Routes in Australia

Please help locate me. So far only indication is "in the Grampians" This is part of an ongoing effort to document the hardest boulders currently defined in the world.

Please help locate me. So far indications suggest Grampians, maybe Buandik area. This is part of an ongoing effort to document the hardest boulders currently defined in the world.

As per the normal Wheel Of Life problem, but with a more difficult and direct finish

The long standing open project linking the entire 'Hollow Mountain Cave' end to end. Start as for X-Treme Cool (V9), and keep climbing into all of 'Sleepy Hollow' (V12), Cave Girl (V8/9), Dead Can't Dance (V11) - finishing up 'Rave Heart'. Route grade of 36/37

Pretty Hate Machine with the Eve Reve finish

Links 'Sleepy Hollow' + Cave Girl + Dead Can't Dance - first ascent spread over a mere 3 days.

'Sugoi' into 'Logical Progression'.

Or start 'Mushi Brain' into 'Abacus' finishing high.

Links Straight out of Compton into the Dead Wrong Project, busting left just before you reach the dream block. Links V12 (Straight out of Compton without moves to Dream block) into V10+ bouldering for a total of around 21 steep burly moves.

Located in the middle of the Hueco Wave wall. Beautiful seam with few holds. Very very hard. Beautiful rock. May need to be climbed on rope. Open project.

Start under the roof with 2 undercuts (RH on pebble), move out to the lip and then traverse left and finish up "Joe, Joe Dynamo".

"THE LINE" at the Cave. Climb Rodeo Clown into Major Lightweight.

Reverse Rodeo Clown direct into Persistence finishing as per this. Epic Power Endurance!! 8c+ Route

Roman Hofmann

Lower right start to J1.

Climb Cave Man into all of Dead Can't Dance.

"9 moves all up. Hard to grade." Mushi Brain finishing up Genesis

Tom Farrell

Reverse Rodeo Clown into Yo Mama (Anger Management exiting Persistence) Some decent power endurance! 8c/+ Route

Roman Hofmann

Same start as for Hired Goons but heads straight up to finish on good block 1 m from top of cave.

Start with There Will Be Blood, but instead of topping out use the edges on problem #39 to come across to The Katana and finish on The Katana. A long endurance test piece that will certainly be a hard link up. Adds in a hard crux of coming down of the starting edge of #39 to the start of The Katana. Could probably shake out stemming between the Katana and Blood boulders... Contrived...

Now, this climb is very hard to even slightly get an idea of how hard it is. All we know is that it is an extremely horizontal finger crack where in some places the crack is too small to fit your fingers in.

Starts at the obvious crack on the right-hand side of the cave (when looking out of the cave) then go up through layaways and pinches before you reach the hard part. Then continue through the horizontal roof using the finger crack ( this section has not been completed and may not be possible, but if it is it's going to be extremely hard). Then finish on the obvious big flake/jug at the end of the finger crack.

Starts as for the Wheel of Life, but halfway through Sleepy Hollow traverses into Stimulation and climbs the whole of Stimulation (with the exception of the first move) till its end, which is also the finish of Silverchair – hence Wheelchair.

Mega hard line up some seriously steep and blank looking territory.

First section (5 bolts) was bolted by Adam Donoghue back in the day. The next section (5 bolts) have since been placed with the possibility of it extending even further. This thing will be hard!

Hang Start on the horrendous pinches, slap up to slopers and traverse right to jug as for Kung Fu Fighting.

Stand Start - Classic

Start on the flake at the back of the roof, 1m behind the large jug. Out to lip. Originally given V14 but downgraded after a quick repeat.

sit-start extension of "Madball"

one of SEWQ's hardest lines, sit start. Detached left boulder is out.

Sit start on big undercling and good pinch at the far back of the middle of the cave. Head straight up and out of the steepest part of the cave on some very slopey holds and good underclings. Finish matched on the dream block.

SDS on good hold, long move up to gain the crimp-plate. Climb the left hand side of the boulder with awesome stretched out compression moves. Stick left for the send. Easier the taller you are. Andy Lampard - https://vimeo.com/135967579

The impossible line directly above the Phone Diddle start. Sit start at the ledge, move to some tiny crimps then up through some imaginary slopers to top out.

Sit start out steep wall to the slab top out.

Sit start and out the steep wall heading left to top out through the ‘skylight’ hole up high on the left.

Sam Healy

Reverse Rodeo Clown to the start of Anger Management, get a decent rest and the finish as per Anger Management. Fun Power Endurance. Could be hard V12?

Roman Hofmann

Sit-Start at the Letterbox Slot on the right hand entrance of the cave just before the end of Rodeo Clown. Reverse Rodeo Clown, into Persistence and finishing as for Anger Management. A fair bit of climbing involved.

Roman Hofmann

Start at the big Hueco at the back right hand side of the cave. Climb diagonally left joining Persistence after about 12+ moves, finishing as per this. Long and pumpy!

Roman Hofmann

30 moves following the obvious line in roof. Up there with the bests of Sydney.

Stand start on the undercling. Move up using the sidepulls and a lack of footholds to reach the victory jug and to top out.

Elijah Mercado

Links 'Mushi Brain' into start of 'Abacus'.

Sugoi is a word that's typically used when you're left awestruck out of excitement or feel overwhelmed. It can also be used to express that something is terrible or dreadful.

Extension to 'Abacus'. Need some spotters and mats for this one, its high and dynamic moves above your spotters heads.

Start 'Abacus' finish 'Genesis'.

Start on the big flake jug and make a very tough move up using the tiny crimp. A heel thrown onto the rail of 'Sushi Train' appears to help.

Elijah Mercado

An awesome testpiece from Saxon. Has seen very few repeats. Very small and painful holds and a tricky tricky exit.

Tom O'Halloran

Connor Lucas

Sit start to Daoism.

Tom Farrell

Starts near fallen block on undercling for right hand and sloper for left, big dynamic move over block to sloper then up through edges in cave and top out as for everest. Repeated 1/5/05 by Sharik Walker

Start about 3m to the right of "Room with a View" matched on jug at back of cave and climb virtually directly out of the roof towards the same finish jug as "Room with a view" to finish as for this problem.

Awesome moves starting as a sds back in the cave traversing through all three layers of granite, out, around and then up to top out.

8 move cliff, no top out.

Links X-Treme Cool into The big flake link

Klem Loskot's piece de resistance - Climb all of Cave Man and keep going into the crux of Dead Can't Dance, and finish up 'Rave Heart'.

Links Cave Bitch into Dead Can't Dance, finishing as for 'Rave Heart'

Link 'Sleepy Hollow' into Cave Girl

Links X-Treme Cool into 'Sleepy Hollow'. First ascent spread over 12 days.

Originally put up as 'Ummagumma' (also at V13) starting in the 3-finger pocket - Klem added the first (hard) move a week later. Previously V14 until Nicole repeated it in a single day.

The very dangerous problem just right of 'Butthole Surfer' and climbing out to the obvious pockets on the overhanging face above and bad landing (the drop off the terrace).

Guess this needs a new name. Low start on the first of the monos and the obvious incut edge, with a pretty crucial toehook. Climb straight through the roof for a few moves before finishing up The V7. One of QLD's new hardest boulders.

Sit start with left hand on the half pad crimp rail and right on the nothing pinch, shoot up to the variety of crimps and the puzzle get's real! Potentially much harder than the estimated grade

Grade's a guess. Send it and tell us.

Sit start as for Anger Management, following the right side of holds leading to a big move to a crimpy blob/shield like feature and then a good jug rest. Connect back into "Anger Management" following its sloppy crack line, turning about a meter before the crack opening. Then head directly out towards the front of the cave via a large jug and some sharp underlings. Top out as for "Anger Management".

Byron Glover

Roman Hofmann

Crazy roof right on the waters edge of the ocean. Sit start from two good crimps at the back of the cave, followed by 8 hard moves in a roof to a cool headwall and top out to the right.

First boulder of the grade sent by an Australian woman - Amy Fenton in 2017. Amy suggested a downgrade, saying "The consensus probably sits at a slash grade (V12/13) but I am definitely no authority. Before Deep Blue Sea my hardest tick was V10 so the idea of skipping two grades and going straight to V13 didn’t sit right with me."

Aurel Gelot | Travis Bettison | Mattias Braach-Maksvytis | Amy Fenton

Sit start LH undercling in the middle of the hueco and RH sidepull. Do a few hard moves up and left to gain the ledge and topout. Bloody Classic. Cheers JH for the vision.

Possibly lives up to the name. It would appear that holds have broken since Brad S and Nick W first documented this boulder. A powerful, aggressive crimp boulder that needs a repeat to reconfirm the grade. Would appear at least V11.

Sit Start on good two finger side pull and crimp. Hard first moves left into small crimps, then finish as for ‘Kiss My Witness’.

Brad S and Nick W (Pictures on StrandedClimbers.Blogspot.com.au)

This was previously ‘Kiss My Witness’. It would appear that holds have broken and this boulder is now an open project.

Start with both hands on low incut rail. Follow obvious break straight up and finish as for ‘Silent Witness'

Do esoteric panties/evil agenda to the crux of esoteric agenda and then break left for a very hard 3 extra bolts of climbing until you reach sideways rains anchor.

The future.

"Dangle pigs". Australia's 2nd 35. Formerly a Lee Cossey project, generously gifted to Alex to keep him occupied. Starts just shy of the wall splitting arete 15m right of Ristretto. Tends rightward to breach the main roof close to its right hand end, and up wall above.

Start 8m right of Beta Vinyl, 3m L of Tiger Snatch. Heads straight up, passing through the left end of the low horizontal break of Velvet project / Tiger Snatch. Then heads straight up to Sitting Bull's final break. Finish as for Sue's Last Ride.

Rumour is it's pretty hard. Direct start to Mono No Aware. The first 35 to be sent by an Australian (albeit noting the question of how to grade Wheel of Life). Tom

Australia's first 35. An open project for over a decade. Alex took about 20 shots to send it, not long after he'd onsighted 9a at Siurana.

Ascents

• Alex Megos - 18 August 2013
• Wiz Fineron - 14 May 2019

Start slightly left of Knifey Spooney. The fainted crack feature on that compact wall. This line link into the crux of Spoonman. Probably the hardest climb in Queensland at the moment.

No sure if it goes. Start The Seam and stay in the it all the way. Two more bolts allow to link directly to the upper wall of Spoonman.

Start on the double gastons a couple of tricky moves and a desperate swing will get you established onto The Never Ending Story, finish as for this.

30m? right of the bottom dam is a bulgy arete feature just to the left of a little chimney crack. Sit start left of the crack, head left and around the arete, then up to slopers.

Stand Start - Start about 3m right of Darkside on the obvious jug at head height, pull out into roof then move left and finish as for Darkside.

Start as for Trident, and instead of throwing to the large slope slap to the crimp 1 foot left instead. Finish out left on lip

Linkup of Stalker into Tao, crossing into Cocktoe through the Stalker side- pull and seeping pinch hold. ‘Slightly harder than Tao’ according to the first ascentionist. FA: Sharik Walker. If you climb this then do the entire finish of Cocktoe it’s V9/10.

Start as for Cocktoe, then break left out near the lip via a crimp and a large sidepull slap.

Stand start on two small holds, and throw up and left to positive side-pull. How it ends was anybody's guess ... until visiting Canadian Simon Parton showed everyone how it's done in 2016 in the inaugural Passchendaele V1 Bouldering Festival.

Sit start on small edge at back of cave. Head up and right to dream block before climbing a few more easier moves to finish below lip of cave.

The insane, thin, finger crack that splits the whole cave in half, straight down the middle. Sit start the start of the crack at the very back of the cave and figure out the insanity. Very possible

Climb the obvious fridge feature. deep from in the cave. Slap side to side and try and work out the wacky puzzle at the lip. Don't get swallowed up by the giant monster!!

One of the hardest problem's in Queensland. This is the amazing line in the middle of the wall.

[eliminate] The stunning line at the entrance of the cave. Start at middle of Orient Express and blast straight out of cave through blank section. eliminates the big sidepull on the right side.

Hard line right of wrestle mania starting very low and eventually blasting through the roof. Its all there!