridge track until on the main ridge before crossing the creek to peasant's ridge. Ascend this rounded ridge easily in open forest until over a knoll. Follow the pad up the crest until coming across a rocky razorback. To ascend the razorback follow the apron to the west until it becomes easy to move up on the top. Once on the razorback follow this for about an hour with some huge exposure on either sides and some spicy moves as it narrows to a sheer knife edge. At the end of the razorback a tricky descent is forced on a short slab with little holds. After the razorback the ridge widens and is heavily vegetated but easy to navigate. A second rocky tower have to be contoured on the west until the ascent is forced in a slimy corner. Good hold exist on the face to the LHS with some exposure. The final rocky outcrop is again bypassed on the left until an easy looking ramp will take you to the top of the ridge just above old hut saddle. Scramble easily to the top of east peak.

Also known as Peasant's Ridge, this is the easiest route up Mt Barney. From Yellowpinch, follow the road that follows Cronan Creek and skirts the south face. Around 4km hiking will bring you to the entrance for the trail which is clearly signposted. From there, follow the obvious track up the mountain, encountering two very minor technical difficulties at "The Slab" and "The Staircase". Eventually, you will find yourself in East-West Saddle, also known as The Rum Jungle. From here, the ascent to East Peak is relatively straightforward although vague at times. Although this is the easiest route on the mountain, it still requires a long approach and 1000m of vertical gain and loss. As such, it is often underestimated by inexperienced parties - don't go underprepared.

Walk up the road next to Cronan Creek past South Ridge trail head, until Egans Creek has been crossed, then walk another 200m. Immediately before the next creek crossing, ascend the spur on your right (marked by a star picket Nov 2022). A gentle incline on a footpad followed by some steep scrub bashing will bring you to Savages Peak. There are fantastic views from here. The route turns north and then north east towards West Peak along an enjoyable razorback outcrop and a jump over the void at the top of the rocky ridge is the highlight of this section. The ascent up West Peak is made through a narrow gully that is the crux of the route and needs to be done with care. In no time West Peak summit is reached.

Overall, Savages Knoll at the crest of this ridge and the razorback route that leads to West Peak are quite spectacular and yield some unique views of East and West Peak.

A nice day hike up the ridge starting from Yellowpinch Carpark, with the final 1km to the summit offering nice scrambling in a fantastic position. Navigational aids receommmended in case the faint track is lost, especially post-fires.

The rocky ridge directly south of Logan's ridge. It starts at a creek junction behind Yellowpinch Hill. Can be accessed by rockhopping Logan River either sides of Yellowpinch of traverse south from lower Logan's Ridge. Both approaches are long, steep and extremely vegetated. This is an off track route. Once the rocky ridge proper is reached, the scrambling is pleasant, typical Barney slabs on bomber rock. Once the ridge ends on the bottom of the east face, the summit can be reached by climbing an obvious long gully on the right side of the east face or by escaping to Logan's Ridge with a slow and scrubby traverse.

A superb scramble up an exposed rocky ridgeline. Access by walking back along the road from Yellowpinch carpark before heading into the bush towards the ridge. The scramble is more difficult and exposed the more left you stay on the ridge.

Start at Lower Portals carpark, follow the track over the first ridge to Rocky Creek. Leave the track on the left and follow a bearing SSW towards isolated creek gully. The base of the ridge has 2 distinct buttresses and the right one, to the north, has a scrambable line. The ridge is relatively open, slabby and leads over Isolated Shoulder to the summit of Isolated Peak. A cruxy buttress at half way requires careful navigation to avoid roping up and some exposure. This ridge is fairly short but more difficult than Logan's, for a comparison.

Eagle's Ridge is the longest route on Mt Barney, stretching from Lower Portals to East Peak. Follow the spur across Tom's Tum and Isolated Peak before gaining North Peak and proceeding to East Peak. Bring a rope, lots of water, a headlamp, and get ready for a big day out (something between 7 and 12 hours). A rope is not mandatory as all difficulties can be avoided. If you wish to follow the true ridge exactly as it lies, than there is a mandatory rappel off the South West side of Isolated Peak.

This ridge has clean rock all the way to the summit of the southernmost Tum, just north of Isolated Peak. The scrambling is easy with the exception of the first 40m, right at the beginning of the rock apron, where some delicate and exposed climbing is necessary to reach a lower gradient above and the ridge proper. Views of Isolated peak impressive east face are enjoyed for most part of the ridge. Once on top, Eagles ridge trail is joined. This ridge is easily approached as Isolated ridges but to the north.

Enter Barrabool creek from Barney creek. The ridge starts at the first creek intersection, in the middle of the two streams. A steep slog over scrubby and loose terrain, going through 3 distinct rocky outcrops. The first two can be either scrambled or bypassed on the RHS (west), the last one is an unavoidable dirty slab scramble with little exposure. The summit of Barrabool Peak has some spectacular but rough camp spots. The final ascent to West Peak (Mt. Barney highest point) is loose and dangerous. A faint food pad can be followed intermittently in a straight line from the saddle, aiming at a point to the left of the summit proper. Easy scrambling but very loose and steep terrain. Once on the top, veer right for a scrub bash to the summit.

A less travelled route up Mt Barney, beginning from Upper Portals and following the ridgeline south to Bippoh Peak (Midget) and then up West Peak via its Northern Ridge. Heavily vegetated.

Beginning at Lower Portals, this alpine flavoured adventure follows Barney Creek before going up Barney Gorge all the way to Rum Jungle in the saddle between East and West Peak. This route can be dangerous after heavy rain.

An unlikely but excellent scramble up the rocky northern aspect of the mountain. Follow the spurline all the way from Burbank campsite to arrive at the base of the north face. Ascend scree slope to gain the ridge where some low-angle rhyolite columns make for interesting scrambling.

An easy ridge hike with a few sections of scrambling. This route is loose and vegetated with little to recommend it.

From the second pyramid it is possible to down solo back into the gully. This is considered the 'normal' descent by locals.

A classic ridge traverse.

Park at the Dove Lake carpark (arrive early to avoid shuttle bus). Walk the West side of Dove Lake and take the Lake Wilks Track up to the Face Track. Approximately 200m North (Left) on the Face Track a definite (cairned) pad heads uphill (1.5 hours). Alternatively, walk on the east side of the lake and take the track up to Hanson Peak (a left hand turn just near Glacier Rock). Follow this along the ridge line, summitting Hansons peak and linking into the Face Track, all the way until the cairned path that leads off to the left up to the summit of Little Horn. If you take this approach and come to the sign for the Lake Wilks track you have come too far.

Follow steep path to summit of Little Horn, then begin scramble down towards saddle. 1-2 short (<10m) abseils may be advisable depending on conditions. Walk/Scramble across saddle to base of Weindorfer's Tower and a vegetated ledge.

From here, a narrow pad may be visible on the right (West) side leading to exposed scrambling; consider roping up. The route takes the line of resistance over rocks and vegetation, approximately following the line of the ridge.

After the summit of Weindorfer's Tower there is a 23m abseil from a large boulder; tat may be in place. The start of this abseil can be safely scrambled down in good conditions taking you to a Horn that can be slung for an approx. 10m abseil. The route then continues as before, though generally easier and on the left (East) side of the ridge, with one very exposed rocky traverse on the right (West) side.

The route eases as approaching Smithies Peak, then descends slightly to main summit path which is followed to Cradle Mountain summit. Return via summit walking track.

Gear: 50m rope, abseil tat, 10-12 slings, large nuts/hexes. Helmets recommended, climbing shoes unnecessary.

Time: 9-10 hours car to car.

If the weather turns, there are a couple of points where you can bail out fairly easily. This is after descending Little Horn (there is actually a path leading from the saddle to face track) and after abseiling off Weindorfers tower, this would involve a bit of bushbashing, but doesn't look too steep.

A big day out in rarely climbed terrain on the West Face of the Acropolis. Graded at 19M1 but would go free at 21/22.

The three first ascensionists were benighted and had to spend the night weathering out a storm under a single space blanket and makeshift shelter.

Take your best set of brushes to clean the moss from those lovely cracks, be prepared to kick off the odd bit of choss and unleash the froth as you crank your way up some great climbing.

Approach as for The Plenipotentiary and start at large boulder near the start of The Plenipotentiary. Tat and mallions are required for the descent raps. Pitch lengths are approximate.

• P1: (12) Up vegetated slope, aiming for obvious deep orange crack. (25m)
• P2: (12) Traverse left and up to corner crack on large ledge. (15m)
• P3: (17) Up corner crack to large tooth shape block. (25m)
• P4: (17) Up corners and ramp to top of large chock. (25m)
• P5: (17) Up dirty corner on left to large vegetated ledge. Aim for obvious twin crack system up and left. (15m)
• P6: (19) Up superb twin splitter crack to large vegetated ledge. Can use huge block as anchor. (25m)
• P7: (22) Up thin and technical corner crack to large ledge. Should be at same height of The Plenipotentiary pinnacle. (20m)
• P8: (17) Right and up off width chimney. (10m)
• P9: (10) Exposed traverse into vegetated exit gulley and then protect as you work up the path of least resistance to summit. One slip on the vegetation would send you plummeting several hundred metres to the valley floor. Rope up, take a parachute or be prepared to turn into a red smear if you slip. (50m)

Descent:

• Walk along ridge to the next west facing green gulley.
• Approx 20m rap off chock at top.
• Scramble down until large cliff and locate to large chock on left side of descent gulley. 60m rap.
• Scramble down until end of gulley and locate large wire and torque nut/hex on right side of gulley. 65m rap (doable with rope stretch on two 60m ropes).

From Barron Pass scramble up through scrub to a steep wall with an overhang above it. Continue R of this through a gap and climb short wall on L to gain ridge. Straight up ridge for three rope lengths leads to a knife-edge ridge and summit of White Needle. Alternatively, keeping L of the ridge from Barron Pass, there is a scrub clutching scramble to the top.