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Access issues inherited from Sisters Beach

National Park so standard permits apply.

Approach

Walk down to the coast just before reaching Fly Buttress.

Routes

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Grade Route

This large boulder is visible from the approach track right by the sea before you reach the little scree slope. Partially submerged at high tide.

Start on the crimps above the small boulder that Tidal sits on. Move straight up through the jugs finishing left at the highest point of the boulder.

FA: Moses Bassett

Start hanging on the jugs and follow them right and then top out above.

FA: Moses Bassett

Start on the small holds on the lowest point of the boulder and follow the best line out.

FA: Moses Bassett

This climb is on the NE side of the bolder. Start on two crimps and small feet, big move to a poor side pull/gaston and then easy finish

FA: Moses Bassett

Steep gully with climbs on either side

Little cave of high quality rock at the mouth of the gully

Start sitting under the middle of the face, right hand on and under cling and left on a crimp in the start of the crack. Straight up with some hard crimping. Stand start is also good and goes about V4. There is also plenty of fun easier stuff all around this area.

FA: Moses, 30 May

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