Routes in Australia for selected grade

Climb the juggy face right of arete from a sit.

Good warm up. Sit start on low jugs down and right of the start of TBC. Climb up and right.

Sit start as per the V1, then head up and left to top out.

The easy arete is climbed from a sit.

Sit start. Left hand and right hand on lower flake (somewhat hugging the boulder). Bump up left hand, heel hook right leg. Bump up right hand, heel hook left leg, then make your way up the boulder.

Not bad.

Start: 60m R of TR is a flake crack with an overhanging start.

1. 37m (20) Easily up to roof [possible to scramble up and belay here]. Through roof [crux] and up crack to shallow scoop. R and up chimney.

2. 25m (13) Up wide line as for Trog.

Start: 70m R of KA below a L leading diagonal above large boulders. [I was on the first ascent and I couldn't find it again when I looked recently! PA)

1. 15m (12) Up to diagonal roof.

2. 15m (20) Up diagonally L to past ledge to scoop. Abseil descent from here. I think we originally thought it might go all the way to the top.

Start as for The BFG on the large Flake, but climb up and over the obvious set of witch tits. If you fall you will need some sorcery to fix your broken legs.

On the South Facing vertical wall, at the Eastern end. Start on side pull jug, climb rails up and right to an awkward topout, followed by a long easy scramble to the summit of Juju Rock.

On the North facing wall, at the uphill side. Sit start below small rooflet, make some crap movements up and over it to gain a ledge 2m off the ground.

Sit start low with a big undercling pinch on the north western end of the boulder. Move up and over the top from here.

Sit start in the middle of the northern face of Bunny Rock. Move technically up and right on gastons and slopers to topout.

Start above the pool 6m L of ES. Up centre of slab past 3 bolts. Would be more popular and come down a grade or two if a couple more bolts were added.

Starts as for Deshperado. Move L from the bollard and up the wall.

Good climbing on nice rock. Seam starting from boulder 8m R of KK. From ledge finish easily up wall above.

Explosive moves on pockets on supurb rock. Start up BiP, R up line, step R onto wall and up.

50m R of Jonah, a narrow buttress immediately R of a body chimney. Up middle of face then finish up L arete. Sustained and fiddley to protect. A bit artificial avoiding the ledge off R at half height.

Steep flake crack 2m R of FD leads up and slightly R to a ledge. Climb steep crack in arête and face above.

First RB of Tatrazine then left side of the black groove finishing at the shared anchors up to the left. 5 RBs

1 RB at the (desperate) start then black chimney/groove to anchors on Sprung.

Pity about the finishing pitches.

Start: Start at the corner on the righthand side of Beerpot wall.

1. 15m (-) Corner and wall to roof. Left to pea-pod.

2. 18m (20) Up pod then traverse right to stance under stunning flake.

3. 17m (20) 'Flake'. Belay on right.

4. 20m (-) Out right then pull over small roof. Up corner to another roof, left to arete.

5. 20m (-) Up and right.

6. 40m (-) Walk left to blocks, pull over steepening and finish up gully.

Arete L of Midday Sun (a bit better than it looks), finishing direct up through overhang / groove. Not as much pro at the crux as you'd like.

Start just to the left of Burnt By The Shade. Climb to the right side of major scoop and step left into line above. Follow cracking line and holds until they run out and step left under rap chains to finish.

The only sport route at the crag, and perhaps the best route here too?

A slabby start leads to a corner feature, after which the angle steepens. After the last bolt, avoid stepping right to the anchors, and finish straight up the classy little headwall.

L leaning seam starting 3m R of The Stand.

Starts a few metres right of The Rutting Season. Climb the line and overhang to finish.

Fingers to off-width test-piece but needs cleaning. At upper left end of cliff are two pinnacles high on the cliff and 70 metres apart. Start in recessed alcove below left pinnacle. Climb distinctive, grey, right-facing flake-crack (ancient fixed nut at 10 metres, below teh overhang). Above overhang, belay on ledge on left. Abseil from tree.

Start 20m right of 'Route 666' in a corner below a little roof 4m above the ground.

1. 20m Up around the roof, then up and right to the corner. Up corner to a roof, left past a bolt runner to a stance at the base of the corner. Move left to the ledge just around the arete.

2. 30m Up the arete for a few metres to a small roof (beware of loose block). Step around right into the original line and grovel up to a tree. The crack-line on the right wall is initially quite good but the exit up right to large ledge is awkward and dirty.

3. 40m Move back left into the main line and its continuation to the top.

Looks Great

Start: Starts up brushed groove in blunt arete 50m right of Satan\'s Exit, above right side of huge fallen blocks and just left of the yellow undercut wall.

1. 50m (20) Up groove (BR @ 12m) to overlap. Go 2m right and up into next groove. Hand traverse 4m right to foot of crack. Up this to ledge.

2. 50m (20) Step left then up dramatic crack which gets harder to ledge. Step right into chimney corner.

Some dubious rock.

Start: 2m right of 'Bitch City'

1. 25m (crux) Undercut line. Finish by under clinging flake to ledge on left.

2. 22m Wall to right curving flake. Up to stance below roof.

3. 25m Thin corner, pass roof on the right and up fist/hand crack.

Once well-known as one of the earlier grade 20s in Victoria but has sunk back into deserved obscurity. Still one of the cleaner climbs here though.

A clean technical start leads to varied and sometimes loose and/or dirty ground in the second half. Start 12 metres left of 'Manxome Foe' at a prominent left-facing corner.

1. 35m (21) Sustained up corner then step right and up easy ground to ledge.

2. 25m (17) Go 4 metres right on ledge and go up attractive hand-crack in excellent rock.

3. 25m (18) Corner above until it ends abruptly at overlap. Hard move up left to ledge. Left up this to prominent, twin cracks in right-facing corner. Up these (loose rock) to exit up left to loose ledge/ramp.

4. 35m (15) Straight up loose ground from top of ledge/ramp for 4 metres. Go 2 metres left to gully, up this then veer up left.

A superb right-facing black and yellow corner, a landmark at the right-hand end of the cliff. Scramble up to starting ledge. Escape off right at the top.

The shallow L-facing corner immediately right of Corum's Corner. Scramble off to the right.

a little left of the base of Queen of Hearts are a few distinct natural crack or crack and corner lines. Curioser and Curioser takes recessed twin/opposing corners. When one thins out to virtually disappear it is possible to do a groin-busting bridge to help move across to the other crack then up more easily.

Beautiful clean corner. The climb had been done earlier by others with a couple of aids. Start on terrace 5 metres left of 'Brillig'

1. 15m () Easy, wide crack in right-facing corner to overhang. Step left, up to ledge and go left to below the clean corner.

2. 20m (21) Corner with hard moves at top. Exit right to bushy ledge (this is left end of first belay of 'Brillig' and 'Epicurean'

3. 20m (14) Step left and pull over overhang above pitch two. Either traverse 3 metres left and go up (as led) or go up and left in attractive diagonal seam (20; as followed) to left arete of buttress. Follow wide line up and slightly right, finishing up cleft to ledge below lookout.

From a stand climb the shield just right of the left arete.

The groove using eponymous pimply pinches.

All the way up the terrifyingly high left arete of the buttress

Stand start as for "Hymen Gorillas". Traverse left and head up.

some small gear useful for the crux.

1. 16m. Move up and traverse R to a crack leading into the corner proper. Climb the crack and continue up the corner to gain a sloping ledge and a belay in a 'slot'

2. 34m. crux. Move back R and climb the overhanging corner to a small ledge. Climb up to a small overhang. Exit L and continue up the line.

1. 16m. As for SC (freed).

2. 30m. Climb the slot above the belay to a stance on the left. Traverse back R to the original line and follow it.

Obvious twin crack lines up centre of boulder. Stand start, move up to crimp then head slightly left and up. Top out is mossy and very committing, not advised when wet.

Traverse climb beginning at leftmost arete. Using rails and flakes along the low section of the face finishing with a match in the large pocket.

Obvious arete line of bulgy sidepulls, trending slightly left. Stand start and follow the crack/arete to high top out. Descent is committing and may require pads/spotters.

Left arete of the boulder. Sit start with right undercling and left pinch, head up. Watch your back on the block behind.

Sit start with a side pull and an edge. Straight up to a jug.

A very good climb

1. 16m Start up the left-leading diagonal crack 3m right of Sisters of the Sun, and immediately left of the small pillar. Climb above the bulge, go slightly left up the slab to the corner. Step left and up the rib to a ledge below a finger-crack.

2. 10 (crux) Climb the crack.

Fierce and sustained wall climbing with mediocre protection.

1. 20m Head up Cash Cow to belay.

2. 20m (crux) Start 1.5m right of the corner. Head up and slightly right, then up and a little left.

Good. Start on the bushy terrace behind the top of Fool's Gold and The Desperate and Divided Years up the left of the two shallow, left-facing corners. Climb up to a crack in the bulge, then the twin cracks through the next bulge. Finish up The Desperate and Divided Years.

The name is apt, it describes the conditions of the first ascent. The climbing is fair. About 7m left of the right end of the cliff a ramp leads up left to a small eucalypt (landmark) at 6m. From the tree, climb the wall for 2m, then traverse 2m left and climb the major crack.

Sustained route on (mostly) great rock that weaves its way up the arete at the left end of the cliff; sure to get you pumped. Typically started just left of the arete, but can also be started just right of the arete. Snakes to the right of the arete at about half height, then finishes up the corner.

Towards the top of the descent gully at the left end of the cliff is an easy corner. A tricky layback with just sufficient protection. Climb the slabby wall then the seam just left of this. (Take a 5RP for use at half height).

Exciting climbing in an excellent position up the L arête of the pillar. Climb seam 1m R of CW and go up R to arête. Straight up this, R of CW all the way.

10m right of Il Nome Dela Rosa. A faint right facing seam starts about 1 metre above a large flat block leaning toward the cliff. Step onto the small ledge and delicately up to the overlap. Over this on the right and up right to lower offs.

Starts 2m right of FD/MD. Up wall from top of fallen block, staying left of the moss. Move right to gain seam at about 5m, moving right of this and then tending right to stay alongside left of the moss. Follow small edges to anchors of MD.