|Victoria North West Arapiles Colosseum Wall Area Comic Strip Wall|
|28||★ Slime Time
Originally 26 in the best of Law sandbagging tradition. Quite good, and not particularly slimy. Reachy though, looks way harder below about 6' reach.
Start R of 'Failing New Romantic'. 2 bolts up the seam, step L, then finish past a couple of fixed wires.
FA: Mike Law & Paul Hoskins, 1982
|Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area Light Fingered Gully|
|Victoria North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Cobwebs Gully|
Follow the overhung seam up the middle of the wall with a piton, from the diagonal follow up final crack then finish as for 'Astral Plane'.
Start: On middle of right hand wall looking in.
FA: Mark Moorhead, 1981
|Victoria North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Kryptonite Krack Area|
Previously a long standing open project that was speculated for years prior to its first ascent. Literally a 5m (hard) boulder problem.
Start: Start between KK and AF.
FA: Stuart Wyithe & Dave Jones, 1995
|Victoria North West Arapiles Atridae Agamemnon Area|
|28||Height of Fashion
Up the thin crack to PR, with difficulty to good flake, then another hard move up L. Move R to easier climbing.
Start: Start just R of M.
FA: Kim Carrigan, 1982
|Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Steel Delinquency Pinnacle|
|28||★ Down To Zero
Short flake, fixed wire, to BR. Up wall then L to flake.
Start: Start on ledge 5m around R of MS.
FA: Mark Moorhead & Jon Muir, 1981
|Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes D Minor Pinnacle|
Start just R of the original arete start for 'Aardvark'.
The black groove to the ledge, then the short steep thin crack above
FA: Ian Speedie & John McLean (aid), 1966
FA: freed to the break at 19M3 by Alec Campbell, 1966
FFA: Dave Jones & Rich Heap, 1996
|Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully The Torture Chamber|
|V7||★★ 4) Out thin seam
|Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Krondorf Area Boulders Pinch Arete and Pebble Wall|
|V7||★★ Trackside Reverse
Crux pull on of ‘10’ then press left to climb left arete. Cool.
Sit start at low flake, press left to side pull and dyno to top. Right arete is out.
|Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Krondorf Area Boulders Oops boulder|
On the trackside of the boulder. Gain vague scooped arete from the left
|Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Krondorf Area Boulders Krondorff Boulder|
Sit start. R hand on sloper and L hand on Gaston. Through R side of roof
Sit Start. Start under R of roof then out and up seam and slab
|Victoria North West Arapiles Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major West Face|
|28||★★ On the Prowl
The steep arête right of Missing Link following three bolts up and right into the finish of The Prow. Start 3m left of Station to Station.
FA: Gordon Poultney
|28||★★★ Final Departure Direct Finish
Straightens out the top section of the original, making it much better.
FA: Zac Vertrees
Start just R of 'Unrequited'. A more fingery version of Slopin' Sleazin' perhaps?
FA: Ingvar Lidman
|Victoria North West Arapiles Castle Crag|
Up Undertaker to about 6m, then left and up past bolts. Dave has bolted and been working on an independent start.
FA: Dave Jones, May 2013
|Victoria North West Arapiles Voodoo Area Voodoo Buttress|
‘The archetypical wall of impossible-looking rounds’ – Louise Shepherd guide. Very sustained. Up arête 1m right of PV to prominent undercling, then reach to sloper. Crux moving past this to a small horizontal slot (bombproof double RPs), then onwards up slope-riddled slab. Traverse right to First Blood anchor.
FA: Kim Carrigan, 1986
|Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Uncle Charlie|
Really fun arete slapping. Please do not climb this route during nesting season (August to December). Start beneath the hanging nose.
FA: Uwe Eder & Axl Krapf, 1995
An amazing line through some steep bulges. It will work your shoulders and test your footwork as you try to unlock its hidden secrets. Fixed wires protect the crux, great condition as of 07/2020.
Start: Start on the R side of the awe inspiring blank bulging orange face. Up crack before stepping left into the difficulties. Finishes out right up easier ground
FA: Kim Carrigan & Kevin Lindorff, 1982
|28||★★ The Great Escape
Climb directly into 'Escape' without bridging.
FA: Mike Weeks, 1998
|Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Back Wall|
|28||★★★ Slopin' Sleazin'
Pure face climbing funkness. Originally graded 25 and worked on via some very dubious gear. Climbs the crazy groove 10m R of Lamplighter past 4 ringbolts to a DRB anchor. Super technical and sustained, with a variety of options available for undertaking the crux, none of them particularly a giveaway! Unconventional and classic moves make this one of the best routes at Arapiles.
FA: Mike Law, 1983
|28||★ Give Me Convenience or Give Me Death
Climb 'Shivers' until the 'Judgement Day' traverse line, then head straight up through the roof (bolt) and follow the seam, joining Shivers' 2nd pitch near the top.
Start: Start as for 'Shivers'.
FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2005
|Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Spellbinder Area|
Start as for "Spellbinder".
Go up Spellbinder for 8 metres to ledge. Move right, up short, left-facing corner and over bulge to bolt (#4RP placement en-route). Move right again then up to easier climbing. rap as for Spellbinder
FA: Kim Carrigan, 1986
|Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds Yesterday Gully Upper Gully|
|28||★★ Smear Campaign
Start as for Lunatic, continue up the arete and then tend R. Has it's own chains.
FA: Gordon Poultney, 2010
|28||★★ Yesterday Direct
Excellent sustained face that leads directly to the crux of 'Yesterday'.
Start just right of Yesterday and climb past bolts to join that route. (The original direct started at the boulder 10 metres right of Yesterday and traversed 3 metres left. Grade 27)
FA: Kim Carrigan via a start further to the right at 27. Ingvar Lidman added the even more direct start as described in 2001., 1984
|28||★ Use No Chooks
Stick-clip bolt, climb tricky start and continue past more fixed gear.
Start: Start about 12 metres right of "Yesterday"
FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984
|Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Boulders Finalgon Boulder|
Left to right traverse. Optional sit start adds value but doesn't change grade.
|Victoria North West Arapiles The Watchtower Faces Kitten Wall Area Tjuringa Wall|
|28||★★ Lats Have Feelings Too
It's hard to say which is less repeated - 'Tjuringa', 'Akakage', or this. Once you see the line, you'll know why. A massive traversing affair that starts as for 'Common Knowledge' 2nd pitch, but then keeps heading left (under Akakage) to a (hard) crux lip encounter (very old bolt) and an outrageous headwall finish.
Start: Start at the first belay of 'Common Knowledge'.
FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984
One of the most significant additions to this wall in 25 years. Originally equipped back in the dark ages. Very hard wall climbing protected by a mix of trad, then bolts - but still very exciting. Starts as for 'High Mum' then when level with the large flakeline (below the notch), drop down to the left and gain 'Tjuringa Wall' proper via a heinious crux sequence past a bolt. Trend up and leftwards to the undercut horizontal and finish as for 'My Soul to Keep'.
FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2000
|Victoria North West Arapiles Northern Group Henry Bolte Wall|
|28||★★★ Slinkin' Leopard
Surely one of the best route names in the country.
Start 3m R of 'The Fortress'. A slopey traverse R is protected by a bolt (stick clip). Up past two more bolts before heading L to the crack. Up more easily with trad gear and one more bolt to anchors.
FA: Geoff Weigand, 1984
|28||Straight Outta Compton
AKA Straight Outta Wackford.
As for Wackford Squeers Direct, then arbitrarily follow the difficult C-shaped sickle to the L in the upper section (rather than the obvious line of least resistance).
FA: Geoff Weigand. Carrigan had climbed the lower section on, 1985
|Victoria North West Arapiles Northern Group Mysteries Wall|
Climb the bulging arete to the right of Pooh Sticks - beware the tweak factor!
FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2008
|Victoria North West Arapiles Northern Group High Dive Gully|
|28||★★★ Lats in the Belfry
Originally graded 30, it has settled as a solid grade 28 and offers the longest piece of continuous steep climbing at Arapiles.
Start as for High Dive (although the FA started by traversing in from Belly Flop).
At the major horizontal break prior to its crux head left and launch up past cam slots to a piton, don't trust this (back it up !), but continue anyway through to "Power, Corruption and Lies" and another, even more horrible piton. Ignore this and instead, clip the 2 bolts and continue straight up to finish as for Cellular Destruction.
(Don't escape off R to the arete after the letterbox slot lest you be ridiculed by the climbing community)
FA: paul smith
|Victoria North West Arapiles Far North Lower Curtain Wall|
One very, very hard move.. hence the name.
FA: Paul Hoskins, 1999
|Victoria North West Arapiles Far North Werewolf Area|
|28||★ The Vampire
A good find by Muki Woods finishing up the funky wall to the right of 'Werewolf'.
Start: Start as for 'Tribulation'.
FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2009
|Victoria North West Arapiles Far North Far North Bouldering Caving Boulder|
|V7||★★ Sit start
|Victoria North West Arapiles Western Side Cyclop's Eye Area|
|28||The Bolshevik Connection
Desperate start past bolt with insitu krab. After 2nd FH move left past another to finish as for Is Your Washroom Breeding Bolsheviks? The bolts are looking a bit cruddy.
FA: Nathan Hoette, 2003
|28||Is Your Kitchen Cooking Communists
Same desperate start as for The 'Bolshevik' connection but at second FH go straight up past a third FH to thin crack.
FA: Nathan Hoette, 2003
|Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Campground Closed Campground Boulders|
|V7|| ★★ Inspector Gadget
Long deadpoint to slopey crimp from slopey pockets.
FA: Matt Adams, 2000
|V7|| ★★ Inspector Gadget Left
Starts with the same moves as Inspector Gadget then head out left to crimp rail & finish up at Ultra Deluxe
|V7|| ★ Butt Gravity
Sit start low under the roof matching a slot, then out to a pocket, crimp, then BIG move up and left to a good 4-finger pocket. Join 'Silly Putty' at the top. Sharp.
FA: Julian Saunders, 2000
|V7|| ★★★ happy camper
As per Grampians bouldering guide.
|V7|| ★ Button Mushrooms
Start as for 'Butt Gravity' but head directly out to traverseline of Race Eater. Traverse right all the way to the start of 'NSAM' and finish up this.
|V7|| ★ No Sex After Mushrooms LHV
Start as for the original problem then head left and up through the sloper and edge. Rarely done.
|V7|| ★★★ Hip Flexor
The RH line. Starts on a hold below the sloper traverse line then gains this and heads right via some small crimps, slopers to eventually finish up the V1.
|V7|| ★★ Plus
Another variation within the Butthole Cave. Starts as for 'Minus', then bisects the 'Worm Saloon' traverseline via a big move out to the lip.
|Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Campground Titanic Boulder|
|Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Flat Rock Epsilon Wall Bouldering|
|V7||★★ The Show Must Go On
start in back of cave, come thru underclings, gain the lip climb left and top out on final jug.
Start: Takes a right-trending line across the wall starting just right of 100 Pound Club's start holds.
|V7||★★ Pussy Power
This line starts from a low sit start (left of the route 'Let X=X') using an undercling, then traverses left across small crimps to better holds in the break on the final face. Finish at the high pocket. Very reminiscent of 'Seam Grip' at Andersens.
FA: Sophie King
|Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Ground Control Caves Middle Cave|
|V7||★★ Captain Tonnelli
Upgraded from V5 to 7 in 2016 Bouldering Guide. Which seems fair!
|Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Ground Control Caves Lower Cave|
FA: Toni Lamprecht, 1999
|V7||God of Thunder
FA: Toni Lamprecht, 1999
|Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Trackside Boulders Amazing Boulder|
|V7||★★ Cardigan St Massacre
|Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Trackside Boulders Love Boulder|
Start as for "To Hate To Love" to the ledge before the roof. Mantle the ledge up to a high LH two finger pocket and continue delicately up the headwall to better holds.
|V7||★★ Ministry of Love
|Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Trackside Boulders Jungle Boulder|
|V7||★★ Lisa Machete
Small LH seam and good RH edge. Pounce to a pocket then top out up the groove. FA Alistair Robertson.
|Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Trackside Boulders Understanding Boulder|
|Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Trackside Boulders Darjeeling Express Boulders|
|V7||★ Beverly Hills Cop
Sit start on a good crimp and move up
FA: Ricardo Toto Monetta
|Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Taipan Wall|
|28 R||★★★ Daedelus
This alternative second pitch to Seventh Banana is rather runout at times, but it's also an incredible sustained line. May not yet have seen a ground up ascent. Start at the first anchor of Seventh Banana. Up Seventh Banana pitch 2 for a few moves then move L (crux past the first bolt), and blast up the somewhat sparsely bolted grey streak to the top. Between the last 2 RBs it rejoins Seventh Banana for a few metres, then heads left again. 6 RB's & DRB anchor. There's some optional cam placements but they don't reduce the runouts much. Rebolted 2017.
FA: Julian Saunders (26M1) & Dave Jones (28), 1997
As for Sirocco pitch 2 past the first bolt (doing it's crux), then move L and up for 25m of new climbing between Seventh Banana and Sirocco to the top. You can also approach from Seventh Banana, by stepping R after doing the crux on p2.
FFA: Graeme Dick, Jun 2013
|28||★★★ Cardigan Street Pitch 2
|28||★★★ The Seventh Pillar (Free Variant)
This short variant halfway up the second pitch was the final link for the whole line to go free. Break L from the top of the initial fat flake/corner on pitch 2 of TSP, 2 bolts and hard moves take you over the bulge and up the thin face to gain the guano-stained flake on the original.
FA: Dave Jones & mid 90s?, 2000
|28||★ Seventh Pillar Direct Finish
A superbly positioned bouldery little pitch. Makes a logical 3rd pitch for The Great Affair now that that has been freed. Start at the second belay of The Seventh Pillar. Blast up the surprisingly overhung headwall, trending a little R, past 2RBs and a medium cam. Lower off anchor. Rebolted 2018.
FFA: Dave Jones (2000ish?)
Almost completely superseded by Sneaky Snake, especially until the start bulge gets freed. But still worth recording, for those who can't climb 33! Start 8m R of Naja. Stick clip and batman 5m to first bolt to bypass the blank bulge, then follow the awe-inspiring water grooves in the incredible steep sheer wall. Finish at the half-height DRB. 70m rope recommended. The low bulge has reportedly almost been freed, but will be MUCH harder - open project. In April 2013 Quentin Chastagnier tried a variant start about 5m to the left, on trad, which included a sideways downwards jump from a break to a hold on the lip!
Set by Lee Cossey
FA: Lawry Dermody, 2006
Takes one of Taipan's best scoop lines and is ultra classic in it's own right. Start 10m up L from the base of Invisible Fist. This scramble/traverse is 10m off the ground and trickier than it looks.
FA: Rich Heap, 1997
Suffocatingly powerful. Usually led as one giant pitch. Start at large expanding left-facing flake 8m right of World Party.
FA: Malcolm Matheson & Simon Mentz, 1993
|60m, 2, 8|
The popular first pitch is a beautiful scoop of rock with a tenuous traverse and remarkably sustained climbing for the length of the scoop. The business is a little short to rank up there with Taipan's very best, but it's still awesome. Pitch 2 is rarely done but is an absolute blast. Start at the DRB atop Kaa p1, accessed as described above. (There is an old direct start with a couple of bolts (described on the Spurt Wall page), but nobody bothers with it).
FA: Steve Monks early, 1995
|60m, 2, 4|
|Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Spurt Wall|
|28||★★ Naughty Tickle Town
The trad placement has now been retroed - silly poms can keep using the #2.5 Fr if they wish. Another new bolt has thankfully straightened the half height deviation to the right, eliminating the ridiculous tough cross-through clip of the 'Academia' bolt.
Start: Start from near the R-hand end of the bouldering traverse, about 5m R of Kaa.
FA: Richard Heap, 1996
|28||★★ Spurt Girl
Very hard single crux move. 'Campus' slopy rails. One of the best 'lines' at Spurt. Four FH's. Nick Sellars tried to rename this route after some obscure Baghdad Cafe cake. The name didn't stick.
FA: Nic Sellars (UK), 1998
|Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre The Snake Pit|
|V7||★★★ Waiting in the Air
An 8-move traverse into a big dyno.
FA: Klem Loskot, 2000
|Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Citadel|
Vague sit-start in the middle of the wall - then up the central line via a small sloping feature and shallow pocket. As fingery as it gets.
in a small 'toilet' cave directly behind ammagamma 20m, stand start matched in left pocket, big move right to pocket then directly up to slot, top out through gap in roof. very good could have been done eons ago but couldn't find any history on it.
FA: cairo hazell, 2 Aug 2013
|Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Cave Club|
|V7||★★ Full Cream
A direct start to 'Skim Milk' - finishing as for that problem.
|V7||★★ Whipped Cream
Start as for Full Cream and make a big throw right to blocky holds trending up to finish at the highest hold on the face. Good and dynamic.
|Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Summerday Valley Wall of Fools|
|28||★★ Zero Blunder
A very tough face.
Start: Start about 15m L of 'Milupa', 10m R of 'Innocent Fool'.`
FA: Jared McCulloch, 1990
The well publicised left side of the arch is probably the toughest route in Summerday.
Start: Start beneath the L side of the arch.
FA: Martin Scheel Feb/Mar, 1989
|Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Echidna Wall (bouldering)|
|V7||★★ Crouching Leopard Hidden Pansy
Start up Crouching Leopard Hidden Orchid to the crux then head left to the pocket of the V3-4. You only get the V7 if you traverse into the V3-4 above the side jug and don't use it.
FFA: Adam Demmert, 15 Oct 2016
|V7||★★ Live long and Prosper
Start as for Vulcan Grip and head left and up increasing in difficulty to a final mono before popping to the welcome jug
FFA: adam demmert, 24 Sep 2016
|Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Amnesty Gun Buttress|
|Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Amnesty Upper Gun Buttress|
|V7||★★ Silent Observer
Sit start on the right arete on the juggy feature. Make your way up the arete to top out.
Overhung arête right of Minute Man.
|Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Left Main Gas Boulder|
|Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Left Main Rocks on Blocks Boulder|
|V7||★★★ Mr Knox
Sit start buried in the back of the cave on a good undercling feature.Climb out left through the roof to tricky moves gaining the lip and up the arete and dihedral feature. Glorious line!
|V7||★★★ Mr Fox
Start as for Mr Knox but make hard moves out right of the roof to a slopey rail and follow the obvious line up to the top.
|Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Left Main Tim Tam Boulder|
|V7||★★★ Tim Tam Traverse
Starts on the large jug on the lefthand corner of the block (facing) and traverses right along the sloping lip to a final mantle for the finger pocket up on the slab.
FA: Richard (Sticky) Dale, 2000
|Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Left Main Font Boulder|
|V7||★ Medicare aka Injure the Back
Sit start on the left side of the slot (of Green Destiny). Climb straight up the face on crimps to a slopey top out over a potentially back-breaking landing.
|Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Left Main Shotgun Boulder|
|V7||★★ Sugar Sticks
|Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Left Main Gobsmacker Corner|
|V7||★★ Assuming the Mantle
On boulder opposite Faux Magnum. Sit start on the low sloping rail and do a subtle (hard) mantle onto the slab.
FA: Corinne Gwyther
|Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Right Main The Russian Bull Boulder|
|V7||★★ Russian Bull
Start: Start same as "Peaches and Damsons" up to jug-ish hold and tend right connecting tiny holds over the ledge.
For those of you with steely fingers.
FA: Team Austria
|Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Right Main Andersens Consulting Boulder|
|V7||★★ Dirtbag Payday
|V7||★ Mungo's Arete
|Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Right Main Mandatory Choices Boulder|
|V7||★★★ Mandatory Choices
|V7||★★★ Lightening Arete
Definitely gets fear grades, hardest part is the bottom couple of metres. Top is committing, but pretty positive. A decent pad on the upper rock, plus a spotter, makes the move that much easier.
FA: Chris Jones, 2000
|Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Right Main The Pinnacle|
|V7||★★ Things Only Get Better
|Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Right Main Giddy Up Boulder|
|V7||Get On Down